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NOTES, 

DURING A VISIT TO 

EGYPT, NUBIA, THE OASIS BCERIS, 
MOUNT SINAI, 

AND 

SIR FREDERICK HENNIKER, BART. 

o 

SECOND EDITION. 


JE11USAEE 




LONDON: 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STR&Ef? 


1824. 















































































































































• 






* 


































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' ' 








PREFACE. 


“ O that mine adversary had written a 
book/' is an exclamation which betrays no 
little degree of malice, and no slight know¬ 
ledge of Reviewers. Yet those who call them¬ 
selves my Friends have persuaded me to 
make a book ;—but I have made it as short 
as possible: and to this, various accidents 
have contributed. Part of the following was 
written to a friend, to whom, verbum sat:— 
the amusements of drawing and shooting 
prevented me the trouble of making long 
notes:—what I did write has but lately ar¬ 
rived in England: and part of my papers 
have been lost.—With respect to the scene 
of my travels, I did not advance beyond the 
neighbourhood of the second cataracts, and 
b 





VI 


PREFACE. 


made but a short visit to the Oasis, Mount 
Sinai, and Jerusalem. As to the subject, my 
delight was rather in nature than in works of 
art: of the latter, indeed, I have not omitted 
the name of any object, and have particularly 
mentioned such features as sufficiently inter¬ 
ested me while on the spot to take drawings 
of. In speaking of the people, I am , perhaps, 
in some few instances, deceived, either by 
vulgar errors, or by wantonness: but in ge¬ 
neral I have related only such anecdotes as 
appeared to me to be characteristic, and 
such as I practically learnt. 

FREDERICK HENNIKER. 


Newton Hall, 
Aug. 1822. 


DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 


Jerusalem—-to face the Title-Page. 

Tablet of Hieroglyphics—to face Page 163. 
Convent of Mount Sinai—to face Page 22a 




































1 










































VISIT 


TO 

EGYPT, NUBIA, THE OASIS BCERIS, 
MOUNT SINAI, 

ETC. 


CHAPTER I. 

VOYAGE FROM MALTA—PILOT BOAT-ALEXANDRIA— 

FLIES* 

DEAR W- 

As your accident on Mount Vesuvius is also my 
misfortune, depriving me of your company to 
Egypt, I shall alleviate part of my own at least, 
by occasionally sending you an extract from my 
journal. 

October 6th, 3 p. m. —Took the good wishes of 
my friends at Malta, and went on board the brig 
Costante, already under weigh for Alexandria, and 
at 3 p. m. commenced my unceasing wish, that the 
voyage was over,—wind fresh but fair—and fair 
but fresh—the sun in setting appeared particularly 
red; the captain and myself looked at it with very 


B 


2 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


different sensations—I admired it: the captain ap¬ 
plied the word “ Capote” as an epithet, and sent 
for his great coat,—it soon came on a violent gale; 
however it was very well when over —we had run 
two hundred miles in twenty-four hours. 

8th—9th.—Time passes on as it usually does at 
sea; “ how far have we come, how far have we to 
go, at what rate are we going, when do you think 
we shall arrive—only guess,”—no mile-stones—no 
land—no ships—not even a straw for a drowning 
man to catch at—“ nil nisi pontus et aer,” as the 
Latin grammar says. 

In so long a traject as from Malta to Egypt, a 
landsman has a right to expect a weather adventure, 
but not when the stars are unusually bright and 
beautiful. The same breeze that removes the clouds 
causes the waves to arise. About midnight I found 
my head knocking itself against either side of my 
birth, as if it was not my own, an awful bell was 
summoning all hands upon deck—“ hear it not 
Duncan”—pumps going, brandy going, and so was 
my breath, no “ aes triplex” to keep my heart in its 
proper place, the pitching of the vessel had the 
same alarming effect, as descending the mountains 
of pleasure in the jardin Beaujon at Paris ; I shall 
never again call St. Peter coward, and I repent of 
having with you, in the straits of Messina, abused 
Virgil for exaggerating Scylla and Charybdis; 
I now think Homer more unpardonable for at- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 3 

tempting to express the threats of the sea in one 
word. 

14th.—Wind little, and none, there is a feather 
vane near the steersman, it droops : I put lighter 
feathers, but it wo’n’t do; we are however near 
land, a heavy mist that falls at the moment of sun¬ 
set warns us of our approach to Egypt. 

15th.—The sea is brown and brackish, this is 
owing to the influx of the Nile, and yet we are pro¬ 
bably forty miles from the mouth of the river—the 
Nile overpowers the sea: the Thames submits— 
the night is so dark and the coast so dangerous, 
that we go wilfully away from the very place we 
wish to arrive at. 

16th.—Day break: hail to the gardens of Ro¬ 
setta : we have overshot our mark and tack back 
for Alexandria: a low white streak scarcely rising 
above the level of the sea, compared by Denon to 
a riband stretched along the horizon—Pompey’s 
pillar looks like a light-house and answers the pur¬ 
pose of a land-mark. 

Alexandria has two ports, the old and the new; 
the latter is exposed and not frequented: the former 
is not easy of access, it has a mouth like that of a 
mad dog, rocks like teeth, protruding, foaming, and 
threatening; still a chance of commencing my ad¬ 
ventures with a shipwreck like many travellers in 
this quarter; a boat-load of screaming pilots gives 
a horror and interest to the scene; the dresses of 
b 2 


4 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


these men, unlike that neat uniformity which per¬ 
vades our seafaring class, are as gay and diversified 
as the variations of fancy, colour, and embroidery 
can make them—turbans, poniards, red shoes, no 
stockings, mustaches extending on either side the 
face like a cat’s feelers—a grey-bearded fellow who 
seems old enough to have been pilot to Noah, and 
clothed in Josephs garment, his legs crossed, his 
arms folded, with a pipe in his hand, is perpetually 
screaming out “ Hay-lay-essah, Hay-lay-essah,” 

(God help us, God-); and now that we have 

cleared the rocks, and that the danger is over, old 
grey-beard comes on board for payment, he asks 
also, “ becksheesh,” a regalo, a present; his com¬ 
ing on board is worth something, for the permis¬ 
sion to do so is a sign that the plague does not at 
present exist in Alexandria. It is nearly the mo¬ 
ment of sun-set and gate-locking, so that I cannot 
yet make my escape from this moving jail, nor can 
I at present discover any thing to tempt me on 
shore except a few palm-trees, and what will also 
defy my curiosity, a large white building at the 
extremity of a tongue of land, far removed from 
man; it is the Harem belonging to the Cleopatras 
of the Pasha. 

We have run nearly a thousand miles in ten 
days, a rate I should be most happy to compound 
for with Neptune and his unholy allies. 

17 th.—I have been on shore ; the very stepping 


THE OASIS BCEIUS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 5 

stones at the water’s edge are a mass of antiqui¬ 
ties, about to quit their native country, with strong 

letters of recommendation from Messrs.-and 

——, to the respective governments of England 
and France ; defaced hieroglyphics and noseless 
statues sent for no visible reason, unless for ballast. 
Who would imagine that such things are to be paid 
for ? If such are the pieces of the gorgeous palaces 
that are considered worth carrying away, there will 
scarcely be left a wreck behind ! 1 may return to 

Rome to look at obelises, and to London and Paris 
for all else of Egyptian labour. 

Conducted to the house of the English Consul; 
streets narrow, winding, and filthy ; houses low, 
unfinished and unfurnished; where there ought to 
be glass, is a closely reticulated wooden grating, 
like the screens of a nunnery, and to answer the 
same purpose ; the women here are born in a pri¬ 
son, they live in a prison, and they die in a prison, 
if they escape being tied in a sack and drowned. 
Contrasted with the vile appearance of the town 
are the gaudy habiliments of the people; one might 
imagine the place to be wealthy—but there are also 
such a number of half clothed and half starved, 
that Alexandria appears to be a national poor-house. 
Coffies and smokies are as frequent and as frequent¬ 
ed as gin-shops and ale houses in London. In lieu 
of silversmiths and confectioners, are tobacco-cut- 




6 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


ters and barbers ; at length we enter the only 
street that boasts a pane of glass; this is inhabited 
by Francs. The term Franc is applied to every 
head that has a hat on it; and here forgetting all 
national and religious differences, they flock toge¬ 
ther, as Jews do in London, and Turks in Venice. 

Arrived at the consulate—no one knocks at Mr. 
Lee’s doors without experiencing disagreeable sen¬ 
sations, till within them . They are evidently con¬ 
structed as a defence against either plague or mob ; 
being double and having a small aperture for cau¬ 
tion’s sake. 

In the town is an inn and a table d’hote , the table 
being covered with oil-skin, which is an anti¬ 
plague ; here are also lodgings to let, but I retain 
my birth on board the brig ; there is a wide dif¬ 
ference between being in a ship when at sea, and 
when it cannot run away with you ; we have a 
minor plague on board, musquitoes and flies, they 
boarded us yesterday as busy as custom-house offi¬ 
cers ; the flies are wading incessantly through this 
scrawl, following my pen as crows do the plough. 
What trouble, not sport, Domitian would have had 
here! Sir R. Wilson states that he used to kill such 
quantities at a time that it “ appeared as if a cask 
of currants had been spilt.” It is surely no harm 
to kill a musquito, and I know not which are our 
greatest enemies, the flies or the musquitoes, they 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 7 


hold divided sway—half sting by night, the others 
sting by day. 

Yours. 

P.S. Whenever I make use of Arabic terms, I 
shall write them as my ear dictates to my pen. 


8 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER II. 

PLAGUE-DOGS-OBELISCS-POMPEY’s PILLAR- 

CATHOLIC CHAPEL-CANAL-CATACOMBS-FLIES. 


ALEXANDRIA, 21sT OCTOBER. 

The camel with our luggage is gone, and the don¬ 
keys that are to carry ourselves are ready; they do 
not appear so anxious to proceed as our guide, 
who says that if we turn out of our way to look for 
where Canopus fait, it will be dark ere we reach 
the half-way house.—But to my mem.—Concern¬ 
ing the plague, nothing certain is known of it ex¬ 
cept its dreadfulness—fear, as in all other coun¬ 
tries, and other diseases is a conductor; if so, I run 
great risk. A merchant here at the commence¬ 
ment of the late plague shut up his house, and 
would allow no one to answer the door but himself; 
he caught the plague, and died ; all the other in¬ 
mates escaped. Among curious cases there is one 
on record at Malta. A tailor, who had procured 
some silk from an infected house, passed the even¬ 
ing with a soldier and his wife : the tailor went 
home, and the soldier and his wife to bed; on the 
following morning the woman found her husband 
dead by her side : she was put into the lazzaretto, 
as was also the tailor: at the end of three weeks 


THE OASIS BG5RIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 9 

the infection manifested itself upon the latter, 
and he died; the woman escaped altogether. 
There is no calculating upon safety—till after the 
24th of June. Then , even the Turks, who are fa¬ 
talists, have a feast, under the idea that the plague 
ceases on that day—it usually about that time goes 
out of town for the season, or remains incog. 

Walked towards the obelises of Cleopatra, they 
are situated at the edge of the new port. Within 
a few yards of the town, the butchers were quar¬ 
tering buffaloes: the sands fetid with offals: 
sharks and dogs are the only scavengers. Here 
commences a wall, which is supposed to be a de¬ 
fence, and is-called the city wall - y under it are 
frequent mounds of rubbish, such as are seen in 
the purlieus of London, where retiring citizens pla¬ 
card “ Belle vue” upon a cottage. Attempting to 
pass the first of these filth hills, a pack of brindled 
wolf dogs rushed forth, barking furiously as if they 
knew me to be a Christian. I had almost deter¬ 
mined, Actaeon-like, to fly, but stood at bay, and 
at length backed out of their dirty territories, the 
dogs following till we approached a second mound. 
Here a second kennel burst out upon us, and the 
former, having handed us over to strict watch, re¬ 
tired. They have a method in their madness ; and 
are quite as likely to frighten strangers as were the 
geese of the Capitol. 

The town wall runs between the water’s edge 


10 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

and the obelises : fragments of pillars and archi¬ 
tectural remains, probably once connected with 
them, are visible under the neighbouring waves. 
Encountered the dogs once more, and entered the 
town. 

Met a crowd of Roman Catholics returning from 
mass: they have a neat chapel, which is not only 
tolerated by the government, but even surmounted 
by the Turkish flag to preserve it from insult. 
In Bucharest, the capital of a Turkish province, 
every religion is tolerated—except the Mahomme- 
dan—strange inconsistency. The Pope has an 
armed force, and having an armed force has the 
word Peace inscribed upon his standard. Near the 
chapel stand three plain granite columns, \h&tmay 
have been part of a portico, or any thing else. I 
really cannot make them interesting: Denon has 
made a pretty picture of the subject; but the 
beauties of it do not exist. Nearly opposite is a 
ruined mosque, in which was found a noble sarco¬ 
phagus, it was packed up cleverly by the French 
for the Louvre, but il se trouve in the British Mu¬ 
seum ; the cross is still evident on some of the 
stones used in this Turkish temple—but even the 
eagle is not obliterated from all the public build¬ 
ings at Paris. I laboured onward over some acres 
of crockery: at Rome it is difficult to believe that 
Monte Testaccio is formed of such materials, but 
here we may fancy the wreck of all the potteries of 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 11 

Egypt. The city cisterns are filled but once yearly, 
by the overflow of the Nile; they are spacious, and 
underground; will soon fall into disuse probably, 
as a canal is about to be opened betwixt the river 
and the town ; at present 1 am watching a camel, 
he carries two goat skins for water—kneels down 
at command near the opening of the cistern ; the 
skins being filled, he springs up, and bears his bur¬ 
den to the town—if cunning did not master strength, 
camels and elephants would never submit to man. 
The obelises of Cleopatra do not appear striking to 
one accustomed to those at Rome ; even in size 
they yield to that standing before the church of St. 
John Lateranensis. One of them is under sailing 
orders for London, in the other there is nothing so 
remarkable as to observe that the hieroglyphics on 
two of the sides are nearly effaced by the pelting 
of the sand ; such is the effect of minute particles 
even upon granite, while the sides exposed to the 
saline atmosphere, have not suffered the slightest 
injury, and three thousand years have passed heed¬ 
lessly by. These obelises are called the Needles 
of Cleopatra: they have no eyes to them, but if 
they had, a cable six feet in diameter might pass 
through as easily as through the 44 Needles of the 
Isle of Wight.” 

Pompey's pillar stands without the walls ; the 
distance at which it is seen at sea prepares one for 
the intelligence that it is nearly 100 feet in height: 


12 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

the shaft is said to be the loftiest in the world (as 
a single block). This bel pezzo of granite is in 
height superior to perhaps any house in London ; 
and here, where the buildings are comparatively 
cottages, appears to great advantage; the capital 
(Corinthian order) is different as to material, and 
indifferent as to workmanship : in its character as 
a column it is less pleasing than many at Rome and 
Athens, and, as a monument, it is not to be com¬ 
pared with Trajan’s pillar, nor with that in the 
Place Vendome at Paris, nor with the Monument 
in London : it may have an inscription, because 
Quaresmius gives one and Hamilton gives an¬ 
other : the former says it was erected by Alex¬ 
ander ; I leave the curious to settle the point—whe¬ 
ther it was erected in honor of Alexander, or of 
Diocletian, or of Severus—“ tulit alter honores.” 
I did not ascend it, though not forgetful of the plan 
of flying a kite, as was done over the tower at Pisa. 
It is quite sufficient for me to be told by our cap¬ 
tain, that he, in company with seventeen others, 
dined on the top. Encamped near the pillar is one 
of the Pasha’s sons, whose duty is to superintend 
the operations going on at the new canal, and to 
prevent the labourers from deserting: these labour¬ 
ers are procured by conscriptions levied on the vil¬ 
lages : Egypt is still “ the house of bondage.” 
Met part of the governor’s harem: each woman 
riding on a donkey, and covered with a mantle of 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 13 

black silk, as with a cloud; I should have mistaken 
them for bales of goods; can form no opinion of 
either face or figure. 

The canal is the labour of many thousand wretches 
brought together by force, and ill paid for their 
work ; many of them who had probably never seen 
a hat before, surrounded us: Becksheesh was the 
rallying word: these poor wretches are covered 
with rags,—at least those who have enough of them. 
There is but little method in their labour: that of 
raising water from one level to another is an inge¬ 
nious piece of awkwardness; a low bank is built up, 
two men at a few paces distant, opposite each other, 
swing a rush basket through the obnoxious pool, 
the water, that does not fall through, is thrown 
over the bank, and in this manner it is handed on. 
At the moment of sunset, a note of exultation ran 
through the workmen ; with scarcely an exception 
they performed their ablutions in the dirty puddles, 
and knelt down on the spot to pray. All turned 
their faces towards Mecca: a Mohammedan always 
does while praying, whatever part of the world he 
may be in, as fire worshippers to the sun, and as we 
turn towards Jerusalem when repeating the creed. 
Prayers finished, those who had any thing to eat, 
supped, and a miserable number who had nothing, 
scratched a kind of grave in the sand, and, taking 
off their rags, endeavoured to itiake a coverlid, 
particularly to guard the head—a custom practised 


14 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


also by the natives of the Arctic regions. The 
gates of the town locked—Becksheesh effected a 
breach. 

Went with a party armed to see the excavations : 
about two miles W. of the town some paltry cham¬ 
bers have been cut in the rock, and being washed 
by the sea, are nicknamed, “ The Baths of Cleo¬ 
patra in the neighbourhood the stone-cutters 
have displayed their fancy in forming a kind of 
temple, and sundry chambers; these are called the 
catacombs, but are very inferior to those at Syra¬ 
cuse, or even to those at Paris ; they are half filled 
with dirt: a quantity of bones and holes indicates 
that these places have long been the resort of wild 
animals; an hyaena had been killed here a few days 
before, and our guide discharged a musket at en¬ 
tering ; we were also provided with the ship’s line, 
which we made use of as a clue to our egress : the 
story of people having been lost is applied to these 
catacombs, in common with all others from the time 
of Theseus; our arms were meant to be of use 
should the Arabs have attempted to fasten us in for 
ransom, a trick by no means uncommon. 

Revisited the canal: in the cross cut that com¬ 
municates with the new port, and within 200 yards 
of it, 20 feet below the surface of the sands, is a 
considerable extent of laboured stone, and two 
granite columns of a peculiar want of order, draw¬ 
ing to a point at the top : if this fabric ever formed 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 15 

part of Alexandria, as it probably did, it must 
have been at that time when, according to report, 
it contained a population three times as large as 
that of London is at present; at that time too the 
library was in existence, but the glory of this part 
of the world passeth away: the town is sunk below 
comparison, and as to books, the library is now 
reduced to the Koran, a pocket Vade Mecum, that 
contains love, law, and religion; throughout the 
Mohammedan dominions, which occupy no incon¬ 
siderable space of the ancient hemisphere, there are 
but three printing presses: Plato and Pythagoras 
once came to Egypt to learn The town of 
Alexandria, from the land side, appears like a 
stone-mason’s yard, nothing to relieve the eye from 
sun, sand, and stone, except a few palm-trees, and 
occasionally a flag, denoting a consulate; the town- 
wall embraces a large space of ground, containing 
gardens, and even hamlets. Turning a corner 
suddenly, I came near a woman whose veil was 
raised, she screamed, and appeared angry. I had 
no reason to congratulate myself, though it is the 

* The Pasha has now founded a library, but even the present 
want of books is not without its advantage. There are no blue¬ 
stockings ; nor should we, if marriages were as easily made in 
England as in Turkey, be troubled with so many of them. It is 
really lamentable to observe that ladies, who, while they had a 
chance, made themselves amiable, evincing nothing but the milk 
of human nature, should, after a little time,* turn sour, and talk 
blue—or at least look so. 


16 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


first female face that I have seen in Egypt, it may* 
also be the plainest: every woman wears a sort 
of Venetian mask, and reminds me of a funeral 
fraternity at Rome ; but, if I may be allowed to 
judge by the sample, I suffer no great privation. 

A small battery thrown up by the French is still 
in existence; under it is a neat mosque lately erect- 
ed by public subscription; it is said that the Prophet 
appeared to the Viceroy, and commanded it to be 
done ; the - magnificent church of Santa Maria 
Maggiore, at Rome, was built in consequence of 
a similar miraculous imposition. The Pasha is not 
considered over-religious, but can quote Scripture. 

The most strange, the most disgusting, and the 
most unavoidable sight in Alexandria is this—the 
eyes and mouths of all the children are literally 
embanked with flies; their mouths are beset as if 
they were the mouths of honey-bottles, their eyes 
are too filthy for description; the children have no 
prescient dread of ophthalmia, but suffer these ver¬ 
min to remain undisturbed; whether these two 
organs of sense are used as fly-traps, or whether to 
be fly-blown is to be complimented, I will not de¬ 
cide; but Plato was more fortunate in his infancy 
in being overswarmed by bees. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 17 


CHAPTER III. 

Mirage—swallows—canopus—bedouins—etko 

-ROSETTA—GARDENS-BOGAZE-RICE MAGAZINE 

-ABLUTION-COFFEE AND PIPES-MORE DOGS. 

ROSETTA, 22d OCTOBER. 

I also call this place by its Franc name, because 
you do, and every one else unacquainted with the 
proper term ; the natives call it Rashid; the Ita¬ 
lians—and Italian is the current medium of con¬ 
versation in this country— terminate every word 
with a vowel; those who never heard of Haroun 
el Rashid, give another meaning to the word, and 
Rashid da becomes Rosetta. I am cooling myself 
in the Franc inn, for though the distance from 
Alexandria to this place is only twelve hours, and 
though we tarried that same length of time at the 
half-way house, I arrive im -patiens solis atque pul- 
veris. 

On leaving Alexandria, we enter immediately 
on the desert,—no cultivation, no land worth five 
guineas per acre— about a league in advance, 
there appears to be a large sheet of water, inter¬ 
spersed with rocks and cattle immersed to their 
knees, their images are seen reflected, though the 
surface of the mirror is disturbed by a flickering 
haziness; oppressed with heat and sand you has¬ 
ten onwards, the water still receding as you ad- 
c 


18 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


vance,—surely one of the plagues of Tantalus was 
invented on this spot; an ignis fatuus is not half 
so provoking as this “ mirage ,” again and again 
deceiving l though the last deception left you de¬ 
termined not to be deceived again. Thus even the 
desert is productive of interest; an infinity of sand 
is in itself a novelty, not a pleasing one; yet to 
know that it is sand, and at the same time only not 
believe that it is water, equals any deception in the 
legerdemain of nature ; for the solution see the ex¬ 
perimental philosophy of Dr. Woolaston. 

Swallows in great numbers skim over the plain: 
are theyalso deceived? The plumage of their breasts 
is of a deep red colour : I leave it to naturalists to 
determine whether it is the same bird that comes 
with summer, when summer does come to England, 
and if, in changing country, it changes plumage. 

Distant about three hours from Alexandria, la¬ 
bourers are making excavations in the sand, they 
call it Canopus ; I saw no fruit of their industry, 
but am told that whatever is found, is again hidden, 
till a sufficiency is collected for market. The 
Francs buy any thing that bears the sign of antiqui¬ 
ty. At the water’s edge are the remains of some 
colossal figures and baths, which denote the ancient 
site; they are accurately depicted by Denon. 

Approached some Bedouins: they live in low 
ragged tents; a wooden bowl, a coffee-pot, a mat 
. to sleep on, a gourd rind for water, a donkey, and 


THE OASrS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 19 

a goat for milk, comprise their domestic utensils; 
their appellation is derived from a word signifying 
desert —they pack up and pack off at a moment’s 
notice, as our gipsies. I requested a draught of 
water, which was brought to me in the bowl, enough 
for man and donkey; the bearer of it, a fine young 
woman, wore a pair of large ear-rings: it seemed 
as if she had sold her wardrobe to purchase these 
barbarous ornaments: she was otherwise beauty 
unadorned, except being tattooed. A man was 
employed in making cloth, I hope for the young 
woman. The Bedouins in general live beyond the 
reach of despotism, and differ much from those who 
dwell in the cultivated parts of the country. We 
had passed the spot where Abercromby fell, and 
were now within sight of Aboukir. Denon, speak¬ 
ing of the battle of the Nile, boasts that two or 
three vessels escaped from Nelson, having cut and 
run in a fog — u faltere et effugere est triumphus ”. 
Etko, the half-way house, a wooden hutnearly filled 
with a wooden dresser; stretched my mattress and 
myself upon it. A dirty fellow was baling out cof¬ 
fee all night; a gin-shop cannot be more disagree - 
able; the boards of the roof had parted company, 
and the stars and myself were winking at one an¬ 
other till morning. 

Oct. 6 a.m.— No English breakfast to be 
got; no breakfast of any kind; nothing but coffee, 
half grits and half water, neither sugar nor milk, 
c 2 


20 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


Mounted our donkies, five hours to Rosetta; fee*' 
tween Alexandria and this place a few palm-trees 
diversify the desert; bleached bones indicate the 
road as plainly as they did from Waterloo to Paris. 
By the way-side is occasionally placed a tub of 
water, the pious bequest of some rich Mussulman 
—this is charity! 

Rosetta is of better construction than Alexan¬ 
dria, the houses higher, with the convenience that 
in the upper stories you may shake hands across 
the streets; the streets or lanes are therefore dark, 
but the sun is excluded, which is not an advantage 
in London: the bricks are of a dark colour, ce¬ 
mented with a profusion of white mortar, and have 
a peculiar appearance. See plate by Denon. The 
gardens here are delightful, as any thing green and 
cool might well be to one coming from the desertj 
these, however, would be valued even after ordi¬ 
nary verdure : they are not so extensive as I had 
imagined, but more beautiful than I could have 
conceived ; every thing is in wild luxuriance, and 
literally a wilderness of sweets ; how different 
from a French garden, formed by axe and rule 
into mathematical lines. The banana, the palm, 
the orange, lemon, cedrato, and hennelx, besides 
being objects of novelty and beauty, are all in bear¬ 
ing. The banana pleases me most, both in its fruit 
and in its appearance; the leaves are nearly six feet 
in length, and of a width to render them just ele- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 21 

gant. The banana is called musa paradisiaca, two 
leaves would have made a gown for Eve, instead 
of her making a shift with fig-leaves. The hen- 
neh, loved-of-women, resembles myrtle. The va¬ 
rious species of orange struggle for room, and the 
whole is surmounted by palm-trees, the leaves of 
which resemble and droop like ostrich feathers. I 
never saw a hot-house to please me so much, 
scarcely excepting a drawing-room levee at Buck- 
ingham-gate. The trilingual' stone that was dis¬ 
covered here is to be found now in the British 
Museum ; no object of curiosity remains except 
the gardens. I wish that they were in London too. 

23d October.—Hired a small boat and visited 
the Bogaze ; the Bogaze is a sandy island or plain, 
occasionally lent by the sea, and affords a scanty 
pasturage; the sand annually accumulates, and 
the navigation is already so dangerous that the 
Arabs say, “ he who is not afraid of the Bogaze 
does not fear God.” The new canal will entirely 
destroy the commerce of Rosetta, and of the seven 
mouths of the Nile, the mouth at Damietta will 
be the only one without a locked jaw. It is not 
worth the while to go to the Bogaze, were it not 
for a sail through a magnificent wood of palm-trees, 
and the view at return of the aspiring minarets of 
Rosetta; it is, however, some consolation to you, 
that a grove of palm-trees are inferior to the same 
number of firs, in alpine scenery, and that a mi- 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

naret in the distance is but little better than an old 
fashioned chimney. A palm is elegant as to its 
leaves, but the trunk is a long and bare straight line, 
like Lady Lath-and-plaster at a drawing-room, or a 
corpse carrying its own plume of feathers. I in¬ 
tend making the tour of Lower Egypt before I visit 
Cairo ; my two boatmen of to-day have almost 
persuaded me to take their skiff, which is only 
eighteen feet long—the waters are out, and I can 
cut across the country; the fashionable thing is a 
candgy or a maash, which you hire reasonably to 
yourself, and in your own cabin, you can go from 
one end of Egypt to the other without seeing any 
thing, and perform your journey moreover with 
great expedition; but I am not carrying despatches, 
and do wish to see-the manners of the natives: a 
candgy is to a maash as a gondola to a barge— 
walked through the rice magazine, nearly all the 
rice of the kingdom is collected here, and it all 
belongs to one man, the Pasha himself—this mer¬ 
chant viceroy monopolises the whole, and at his own 
price ; when the grain is nearly ripe, soldiers are 
placed in the fields as guards, lest the Pasha should 
be defrauded, and lest he who sows should reap : 
“ proprio condidit horreo , quicquid de LibycisP 
Saw a Turk of consequence perform his ablu¬ 
tion—it was near the river’s edge in public ; one 
slave poured water over his foot as he held it up, 
another wiped it, and in the same manner of his 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 23 

hands—ablation is the purification from all unclean¬ 
liness, is commanded to be performed five times a 
day, and extra after every dirty act; such as 
touching a dog or a Christian (dogs and Christians 
are often called by the same name, Kelb), thus 
often is a Mohammedan baptised;—a Turk does not 
wear either gloves or stockings, nor even his walk¬ 
ing shoes in a house, lest they might be consi¬ 
dered a screen of dirt; cleanliness is next to god¬ 
liness. 

24th October.—The boatman promised that he 
would not sit all daylong cross-legged and smoking; 
the English vice-consul answers for his honesty, 
and I am persuaded. As to the honesty of this 
place, I have been robbed twice, and this has hap¬ 
pened on two successive nights; the only two 
(the night at Etko being sleepless) that I have 
slept on shore; without alluding to the circum¬ 
stance, I enquired the character of my hosts ; the 
vice-consul assures me that they are of good repute 
—I did not mention my loss, willing rather to abide 
it than cast even a suspicion on characters reput¬ 
edly honest; a hook either through the roof or 
through the windows may have been the means— 
the window-place is open—neither glass nor board. 

The skiffis ready, a matting is put up: a mattress, 
a small sail, and a pair of oars, incommode the 
crew considerably. At taking leave of the vice- 
consul, coffee and pipes were presented by ^ slave ; 


24 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


the vice-consul is not an Englishman ; he is, how¬ 
ever, supposed to be a Christian ; coffee and pipe 
answer to “ refreshment,” and are invariably 
brought in without a “ will you allow me to offer ?” 
drinking and smoking expressed by the same word 
in Arabic, eisherab—the pipe is of wood, either 
cherry or jassmine, in length about six feet—length 
cools the smoke—Kinneir mentions one too long 
for the room, and always put in at the window, 
mem. to try a fishing rod; presenting a cup of 
coffee, the slave places his hand on his forehead, 
his lips, and his heart, signifying that he honours 
you in thought, word, and strength ; he pledges 
faith to you at the same time in one of the usual 
forms of “ double life to you,” or some other set 
phrase—poison is sometimes administered in cof¬ 
fee 5 there is no other cup for the tragedy queen 
here—but the slave does not “ make essay,” the 
cup not being so big as an egg-shell.—I go on 
board. 

P. S. More dogs—I count upwards of thirty 
tearing a cow yet warm, and in the public street. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 


25 


CHAPTER IV. 

VOYAGE TO DAMIETTA-COSA-FA AND NON-FA-NIENTE 

-FECUNDITY-SAIS-IBIS ARDEA-JERREED- 

“ FANTASIA”-MENOUF—SEMENHOUD-BEYBAIT 

-MERSY-CHARMS—MENZALEH-LAKE-DAMI¬ 
ETTA. 

DAMIETTA alias DAMIATH. 

Reached Damietta at length—a long and weary 
voyage—we proceeded up the Rosetta branch of 
the river as far as the canal of Menouf, by which 
we found a way into the second leg of the Delta. 
Dropped down to Mansoura, followed the canal 
that communicates with Menzaleh, and crossing 
the lake of that name, have reached Damietta at 
length . The Rosetta branch is lined with palms, 
sycamores, and acacias (mimosa Egypt.), and the 
numberless villages are enlivened with birds un¬ 
known in England. The Damietta branch is naked 
and dull; the canal of Mansoura is worse ; from 
the lake of Menzaleh a wood of palm-trees stretches 
itself to this place. I could almost compare it to the 
gardens of Rosetta—it afforded us shelter. Dr. 
Gregory says, that love is the effect of gratitude. 
My boatmen are two brothers; the elder does 


26 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

nothing but smoke; the younger all the work: 
the latter is near-sighted, and makes many mis¬ 
takes, but coolly reconciles every thing in the true 
Italian style. “ Cosa-fa ? Non-fa-niente.” I natu¬ 
rally call busy body, cosa-fa—and lazy boots, non- 
fa-niente. 

25.—The country seems as fertile of sparrows as 
it is of grain. Aristotle speaks of the fecundity of 
Egypt with regard to women. 

Frequently is to be seen the mast of a founder¬ 
ed vessel. It being the grain season, and the ves¬ 
sels laden for the Pasha, they are probably wilfully 
scuttled. In the neighbourhood of Salthaggar are 
the ruins of Sa'is. Went on shore, about half a mile 
distant there was a djerm aground, and a corn ves¬ 
sel had, been sunk near it. Saw six naked black 
fellows leap overboard, and I thought myself their 
prey. They seized my boat; I hastened back, they 
told me that their vessel was aground, and the 
passengers wished to be put on shore. I went with 
them for that purpose; there was a company of 
soldiers on board, two of whom immediately jump¬ 
ed into our boat, and took us on a cruise. We 
soon fell in with a djerm, which the soldiers seized, 
and liberated us. One of them, when he took pos¬ 
session, told me, that he was “a Turk—a Turk — 
not a fellah” Our boatmen are what are termed 
fellahs; that is, native labourers. Fellah seems to 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 27 

answer to our old word villanus *, and to be syno¬ 
nymous with villain, as a term of reproach. Sai’s 
is at this time under water, nothing to be seen ex¬ 
cept the mounds that denote the ancient site, and 
the excavations that indicate the labour of the 
Arabs. They tell us that Francs, foolish Francs, 
come there to buy whatever is found; that only 
one statue or monument is left, and that because 
it cannot be taken away, “ not even an English- ^ 
man can move it.” Shot some beautiful birds, the 
entire plumage snow white, and in form as grace¬ 
ful as the heron, but the body not larger than a 
parrot’s. Cosa-fa concealed them lest the natives 
should be offended. This bird lives upon locusts 
and grasshoppers. A Dutchman would not thank 
me for killing a stork. The country is flat and 
covered with water. It resembles the sea, at least 
as much as do the lagunes of Venice. 

Upon an artificial elevation, on the banks of the 
river, were huddled together men and cattle, driven 
from their villages by this annual deluge: they will 
never find their houses again, for the inundation 
will cause them to return to the mud of which they 
came; however, they can soon re-earth themselves, 
and their houses will make good manure. I would 
have gone on shore, but Cosa-fa was afraid that I, 


Proprietary husbandman. 


£8 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

in my character of a Christian, might be bastonaded. 
I confess, that the spirit of martyrdom did not 
urge me on. 

Observed a Turkish encampment on the bank, 
the cavalry were amusing themselves with the ex¬ 
ercise of the jerreed. Steered towards them. The 
Turkish soldiers fight individually—each man trusts 
to his own prowess. In practising the jerreed he 
urges his horse to full speed, throws a lance, stops 
short in mid gallop, and wheels suddenly. Slaves, 
or running footmen in attendance to pick up the 
lances. The variety and gaiety of their costume 
give a fine stage effect to this “game of soldiers.” 
We were within a few yards of the bank when an 
officer, snatching up a musket, took aim at poor 
Non-fa-niente, commanding him to run the boat at 
shore immediately,—which he did. Cosa-fa,—he 
said that “ the officer would have shot him soon as 
he would a duck, though he had much better shoot 
a duck;” a soldier came on board, and we were or¬ 
dered to give him a passage to Cairo; as soon as 
out of gun-shot of the camp, I offered him the 
choice of going on shore where we then were, or 
on board the first vessel we should see going up 
the river; he preferred the latter: and, as he seemed 
a bon diable, I did not care to turn him out. The 
sound of music led us on shore at the village of 
Zeara, where a “ fantasia” was given to celebrate 


The oasis bceris, mount sinaI, etc. 0# 

the Eastern religious rights inflicted on children, 
an event which occasions as much rejoicing to 
the Mohammedan parents as the christening of 
a son and heir in Christendom. Two drums 
and two squeaking pipes formed the band. Eight 
villagers were very awkwardly, but very inno¬ 
cently, handling some long poles, with which 
they pretended to strike at one another, but gave a 
minute’s notice as to what part of the body was the 
object of attack: during this, they kept time to 
the music like dancing bears; these poles are iron- 
bound at either end, and are the arms of the villagers. 
The dance and sham-fight are as much objects of 
delight to the Arabs as the Romaica to the Greeks: 
the jokes of our sword-stick players are more seri¬ 
ous. The ladies who graced this tournament with 
their company, were seated on horseback, and be¬ 
dizened with feathers, grease, necklaces of onions, 
and other attractions. The clown upon a donkey, 
with his face to the tail, was the master of the ce¬ 
remonies: he cleared the way for us, and did not 
forget becksheesh ; his face was white-washed, and 
he was clothed, which is no slight disguise to an 
Arab; the ladies were without masks, which is a 
less happy conceit; our soldier was of considerable 
use in rendering the corps de ballet content with 
the proffered becksheesh: he was also himself veiy 
liberal in the use of his whip. Returned on board. 


so 


A V,ISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


To avoid the stream, we frequently cut a cross 
country, occasionally aground, once so fast that we 
all got out to help the boat off. I am no longer 
astonished at the fecundity of the Delta: I was up 
to my knees in the alluvial deposit, and our military 
friend, being a very heavy man, was fairly planted: 
had thoughts of leaving him there. Regained the 
river: many boats going up, and though we could 
get within hail, not one would allow us to approach 
near; at length, the soldier concealed his red cap ; 
we came alongside a djerm, and Don Whiskerandos 
jumped on board, without a word, but moving all 
things by his frown, he took Turkish possession of 
the best place—so much for the cap of liberty: the 
appearance of which on board our boat, had always 
indicated a corsair.—He was extremely proud of 
being a Turk, and used to tell poor Non-fa-niente 
that it would stain his sword to take off Arab heads. 
I had a pocket pistol, which was a subject of great 
ridicule to him: he conceived it impossible that so 
short a barrel could be of any service, and almost 
enticed me to fire at him: his own pistol is nearly 
as long as a blunderbuss. 

Enter the canal of Menouf.—Menouf is a large 
village, the inhabitants call it a town: it is sur¬ 
rounded by an embankment of rubbish : at first it 
is almost impossible to conceive how such mounds 
can be formed, but, considering the cheapness of 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. SI 

crockery-ware, and the fragility of mud-houses, 
the laziness of people who never repair, and who 
are not compelled to carry rubbish beyond the out¬ 
skirts of the town, the wonder nearly ceases. At 
Menouf is a manufactory of mats, made of the 
rushes from Natron: they are exported throughout 
all Turkey. No remnants of ancient buildings, ex¬ 
cept that in a mosque are some columns of cyppo- 
lineand granite;—columns are bought wholesale for 
this use. Left Menouf, and had some difficulty in 
finding a hole to hide our boat in: great apprehen¬ 
sion of land pirates. At day-break, drew our boat 
over land into a garden ditch, by which means we 
entered the canal of Carinen : moored at the mouth 
of it. 

At seven a. m. entered the Damietta branch of 
the Nile, floated down to Semenhoud : the remains 
of an ancient building are here to be seen; that is, 
a piece of masonry has been discovered, and re¬ 
covered ; but it is uncovered as often as any one 
will give becksheesh. 

Left Semenhoud: in two hours landed on the 
west bank opposite to Wheesh, and in half an hour 
reached the ruins of Beybait: here was once a gra¬ 
nite temple, the material, the style, and the hiero¬ 
glyphics of which, rendered it perhaps one of the 
most beautiful in Egypt: there is not now one stone 
upon another—in the order they ought to be in— 
it is fallen into a mass like the temple of Hercules 


33 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

at Girgenti. I was ruminating on the strength of 
Samson, when an Arab of the neighbouring village 
gave me the following tradition : Mohammed pass¬ 
ing by this temple, applied to a Christian for a bit 
of bread; the Christian refused; the temple fell im¬ 
mediately, and the town went to ruins. To this he 
added, “ you Francs come here to look for trea¬ 
sure, because your ancestors built these temples; 
there were a great many more in the kingdom, 
but Mohammed destroyed them all, and you are a 
blastedpeople. ,, Such ideas naturally suggest them¬ 
selves to Arab minds, when they see Francs carry¬ 
ing away mummies, with as much anxiety as if re¬ 
lated to them, and blocks of masonry with as much 
satisfaction as if they had found the philosopher’s 
stone. The relics of Beybait are worth the visit: 
the hieroglyphics are on granite, beautifully exe¬ 
cuted, and nothing to disturb you but owls and 
jackal! s. 

Floated down to Mansoura: entered the canal 
leading to Menzaleh: our boatmen very unwilling, 
they had “ never been there before, and the people 
might be savages;” at length, with becksheesh in 
one hand, and stick in the other, I persuaded them. 

At the village ofMersy we endeavoured to pro¬ 
cure some bread, but it was impossible: the Pasha’s 
agents having accurately calculated to a tooth the 
quantity of grain requisite for the village, had sent 
the overplus to the Pasha’s granary. A crowd of 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 33 

women and children came to the boat: I com¬ 
menced a sketch, all my subjects ran away shriek¬ 
ing. Cosa-fa begged of me to put up my pencil, 
the villagers imagined that I was writing charms, 
and he himself knew the force of magic; he had 
been in love with a damsel who despised the 
charms of his face and fortune ; at length he pro¬ 
cured a written charm, and though neither himself 
nor his Dulcinea could read, through fear she ac¬ 
cepted him. The charm had cost him a dollar : 
the Bank of England could not have penned any 
one more serviceable. It is as distressing as it is 
curious to observe the fear and superstition of the 
people in general:—a pen will put them to flight 
—a hat, though it is looked upon as the ensign of 
freedom, will clear a field of workmen—will ir¬ 
ritate the dogs, and even the buffalo, that animal 
that used to alarm us, will break from its labour 
at the approach of a Franc. 

About four miles SE. of Mersy is a mound of 
rubbish, to which we were directed in pursuance of 
our enquiries concerning antiquities. The waters 
were out—the way dangerous and intricate: at 
length a guide appeared, curiosity induced me, and 
money prevailed on him to proceed. A consider¬ 
able part of the distance we waded nearly breast 
high, for which we were half stripped (N.B. 
leeches here), but as to temples, there are only two 
small parcels of worthless granite. The rushes that 


D 


34 A VISIT TO EGYtT, NUBIA, 

grow here are of a three-sided or prismatic form, 
perhaps the papyrus plant: if not, I have seen 
none since leaving Syracuse. Cattle upon the 
mound, and it was remarkable that wherever a 
hoof had been impressed at the water’s edge, 
the indenture was covered with a lamina of salt, 
having the appearance of ice, yet the water is per¬ 
fectly fresh, the sand alone is impregnated with 
salt. Those who work in salt-mines are subject to 
a complaint in the eyes ; perhaps the ophthalmia is 
in some measure to be attributed to the same cause. 
This excursion occupied four hours. A man in his 
own country will scarcely deviate from the road to 
see a lake or a cathedral; in a strange land where 
he cannot move without danger and an interpre¬ 
ter, he pries into every thing. 

From Mansoura to Menzaleh cost us three days, 
between which latter place and Mersy we saw 
other rubbish mounds, but were informed that 
there were not even stones there. I had sufficiently 
cooled at Mersy not to doubt my informants. 

Menzaleh is a large town, and gives name to the 
lake, concerning which is a long account published 
with Denon’s Egypt. Even here it was with great 
difficulty that we could procure bread and rice— 
Cosa-fa seemed to have had a prescience of famine 
when he objected to this route. The Pasha has 
stopped the communication between the lake and 
the canal, and our boatmen deny the practicability 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 35 

of drawing our skiff into the former. While Cosa- 
fa was running about the town, I was twisting my 
thumbs on a dung drill, at the water’s edge, for my 
Franc dress had subjected me in the bazar to ridi¬ 
cule and abuse. 

Succeeded in dragging our bark into the canal 
of Menzaleh : taken in tow by the Damietta pas- 
sage-boat. A rapid sail of four hours brought us 
to the garden of palm-trees above mentioned. The 
lake of Menzaleh abounds with fish and fishermen. 
A religious beggar or Turkish santon, living on a 
scrap of an island, about five yards square, called 
loudly as we passed for his daily bread, which was 
thrown to him. Rows of pelicans were floating on 
the smooth surface of the water, they appear even 
more beautiful when on wing; they resemble 
swans, while at the same time part of their plum¬ 
age is rose-coloured, and glistens to the sun. 

No inn at Damietta: lodged in the house of the 
English Vice-consul. His table is hospitably spread: 
beds there are none; he allows us to sleep upon 
the boards, but the musquitoes will not. Thus far 
our journey has been tedious and unsatisfactory. 
One village is remarkable as having a house one 
story high : it must belong to a person of conse¬ 
quence. It contains a mat, a coffee-pot, cups, spoon, 
bowl, earthen vessel, water-jars, pompkins, and two 
stones for pounding corn ; hoopoes, hawks, doves, 
d 2 


36 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


and sparrows abound, and live together in apparent 
harmony. 

Dined with Signor-, rich, fat, and jolly. 

To be rich is to be fat—fat is an evil less than care. 
There are many extraordinary things in his house ; 
excellent and various wines, with a free use there¬ 
of, knives, forks, and chairs ; books, and the assur¬ 
ance that your host can read and write. Dinner 
was served a l’Anglaise—at least so it was thought 
to be; excepting a capon, its head stretched out 
like that of a flying wild duck, and its legs in the 
act of supplication, all the meats were in scraps, 
according to the custom of a country where knives 
and forks are unknown, and though we had also 
these rarities, even our host’s son did not under¬ 
stand the use of them, but ate with his fingers. A 
slave was in attendance upon each to brush away 
the flies. These animals seem to have migrated 
from Alexandria. Dinner was finished by half-past 
one—mid-day : water was poured over our hands, 
followed by eau de rose. Pipes and coffee were 
then served, and our host retired to his “ siesta.” 
He generally reads himself to sleep, his library fur¬ 
nishes plenty of soporifics. 

The common wine in use here is imported from 
Cyprus in goats’ skins ; it is sold at about a penny 
a gallon, but is not worth so much: it tastes of 
the skin. There is no memento of St. Louis and 



THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 37 

the Crusade, save the name. I purpose visiting 
Sann and Pelusium—the Cashiff has lent me his 
own favourite slave as a guard, and at Matarieh we 
are to be furnished with a shekh as guide. 


« 


38 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER V. 

MATARIEH-SANN—BURIAL PLACE—TANITIC BRANCH 

-OM FAREDGE-BUBASTIC BRANCH-BEDOUINS 

*—DJIBEL ROMANO-PELUSIUM-TINNEH-TEN- 

NYS. 

On board our little skiff once more. The slave 
lent to be our guard is a black, in himself a host, 
armed with a brace of horse pistols, a sabre and a 
firelock. In four hours landed at Matarieh. Mata- 
rieh gives name to two small islands covered with 
wretched habitations ; the trade consists in salt 
fish and podargue : the former is in perfection, if 
I may judge by my nose. Tame pelicans are in con¬ 
stant attendance to receive the overplus of the ex¬ 
traordinary draughts of fishes taken at this place. 
The price of a pelican, two piastres, one shilling. 
Delayed here the night for a guide. The shekh 
sent in that capacity, has a patriarchal appearance. 
Steer for Sann—arrive in twelve hours. 

Four a. m. —A large boat alongside. Hailed by 
the Cavaliere Frediani and M. Gemini; the latter 
is “ chancellor, 5 ’ i. e. secretary to the English con¬ 
sul at Damietta. At Sann are six obelises, their 
bases vary from six to seven feet; on each a per¬ 
pendicular row of hieroglyphics, all prostrate, but 
it appears that they did stand in a direct line drawn 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 39 

E. and W. in length about one hundred and sixty 
yards: at either end are blocks of granite, so that 
this place was probably once worth seeing—for 
further particulars enquire of Denon. Upon one 
of the highest mounds is a heap of bricks and 
stones—every passing Mussulman adds something 
to the pile. I was requested to do the same; it is 
the burying place of a shekh or saint; the object 
is to perpetuate his memory.—Paraded a small vil¬ 
lage in search of provisions;—surrounded by the 
astonished natives,—the object of curiosity, a hat. 
A man requested permission to put mine upon his 
head—for he had seen the consuls in the Levant, 
who, notwithstanding their eastern robes, wear a 
hat in token of freedom; and he wished to be free. 
Those who were not acquainted with this property 
of the hat of Fortunatus, laughed immoderately 
at it. 

Agreed to accompany the Cavaliere to the Ta- 
nitic branch, and to coast the lake. While I slept 
blackee gave orders to moor in the sedge; on wak¬ 
ing, I missed the other boat; after four hours’ search, 
rejoined it; accepted the offer of going aboard; 
dismissed Cosa-fa, Non-fa-niente and Othello. The 
black refused to go, and stating that he was the 
favourite of the governor, and I only a Christian, 
he ordered both boats home, he also threatened the 
men of the other with a bastonade for daring to 
bring Christians on the lake without permission. 


40 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

The men who know the power of a favourite slave, 
were inclined to obey him, and it was with some 
difficulty that I changed my quarters; blackee in¬ 
sisted on coming also, he fired his pistols and re¬ 
loaded them, he then put his bundle into our boat, 
it was thrown back and he submitted. Gave Cosa-fa 
a note to the Consul at Rosetta—refused also to 
take the shekh, till being informed that he was ne¬ 
cessary to our safety, and that any accident which 
might happen to us, would be visited upon him, 
gave assent. Proceeded by the Tanitic branch to 
the opening “ Om Faredge.” This mouth is about 
one hundred yards in width, but too shallow for 
even our boat to pass; dolphins were sporting round 
us ; the shekh requested me not to fire at them, as 
the crew classically believed that they assist drown¬ 
ing mariners.—Do they not give notice of storms? 

From Om Faredge directed our course towards 
the Bubastic branch. I went on shore shooting; 
the Cavaliere, the Cancelliere, the Shekh, and an¬ 
other joined me—proposed to visit Pelusium and a 
Bedouin encampment. Three hours’ walk, arrive 
at the “ Bubastic mouth,” which we forded, knee 
deep, a hundred yards wide, soon came within sight 
of a long dark rag, flitting in the wind, and this as 
the Shekh informed us was the out-post of the 
Bedouins—not in our route, but it was judged 
better to visit than to be visited : we marched to¬ 
wards it, our guide giving us instructions as to our 


THE OASIS BQBRIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 41 

line of conduct—we were now within a few paces 
of the tent, when seven men sprang upon their feet, 
four of them drew pistols from their belts, and pre¬ 
sented them at our heads, a fifth raised an axe, and 
the elder of the party, uttering a tremendous yell, 
ran forward towards our Shekh, wielding a club, 
as if to kill and bury him at a blow; in an instant 
he dropped this herculean weapon, and placing his 
right hand against the right hand of the Shekh, 
and then on his own breast, said, “ Salam Alekum” 
—Peace to you; this was answered by “ Alekum 
Salam,” and a similar movement of the hand; the 
same ceremony was performed respectively and re¬ 
spectfully by each individual of our party with each 
individual of theirs; and thus having given and re¬ 
ceived the Arab assurance of friendship, we were 
at liberty to consider ourselves safe; to take aim 
at a person is meant as a compliment which is some¬ 
times increased by firing.—I hate compliments, 
particularly in the Arab fashion of “ presenting 
arms;” the feu dejoie may become a ruse de guerre. 
When once an Arab has given his faith, his hospi¬ 
tality is inviolable. We sat down cross-legged; 
coffee was prepared; the Arabs swore “by the 
Sun,” that we were safe, and offered to conduct us 
to their encampment at the Roman mountain, 
“ Djibbel Romano.” One of these Bedouins, an 
invalid, requested advice, concluding that we, be¬ 
ing Francs, were of necessity skilled in medicine. 


42 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


though not one of us had more right to the title 
of doctor than if we had bought diplomas; our sick 
friend offered us house-room for “twenty-one days/* 
and every other requisite that Bedouins can offer. 
Arranged that he should accompany us to his party 
at Djibbel Romano, and to our boat on the follow¬ 
ing day for medicine: thus his illness ensured our 
welfare;—Four hours’ walk, and quite dark, when 
the assault of dogs warned us of our approach to 
the habitations of men or Bedouins: a party were 
seated on the sand round a glimmering fire; an oc¬ 
casional ray exhibited them to horrible advantage: 
ten men, black beards, white teeth, half clothed, 
and completely armed; what would Mrs. Ratcliffe 
have given to have seen them, or I to have been 
away. Banditti when outbanditted on the stage, 
are gentlemen in appearance compared to these 
Bedouins: they sprang up, as if taken by surprise; 
we performed the ceremony of Salam Alekum with 
the whole party; in a few minutes a blazing fire 
was furnished by hospitality and curiosity; our 
number increased by at least fifty, all armed, for 
arms are the first, and clothes a very secondary 
consideration. Pipes, coffee, boiled rice, and bread, 
in form and thinness resembling pancakes, or bar¬ 
ley-bannocks, were soon prepared. These inha¬ 
bitants of the desert “practise the laws of good 
breeding” with a punctilio that even Frenchmen 
would call ultra-polite: whenever an elderly man 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 43 

made his appearance, the whole party invariably 
stood up, and, unconscious of the applause that 
such conduct once obtained, offered the seat, ac¬ 
cording to priority of years: women were gliding 
among the trees, more anxious to see than be 
seen! Pride and curiosity in Arab women, if Arab 
women have any, are severely checked.— The 
Franc fowling-piece is greatly admired; English 
gunpowder is compared with Turkish: the grains 
of the latter are nearly as large as mustard-seed. 
Having been drawn on this expedition from a shoot¬ 
ing walk, I had come without either coat, shoes, 
or stockings, and now had leisure to feel the cold 
—requested to be shown to my bed-room ; did not 
expect a flat candlestick and a pan of coals, but 
having been invited to a residence for three weeks, 
I did hope for a hut of some kind; there was not 
one without women, and to be admitted into the 
same aparmtent with the females, would be an in¬ 
novation unprecedented in Arabian customs; we 
were therefore desired to huddle together in the 
sand, and a rush mat, big enough for the great bed 
at Ware, was spread over the whole party. Twelve 
Bedouins mounted guard in a circle round us ; one 
of them taking notice that I placed my fowling- 
piece carefully by my side, tied an old gun-barrel 
to a stick, without a lock, and offered it to my 
neighbour; our guards disencumbered themselves 
of their clothes, and placing them upon their heads, 


44 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

were soon asleep in the sand. We did not indulge 
in bed after day-break ; a sheep was killed, and de- 
jeune sans fourchette prepared —bread, rice, coffee, 
boiled mutton, and pipes—fingers supplied the 
place of forks—this hastily finished, we took leave. 
Scrambled up a lofty ridge of sand, here, it is said, 
that Pompey was killed, and hence the name Djib- 
bel Romano. Notwithstanding the fatigue of the 
ascent, we were followed by all the invalids of 
the village, not only those really unwell, but those 
who fancied themselves so, and others who beg¬ 
ged for physic, that they might be so; prescribed 
for them all; for many of them a bastonade, which 
prescription was received with great good humour. 
A plain of sand leads to Pelusium, a lamina of 
salt, about an inch in thickness, and of a pale rose 
colour, forms a surface over many hollow places 
in the sand ; accompanied by the invalid and 
three others—four hours’ march brought us to 
the ground-work of Pelusium. Pelusium is said 
to have been the “ key of Egypt,” and to have 
been “ sacked three timesthere is nothing to 
disprove the latter part of the assertion ; of its 
boasted magnificence four red granite columns re¬ 
main, and some few fragments of others. Castle 
of Tinneh—a small stone building—broken honey¬ 
combed guns—reached our boat at 4 p. m. The 
Bedouins came on board for becksheesh ; gave 
them the value of six shillings in money, some me- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 45 

dicine, coffee, tobacco, three bullets, and an empty 
bottle ; one of them asked for brandy; not having 
any, I offered him wine ; his hand went instanta¬ 
neously to his sword; a Mohammedan considers it 
an insult to be offered wine, and he would have 
avenged it had he dared; he muttered something 
about “ prey in the desert;” two of them re¬ 
turned, and two requested permission to accom¬ 
pany us to Damietta. It was dark ere we regained 
the Lake of Menzaleh: as we entered into it, we 
were hailed, and ordered to bring to; could dis¬ 
tinguish two large boats moored in the sedge; re¬ 
turned no answer to the first order ; to the second, 
asked by whose command ? “ The governor of 

Matarieh is here in person.” The Cavalier who 
has lived some time in Egypt, concluded that it 
was a ruse des Bedouins, for they are generally 
reputed robbers, and two were now on board our 
boat; held these two in surveillance, and crowded 
all sail; the two boats followed, and, notwithstand¬ 
ing our repeated threats to fire, still approached; 
fired across the bows of the nearest: “no bono” 
was the reply, “you have shot at the governor;” 
the boats sheered off and we pursued our course 
to the islet of Tennys, where we moored about 
four hours after midnight. At day-break, dis¬ 
covered two candjies, a broad red flag flying, and 
two swallow-tailed pennants “ the governor, really 


46 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


the governor” was the reiterated exclamation of 
the frightened shekh and crew; while we were 
disputing what ought to be done, two slaves from 
the governor’s boat came to ours with—provisions. 
—We now agreed that the English secretary should 
go and demand satisfaction for the conduct of 
Blackee; this was followed by the present of a live 
sheep (a peace-offering), the governor himself de¬ 
scended from his boat, and we went to meet him, 
told him that we came to desire that Blackee might 
be punished for his violence, the good old governor 
almost in tears replied “ I have punished him for 
daring to return without you, do you wish for his 
head—I have brought you bread and meat, and 
water from the Nile, and hearing that your boat was 
uncomfortable, there is a candjy at your service, 
and when at Cairo you mention this affair to the 
Pasha, set down nought in malice”.—Went on 
board the governor’s boat—coffee, sweetmeats, and 
pipes—returned to my own, found the slaves wait¬ 
ing for becksheesh. It is an insult to the master 
not to reward his servant, custom requires it to be 
done in gold, and at least to the full value of 
the present; one of the Bedouins seeing us at a 
loss, took the rag from his head, and offered us as 
much gold as we might desire.—The policy of the 
Pasha of Egypt induces him to show every atten¬ 
tion to Francs, and the governor of Matarieh was 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 47 

therefore afraid lest any complaint should be made 
against himself; the slave who knew his own power 
over his master had treated us as Turks ordinarily 
treat Christians; slaves in general have an ascen¬ 
dancy over their employers, and are not to be 
killed and stuffed for a museum ad libitum. 


48 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER VI. 

TENNYS-TOOMAH-TOMB OF A SHEKH—DEBBeE 

TMAI—JACKALLS-COSA-FA AND NON-FA-NIENTE—- 

RETROSPECT OF THE DELTA. 

Tennys has been thoroughly ransacked—the vir¬ 
tuosi have carried away every sign of its former 
grandeur, except a small cistern encrusted similarly 
to those of the “ Sette sale” at Rome. To the west 
is the island of Toomah, here is the burial place of 
a shekh—a small room hung with strings of wooden 
beads like a button-maker’s shop ; in the centre is 
a square frame covered with green cloth, on which 
is embroidered a text from the Koran. One of our 
boatmen who wears a long string of coarse beads 
round his neck, is said to be a priest: he entered 
this chamber uttering dismal yells, and then shut¬ 
ting his eyes, and reiterating “ Allah hu,” conti¬ 
nued walking round till I complained of the ear¬ 
ache, he then tore off a scrap of the cloth, gave it 
to me, and demanded becksheesh. 

Visited the mouth “ Debbee;” it is as impassable 
as that of the Bubastic branch, and is called the 
“ False Mouth”. 

Returned to Damietta.—Here we found Cosa-fa 
and Non-fa-niente. The note to the Consul at 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 49 

Rosetta was written on so small a piece of paper, 
that Cosa-fa thought it resembled too much an or¬ 
der for a bastonade to contain any good, and the 
poor fellow was afraid to go home; for had he re¬ 
turned without a certificate of my safety, he would 
havebeen imprisoned, andhadhenot also had a good 
character of himself, he would have been baston- 
aded. Such regulations, though a melancholy ne¬ 
cessity, are a restraint upon guides, and ensure the 
safety of the traveller: in the more dangerous parts 
it is by no means uncommon for a guide to leave 
his son in hostage for the traveller’s safety; the 
sins of the father are visited upon the children in 
many cases by the Turkish law. 

Gave up my design of navigating the Moez canal, 
on finding that it would cost ten additional days, and 
afford no gratification, we had already lost thirty to 
the same effect—renewed my engagement with Cosa- 
fa, taking care at the same time to provide myself 
with a bastonading stick, notwithstanding which, 
we have been six days on our voyage to this place, 
Boolac. It is but a cowardly thing to beat an Arab, 
they are so used to it. The English who complain 
so much of the want of liberty, have at least that 
of returning a blow. Among our delays, is to be 
reckoned a stoppage at Mansoura, for the purpose 
of visiting Tmai; the waters were unabated, and, 
with some difficulty, we procured a rude species 
of fen duck boat—three of us contrived to balance 


E 


50 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


ourselves in it, and leaving Mansoura at 12 o’clock, 
about half past four reached Tmai. But a few years 
since, here stood a temple, which, according to re¬ 
port, was one of the least injured and most beautiful 
in Egypt. What ought to have preserved it has caus¬ 
ed its destruction : it is now in worse condition than 
the temple at Beybait, there is scarcely a stone 
unturned and unbroken ; “ if gold be not concealed 
in them,” say the Arabs, “ why are the Francs at 
the trouble of visiting, and the expense of carrying 
away these stones.” Nearly sunset, and I still 
looking, but in vain, for any object that might sa¬ 
tisfy my labour and curiosity, when I was startled 
by most dismal cries, such as would have furnished 
entertainment to Herod, or the witches of Mac¬ 
beth. Running suddenly towards the spot whence 
the sound proceeded, I disconcerted an assembly 
of jackalls at their evening conversazione: their 
tones are the most unhappy variations of the dy¬ 
ing howl of a dog, and the amorous ditty of a 
cat. We again balanced ourselves in the canoe, 
and about two hours after midnight regained Man¬ 
soura, not only cold and tired, but having been 
for many hours wet to the skin, owing to the dew ; 
“ it droppeth like the gentle dew from heaven,” 
with a vengeance. 

Left Mansoura at day-light: arrived at the head 
of the Delta: the pyramids are seen, and the Mo- 
kattam range of mountains. The former do not sur- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 51 

prise me, even though I have not seen a hill since 
landing in Egypt—except dunghills; however, de¬ 
scriptions are seldom realized, and anticipation sel¬ 
dom gratified. 

The rocks of the Mokattam even please me—I 
have grown tired of the everlasting fertility of the 
Delta: spring would be tiresome were it always 
spring; the voyage upon the whole is wearisome ; 
the best part of it is—the end. The evils of a 
small boat preponderate heavily against the advan¬ 
tages of it, especially as I forgot to hoist a flag j 
being therefore taken for fellahs, soldiers more than 
once insisted upon a passage to Cairo, under threat 
of firing into us ; but excepting the one case men¬ 
tioned, I paid no attention to them. Even our 
boatmen were tired of then agreement; Non-fa- 
niente used very frequently to complain that he slept 
like a dog—and so he did, very like a dog, and did 
very little else; nor would he let the boat do any 
thing at the prescribed times of prayer, for which 
purpose he always went on shore; he bows his head 
to the earth four times at sun-rise, the same at mid¬ 
day, the same at 4 p. m. five times at sun-set, and 
six half an hour afterwards, with the most scru¬ 
pulous care turning himself towards the tomb of 
the Prophet. Cosa-fa thinks more of temporal con¬ 
cerns ; he has lately bought a second wife, and, 
not content with two wives, intends purchasing a 
slave ; upon my asking him, in the event of the 
e 2 


52 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

slave proving a mother, whether the child also 
would be a slave? He answered, “No. Even 
you Christians do not sell your children, do you ?” 
“ No ; but some of you Africans do.” The Eng¬ 
lish used to export their own children as slaves, 
but are now making reparation to human nature. 
Cosa-fa, in addition to his two wives, has the mis¬ 
fortune to be afflicted with the ophthalmia \ he 
takes snuff in abundance, and thus he endeavours 
to clear one sense by stopping up another. Though 
he does reckon upon the purchase of a slave, he is 
averse to the labour that is to procure the means 
of payment; he contrasts the cold night-dew with 
his two wives, and frequently bursts out with the 
exclamation, “ I have eighteen dollars, what do I 
want with a thousand ?” I, however, do not allow 
him to be lazy, though he does speak the sentiment 
of a lazaroni. He does give, upon occasion, proofs 
of industry; he can use the fingers of his feet, as 
well, in some things, as those of his hands—he as¬ 
sists himself with either in ascending the mast—he 
holds the tiller with one foot, and a rope with the 
other—by this oeconomy he can take snuff at plea¬ 
sure, and lends a hand to his pipe, which is too short 
to support itself upon the ground. His second wife 
cost him ten dollars, and he married her without the 
ceremony of wooing. Having a certain sum of mo¬ 
ney to spare, he desired an old match-maker to go 
in search of the most elegible female to be found at 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 58 

his price. (I need scarcely add, that the match-maker 
is a woman ; women only are allowed to associate 
with women in this country.) He was then introduc¬ 
ed, and, on approbation on his side, the ceremony 
soon took place; the ten dollars that he paid are ex¬ 
pended in a wardrobe and household furniture ; and 
should his wife not be—“as women wish to be—who 
love their lords,” he has the option of returning her, 
paying with her a certain sum as per agreement.— 
I know not whether in England, in the system of 
huddling, money is paid upon taking a wife upon 
trial. Marriage, which is in all respects a private 
contract, may in Turkey be entered into for a limited 
time , it is then called “ Keebin”. Gosa-fa was also 
doctor—the dews of lower Egypt, which often last 
till ten o’clock in the morning as substantial as a 
London fog, occasioned to me a complaint common 
and dangerous in this country—and of which poor 
Burckhardt died: restricted to rice boiled, and a 
little burnt oil in it, I was cured in three days. Pro¬ 
visions not exorbitant—a sheep or a goat, three or 
four shillings—a capon three-pencfe—a pigeon one 
half-penny—lemons eighty for six-pence, and eggs 
three-pence per hundred—the people complain bit¬ 
terly of the taxes, eggs were lately only one penny 
per hundred. I generally walked the day’s journey 
shooting—my boatmen would never eat of a bird 
that fell dead to the gun $ but if it chanced that 
a bird was wounded, one of them would run up, 
wring the head off, and bleed it. The Jews in 


54 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


London are as particular in this delicate inconve¬ 
nience, enjoined by the Levitical law. In my 
shooting excursions I could never find a stone or 
pebble—the country is a lump of mud, and such 
is the fertility of the alluvial deposit, that manure 
and cultivation are scarcely required—the dung is 
carefully collected—formed into cakes—stuck 
against the cabins—dried in the sun, and transport¬ 
ed to Cairo for the use of the ovens : it answers the 
purpose of turf—wood is very scarce. A village of 
the Delta, seen at a little distance, always remind¬ 
ed me of Caracalla’s baths; but upon closer inspec¬ 
tion, it would seem as if a large mud barrack had 
been erected, and then thrown down pro bono publi¬ 
co ; those who could get four-sided rooms are better 
off than the generality, and even in these the aper¬ 
tures for doors and windows are but roughly kicked 
through—there is scarcely a house too high to be 
overlooked by an English grenadier,—excepting 
officers and the grenadier guards. The necessary 
furniture is comprised in coffee-pot, cups, water 
jars, a mat, and two stones for pounding corn. The 
fellah, or labourer, wears a frock, like our husband¬ 
men : the women are half clothed in a blue gar¬ 
ment, which is left open in front, as if proud of 
showing their necks ; a blue ’kerchief is thrown 
over the head and held by the teeth—invariably 
masked—eye-let holes being cut after the fashion 
of the Venetian domino. It is easy to perceive that 
the circumference of the eye is tattooed with blue 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 55 

—the veil is wrongly applied. Surely the faces of 
these blue devils are not so unseemly as their eter¬ 
nal necks : not content with be-blueing their eyes, 
they be-orange their nails with henneli—wallnut 
skin juice would give nearly the same colour : not 
ashamed of showing their necks—to be seen with¬ 
out a veil would be to forfeit every claim to respect. 
Little girls in England are commanded not to 
show their ancles—there are full grown naked beau¬ 
ties who scarcely hide any thing else—the greatest 
compliment that can be paid to a woman, is toad- 
dress to her the word “ Mustoor—Oh ! you veiled 
one;”—the veils are generally ornamented with 
gold or silver pieces of money, which are perfo¬ 
rated and fastened at the edges—the person of a 
woman is sacred—the men spin—the women fetch 
water from the river, which they carry in large jars 
upon the head—they rinse them scrupulously, and 
immediately afterwards fill them at the very spot 
while they are standing up to their knees in mud, 
and while other people are washing—it reminds 
me of Anstey in the “New Bath Guide”, speaking 
of the pump, he says, “ and while little Tabby was 
washing her,” &c.—the women cross the deep wa¬ 
ters on the backs of buffaloes—the Picture of Eu- 
ropa, by Reubens, in the Campidoglio is never to 
be forgotten, but in that , the heroine has a breast 
divine. 


56 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER VII. 

CAIRO-THE NAME-THE TOWN—PALACE—JOSEPH^ 

WELL-DIVAN— JOSEPH^ ASYLUM-MATARIEH- 

HELIOPOLIS-A MOSQUE-LAMENTATIONS-IN¬ 

TRODUCTION TO THE PASHA. 

Boolac —day-break, and I am still two miles dis¬ 
tant from the capital of Egypt, “ The Grand Cairo.” 
Let me have a hackney coach: “Si Signore, Sig¬ 
nore si,” resounded from a crowd of Faccliini, and 
donkeys were immediately brought. Is there no¬ 
thing else to be had? yes—camels—but neither 
without some trouble. The camelliers and assi- 
niers commence fighting for the base lucre of a few 
paras, half farthings—they fight so well for these 
that they deserve encouragement. At length, mid 
the show' of camels and donkeys, of the two evils 
I choose the least. My luggage is carried to the 
custom-house. The Turks are sufficiently enlight¬ 
ened to have custom-houses. Arrived at Cairo a 
Janissary is sent to pass my trunks and to protect 
the boatmen—Cosa-fa is terribly afraid lest any sol¬ 
dier should take a fancy to his bark, and carry him 
still farther from his two wives. 

Cairo is known by those to whom it belongs by 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 57 

the name of “ Mesr” only, formerly written “ Mesr 
el Kahira,”—Kahira* a Saracen queen. Mesr is 
also applied to the whole country. Mesraim, grand¬ 
son of Noah—Egypt—iEgyptus—see Quaresmius. 
There is no species of mistakes so common, at the 
same time almost unavoidable, and almost inexcus¬ 
able, as that which attends the names of places. 
Every nation adopts its own method of either writ¬ 
ing, or of pronouncing the name of any place, 
especially if of consequence. The capital of France 
is the same to an Englishman and Frenchman in 
writing ; but an Englishman travelling in that coun¬ 
try would never find his way to Paris if he used his 
own pronounciation. A Frenchman neither writes 
nor pronounces the word London . Constantinople 
is called Estambol, because the Greeks, speaking of 
going to their principal town, use the expression 
“ g ig rrjv roXiv.” London, for the same reason, would 
be called “town.” 

The epithet, “ Grand,” was applied to Cairo on 
account of its extent and magnificence, because that 
in the time of Mahommed it was considered a day’s 
journey to traverse the city—but now an hour is 
sufficient. “Its magnificence excited a smile” in 

* Caer is the Saxon word for town : Cair Lundein, London— 
Cair Kent, Canterbury—Cair Went, Winchester—In Hebrew, 
Kiriath Arba, City of Arba—Kiriath Sepher, City of Books 
—An. Sellerus—T he Phoenician name of Carthage was Cartha 
Hadath, or Cartha Hadtha, the new City,—C hateaub. 


58 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


those days, and 7io'w “ two different causes the same 
effect may give.” The streets, if such they can be 
called, seldom exceed two yards in width, they ap¬ 
pear always full of people; but the plague spreads 
by contact, and if the accounts of its ravages are 
true, where does this vast and fearless population 
come from? The Pasha has a carriage, a cardinal’s 
at second-hand, similar to our Lord Mayor’s wag¬ 
gon. How fortunate it is that there are not two 
carriages in Egypt, I know of only one street so 
wide as Cranbourn Alley. Franc street has a strong 
gate fastened every night; it resisted the attempts 
of the Albanian soldiery in their last insurrection— 
such gates are frequent throughout the city, so that 
in the event of a riot the insurgents are easily trap¬ 
ped. Three inns—one has a garden, convenient in 
the plague season. The citadel is at the extremity of 
the town, at the foot of the Mokattam mountains 
— is commanded by a modern fortress — and that 
again by a neighbouring height. On dit that the 
French, besieging it, planted their cannon on the 
nearest mosque—the Mussulmans would not fire 
at their place of worship—they make a virtue of 
— surrendering . 

The Pasha lives occasionally in the citadel—and 
hie et ubique : nobody knows where that is—he 
moves from one place to another without form or 
notice ;—the same is told of all tyrants. 

The palace—a small court-yard—a room en- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 59 

crusted with marble is fitted up as a bath : a foun¬ 
tain of cold water plays constantly in the centre— 
a cascade of warm falls over rocks and shells into a 
reservoir. The bath is the luxury of the East, and 
more necessary there than carriages and plate with 
us. The principal room is of fair proportions, but 
not remarkable for any thing else, except an old 
English kitchen clock—the furniture is limited to 
a carpet and settee ; the carpet does not cover the 
whole floor. A space is left as a shoe-hole, for all 
shoes must be taken off at entering—the Turk sits 
upon his carpet. Pictures are not allowed by the 
Mohammedan law—at least nothing so idolatrous 
as the likeness of any thing that breathes in the 
heaven above, nor on the earth, nor in the water— 
in lieu of pictures, texts from the Koran are fram¬ 
ed and glazed* ; they are considered to increase in 
beauty according to the quantity of flourishes and 
illuminations that adorn them, which, like the illus¬ 
trations of learned commentators, puzzle the reader. 
Considering how many enigmatical flourishes are 
interspersed among the letters before us, and how 
few people are able to read even plain text, these 
must be really beautiful—an Arabic scholar with me 
decyphered one only. To complete the appearance 


* The Greeks and Armenians adorn their churches with Pic¬ 
tures—the Roman Catholics with images; is it unnatural that 
the Turks should consider them idolaters? What would they think 
of our statues erected to men celebrated (in general) for destroying. 


60 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


of unfurnished lodgings, pen and ink are wanting: 
this is the more extraordinary, as the Viceroy has 
lately learnt to sign his name, Mohammed Aly.— 
The Levantine that can write, seldom fails to show 
his learning—in general he exhibits a pen and ink 
in his bosom, like a tax-gatherer, and seems as proud 
of the order of the inkstand, as a member of the 
“ Legion d’honneur ” is of an inch of riband, or a 
youth is of a medal that he has earned in fighting 
against—his will. One of the charges against the 
masters of the mint, who were lately hung at Con¬ 
stantinople, was the expensiveness of their ink- 
stands : they were ornamented with brilliants—but 
the accomplishment of being able to write does 
not obtain among Turks, in their days of ignorance, 
4( the benefit of clergy.” 

The well of Joseph,—Yussuf—is creusee in 
the rock of the citadel to the depth of 280 feet 
—a cow is stationed half way down, and draws the 
water from the bottom by a line of pots, another 
cow at the surface draws the water to the top by 
similar means. 

Joseph’s palace —alias hall —alias divan— alias 
granary, a ruined saloon, containing thirty-two well 
proportioned columns of red granite, four feet dia¬ 
meter—the view hence commands the town, ceme¬ 
teries, river, and pyramids. 

Small Copt monastery at Old Cairo, the vault un¬ 
der it .is called “ Joseph’s Asylum.”—Here, so the 


THE OASIS BO-ftlS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. Ol 

monk informs us, Joseph, Mary, and our Saviour took 
refuge, when flying from Herod: three recesses in 
the rock are pointed out as their respective couches 
—this lodgment is at present only knee-deep in wa¬ 
ter, because the Nile is falling. The monks of this 
place used formerly to exhibit a nail and a plank 
of Noah’s ark, and to point out the identical spot 
where Moses was found in the rushes. 

The monument of the gallant Kleber is destroy¬ 
ed, the mound on which his murderer was impaled 
at the moment that the corpse was borne by, is still 
pointed out. 

Among the dilapidations of the suburbs live the 
female outcasts of day-light society—the word for¬ 
nication might be aptly derived from such places of 
abode—the caves whence the term is derived are 
said to be in Arabia—women of character no longer 
dubious are prohibited residing within the town. 
What effect would such a law have on the popula¬ 
tion of London ? 

Matarieh—Heliopolis, five miles from Cairo, re¬ 
mains one obelise, partner of that which stands at 
Rome, on Monte Citorio. Returning to citadel, 
visited a large dilapidated mosque : fountains and 
columns, without taste or order, form the use and 
ornaments of a mosque. There was nobody at prayer 
—a stage without actors. The minaret resem¬ 
bles a fantastic chimney, or a light-house. In lieu 
of bells, for bells are an abomination to the Turks, 


62 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


is a plank suspended, which is beaten witli two 
wooden mallets—the clerk calls the Mussulmans to 
prayer, telling them, “ ’tis a wicked world, ’tis a 
wicked world.” This summons is echoed from 
minaret to minaret, and is obeyed—Mohammedans, 
Jews, Catholics, Greeks, Ghebers, Brachmins are 
more observant of “ outward forms,” than Protest¬ 
ants, especially those of the “English religion.” 
Christians, Jews, and Mohammedans have distinct 
sabbaths as well as forms of worship : Friday is the 
sabbath of the latter. 

Passing on the sabbath evening, near the cemete¬ 
ries of the lower classes, I was startled by howls and 
lamentations—at first conceived that it might be a 
second edition of the jackalls of Tmai,or the accom¬ 
paniment of a funeral, at that moment taking place; 
but found upon enquiry that the sounds were hu¬ 
man, that the parties who were the innocent causes 
of so much noise had been dead, perhaps a week, 
perhaps a year, and that the mourners were howl¬ 
ing over—any body when paid for it. The stench 
arising at this, the hour of dewfall, is intolerable, 
and, together with the imitations of the jackalls, 
would have assisted Lucretius in his description of 
a plague. The mourners are females, who sell their 
tears as a monk does his prayers. The simple cus¬ 
tom of strewing a friend’s grave with flowers is at 
once more pleasing and more respectful. 

Introduction to the Pasha—he received us in the 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 63 

court-yard—seated on a sofa, and wielding a pipe 
—dressed like a private individual, as Turks of real 
consequence generally are, excepting on gala days. 
The Turk, like the English gentleman of thirty 
years ago, has economically transferred the gold 
lace from his own waistcoat to that of his servant. 
The Vice-consul and myself sat down on the sofa 
with him. Pipes are not offered, except to equals. 
Coffee served up — no sugar — even though the 
Pasha himself has a manufactory of that article : 
however, sugar does spoil coffee. The attendants 
ordered to withdraw—no pride, no affectation, even 
though the Pasha is of low origin: a common case 
in Turkey. Remained nearly an hour discoursing 
on English horses, military force, the emerald mines 
at Cosseir, his son’s victory over the Wahabees *, 
and his expected triumphal entry.—Having taken 
leave, we were surrounded by all the officers of the 
court, whispering “ becksheesh !”—referred these 
state beggars to the dragoman, who, I believe, 
sent them empty away. 

The Pasha has a vulgar low-born face, but an 
eye, dark, commanding, and intelligent, like that 
of the reigning king of Sweden, and of many who 
have risen from nothing. He was once a private 
soldier—the Turkish soldier fights individually— 
individual merit is noticed and rewarded—kill, 
burn, and destroy, is the passport to wealth and 
* See Anastasius. 


64 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


p 0wer —the individual bravery of an Englishman 
“ in line’’ will procure at most a medal, and that 
is for his commander. Conscience never opposes 
a Turk’s ambition. The treachery of the Pasha is 
well known ; but it may also be added, that it was 
on the sabbath day when he invited the Mamelukes 
to the citadel, and massacred them. Amyne Bey is 
the only one that escaped—his horse leapt over the 
parapet, like leaping out of a four pair of stairs 
window. The horse was killed—the Bey entrust¬ 
ed himself to some Arabs, who, notwithstanding 
the offer of a large reward, would not deliver him 
up. The faith of an Arab is considered inviolable 
—a Turk has none. This instance of murder is 
by no means unique. Ex. gr. Chapwan Oglu, &c. 
The Pasha is a merchant, he monopolises the pro¬ 
duce of the whole country. Money is the idol of 
a Mohammedan; and the Turk, so far from con¬ 
ceiving that a “ a rich man cannot enter into the 
kingdom of Heaven,” says, or is said to say, “ the 
richer that a man dies, the nearer will be his seat 
to that of the Prophet.” The elder son of the 
Pasha used to complain of the taxes; he was in 
consequence very popular with the radicals—he 
died suddenly, most probably of the plague: how¬ 
ever, as state murders are more frequent in Turkey 
than elsewhere—report is very busy with the re¬ 
putation of his father.—Distinguish between Turk¬ 
ish and Roman infanticide. 


tttE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAl, ETC. 65 

Ibrahim Pasha, second son of the viceroy, has 
lately dismissed his purse-bearer, and delivered his 
treasury to the care of a Christian* “ because that 
if a Mohammedan should break his trust, he could 
be only cashiered, but should a Christian wrong 
him in the ‘ division of the twentieth part of one 
poor scruple,’ he should be deprived of his eyes, 
and nobody would exclaim against that.” A fellah 
found a quantity of old silver, which he carried to 
Ibrahim, in expectation of a great and honourable 
reward. Ibrahim put him to the torture (baston- 
ade) to ascertain if the unfortunate finder had con¬ 
cealed any. This is the Turkish method of pur¬ 
chasing a seat in Heaven, near the Prophet. 


F 


66 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA; 


CHAPTER VIII. 

CAIRO-REVIEW-TRIUMPHAL ENTRY OF IBRAHIM 

PASHA-CARAVAN FROM MECCA-CEMETERIES— 

ALMAH-PYRAMIDS. 

Saw the infantry (Albanians) mustered. An at¬ 
tempt to drill these lawless ragamuffins occasioned 
the last insurrection—no marching and counter¬ 
marching, no playing at soldiers \ they, however,, 
suffer themselves to be drawn up in line to listen 
to the music, if such it may be called, when pro¬ 
duced by drums and squeaking Moorish fifes in the 
hands of Turks \ a number of voices frequently 
chimed in, and destroyed the monotony; during 
this the soldiers were quiet; so much for the power 
of even such music over Albanians—the music of 
Orpheus made brutes to dance. At length there 
came a mighty voice from the castle window, “ The 
sultan wishes health and fortune to you allthis 
was answered, on the part of the soldiers, by a si¬ 
multaneous inclination of the head, dropping first 
on the right shoulder then on the left—the head 
of a Turkish subject is very loose. It is nearly im¬ 
possible to distinguish officers from privates ; every 
man provides himself with clothes and arms, ac¬ 
cording to his means; the jackets of some of the 


Trf£ OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 67 

private soldiers are worth fifty sheep each—others 
are scarcely worth sixpence: there is only this fa¬ 
mily likeness among them, that pistols, sword, and 
a shirt, outwardly exhibited, are necessary; these 
peculiarities remind me of the Highland costume, 
but the national character is as dissimilar as the cli¬ 
mate. An Albanian is not improved since the time 
of Alexander; he is a soldier and a robber; he 
transfers his services from one master to another at 
option, his price is by the month about fifteen shil¬ 
lings : not that he is “ shot at for sixpence a-day,” 
—he seldom waits for that. 

A messenger is arrived from Constantinople, he 
comes for becksheesh ; about 250,000/. is paid an¬ 
nually to the Porte as tax, and about the same sum 
given as becksheesh. A messenger from the Gran 
Signor is seldom welcome ; he is sometimes an exe¬ 
cutioner, who stabs the devoted victim while offer¬ 
ing him a firman, which purports to invest him with 
some new dignity : the argument is, “ if you are 
a subject, submit to death; if not, you are a rebel-^- 
die” 

Ibrahim Pasha having, as he says, conquered 
the Wahabi, made his triumphal entry this morn¬ 
ing, First came the cavalry; horses of all sizes, 
ages, qualities, and colours j an Arab fellah attend¬ 
ant upon each soldier carried a musket, every sol¬ 
dier carried a—pipe ; occasionally the prelude of a 
kettle-drum, hammered monotonously with a short 

F 2 


68 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


leather strap, announced a person of consecjuenceI 
the consequence consisted in eight or nine dirty 
Arabs, carrying long sticks, and screaming tumul¬ 
tuously. Then came the infantry, along straggling 
line of Albanians; then a flag; then a long pole, 
surmounted by a gilt ball; from this suspended a 
flowing tail of horse hair; then a second flag, a 
second tail, a third flag, and the Pasha’s third tail; 
the victor—covered with a white satin gown, and a 
high conical cap of the same military material: tins 
Caesar looked like a sick girl coming from the bath ; 
another tail, and a little boy on horseback—the 
fatherless grandson of the viceroy ; a Pasha of one 
tail: the mobility closed this Hudibrastic triumph. 
Having traversed the town, they vented their ex¬ 
ultation in gunpowder; the Turkish soldiers, whe¬ 
ther in fun or earnest, always fire with ball; and, 
on a day of rejoicing, it commonly happens that 
several are killed; these accidents fall in general on 
Francs; but Ibrahim Pasha was himself once 
wounded in this manner. We did not venture be¬ 
yond the city gates ; even at the spot where we 
remained concealed, we saw two men borne by, 
and a hat wantonly threatened. The origin of the 
tail is this ; the Turks being discomfited in an en¬ 
gagement, and having lost their flag, a chieftain cut 
off his horse’s tail, and rallying the troops, fixed it 
on his spear—victory of course followed. The 
Turks have also the flag of the Prophet, which is 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 69 

used only on very great occasions, as the ark was 
by the children of Israel. 

Went to meet the caravan returning from Mecca; 
a line of camels stretches along the desert, as far as 
the eye can distinguish ; the great body of the pil¬ 
grims will arrive to-morrow ; but a light heart has 
more speed than four such feet as a camel’s, and 
many have already reached their homes. Detached 
parties, with dags and drums, sally out of the town 
to meet their friends; women, seated by the way- 
side, welcome the pilgrims with a very shrill, but 
harmonious, note*. I believe these women are the 
same that sell their sorrow in the cemeteries; these 
notes of joy are occasionally contrasted by unbought 
grief; among many instances, I saw a wretched wo¬ 
man throw herself in the camel’s path, “ her only 
child, her fatherless son was dead.” The camels 
are fitted up for the accommodation of more than 
one, not with elephantine castles, but strong cages 
made of the palm leaf; these panniers are covered 
with silk, or humbler materials: there are even pil¬ 
grims who travel with their suite en prince ,—every 
Mussulman “must do, to be saved,” a journey to 
Mecca. The laborious part of this forehand punish¬ 
ment falls on poor innocent camels, horses, mules, 
and asses; bigotry carries many also through the 
journey on foot; offerings are sent to Saint Moham- 

* More difficult of imitation, but less pleasing than the Swiss 
note in the Ranz des Vaches. 


70 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


med annually from the principal towns of the be¬ 
lievers ; the sacrifice from Cairo is a carpet; the 
camel that bears this tax upon Faith is deemed 
sacred, and is ever after useless. 

Joined the throng early this morning, and hav¬ 
ing waited due time, beheld the grand cortege . The 
sacred camel carries a small tent, in which had been 
enclosed the devoted carpet: it is also covered with 
a green cloth, embroidered with Arabic characters, 
only to touch the hem of which seems the utmost 
desire of those who have not been to Mecca. On the 
other hand, there is manifested a wish to preserve 
it from pollution: the latter is expressed by cud¬ 
gels, which are wielded about in every direction, 
the dexterity of one party, and the devotedness of 
the other, are equally admirable: the sulky animal 
paces onward unconscious of its dignity and un¬ 
moved by the music and other discordant noises. 
Immediately following this camel comes one on 
which is a naked man; I imagined that he was a 
sample of the conquered Wahabi, but was told by 
one person that he is a saint, and by another that 
he is a fool: they both agree, however, that a saint 
and a fool in the Turkish persuasion is the same 
thing. He was strapped securely to the saddle, but 
managed to distort all that part of his body which 
was at liberty into inconceivable positions: by this 
it was said that he was possessed of God:—now * 

* In the transfiguration. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC* 71 

he possessed of the devil, as depicted by Raphael, 
is not half so horrible. No oracle is produced by 
this inspiration, for a Turkish saint is supposed to 
have neither speech nor sense; in lieu thereof he 
has free admission to all harems, and every 6hild 
of which he may be the father, is considered an 
honour—Gibbon praises the simplicity of Moham¬ 
medan institutions.—Among the most conspicuous 
and most welcome of the party were two greasy 
wrestlers, naked, except a pair of leather inex¬ 
pressibles, which together with their skins, were 
smeared with anti-attrition. 

The cemeteries form a novel and not unpleas¬ 
ing appearance, the desert is studded with tombs, 
mosks, and mausolea. These mansions of the dead 
would be preferable to the habitations of the liv¬ 
ing, were it not that the air is polluted ; for no¬ 
thing disturbs the solitude, except on a Friday, 
when the houses of mourning resound with the 
ululu of Cairine women. As every Turk through¬ 
out the empire, from the Gran Signor downwards, 
is compelled to be of some profession, and as every 
profession is distinguished by its peculiar head¬ 
dress, and the head-dress of the defunct is always 
represented upon a staff at the head of the corpse, 
a Turkish necropolis presents a singular appear¬ 
ance. In many of the sepultures, fancy is displayed: 
one reminded me of that of Abelard and Eloisa at 
Paris, but how different is the garden of Pere-la- 


7$ A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

chaise! Here no corpse is buried where vegetation 
can live, the air itself is pestiferous, and all is death 
and desolation. The tombs of the Mamelukes are 
going fast to decay; their boasted magnificence is 
limited to a gilt inscription. The handsomest (if 
that term maybe applied) monument in this West* 
minster Abbey, is that of the Pasha’s son; the ma¬ 
terials of it have evidently served at least two 
purposes; it is built of small thin slabs of stone, 
painted and covered with a gilt inscription ; at the 
head is erected a staff bearing a Pashalic turban, 
and at the foot another with inscription : the whole 
is thought of such consequence as to be enclosed 
in a wire safe . At the side is spread a carpet for the 
accommodation of those who may choose to pray 
or weep. The dragoman of Mr. Grey who had 
served six years under him, felt inclined to exhibit 
the latter part of the ceremony; he attributes his 
death to the plague. 

Among the vulgar reports, I ought perhaps to 
say errors, is one relating to the manufacture of 
poison. The manufacturers kidnap their victims, 
compel them to swallow milk, suspend them by 
their heels over a slow fire, and cudgel them to 
death; the foam produced by the dying wretch 
is the poison required.—This recalls to mind the 
Italian “ Aqua Toffana, a poison prepared from the 
foam of men driven to madness.” The orthodox 
mode of administering it is in coffee; but there is also 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 78 

an ingenious story concerning a mantle—the Turk¬ 
ish mantle fits close to the skin round the neck ; 
it is frequently edged with gold lace.—In this story 
the edge w r as roughened and imbued with poison; 
and thus the mantle, like that of Nessus, caused 
death to the wearer. 

Cairo is nearly surrounded by rising mountains, 
a chain of hills formed by rubbish. Monte Testa- 
cio, the wonder of Rome, is reduced to credibility, 
and, by comparison, to - nothing. 

A-party of soldiers meet a man driving donkeys, 
each soldier chooses for himself and goes his way, 
the poor Arab, who has already been punished for 
resisting, knows not which to follow. 

Invited by Signor --to see the almah, or danc¬ 

ing girls—females who contribute to the happiness 
of many. Entering the room I was struck with the 
magnificent appearance of some Levantine ladies 
—robes of crimson velvet, beautifully embroidered 
with gold, small red caps crested with brilliants.— 
The almah, seven in number, were seated cross- 
legged in the divan or bay window, veiled like mo¬ 
dest women, gowns blue, a shawl, also girded round 
them; their hair, plaited into thirty or forty cords 
ornamented with gold beads and money, hanging 
down their backs. The master of the ceremonies 
gave out a song, line by line, which was caught up 
by one, two, or more voices—repeated in full cho¬ 
rus, and occasionally were added the sounds of a 


74 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


small drum and tambourine; the whole was an 
excellent caricature upon the clerk and orchestra 
of a country church. The Levantines, ladies in 
particular, who understood the words of love, were 
in perfect ecstasies. The master of the ceremo¬ 
nies frequently made the tour of the room, demand¬ 
ing “ becksheesh.” On the receipt of every half- 
crown, he handed it to the lady in waiting, offer¬ 
ing up a song in praise of the liberal donor, whose 
gift, in lieu of being stated at five piastres, is multi¬ 
plied into two or three thousand paras (half far¬ 
things)—the notes of exultation that follow every 
largess are dreadful. About ten o’clock we quitted 
this harmonic society for the supper table, the la¬ 
dies preferred remaining where they were. At our 
return we found the castagnets produced, and the 
almah, having overcome all imaginary scruples, and 
sufficiently stimulated their courage by songs and 
brandy, were prepared to dance. The perfection 
of the art consists in the greatest variety of mo¬ 
tions, with heaven in the eye, and in every ges¬ 
ture, not dignity, but love; at the same time to 
advance slowly without raising the foot towards the 
object of—becksheesh. Nothing can be so inde¬ 
cent as the dancing of the almah, except that of the 
modest women (Levantine modesty)—La Signora 
-locked the door against her husband, and be¬ 
came herself the “ Prima Ballarinathe palm of 
merit was, however, for some time disputed by a 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 7 5 

lady and her unmarried daughter, but at length was 
given by acclamation. It was four o’clock in the 
morning ere I left the Bacchanalians; the ladies 
seemed inclined to persevere till now. The cere¬ 
mony of demanding becksheesh is very often re¬ 
peated, the principal set of almah will not furnish 
an evening’s entertainment for less than two or three 
thousand piastres; they consider themselves in 
their way, very Catalanis. The almah and the 
bath constitute the supreme delight and expense in 
the harems of the rich. 

The pyramids (of Ghiseh) seen from Cairo ap¬ 
pear to be about an hour distant. 

First December, Mr. George F. Grey of Univer¬ 
sity College, and myself with our interpreter hired 
donkeys, and rode to old Cairo. Here we put our a- 
nimals on board the ferry-boat; the Nile having now 
so far diminished, that it was impracticable to pro¬ 
ceed by water to the pyramids, and not sufficiently 
so to allow a passage by land, we contrived to ascend 
the stream nearly to Sacchara. As we approached 
the object of our curiosity 44 what do you think of 
these wonders of the world?” was the question 
constantly bandied between Grey and myself, to 
which came the invariable reply “nothing more than 
a pile of bricks.” We arrive at the sphinx which is 
within five hundred yards of the pyramid, and our 
opinion remains unaltered. The sphinx has been 
lately found to be a perfect figure, formed of the liv- 


76 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

ing rock. The sand has again accumulated, only 
the head, neck, and outline of the back, as hereto¬ 
fore, are now visible : we are by this time surround¬ 
ed by a dozen Arabs, who insist upon being our 
guides; their civility is not owing to their strength, 
—had we been unarmed they would not have been 
at so much trouble to obtain our money. Arrived 
within a hundred paces of the monument of Cheops, 
we at length acknowlege that it is “ one of the won¬ 
ders of the world.” There being no neighbouring 
object with which to compare it, we had hitherto 
had no scale whereby to judge of its height; we 
were also till now deceived by the purity of the at¬ 
mosphere, the upper gradations being as distinctly 
visible as the upper layers of a pile of bricks ; it is 
for the same reason that the Ball of Saint Peter’s, 
being more clearly defined than that of Saint Paul’s 
seems to be nearer to the earth. On approach I find 
that the first step is in height even with my chest, 
and in length represents a trottoir to no inconsider¬ 
able* street; these steps seem numberless and im¬ 
measurable ; the point to which they rise, appears 
in some degree, the illusive effect of distance rather 
than reality of form; and the whole recalls the 
idea of Titans raising a scaling ladder against Hea¬ 
ven. The excellent description by Denon of this 
the largest pyramid in the world, renders further 

* This step about equals in length the longest unbroken street 
in London (South Holton Street). 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 77 

observations almost unnecessary; the names of 
travellers scratched at the entrance bear evidence 
against as many visitors a3 have made their marks 
at Hugoumont.* The first gallery + inclines in¬ 
wards; the second gallery slopes upwards; the 
angle is filled by a block of granite which the ar¬ 
chitect had hoped would close the passage for ever: 
this block has hitherto remained immoveable and 
impervious—not impassable.—I have ventured to 
remind the reader of this, because there is between 
this barrier and the chambers of the dead, a small 
shaft which has obtained the name of “ the well,” 
a recent traveller assures us that having dropped 
a stone he heard it fall into water! Truth, how¬ 
ever, does not lie at the bottom of that well. The 
passage descends into the live rock, and commu¬ 
nicates with a spacious half-formed chamber (50 
by 30 feet), in the corner of which is a short pass¬ 
age leading toward the sphinx; this is, however, 
unfinished ; but there may be yet another which 
(though unknown) did conduct to the abodes of 
the priests: upon this hypothesis the riddle of the 
well is solved.—It would have been a pity that the 
treasures in all probability deposited with the royal 
corpse should have remained useless.—I ascended 
“ the well;” it is as narrow, dirty, and difficult as a 
chimney; fingers, toes, back, shoulders, and elbows 

* Hugoumont, the focus of battle at Waterloo. 

t See plan by Denon. 


78 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NtJBIA, 

are absolutely necessary; eyes, mouth, and nose arc* 
inconvenient; the death-cold bats were perpetually 
flying against my candle and my face ; these horrid 
little animals are celebrated by the French savants, 
and the only recompense for my trouble was to 
put some of them in my pocket. The stone sarco¬ 
phagus # still remains in the king’s chamber ; it is 
by its height and width just admissible into the 
first gallery (5 feet 6 inches by 4 feet 3 inches). 
Breathe the air of heaven once more; mount the 
pyramid; resolve to wait here till sunrise. The 
Arabs bring up our supper and mattresses: this is 
but a slight proof of the difficulty of ascent, which 
some are taught to believe is a labour almost equal 
to the raising the pile. Very anxious for morning; 
too cold to close my eyes. I had fully intended 
to have dreamt of Jacob’s dream. Six o’clock, a. m. 
thermometer 49°; last evening at sunset 62°; a 
difference of thirteen degrees, and a night’s con¬ 
tinuation of that deficiency is sensibly felt by one 
whose blood has been parboiled during the day;—I 
had at first been surprised that the birds of Egypt 
are thickly feathered. The top of this pyramid 

* It is a vulgar error to call a body-preserver by the name of 
the place or vault where bodies naturally corrode. Quick-lime, 
or stones of such property may have been used for coffins, but not 
by Egyptians. The Egyptians built sepulchres with greater 
care and expense than they did houses: the former they called 
everlasting habitations —the latter they denominated inns. 


The oasts bceris, mount sinai, etc. 79 

presents an area 11 yards square; drawing a line 
S3 feet, and allowing about two feet either way 
for the decreasing step, we may conjecture that 
eight or nine layers of stone have been thrown 
down. The stone whose turn is next is from four 
to five feet square these steps are 202 in number, 
and in height vary from 1 to 4 feet 8 inches *. 
Gemelli (giro del mondo) 127 years past gives the 
number of steps 208, height 520, surface of top 
1 6 feet 8 inches square. To ascend occupied us 
twenty minutes, to descend fifteen. The quantity 
of stone used in this pyramid is estimated at “ six 
millions of tons, which is just three times that of the 
vast breakwater thrown across Plymouth Sound.” 
The same material which has now failed to preserve 
even a pinch of the founder’s dust, if properly em¬ 
ployed, might have saved the realm : a hundred 
thousand men were employed twenty years in rais¬ 
ing this fabrict, and the king prostituted his daugh¬ 
ter t to defray the expense. Such w r ere the means 
of erecting a building, whose perfection defeated its 


* See Davison in Walpole—206 steps—base 746 feet square, 
height 460 feet 11 inches. 

+ Said by Josephus to have been built by the Jews: to the 
Jews also are attributed the “ Walls of Babylon,” and even the 
Colisaeum by some accounts. 

X A small pyramid also was built by the surplus arising from 
excess of filial piety in this queen of Almah. 


80 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

own end ;—the survivor of “ the seven wonders of 
the world,” is a monument of vanity and disgrace. 
The pyramid of Chephrenes stands within 120 
yards of the former, and is but little inferior in 
bulk; passages, and chambers, have lately been dis¬ 
covered by Belzoni—in spite of the assertions of 
Herodotus *. The steps on the north side are near¬ 
ly worn away by sand and speculators: we ascend 
on the south, till we arrive at a smooth inclined 
plane f, leading to the apex : an Arab offered to 
clamber up for becksheesh, but being afraid to ven¬ 
ture ourselves, we were not disposed to risk the 
life even of an Arab in a danger so formidable and 
useless. The neighbouring smaller pyramids form 
a spacious burial ground ; those of Sacchara and 
Dasshour stand a few miles distant, and the town 
of Memphis probably occupied the intervening 
space, but part of the town also stood on the op¬ 
posite side of the river, if the story of Charont is 
rightly applied here. It is impossible to examine 
the pyramids without feelings of surprise and satis¬ 
faction. Yet, while I agree with Martial, in pre¬ 
ferring the Colisaeum, I sincerely hope, notwith¬ 
standing such misapplication of labour and ex- 

* Some things in Herodotus are true. 

t Belzoni calculates this inclined plane to be 140 feet in length. 

t “ Le batelier, qu’en languc Egyptienne on nommoit Charon.’* 
Charon—the silent. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 81 

pense, that they may outlast Horace ; at the same 
time I confess, that a crag of Alpine scenery has 
more charms for me than this little hill of human 
manufacture. 


\ 



G 


m 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER IX. 

CAIRO TO BEDROUSIN—SACCHARA-MUMMY-PIT—BE- 

NISOUEF-BEBEE-DJIBEL ET TEIR-PALM TREE- 

MINIEH-EL COOM AMRAH-METARRAH—BENIHAS- 

SAN-ANTINOE. 

Have engaged a candgy at sixty dollars per month. 
A candgy is the gondola of the Nile, the cabin is 
about five feet by eight, and this divided into two 
apartments : it is high enough to lie down in, and 
that is quite sufficient for a Levantine ; however, it 
is not very close, a wooden grating in lieu of win¬ 
dows, allows a free passage to the air, but there is 
neither glass nor shutter to prevent it. Our crew 
consists of the reiss (or captain) and nine Nubians: 
boat and men are to pass the cataracts; the agree¬ 
ment is drawn up by a public notary, and stamped: 
nothing is done without a stamp : the Pasha is an 
Englishman in taxing. The reiss has put his seal 
to it, as he is unable to write, and I have put my 
name : thus signed and sealed, the instrument is 
valid, whatever may be its purport: neither of us 
can read a word of it, but I put some faith in the 
reiss, as his green turban proclaims him to be of 
the family of Mohammed. This color (green) the 
livery of nature in every country, except where it 
is most desired, is sacred to the Prophet, and is the 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 83 

badge of founder’s kin—the captain receives twen¬ 
ty shillings per month—the pay of a boatman is 
food, and four-pence a-day. 

Mr. Grey has hired a candgy, and promises to 
go as far as Thebes. 

5, p. m. left Cairo.—It is something to begin— 
which we did by sleeping on board. 

8, a. m. —under weigh—neither the wind nor 
any thing else right—moor off Bedrousin—here 
amid a grove of palm-trees lives an Italian, em¬ 
ployed by the Pasha to superintend a manufactory 
of gunpowder—He is styled Bey, or Prince; surely 
baroneted physicians, whose prescriptions are much 
more effectual than Turkish gunpowder, have rea¬ 
son to be jealous. 

Visit the pyramids of Dasshour and Sacchara— 
uninteresting after those of Ghiseh—only two re¬ 
quire observation—one is composed of five terraces 
in lieu of a flight of steps—the other having reached 
a certain height, with an uniform ascent, is ab¬ 
ruptly tapered to an apex, as if means were want¬ 
ing to complete the original design. Soon sur¬ 
rounded by Arabs, who offer relics of the dead for 
sale—and themselves for hire as guides—those who 
have visited the field of battle have experienced 
the like importunities—these Arabs are resurrec¬ 
tion-men, who labour diligently in breaking the 
coffins and the bones of the dead. Michael Angelo 
would have borrowed hence some ideas for his pic- 
g 2 


84 


A VISIT TO EGYPT* NUBIA, 


ture of doomsday.—They at first denied all know¬ 
ledge of mummy-pits; but our interpreter spoke 
so intelligibly and so forcibly with his whip, that 
they conducted us to the “last found”. They had 
reclosed it at our approach—a hole three feet square 
cut in the mountain rock. Descend six or seven 
feet—very hot—long dark chamber—bones, bodies, 
and earthern vessels knocked and crumbled to 
pieces in every direction ; rags and bitumen not 
a grain of dust but what bore witness against the 
picking and stealing fingers of the discoverers. 
This chamber conducts to several others—projec¬ 
tions of the rock have been formed into deities— 
these guardians of the dead are themselves destroy¬ 
ed. These chambers are in size about twenty feet 
by seven ; in them wells or shafts excavated to the 
depth of thirty feet conduct to other depositories. 

.—Our guides would not allow us to descend into 
this nether world, nor would they bring up any 
thing without having first broken it, lest it might 
be worth having;—they imagine that it is the uni¬ 
versal character of man to search only for gold—a 
few grains of that sine-qua-non were unfortunate¬ 
ly found in the body of a mummy—the conse¬ 
quence is, that every corpse that can be discovered 
is pounded to dust; though it is no slight labour 
to pulverise the amomum that supplies the place of 
the excavated intestines, half the same exertion in 
any honest occupation would produce double the 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 85 

reward. We abused these fellows heartily—and 
whatever they offered, we bought. The Francs in 
Cairo give such encouragement to this species of 
sacrilegious larceny, that, within the last three 
years, the price of every relic has quadrupled; and 
possibly in a short time, the most zealous antiquary 
will not succeed, either by love or money, in pro¬ 
curing an old great toe. These excavations, as re¬ 
ceptacles of the dead, are not to be compared with 
those at Syracuse, nor even .with the catacombs at 
Paris, but are, comparatively speaking, family 
vaults. Not far hence is the mummy-pit of the 
Ibis—it has been frequently and thoroughly ran¬ 
sacked—this bird is no longer known in Egypt, 
but is sometimes found on the Red Sea—one speci¬ 
men lately procured there has been sent to the Bri¬ 
tish Museum. 

Made but little progress to-day—the wind not 
in our favour, and the crew of scarcely more assist¬ 
ance — shooting—geese — plovers—king’s fishers 
and a pelican. My dragoman says, it is fortunate 
that he is only a renegade—had he been a Turk 
born, he might have been angry at my killing a 
pelican ; for there is a story that, Mohammed 
making war upon the Christians, and being op¬ 
pressed with thirst, water was brought to him by a 
pelican : that bird is hence called, Sarcarr, or Wa¬ 
ter carrier—the Raven and Hebrew Prophet. 

Wind from the south; our boat has remained sta- 


86 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

tionary all day—the sand is so troublesome that I 
cannot quit the cabin; nail up a mat outside the 
window-grate—take up the carpet mat and nail it 
inside ; notwithstanding the close texture of these 
screens, the wind still penetrates, and the sand is as 
subtle as the wind, and accompanies it. I remem¬ 
ber to have read in Mr. T. Legh’s work that the 
sand penetrated even into the folds of the traveller’s 
linen, though locked up in his portmanteau. The 
cloud of sand is as thick as a London fog—dark¬ 
ness which may be felt—I can scarcely distinguish 
the head of the boat—the crew are all covered up, 
and lying at the bottom—Is this what travellers 
call the Simoon, which compels them to lie down 
in the desert ?—travellers see strange things, even 
though it is nothing but sand-dust. 

This day is a repetition of yesterday. 

A third day of Aades, with lucid intervals— 
though there is light enough whereby to see, it is 
so cold that I can scarcely hold my pen—hope that 
we shall not have more of this darkness than fell 
to the king’s share of the plagues of Egypt—glass 
49—but it is, to the present state of my blood, 
colder than I ever felt it during the Winter at 
Rome; it seems strange that the ancient Romans 
used to send their consumptive patients to Egypt, 
even though Fahrenheit is as flattering as a phy¬ 
sician—the heat of the day and the cold of the 
night are to me equally annoying. 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 87 

Wind and sand abated— four of our crew ill- 
one man found dead near the boat—said to be from 
cold —or, as we in England should return the ver¬ 
dict, “ found frozen to death.” Urged the reiss 
to his engagement of rowing and towing—a line 
prepared, and the crew harnessed—we advanced 
against the stream slowly enough for a little way; 
and when at length I thought we were going at an 
agreeable pace, I found the towing line was snap¬ 
ped, and the boat making all haste in the wrong di¬ 
rection ; the rope is made of the palm-tree—sand 
would have answered our purpose nearly as well— 
half the labour was to repair these brittle wooden 
ropes. 

The Nile is sinking rapidly—the labourer follows 
as it recedes, throwing the grain—the alluvial de¬ 
posit is slovenly turned over, and the plant rises in 
four or five days: where irrigation is wanted, the 
water is raised by a pot mill, as in “ Yussuf’s 
well,” with the assistance of a cow—they know 
not that the stream would perform animal labour; 
the water is also raised by two idle fellahs, with 
baskets, as described at Alexandria. A short dis¬ 
tance on this side Benisouef, the Arabic chain just 
into the river, and forms a new feature in the 
country—a Shekh’s tomb on the summit of the 
mountain, and a few palm-trees at the foot, render 
it even picturesque—this past, the chain opens and 
presents an extensive valley, but it is all desert— 


88 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

on the Libyan side is seen the Pyramid of Hilhaon, 
situate in the fine fertile valley that leads to the 
district of Faioum. This I am informed is the 
widest of the cultivated parts of the kingdom: it 
would employ a man two or three hours to walk 
across it. This stage-wide district is watered by the 
Bahr Jussuf (river Joseph).—Mr. Hamilton navi¬ 
gated it—and even had he not told us that it is 
uninteresting, in point of antiquities, I should not 
yet have forgotten the canal of Mansoura. 

A rookery.—I remember, while at Rome, that 
an Italian traveller spoke with admiration of the 
rookeries in England, but this is the first time that 
ever I paused attracted to such an object; these 
strangers croak, and remind me of home. 

Bebee—here is a Coptic convent—the only arti¬ 
cle in which that can possibly be appraised at the 
value of sixpence, is the hand of Saint George : it is 
carefully preserved in a wooden envelope—the out¬ 
side of which was shewn to us, but, though En¬ 
glishmen, we were not permitted even to see the 
hand of our Patron Saint. 

Shooting partridges — colour of grouse—long 
feathers in the tail—as wild as wild ducks—and 
cry like sand-pipers : meat brown, coarse, and ill- 
flavoured. 

28th December.—Moored under the steep cliffs 
of Djibel et Teir—Bird mountain—the sides co¬ 
vered with the black Damietta Duck—went out by 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 89 


moon-light—their feathers are nearly shot proof— 
hence the Arabs call them “ Ball-eaters”—not pa¬ 
latable. These birds are common on the Black Sea 
—and if as numerous as here we should have that 
etymology of the name. 

29th.—Very early on the heights—ducks, pi¬ 
geons, hawks, and swallows—the entire plumage' 
of the latter is of the same colour as the sand 
here are also partridges, and many reptiles that are 
scarcely to be distinguished in their resting place. 
It is a convenient thing that the colour of their 
coats remains in fashion throughout the whole year 
in Egypt, whereas in the north of Europe some ani¬ 
mals are at the chameleon-like trouble of changing. 
Here are some insignificant proofs of an ancient 
site—quarries and an isolated rock which has been 
formed into a temple or tomb, not worth visiting or 

describing. About two hundred yards from the rivers 

edge, and at the south extremity of a small grove of 
palm-trees, the sand has lately been excavated to the 
depth of about twenty feet. In this hole is seen a 
remarkable palm-tree: it is still erect, and had been 
entirely overwhelmed with the drifted sand ; a new 
head and stem had sprung up from the old one, al¬ 
most equal to the parent tree—but the leaves of its 
ancient head being still attached to their birth-place, 
it presents the appearance of one tree gi owing on 
the top of another. On the summit of Djibel et Teir 
is a Coptic convent i the inhabitants commenced 


90 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


baking for us, not having leisure to wait, the chief- 
priest offered me a stale but substantial bun, hav¬ 
ing Coptic characters and crosses on it—this is sa¬ 
crament bread: he begged for an empty bottle in 
the name of the Virgin. Denon gives a drawing of 
this place, which he calls the convent of the Chain, 
accompanied by an account, that while boats were 
passing, the monks used to be let down from the 
height into the river to swim, and beg, or rob. 

It is nearly the last day of the year—beans in full 
blossom—barley ripe—wheat knee high—dourrha 
gathered—dates finished—oranges ripe—sugar- 
canes cutting—indigo cut—the seed of the male 
date tree perfumes the air—the odour like that of 
the honeysuckle. 

As to the uses of the palm-tree—the timber serves 
for rafters or firewood—of the leaves are made 
cages, boxes, bed-steads, and every thing in the hur¬ 
dle line—of the fibres, cordage—also a fine thread 
(at Mecca) which answers the purpose of a flesh¬ 
brush—wine, honey, and arraghy (brandy), having 
the smokey taste of whiskey, with a smack of honey. 
The dates are eaten fresh, dried, or conserved, the 
stone of the fruit is boiled for camels—the heart or 
cabbage of the tree is a great delicacy, flavour like 
new walnuts—the tree deprived of it dies—the seed 
is insipid—the fruit grows in bunches, having the 
appearance of grapes, and might easily be descri¬ 
bed in Oriental language as the grapes of Canaan. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 91 

Kinneir states that there are forty-four varieties of 
the palm-tree. In a Persic poem are enumerated 
360 uses of the palm-tree—one for every day of the 
(old) year. 

Leave Djibel et Teir,—at Tennay medals are 
found. 

A favorable breeze,—the first,—it has brought 
us to Minieh. The bazaar and general appearance 
of the town is good in despite of the paucity of mi¬ 
narets—only three—more are not desirable if of the 
same sort. In the market-place stood a saint, alias 
a fool, quite naked—there wanted but the cart’s 
tail,—his head was shaved, excepting five frizzled 
locks, which displayed themselves, one on the cen¬ 
tre of the skull, and the others equidistant from that 
and from each other, like the four points of a wea¬ 
ther-cock. He was makinghideousnoises—to speak 
intelligibly would be to forfeit sainthood: he is the 
living idol of the town—even the rude Albanian sol¬ 
diers honoured him—one of them offered him cof¬ 
fee, the saint grumbled exceedingly, and drank it. 
Idiots generally ill treated in England, would no 
longer be fools if they went to Turkey. The cashiff 
or governor of this town is so highly spoken of by 
every traveller, that I should almost consider the 
wind favorable if it would blow contrary—for a Jew 
hours :—however, as it invites us to proceed, and 
will not wait for us, we accept its offered assistance. 


92 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

30th December.—El Coom Amrah—brick-dust 
amid palm-trees at the water’s edge. 

Metarrah—here we find the small pin-tailed fly¬ 
catcher, described by Denon. 

Benihassan—visited the sculptured catacombs— 
two octagon pillars formed of the live rock denote 
an entrance—the chamber is strikingly elegant— 
about 37 feet square—and half that measure in 
height—four sixteen sided columns pretend to sup¬ 
port the roof—the whole is a component part of the 
rock. They stand at the angles of an imaginary square, 
described in the centre, and divide the chamber in¬ 
to three equal aisles—the roof is gently arched and 
painted—the thickness of the rock left at the ex¬ 
terior wall is nearly five feet—on this are engraved 
eight perpendicular rows of hieroglyphics—at the 
opposite extremity are eight horizontal rows of fi-v 
gures painted—among which are represented wrest¬ 
lers in every possible position; also ploughing, goats, 
oxen, archery, boats, the rowers in which are stand¬ 
ing. At the extremity of this chamber is another 
about 10 feet square, a species of pocket chapel, 
in which are sculptured three figures, perhaps dei¬ 
ties. They, whatever the names may have been, 
are not in a better state than Dagon. We enter¬ 
ed another sepulchre chamber 30 feet square—a se¬ 
cond 52 feet by 40—ten rows of figures, seven of 
which are wrestlers—a third, about the same di- 


THE OASTS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 9$ 

mensions. Here are some pillars, the design of which 
has been suggested by four lotus plants bound to¬ 
gether. These chambers have the appearance of 
drawing-rooms rather than of sepulchres: the de¬ 
positories of the dead are far underneath, as at Sac- 
chara—perhaps the “ wakes” were held here, but 
even should the dead have wished to accept the in¬ 
vitation* to a feast, they would have found some 
difficulty, and perhaps no assistance even from those 
who wept at their death. 

Antinoe—the Arabic chain forms a semicircle 
to the river—palm-trees line the water’s edge, the 
recess is occupied by the ruins of that city which 
Adrian built in memory of his favourite : it is wor¬ 
thy of himself. Here Antinous committed suicide 
—if he had known that his voluntary and personal 
sacrifice would have been commemorated in such 
a manner, he could not have fixed upon a more eli¬ 
gible spot. The first object of attention is a mass 
of laboured stone piled upon the bank—it once 
formed a temple, it is now on its way to form a 
palace—a Turk has invited it to Siout—but the 
inhabitants of modern Rome, have, for the purpose 
of erecting private buildings, partly destroyed the 
Colisaeum. Many granite columns form an avenue to 
the where-was-once a temple, near which also is a 
remnant of that edifice which is going fast to Siout. 

* And why did you die now when there was plenty of buV 
ter milk?” Irish Requiem. 


94 f A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

\ 

The town was divided into four parts by the two 
principal streets, intersecting at right angles—hav¬ 
ing at either side a row of stone pillars—they look 
more like posts, the highest does not rise three feet 
from the present soil, but it is said that they are 
buried to the depth of nine—the diameter only 21 
inches—chains would give them a cockneyish ap¬ 
pearance—the street is 50 feet wide, handsome 
certainly, but unnecessary and impolitic. Even in 
Naples, which is less exposed to the sun’s rays, and 
where the houses are high, and the streets narrow, 
it was thought necessary that a book should be 
published, directing the passenger how to go from 
any one part of the city to another part, at any 
hour, and yet always be in the shade. At the north 
extremity of one street stands a conspicuous, and 
not inelegant column, it has an acanthus capital 
and the acanthus also ornaments the base of the 
shaft—it is the survivor of four. At the south ex¬ 
tremity of this street still exist two handsome fluted 
Corinthian columns, and other remains of a temple. 
In this probably the celebrated statue of Antinoiis 
was honoured. At the back of this is the site of a 
theatre, facing the river—the river would at any 
time be an object more agreeable than the neigh¬ 
bouring rocks or bad actors. To the east the re¬ 
mains of the city gate still make a noble appear¬ 
ance ; near this has been uncovered the original 
pavement, large slabs of stone, superior to that of 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 95 

ancient Rome, and nearly equal to the trottoir of 
London. A variety of columns are seen in every di¬ 
rection, and at the first coup d’oeil I had flattered 
my wishes in being reminded of Hadrian and of 
Rome. Coins in great quantities are found here, 
which the Arabs are glad to exchange for paras 
with foolish ignorant Francs. This old money 
wo’n’t purchase bread. 


96 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER X. 

RHADAMONE—ASHMOUNIM-HERMOPOLIS- MELAWr 

-MANFALOOT—MAHABDIE-CROCODILE PIT-LE- 

KRAAT-SIOUT-ABOUTIDGE-GOU-SHEKH EREDY 

-EKMIM-SOUHEDGE-GIRGEH-BALEAINIEH- 

ARABAT MATFOONAR. 

31st December.— Rhadamone.—Rode to Ashmou- 
nim, the ancient Hermopolis, the only remnant of 
antiquity is the portico of a temple—it is pleasing, 
inasmuch as it is the first specimen of its kind—not 
totally destroyed—and it is in itself magnificent. 
Twelve massive pillars support the roof, which ap¬ 
pears to a stranger at first sight, to be nearly per¬ 
fect, unfortunately only one stone of the cornice 
remains—and the cornice is the noblest feature in 
Egyptian architecture: this solitary stone is 26 feet 
long—the length of three modern Arab habitations. 
The fabric faces the south, and on the soutli or 
principal side are represented human figures—on 
the north are birds and other hieroglyphical signs 
—the signs on the crowns of the capitals are repe¬ 
titions of the same meaning : but written, those on 
one side of the entrance, from left to right, and on 
the other side, from right to left: the deling is 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 97 


covered with stars, as if to represent the firmament, 
but not arched. There is something very imposing 
in these twelve pillars, notwithstanding that they 
labour under the greatest disadvantage that pos¬ 
sibly can befal a ruin—mounds of filth enclose 
them and surmount them on every side, so that 
neither the blue vault of heaven, nor the setting 
sun, nor the moon’s silver light can ever add that 
more than human finish to the picture which en¬ 
nobles the works of man—through the interco- 
lumniations nothing is to be seen but filth—and 
yet the ruin is magnificent. 

Returned to Rhadamone—a few miles hence is 
the town of Melawi—a cloth remarkably thick and 
cheap, called tzarboot, is manufactured there.— 
Pursued our route. 

1st January.—A happy new year to you. Sail¬ 
ing towards Manfaloot—on our left a steep high 
cliff—grottoes and sepulchres gaping at us—very 
indifferent workmanship. 

Manfaloot—the bread here is as white as that 
at Venice—the Nile has just carried away part of 
the soil, and part of the town—it is all the same 
material. 

Opposite Manfaloot commences a cultivated 
plain, the first that we have been treated with on 
the eastern side of the river. At about an hour’s 
distance is the village of Mahabdie : it is in this 
neighbourhood that Mr. T. Legh explored the 

H 


9S 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


crocodile mummy pits, of which adventure he gives 
such an interesting account; it has, however, been 
said that the Arabs acted death, for the double pur¬ 
pose of deterring travellers, and of extorting mo¬ 
ney. Provided with Davy’s safety lamp, a long 
light stick, a thermometer, a plank and ropes, and 
accompanied by my dragoman and three others, 

I set out for Mahabdie—in our way thither we met 
several Arabs, every one of whom denied all know¬ 
ledge of the pit—arrived at the village we could 
get no information : it was evidently withheld, but 
at length promise of backsheesh induced a man 
to be our guide—under certain conditions.—1 mo. 
That he was to receive twenty-five piastres. Qdo, 
That he was to be accompanied by thirty of his 
friends armed : that we (five) were not to force 
them (thirty) into the cave, and that upon pointing 
out the entrance they might be allowed to run away. 
3io , That the dragoman (a Turk) should swear 
by the Prophet, by Mecca and Medina, that he 
would not only not force them (thirty) into the 
cave, but that he would not go in himself: to this 
he swore very readily—a Christian might go, &c. 
While these conditions were under consideration 
the news spread like wildfire—women and children 
crowded round us—“ What! go where my son 
died,” was the exclamation of a virago; “ if you 
fill my house with gold, my husband shall not go— 
he is an Englishman—he has magical incantations, 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 99 

and he is taking our husbands and children to cer¬ 
tain death, the soldiers who went last week are 
dead there”—and many other expressions well 
suited to deter me—on the other hand, the force 
of my Arabic and argument was summed up in the 
word, “ becksheesh.” Our guides as if preparing 
for “ certain death” took leave of their children : 
the father took the turban from his own head, and 
put it on that of his son—or put him in his place, 
by giving him his shoes—a dead man’s shoes. This 
treaty and ceremony lasted more than an hour—at 
length we set forth with our posse comitatus all 
armed. We had not yet cleared the village when 
we were beset by women and children, who, with 
frantic cries and gestures, took up dust by handfuls, 
and threw it in the air : as yet, however, there was 
no harm done, for the dust fell in their own faces. 
We were still advancing when a woman, brandish¬ 
ing a long staff, iron bound at either end, stepped 
forward, like Hercules in petticoats, and placing 
herself between our would-be-guides and us, made 
such a display of the argumentum ad hominem as 
well as ad baculum, that our thirty armed men posi¬ 
tively refused to accompany us another step. I must 
confess that it was a disappointment without sorrow, 
and we commenced a retraite honorable. Met by 
the governor of the village—on learning the cause 
of our visit, he asked if we would answer for our 
guides’ safe return—being assured in the affirma- 
h 2 


100 


A VrSIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


tive, he instantly commanded six men to lead us to 
the pit—we were followed by the cries and cuises 
of women and children ; the governor himself es¬ 
corted us to a bridge clear of the town, and here 
forbade a passage to those whom we were far from 
wishing to accompany us. A broad smooth winding 
road leads up the neighbouring mountain ; crystal 
grows on the summit like grass, and gives a novelty 
and interest to the scene, but there is not the slight¬ 
est appearance of life ; we entered a ravine, re¬ 
sembling the dry bed of a torrent: I was employ¬ 
ed in culling crystal—the guides ran a-head, and 
crying out, “ there, there it is, there died the sol¬ 
diers, and there you are going to die,” they ran 
homeward with all speed—one of them in passing 
called out for becksheesh, which I offered, but he 
would not stop to receive it—there must then have 
been some cause truly alarming : and such was the 
effect upon two of my boatmen, that they threw 
down the plank, and would not advance another 
inch. We had been an hour and ten minutes on 
our walk : this coincides with Mr. Legh’s account. 
The opening of the cave pointed out to us is a na¬ 
tural fissure in the rock, presenting a descent of 
about twenty feet; into this I let down Davy’s 
lamp—it went out immediately : relighted it, but 
with no success: again, and again—the sun was set, 
and although the moon according to her promise 
of last night, intended to shine in her fullest splen- 


THE OASIS BCERTS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 101 


dour, as yet it was gloomy, the air from the cave 
was far from agreeable, and the wind was shrill 
and melancholy—it did not require novel reading 
to magnify solitude into horror. The lamp had fail¬ 
ed so frequently, that my dragoman exclaimed, 
“ Omens, omens! the lantern dies! we are going to 
die: if you offer me millions I dare not go in.” Some 
bats flew forth, and convinced me that there was 
life in the cave, and that the fault was in the lamp: 
at length I amended it, much to my dissatisfaction: 
I was now compelled to enter,—and to enter it 
alone. I paused : did the fear of my companions 
communicate itself to me ? I had adopted all pru¬ 
dent measures suggested by Mr. Legh’s recital, 
yet I might still share the fate of the Arabs.—Ere 
I descended, I wrote in my pocket-book a few fare¬ 
well lines to one on whom my thoughts, perhaps 
the last, were pondering.—The thermometer sus¬ 
pended from my neck—the mercury rose fifteen de¬ 
grees : I fastened the light to the end of the stick 
and surveyed the apartment; spacious, irregular, 
apparently natural, and low, the floor covered with 
large flakes fallen from above: an opening before me 
—it is but a continuation of the fissure by which 
I had entered. Having no assistance at hand, in 
case of accident, I proceeded slowly, holding the 
light sufficiently in advance to give me notice of 
bad air, and Davy’slamp gave me confidence against 
explosion : the rock in some places lined with 


102 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

crystal, but dirty, as if from smoke; three large 
stalactites, the cast-off skin of a large snake, and 
some parts of mummies. The dragoman, finding 
me in good spirits, ventured to enter, in spite of 
the omens and his oath—I gave him some animals 
to demummise during my absence, and entered 
another fissure—prostrate on my face, any other 
position was impossible, and in this manner I pro¬ 
ceeded till I had far passed the length of passage 
described by Mr. Legh: found several small mum¬ 
mies, lizards, or crocodiles, but they might have 
been hid there by vermin. I returned feet fore¬ 
most, my dragoman examined the prey, and I 
pursued my search. I groped in and about the 
masses, still holding the light forward : something 
red is glittering—I distinguish a turban and a sol¬ 
dier’s vest—feel the colour fluctuate in my cheek 
—but yet the light burns brightly, and the soldiers 
carry arms worth earning. I called the dragoman, 
telling him that I had found one of those who had 
died there last week : he came forward and paused 
—after some minutes* deliberation, I advanced, 
and produced the clothes of my own dragoman; 
—he had taken them off at entering, on account of 
the heat. I now forced myself into the continua¬ 
tion of that fissure by which we had at first de¬ 
scended—found it soon impervious, being netted 
up with stalactites: re-examined the large cham¬ 
ber thoroughly, but could find no untried opening: 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 103 

returned to the surface of the earth, having been 
fruitlessly employed one hour and twenty minutes 
—so much for the mountains in labour. I imagine 
that the Arabs did not conduct us to the crocodile 
pit, either from fear, or calculating that whatever 
induced strangers to run the risk would be worth 
at least as much to themselves. The moon was at 
the full, and we searched the neighbouring moun¬ 
tains, but in vain; everything was unfortunate, even 
the valley of crystal did not glitter to the moon¬ 
beams ; it was past 10 o’clock when I rejoined 
the boats, and awoke Mr. Grey to tell him of my 
misadventure. 

Lekraat— standing at this place, the mountains 
on either side appear to form a semicircle to the 
river, only not meeting; the town of Siout occu¬ 
pies the vacuum at one end, and the Nile flows 
through the other—the Arena is studded with vil¬ 
lages, and is so flat and green, that the groves and 
every unevenness seem like islands in a lake—this 
is the peculiar characteristic and beauty in Egyp¬ 
tian scenery—I am now in an orchard of acacias, 
cultured for gum: camels and oxen grazing— 
threshing dourrha—tobacco in flower—gourds ripe, 
and other symptoms of summer,—on January 2nd. 
Not to know in what state other countries are 
at this moment, or to believe that it is really sum¬ 
mer, would be to deprive this scenery of its prin¬ 
cipal charm. 


104 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

Siout—the capital of upper Egypt—the town 
stands at the foot of the Libyan chain ; a square 
building, with nothing but its size to recommend 
it—reminds me of an English manufactory—it is 
the Palace—every life in this district is exposed to 
the caprice of a governor, who is only eighteen 
years of age. Siout is named Wolf-town (Lycopo- 
lis), but it is observed that there are no wolves in 
Egypt—there are, however, Jackalls;—My inter¬ 
preter informs me that there is a common term of 
abuse “ You son of a wolf.” 

This town is comparatively better than the vil¬ 
lages of Egypt—Virgil’s shepherd might, however, 
dispute that point—the dunghills that surround it 
present a formidable barrier to European eyes and 
noses—they are used by the natives as shambles, 
and crowded with butchers, buyers, dogs, and 
hawks — the latter are scarcely restrained from 
snatching the reeking meat from the scales. 

The catacombs rise in tiers on the mountain’s 
side : in the first, the principal entrance is a hand¬ 
some arched way—not built, but cut in the live 
rock; the bats, though not so large as those of 
Madagascar, deserve to be killed. 

On the second tier is an excavation 108 feet by 
78—the noblest part of which is the entrance— 
there must have been giants in those days. The 
view hence comprises the town and valley of Siout, 
seven minarets, groves of palm-trees, and./the 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 105 

meanderings of the river not altogether without 
boats, which form a landscape that a traveller has 
learned not to expect. 

Called on the banker—this Metropolitan bank 
is in some danger: there being as many as three 
or four applicants for money, and I want no less 
than the enormous sum of 100/. I took my place 
cross-legged on the mat: the room would just do for 
a hen-house,~mud, white-washed,—with one small 
window; in a corner sat “ the Firm,” with his desk 
and portable treasury before him—his attendants 
were armed— coffee was brought, and a slave, who 
was smoking, as I conceived, for his own amuse¬ 
ment, was troubling himself to light a pipe forme; 
I took the liberty of wiping the mouth-piece, which 
I was afterwards given to understand, is to doubt 
the cleanliness of master or man, and it is therefore 
an insult—not to let him spit in your teeth. I sat 
here about an hour and a half in limbo; during 
this, several Turks came in—took their places— 
drank their coffee—smoked their pipes—remained 
half an hour—said nothing, and walked away— 
whether these were visits of ceremony, pleasure, 
or business, I cannot decide—not a word was 
spoken—but what has a Turk to say?—he has no 
books, nor newspapers, nor curiosity, nor activity 

_he has no pleasure but his pipe — “fumus et 

umbra.”—That a man should travel for knowledge, 


106 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

or dance for amusement, excites the astonishment 
of the most enlightened of them. “ What, come 
so far to see buildings that are destroyed, and not 
be paid money for your trouble V* “ What, dance 
yourself, when you can hire others to dance for you 
for five shillings!” yet with all their idleness and 
want of thought, I never heard a Mohammedan 
whistle—whistling would be more tolerable than 
smoking; they seem happy, and “ if ignorance is 
bliss,” they ought to be really so—O that Eve had 
been a Mohammedan! My hundred pounds were 
to be paid in piastres, half piastres, and paras, 
pieces the value of six-pence, three-pence, and half 
farthings, the latter about the size of spangles; these 
were counted over three times, nor did any atten¬ 
tion to the visitors occasion the loss of half a far¬ 
thing to the Bank of Siout. It was but on one oc¬ 
casion that the object of the Firm was at all di¬ 
verted—he took a pipe from his servant’s mouth, 
put it into his own, and then into his friend’s, tak¬ 
ing that of the latter in exchange. This is the acme 
of civility in a Turkish gentleman—none but the 
ill-bred would feel any delicacy. At length the mo¬ 
ney was thrice counted, put into a carpet bag, my 
dragoman refused to be purse-bearer, and a donkey 
was hired to carry it to the boat—such money, and 
such trouble attending it, ought to be enumerated 
among the plagues of Egypt—the piastres are cop- 


THE OASIS 13CERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 107 

per slightly white-washed, the mask soon wears off, 
and like the “ testers” of Henry VIII. they blush 
at their own corruption. 

The caravan from Darfour has just arrived with 
two hundred slaves: the poor wretches, naked and 
way-worn, are huddled together in small mud cells, 
with only this comfort, that their journey is over ; 
grief seems nearly expended in all except one, 
who stands silent, motionless, and alone:—like 
Niobe she is the mother of many children, whom 
she can never see more. 

On leaving the town, a stranger en passant ac¬ 
costed me ; imagining that he had saluted me with 
one of the customary compliments of the country, 
I returned the best in my power—I am now told 
that the man had meant to insult me—whatever he 
had said, the words did not fall within my vocabu¬ 
lary of Arabic. Words break no bones—but ‘ a 
little— more —learning might have been a dangerous 
thing/ 

Returned to boat—slept at Aboutidge. 

Gou—a pile of stones protrudes into the river; 
I mistook it for a pier, but find it to be the ruin of 
a portico, which, twenty years ago, was described 
by Hamilton as containing eighteen pillars: last 
year there was but one; and that one has now been 
swept from its foundations by the Nile. Mud is 
left in its place, and that is of more use to the 


108 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


natives. The monolithic chapel still remains; 
medals and catacombs are found here as matters of 
course. 

Shekh Eredy—here is a mutilated mass, in which 
cognoscenti discover part of the human form from 
the feet to the knee, and swear that they are those 
of a Roman senator.—A Doum palm-tree, the first 
we have seen—it differs materially from the com¬ 
mon palm, the trunk is forked, slender, and bent; 
the leaves dwarfish; the fruit thrown amongst them 
—brown, misshapen, and clustered irregularly to¬ 
gether, like a root of potatoes. These nuts are 
steeped in water, and give it the taste of common 
gingerbread. 

The path leading up the neighbouring mountain 
is long, steep, and broiling—about half way to¬ 
wards the summit is a large quarry or grotto ; a few 
steps onward the path turns down into the heart of 
the mountain, it presents a romantic crater, in the 
hollow of which is the cell of Saint Eredy. Saint 
Eredy is held in great veneration by the Arabs, 
and in consequence of repeated pilgrimages, the 
rugged rocks have been worn into a tolerable path, 
but the length and difficulty of it is still sufficient 
to try the Mussulman’s faith—it will never make 
of me a Turkish Saint . I would rather ascend the 
“ Sancta Scala” on my knees, or even kiss the cross 
erected in the Colisseum, notwithstanding the many 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 109 

dirty mouths that slabber their prayers over it, for 
only the exemption of two hundred days from pur¬ 
gatory per kiss. My guides inform me that a sa¬ 
cred serpent lives in the cell, and is occasionally, 
like the relics at Rome, held up to the veneration 
of the true believers. It is not visible now, the 
subtle animal never makes its appearance in winter. 
Gemelli mentions a snake in this country that was 
sacred, the priests used to cut it into several parts, 
and the snake, worm-like, would join itself by 
diabolical agency. Who knows whether it were not 
Lucifer himself? 

Snakes were once worshipped in Egypt—they 
are represented as an appendage or attribute of the 
winged globe. The snake is still worshipped in In¬ 
dia ; it is fed by the natives as the robin is by us. 
—The Indians who accompanied the English army 
across the desert complained that the temples of 
their religion, viz. those of the ancient Egyptians, 
are here suffered to go to decay. Moses was 
educated in Egypt; Esculapius-like, he set up a 
serpent as a sign of curing and healing—the devil 
destroys all mankind under the same form. 

I climbed to the very summit of the mountain ; 
the Rockham, large vulture, flying around in every 
direction, and the surface of the ravines covered 
with crystal;—here is at once the scene of Sinbad’s 
valley of diamonds and the rock bird. I am as 
pleased as if I was reading the Arabian Nights En- 


110 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


tertainments, and like a child too, load myself with 
crystal, till my handkerchief and pockets burst. 
The Rockham is encouraged at every village to 
carry off dead animals—the Arabian tales were 
written by a Greek. I entered at the top of the 
ravine which conducts to the burial place of Saint 
Eredy; there are several perpendicular breaks in it, 
of from ten to eighty feet, a torrent would perhaps 
render it nearly comparable to Terni. To the S. of 
the most eastern of these falls, but considerably 
more elevated, is a low natural cave or grotto, at 
the entrance of which stand three large pillars of 
crystal—one of them is detached. I hastened to 
my boat and procured eight men with poles, mats, 
and all the ropes that Mr. Grey’s boat and my 
own could furnish—these eight stupid fellahs, not¬ 
withstanding my signs, and prayers, and curses, 
roll the pillar towards the ravine, and are unable 
to stop it—it leaped the first cataract, it was intend¬ 
ed that it should break, but it took fairly a somerset, 
and was not hurt;—the paltry Arabs cry out hay- 
lay-essah, God help us, but wanting more assistance, 
they invoke Saint Eredy by name, but he wo’n’t 
come when they call him, and the Arabs pretend 
that they cannot lift it without him ; they roll it 
onward to the second precipice, it touched various 
crags in its descent, rays of sparkling particles 
flew in every direction, and, glittering in the sun, 
appeared like a shower of diamonds—a miniature 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. Ill 

avalanche of brilliants; the body fell upon the 
edge of a rock, it shivered, and I left it in despair; 
the Arabs were now contented; there was no trea¬ 
sure concealed in it, two of them followed me 
bearing one fragment, and four of them labouring 
under another; the lesser fragment made its escape 
out of their hands, and taking the short path of 
the mountain, arrived at the bottom piecemeal; 
the larger one is safe on board*. 

Sixth—Ekmim : we are told of the ruins of two 
temples—meaning masses of stone. Shot partridges 
and quails. 

Souhedge—hence is seen a convent. 

Seventh—Girgeh, lately the capital of Upper 
Egypt—here are made leather bags, on which are 
represented flowers in patchwork. The arraghy or 
brandy at this place is good and cheap—here is a 
Roman Catholic convent, the establishment con¬ 
sists of one Monk ; if he makes no proselytes, he 
endures daily insult, and that is part of his Chris¬ 
tian duty; he finds consolation in the bottle, and 
will probably fall a martyr. 

Baleainieh—Arabat Matfooner, is situate about 
six miles distant inland. Great difficulty to procure 
donkeys, and then we had to make our own sad¬ 
dles —sacks filled with chopped straw. In the way 

* This has again been broken into several pieces in its way to 
England, the largest of which is now only four feet in circum¬ 
ference, and weighs rather more than one hundred weight. 


112 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

thither saw large flocks of hawks. Came to a narrow 
canal, which we forded, leaving the donkeys—it is 
only knee deep in mud :—mount over heaps of rub¬ 
bish, and come to an excavation lately made in 
search of a temple. Hamilton gives a description 
of this temple, you will hardly imagine that they are 
looking for a building, over part of the roof of which 
I paced fifty-four long steps, on stones that have 
never yet been displaced, though there are signs of 
destruction at either end. This roof alone occupies 
nearly as much space as the neighbouring village: 
some small chambers in which the colour of the 
painting is so well preserved that doubts immedi¬ 
ately arise as to the length of time that it has been 
done—the best works even of the Venetian school 
betray their age, but the colours here, which we are 
told were in existence two thousand years before 
the time of Titian, are at this moment as fresh as if 
they had not been laid on an hour—arched cham¬ 
bers thirty-three feet in length, the cieling, and pro¬ 
bably the sides, covered with hieroglyphics as care¬ 
fully as we should paper a room: they are nearly 
choke full of sand—the stones of which this fabric 
is built measure in some cases above twenty-two 
feet in length, the span of the arch is cut in a sin¬ 
gle stone; a portico is still visible, part of the roof 
has tried to fall in, but is prevented by the sand— 
here are also chambers innumerable—a subscrip¬ 
tion pack, neither line nor even size is observed— 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 113 

each individual part is of exquisite workmanship, 
but badly put together—great labour and irregu¬ 
larity. Perhaps the object most remarkable at this 
place is a chamber (or set of chambers) in which 
the Egyptians have attempted to build an arch : 
it affords at once a proof of their intention and 
their inability, the span of the arch is cut in two 
stones, each of which bears an equal segment of 
the circle, these placed together would naturally 
have fallen—they are upheld by a pillar placed at 
the point of contact: it has been doubted whether 
the Egyptians were acquainted with the principle 
of the arch—that they were not at the time of 
building this is evident, and it may be presumed 
that they never were so, because they did not dis¬ 
like arches, but have frequently cut them where 
sufficient space has been afforded by the live rock; 
and because that in every artificial roof they have 
been obliged to put a prop to support each stone, 
and hence the number of pillars in the temples. If 
those who raised the Pyramids, and built Thebes, 
and elevated the obelises of Lougsor had been ac¬ 
quainted with the principle of the arch they would 
have thrown bridges across the Nile, and have 
erected to Isis and Osiris domes more magnificent 
than those of Saint Peter’s and Saint Paul’s. 

Left Arabat Matfooner—re-waded the canal: the 
donkeys had eaten the bowels of our saddles, and left 
us the option of making use of our own feet or their 


i 


114 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

saw-like backs; walked; quite dark; lost our don~ 
keys and our way ; there is no turnpike road in 
Egypt; the alluvial deposit of the Nile gives anew 
face to the path every year, like a new ploughed 
field. We wandered mid beans, wheat, and lupines, 
wet with a heavy dew, and the wind very cold : 
on a sudden we felt a warm vapour, as if from an 
oven ; we were at this moment passing by the side 
of a mound ; but there was no fire ; we were shel¬ 
tered from the wind, and the heat arose from the 
earth ; the earth is like a hot bed, hence it is that 
the verdure is of so beautiful a colour. The dews 
and winds are cold : the birds are thickly feathered. 
After wandering for some time in perfect ignorance, 
the barking of dogs led us to a village; it was now' 
so late that the rustic conversazione had exploded, 
even the sliekh had retired, and the tw'o last of the 
party were taking leave of the dying fire. Though 
startled at our approach, they came forward imme¬ 
diately and welcomed us; one of them brought 
fuel, the other brought the lord of the village 
with his stock of bread, dates, sour oil, and buffalo 
milk, already half-way towards cheese ; the bread 
is made of dourrha and lentiles, and had it not been 
for hunger and hospitality I should have thought 
it bitter. We learnt that we were still as far from 
our boat as we were when at Arabat Matfooner ; 
the shekh offered me his horse, but as it could not 
carry all our party, I declined it; in return for his 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC* 115 

attention, I desired the dragoman to pay him hand¬ 
somely ; he refused to receive any thing, saying 
“ it was charity, not calculation, that brought him 
to a stranger in distress. ,, The dragoman forced 
a present upon him ; and I then desired that the 
sum, whatever it was, might be doubled. The shekh 
followed us to call off the dogs, and would have 
accompanied us to the boat had I permitted him; 
he gave us a guide and commanded him to lead us 
by his sugar plantations, that we might help our¬ 
selves ; his civility quite frightened me; I asked 
the dragoman how much he had given him, he says 
three piastres—I will answer therefore that it was 
not more than eighteen pence. I have often given 
double the sum for half the civility, and the shekh 
would never have received half so much for tenfold 
his attentions if to a Turk. He had never seen an 
Englishman before, or the market would have been 
spoiled—one ought to travel in this country in forma 
pauperis—regained our boat about midnight. 

Ninth.—Calm ; boat in tow; shooting ; met 
Mr. Lee, the vice-consul, his rnaash was moored 
by the bank, not towable. Expecting to join my 
candgy at a turn of the river, I pursued the birds 
far and wide ; but being alone, I was cautious not 
to approach any body, nor to let any body approach 
me \ it was past sunset, ere I reached the water’s 
edge ; and my alarm and disappointment at not 
being able to find my boat is perhaps not easy to 


116 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

be conceived. I walked towards a village which 
I was afraid to enter on account of the dogs; at 
their barking a young man came forward, and see¬ 
ing a stranger he turned back. He then came to me, 
bringing bread, and milk, and cheese \ and it was 
really with regret that I did not dare to requite him 
for his civility. I was compelled in prudence to pre¬ 
tend that I had no money, and asked if he had seen 
my boat ? He replied that he did not want money, 
and that he had seen a boat just descend the river. 
It might have happened that my candgy had pass¬ 
ed up, and not finding me had returned; at any 
rate there was one just gone down, and I followed 
it. At the water’s edge I soon perceived a smug¬ 
gler’s fire, by which stood a man and a boy. I ap¬ 
proached cautiously,and found them unarmed and 
cooking, the man told me it was dangerous to pro¬ 
ceed either way ; he offered me a resting place on 
board his boat, which was at hand; he gave me 
his cloak, his pipe, his supper, and his sleeping 
place, and more than these, he inspired confidence. 
I was beginning to doze, when I was startled by 
new voices—took up my gun, and remained under 
arms all night. 

10th—Six o’clock, a. m.~ Distinguished my cand¬ 
gy in the distance — ; paid for my night’s lodging. 
These boatmen are not delicate in accepting—they 
belong to Rosetta, and consequently expect that 
every Franc is to pay becksheesh on demand. After 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 117 

four hours’ walk, I joined Mr. Grey, and spoiled 
an anecdote anticipated in his journal—my death. 
Had I not quitted my boat I should have seen nine 
crocodiles, instead of pursuing a few quails and 
partridges over ploughed fields hard baked, besides 
the imprudence and fear to all parties. The crews 
of both candgies are in search of me—a reward is 
offered for producing my hat and body alive or 
dead—woe to Mr. Lee, if met with. Well authen¬ 
ticated reports already arrive that I have been kill¬ 
ed by soldiers, robbed and buried by Bedouins, or 
by the holy men returning from a pilgrimage to 
Mecca. It is but justice to add that no imputation 
whatever lights upon the character of the Arab 
fellah. 


118 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XL 

HO—DIOSPOLIS MIKRA-CAFR SAIAD-CHCENOBOS- 

CIUM — CROCODILES-WARRHEN-DENDERA- 

KENNEH—COPHT-GOOS. 

Eleventh January—Ho—mins of a modern mild 
village, and equally uninteresting, the fragments 
of Diospolis Mikra. A saint, playing the fool, and 
very good quail shooting. 

At Cafr Saiad are some stones of Choenoboscium. 
—I wish that authors would be so candid as to ac¬ 
knowledge what is not worth seeing. A volume of 
disappointments, or the miseries of travellers, would 
contain more truth than the generality of accounts, 
if people would confess having been on a fool’s er¬ 
rand. Descriptions, like pictures, though sketched 
on the spot, are too often over-finished and highly 
coloured at home. 

My boatmen demanded becksheesh, and pointed 
out thirty-nine crocodiles basking together on a low 
sand island. I was not willing to pay, at first sight 
supposing that they were but logs of wood, or trunks 
of the palm tree. On nearer approach I perceive 
that the mouths of all are wide open, and while I 
am preparing to shoot, they scramble into the wa¬ 
ter. The crocodile has but a humble opinion of its 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 119 

own strength and terrors. He is fearful and shy, or 
as the Arabs express it “ he has two heads.” What 
animal is so senseless as not to be afraid of man. I 
did once fire at a crocodile—missed it—all the 
boatmen declared that it was a palpable hit, and de¬ 
manded becksheesh. 

Met a fellah carrying onions, a few of which he 
gave us, I offered him money and he refused it; 
for the onions did not belong to him—how un¬ 
civilized. 

Saw an animal of about three feet long, basking 
on the bank, having an appearance between a liz¬ 
ard and a crocodile, the natives call it a “warrhen.” 
It leaped into the river ; swims with its head out 
of water ; a Nubian and myself pursued it—it land¬ 
ed and ran into a hole, a cul-de-sac.—I placed my 
hand upon its loins, and drew it out, my companion 
took off his clothes and enveloped it; in this man¬ 
ner we carried it to the boat, and with some fear 
and difficulty succeeded in fixing a cord round it 
and fastening it to the mast. It would make an ex¬ 
cellent man-trap—not one of us dare approach him 
—a pan of charcoal was burning within reach, he 
snatched a piece red hot from the furnace, and the 
more it stung him, the more savagely he bit it:— 
poor thing—I threw a pail of water over him—cut 
his throat—and flayed him. 

12th January. — Dendera—donkeys and saddles 
ready made are always forthcoming for an " En- 


120 a visit to Egypt, nubia, 

gilitz.” In a few minutes we are within sight of 
the temple, and use our utmost exertions to reach 
it. My obstinate animal has been there often 
enough, and now runs into a corn field, where I 
leave him, and trust to my own legs. On a flat plain 
of beautiful verdure rises a small dark mound, 
covered with ruins, in the centre of which appears 
the celebrated temple of Dendera. On nearer ap¬ 
proach, the surrounding fragments, which had given 
the principle features of the picturesque, dwindle 
into the mud walls of an Arab village. 

Dendera has been so often described in large 
square books, that to repeat what has already been 
said would be wearisome to us both. The first object 
of attraction is a propylon, on the left hand wall of 
which, in passing through it towards the temple, 
are inscribed large human figures accompanied with 
sacred writing; on the right hand are hierogly¬ 
phics only , such as birds and other signs : the same 
is observable on the two other gateways belonging 
to this temple ; perhaps the circumstance is of lit¬ 
tle importance to either of us, but the curious may 
like to trace the superstitions of the Greeks and 
Romans to the Egyptians, as half-way towards the 
creation, and it will be of great moment to ascer¬ 
tain whether Adam was a right or a left-handed 
man. 

Arrived at the Portico; I am lost in admiration, 
even though the concomitant filth hill is nearly on 


THE OASIS BCERlS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 121 

a level with the top of the portal.—The torus and 
overhanging cornice, the peculiar and characteristic 
beauties of Egyptian Architecture, are here in full 
perfection ; pillars that in size and number sur¬ 
prize and baffle the eye, solidity that speaks of the 
sublime, and carving on stone that in quantity and 
beauty resembles a picture gallery. The fabric is 
two hundred and eighty paces in circumference, 
and there is scarcely a spot of either wall, column, 
ceiling, or staircase, but what is ornamented with li¬ 
thography. Time, to spare so beauteous a work has 
passed by without destroying, and the most delicate 
lines ever formed by the chisel remain uninjured, 
except by man. On one wall, less than fifteen feet 
in extent, are sixty-nine rows of sacred characters 
beautifully engraven. The hieroglyphics are of three 
kinds, a simple line, bas relief, and a relief in a con¬ 
tour; the contour is four inches in depth. That sub¬ 
stantiality may not be wanting even in thought, the 
building partakes of the pyramidal form, and there 
is scarcely an aperture visible, lest a broken exte¬ 
rior should render its solidity imperfect. The outer 
wall is seven feet thick, not petty bricklayer’s work, 
but every stone in itself seven feet in thickness; and, 
as if not sufficiently stable by its own weight, is held 
by ingots of iron. Each stone of the architrave is 
more than twenty feet in length, and the pillars are 
twenty-two feet in circumference. On the capital 
of every pillar is represented Isis quadrifrons, un- 


122 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

fortunately only the lips of which remain; the other 
features of the face have been carefully destroyed. 
Had they been suitable to the lips, notwithstanding 
their coldness, they might have excited the idola¬ 
trous sensations of Pygmalion. 

13th.—Employed this day in examining and 
drawing. The pillars which had puzzled my arith¬ 
metical eye yesterday, are only twenty-four in num¬ 
ber ; they stand in four rows, the intercolumniation 
is not greater than the diameter of the pillar, and 
seven feet is too short a space between columns 
that are twenty-two feet in circumference; they 
appear crowded in a nest, and overgrown—the 
ceiling instead of resting upon them is raised upon 
cross beams, and consequently divided into chan¬ 
nels. Pressed by a want of light and air, and un¬ 
willing to destroy the integral strength of the ex¬ 
terior, the architect has compromised the matter by 
cutting embouchures, or loop-holes, which, though 
they may escape the eye when distant, appear to a 
near observer as paltry as the mouths of letter¬ 
boxes; the very celebrated zodiac* occupies less 
than half of a ceiling, which is only twenty feet by 
twelve, and it is to be lamented that hieroglyphics, 
though beautifully executed, are less intelligible 
than the characters of the Chinese t. The chamber 

* This zodiac carried to Paris. 

t “ Proper names were included by the oval ring, or border, or 
cartouche , of the sacred characters, and often between two frag- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 123 

of the zodiac is in the upper story of the building, 
near to which is a flight of steps that conducts to 
the highest roof or gazebo; this was probably used 
as an observatory. Among the hieroglyphics is re¬ 
presented a staircase with deities ascending. The 
study of astronomy is natural in a country where 
telescopes are not required, and to hold commerce 
with heaven is the part of priesthood. There are 
very few buildings that afford so much delight as 
the temple of Dendera; two days at least are grate¬ 
fully employed here; but a work of such labour 
and expense would have been more pleasing if ex¬ 
ecuted in the taste and elegance of the Grecian 
school. This temple is said to be dedicated to 
Isis. Near at hand is a smaller building, on every 
column of which is represented the evil genius Ty- 
phon—the Devil a pillar of the church. The tho¬ 
rough Etymologist may perhaps derive the word 
devil from Typhon by the go-between German word 
Tyfel! 

Kenneh—this is the pottery of Egypt—the jars 
manufactured here have the peculiar property of 
purifying water; they are so cheap and so brittle 
that they constitute the principal ingredient in an 
Arab village—first, as furniture, second, as an ac- 

ments of a similar border in the running hand.” Young on 
Hiejrog. Lit. —Travellers ought to know this, and copy all such 
with accuracy. 


124 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

commodationfor pigeons, then assisting in the form¬ 
ation of the walls themselves, like to the circus 
of Caracalla; and having served these three pur¬ 
poses, they tend to raise a Monte Testaccio all 
round. In form they are quite as ugly as any an¬ 
tiques I ever saw; if they were only as useless and 
as expensive, we should see them in museums. A 
quantity of these jars, bound together, the mouths 
downwards, does the duty of a raft—on this an 
Arab takes his station and floats down the stream; 
he retails his conveyance as he goes, as is done with 
the firs on the Rhine ; but in this country the poor, 
houseless, comfortless, fellah merely represents a 
naked bargeman on the Thames, while the scenery 
of the Rhine, the extensive rafts, and the Swiss- 
built habitations floating down the river are beauti¬ 
fully picturesque.—Kenneh is also famous for other 
frail goods. 

14th.—Copht.—It is said that the Cophts derive 
their origin from this place—I know not where 
their language comes from, not a word of it is un¬ 
derstood here. Some stones and broken pillars that 
once formed part of a Christian church, are now 
going hence to Siout to join the remains of the hea¬ 
then temple coming from Antinoe. Here are also 
some small chambers very inferior in size and exe¬ 
cution to the generality of Egyptian workmanship. 
The Arabs make use of them as stables and dust- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT S^NAI, ETC. 1 


holes, preferring for habitations their own earths 
to the temples of the disbelievers—I thanked my¬ 
self very little for this day’s long and broiling walk. 

Goos—now 8 a. m. —quite dark—little to be seen 
here even by day-light, I wish to see so much by 
candle-ray. Found the conversazione—the Arabs 
meet every evening to drink, talk, and smoke at an 
appointed spot—a palm-leaf shed, and a few lighted 
sticks is substitute for the English public-house; 
there is also this difference in the respective cus¬ 
toms that the drink here is limited to coffee, the 
talk, instead of like Doverscourt, all talkers and no 
hearers, is confined to the village story-teller; all 
the other mouths are filled with smoke. On our 
requesting a guide to the ruins, the party refused 
on, the ground of my being a Christian, therefore 
to prevent all difficulty the dragoman took his oath 
to my being a Turk. The only remnant of anti¬ 
quity is a propylon, or rather the corona of it; for 
till within six feet of the winged globe, it is choked 
up with rubbish; it is well worth the visit, at least 
I thought so by candle-light. The winged globe is 
perfect, gigantic, and within reach; the torus is 
equal to that of the great temple at Dendera. If 
there ever was a temple at this place proportionate 
to the gate-way, how magnificent must it have 
been, and how overwhelming the destruction ! Not 
a fragment of it is visible: the evening breeze was 
up ; though gentle in point of force, it was cutting 


126 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

cold; wherever we were sheltered from the wind 
there arose a warm exhalation—as if from dying 
embers, or a hot-bed—such as I felt and remarked 
upon at Arabat Matfooner—the days are like those 
of summer, the nights like those of winter. 

15th.—Moored late at night in the centre of 
Thebes. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 127 


CHAPTER XII. 

THEBES-TOMBS-MEMNONIUM-MEDINET-ABOU-' 

MEMNON-LOUGSOR-CARNAC — PSYLLUS-DOGS 

-CEMETERIES-RELICS. 

16th. —It is scarcely dawn, and there is sufficient 
time, if I wish it, to be within hail of Memnon 
long before that statue speaks to the sun! 

The sun rises, the obelises of Lougsor are 
seen ; the whole of Thebes is visible. Situate in 
a large plain are two colossal statues: to the west 
and to the east, to the north and to the south are 
temples; the Nile, the * “ Father of rivers,” 
flows through the centre; the panorama is cir¬ 
cumscribed by mountains, a burning desert: the 
verdure at their base is beautifully brilliant, like that 
emerald spot which flourishes ’mid cold sterility, 
the “ Mer de glacethe temples are in ruins, 
“ ages are their dowerand, though ivy is wanting 
they are almost picturesque : the whole day has not 
sufficed for me to run through the city of the hun¬ 
dred gates ; intoxicated with admiration, I must 
endeavour to cool my opinion like that council 

* The Nile is called, by the Abyssinians, Abanchi—the father 
of rivers. 


128 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

which proposes when drunk, deliberates when 
sober, and chooses the medium. 

17th.—Another day of delight* though spent in 
a tomb, but it is the tomb of a Theban king, the 
one lately discovered by Belzoni. Twenty-four 
hours are well employed here in examining the arts, 
the genius, and the doctrine, of the Egyptians, 
but perhaps my taste in that respect, may, like 
that for olives, be acquired. The principal deity, 
Osiris, is represented under the form of an ox— 
the children of Israel, who had been long dwelling 
in Egypt, were led away by Moses, they rebelled, 
and formed a golden calf—here is a man helping 
somebody to a leg of beef, perhaps a sacrifice, not 
to but of the god. The colouring, owing to the 
dryness of the atmosphere, retains a specious 
freshness;—meseems as if the artificers had but now 
left their work—it is brilliant but gaudy ; in some 
places the designs have been sketched in red, and 
corrected in black, ready for the sculptor; in these 
unfinished figures the sweetness of the face, and 
the extraordinary length and beauty of the eye*, 
rivet attention : there is that expression of love in 
the countenance and manner of Isis, as she wel¬ 
comes the hero to the tomb, and that contentment 

* At Munich I saw two young Brazilians, whose eyes are 
similar to these in the tomb—these children were lately brought 
from the river of the Amazons by Professor Marsius. 


THE OASIS ECERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 129 

in the hero himself, that he seems “ potius e vit4 
migrari quam mori,” while the female deity recalls 
the words of Eloisa. Plato must have been de¬ 
lighted to see the doctrine of immortality so beau¬ 
tifully pourtrayed. 

The number of regal tombs is stated to be forty, 
twenty-four of which still remain to reward the 
lucky adventurer. Belzoni has gained a consider¬ 
able prize—the other fifteen have greatly sunk in 
value; the representations of agriculture, musi¬ 
cians, and a dispensary are, however, worth a visit; 
the myriads of bats that oppose your passage are 
not the least remarkable among the curiosities of 

Egypt- 

18th.—The first mass of stones that interrupts 
my walk this day once formed a propylon and a 
temple: of these I believe that travellers have 
taken no notice : they are quite right. 

The second temple is the Memnonium, so it is 
called improperly—the propylon is a mountain of 
laboured stone: and as at the gate-ways at Den- 
dera, so here on the right-hand at entering there 
are no human figures.—On the N. front, the king, 
giving orders to his captain going forth to battle, 
is majestically represented: the passage of this 
gateway is 39 feet in height. Magnificent as it ap¬ 
pears, it is not sufficient to prepare us for a statue 
to which it leads—this Colossus is unfortunately 
broken in pieces, but every fragment of it still 

K 


130 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

excites admiration, the head and shoulders 20 feet 
long, and the breadth of the chest is twenty-two 
feet. Not without difficulty some of us Lilliputians 
managed to climb upon the face of this Gulliver— 
the little toe of whose foot is three feet long.— 
Near this is the remnant of another grenadier; it 
was found impossible to transport the whole body 
to England; the head was so good that it was taken 
off and sent in triumph to the British Museum, 
where it is named Memnon junior. 

Near this Memnonium is a smaller building, 
which is also called a temple—such are as frequent 
with Egyptian places of worship, as the vestry 
room with an English Church. It is said that 
small temples were erected for the accommodation 
of the vulgar—the many . This one has been con¬ 
verted to Christian uses by monks, who were of 
course too lazy to deface the heathen deities, ex¬ 
cept with a mask of mud—in one of the chambers 
is a neat border designed from the lotus flower. 

Medinet Abou—the first structure excites but 
little interest—it possesses the sine-qua-non of 
Egyptian architecture— a torus. Adjoining this is 
a building said to be a palace ; the castellations on 
the top indicate that it is not a temple, and that it 
is not of Egyptian workmanship. Close at hand is an 
immense and noble fabric four hundred and twenty 
feet in length, but nearly half of it is filled to the 
very roof with sand. The exterior wall on the south 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 131 

side is entirely concealed by rubbish ; many of the 
representations on the other are interesting, and 
beautifully executed; the principal figures are cut 
six inches in depth, the others are comparatively 
but scratches. The hero is standing on the heads 
of his enemies, and, that he may shew his supe¬ 
riority, the vanquished are reduced to pigmies; he 
has drawn his bow to the utmost, and in elegance 
and design he reminds me of the Apollo Belvidere. 
Homer also might have borrowed from these 
scenes, for the gods themselves are here engaged 
in fight, and the horns of Isis and Osiris are visi¬ 
ble upon several of the figures. Beyond the cha¬ 
riot of the king is a lion, or tyger, in the jungles: 
Hamilton describes the subject to be the Egyptians 
repelling an invasion. The amputated hands of 
the vanquished are presented to the conqueror: a 
natural and effectual manner of preventing a second 
attack from the prisoners of war. The vestry-room 
belonging to this temple is now used as a cow¬ 
house. 

Memnon.—There are two gigantic statues which 
claim this title: they are situated near each other— 
each 50 feet high—both in the same position,sitting, 
—their hands resting on their knees; that on the 
S. is formed of one solid block of granite, the other 
of various pieces. There is a doubt with some peo¬ 
ple as to which was accustomed to bid good morn¬ 
ing to the sun; on the perfect figure there is no in- 
k 2 


132 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


scription; the broken one is covered with engraving 
as high as man can reach—these inscriptions record 
the names of those who testify to having heard the 
statue utter the miraculous sound at sun-rise—it 
is said that the component pieces of this statue are 
not original; but why does it not remain of one 
block like the other? If it were an earthquake that 
broke it, it was a very partial one, to spare its 
neighbour; or was it broken in search of the in¬ 
visible priest? the Delphic oracle was acquainted 
with the principle of acoustics—and an oracular 
pipe is to be seen in one of the temples on the 
Clitumnus. Among the inscriptions on the statue 
is the following: 

HAIOAflPOS THNX1 
NOS KAISAPEIAS IIA 
NIAAOS HKOTSA A KAI 
EMNHS0HN THNI2NOS 
KAI AYANOT AAEA$m. 

This deserves copying, as well as the lines said to 
be written on the pyramid: 

“ Vidi Pyramidas sine te dulcissime frater.” 

See Davison, or Quaresmius. 

In this part of the city of the hundred gates we 
cannot at this moment procure any Christian food; 
the Arabs set me the example of eating the grass 
of the field, a species of tares: it is very palatable, 
we eat lettuces and radishes in like manner un¬ 
cooked. 


TIIE OASIS BOiRIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 138 

Lougsor.—This temple swarms with dogs, Arabs, 
houses, and other filth, by the accumulation of 
which the entrance of this magnificent fabric, which 
is or ought to be fifty feet in height, will not now 
admit a man without stooping; part of the building 
has been converted first into a Greek Church, now 
into a cinder hole—the obelises, though half bu¬ 
ried, are the finest in the world—on the propylon 
are represented, as usual, battles, and victories. 

Carnac.—The connected parts of this temple 
extend four hundred and thirty paces, besides in¬ 
numerable gigantic appurtenances, columns and 
sphinges—on one side an avenue of these hetero¬ 
geneous animals extends a mile: here are deities 
with heads of bulls and cats—the latter generally 
called Isis Tyger.—The cat was idolized perhaps 
as being the personification of some good property 
or attribute of the deity; mummies of this animal 
are found. This temple is called the Diospolis; 
here is the magnificent saloon which is named 
“ de mille colonnes,” and here was offered up an 
annual sacrifice:—the devoted victim was kept a 
year previous in a neighbouring sanctuary by the 
priest, whose duty it was to instruct her in the 
holy mysteries. The outer walls of the temple 
are covered with the representations of battles and 
in these descriptive scenes the hero is always re¬ 
presented as a giant, and his adversaries as pig¬ 
mies: the victor thinks nothing of squeezing a 


134 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


couple of men under either arm like a gizzard, or 
“ bruising his enemies with a rod of iron,” or hold¬ 
ing up a regiment by the hair of their heads, and 
then, as if this bundle of men had but one neck, 
he determines to decapitate them at one blow: his 
enemies are made his footstool—these would ap¬ 
pear extraordinary representations on a church, 
even while we are repeating some of those psalms 
which, at first thought, seem to savour of revenge.* 
The Egyptian method of representing the superio¬ 
rity of the victor by size is but little complimentary: 
—true that Alexander ordered the beds for his 
soldiers to be made eight feet long, but Bonaparte 
would not have been ashamed to have been pour- 
trayed in his diminutive reality—little praise is 
due to a Brobdignagian among Lilliputians—Lord 
Wellington always allowed that the French fought 
bravely—the credit redounds upon himself, for 
he beat them—and even then they “ran away like 
lions”.—Battles, chariots, and horses are the sub¬ 
jects of the gateways, as if they were triumphal 
arches, and at the same time dedicated to the deity 
in consequence of vows made previous to victory; 
these gateways abound in Thebes, and hence arises 
the poetical description of the city of the hundred 
gates, and the hundred chariots at each. 

It has been frequently remarked that no Egyp- 


See Horne’s Preface to his Commentary on the Psalms. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 135 

tian buildings, except temples, are in existence— 
the houses of the Deity are in all countries built 
with more care and expense than the houses of 
men ; priests were the governors of Egypt, and yet 
it might rather be a matter of wonder that even 
tlxeir cathedrals remain, for the country has un¬ 
dergone many religious as well as political changes; 
no kingdom ever subsisted without a religion—and 
revolutions of state go hand in hand with revolu¬ 
tions in religion: no wars are so implacable as 
those of fanatics, and no enmity farther pursued; 
—even the groves of the Druids did not escape, 
the trees whereof were harmless—and the beau¬ 
ties of the Athenian temples are destroyed by the 
followers of Mohammed. 

A great quantity of quails and long-tailed chat¬ 
tering partridges—the cashiff of Goos is staying 
here for the amusement of shooting—he shot his 
wife a short time ago, and has never been seen to 
smile since, except when he shoots a bird—he was 
lately cup-bearer to the Pasha, an office of consi¬ 
derable trust, and because he did not take the op¬ 
portunity to administer poison, the viceroy made 
him governor of Goos—his wife shammed ill, and 
went to Siout to intrigue; the governor of that 
town sent her back with a letter desiring her hus¬ 
band to take the law into his own hands—he shot 
her—he is a very good shot ; whenever a bird drop- 


1 36 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

ped to his gun, one of his attendants ran up imme¬ 
diately to wring the head off. 

Sitting with Grey on the top of one of the build¬ 
ings of Carnac for the purpose of drawing—an 
Arab was employed to hold up an umbrella between 
me and the sun-—after a short time he requested 
permission to fetch his great coat (abba) as he 
found it cold. Grey’s thermometer 86°—the heat 
varies from 55° to 102°. 

The Psyllus or snake-charmer.—It is supposed 
that snakes live in these habitations like rats—and 
two patriarchal Arabs profess that they will come 
when they call them. We went in to houses and 
cow-houses, the Arabs jabbered an incantation, of 
which we could only understand the words “ come 
out, come out, in the name of Abraham, if you do 
not come out you shall die;” notwithstanding the 
threat the animals stopped their ears, and we, im¬ 
patient and tired were preparing to go, when two 
large snakes made their appearance; the initiated 
immediately seized them, carried them out upon 
the plain and commenced singing—the snakes with 
good ears for such music began to dance—so it is 
called: the animal raises itself half length upright, 
and in this position jumps about and looks around 
him.—I took them up, much to the astonishment 
of the natives, and to the indignation of the danc¬ 
ing masters, who ashamed of being exposed before 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 137 

their neighbours, pretended to be alarmed at my 
temerity—they warned me to guard my eyes—my 
servant Giovanni likewise handled them, but he is 
privileged, being a Maltese, and snakes in remem¬ 
brance of the Saint, will not bite a Maltese, espe¬ 
cially if born on St. Paul’s day. The-magi have 
also tame scorpions, and gave me leave to be bit by 
them, promising that if I should previously swal¬ 
low a little of their prescription I should not be hurt. 

Cry Christian and let slip the dogs of Thebes— 
the dogs of Thebes are as knowing and as savage 
as those of Alexandria—the streets are about a yard 
wide, the houses five feet high, and the dogs # live 
on the top of them; the risk that a man runs in 
passing, depends upon the length of his nose. When 
the French were here, the dogs died very rapidly 
—the French manage things very well—it was 
thought that the plague had carried them off; un¬ 
fortunately it never infects the dogs, notwithstand¬ 
ing that beautiful but fanciful description by Lu¬ 
cretius the poet of nature . The dogs are them¬ 
selves one of the plagues of Egypt. 

Among the curiosities of Thebes is a chicken ma¬ 
nufactory—the eggs are arranged in a mud oven, 

* Linnaeus, speaking of the dog says, “ Musselmannis expel- 
litur.” A Turk will not allow dogs to enter his house, because 
they do not wear shoes. A Turk always takes off his shoes; he 
sits upon the floor; and so well are the dogs broke in, that I ne¬ 
ver could seduce one to come upon the mat. 


138 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


and heated at a regulated temperature—by this ar¬ 
tifice are annually produced thousands of orphan 
chickens.—Yet even this process is less extraordi¬ 
nary than that the monstrous egg of the ostrich 
should be hatched without assistance; and that 
Nature — lusus Naturae—should herself appoint 
her own rival. 

In the city of the hundred gates, the inhabitants 
on the east bank live in mud hovels, on the west 
they live underground; part of a dark cellar is oc¬ 
cupied by the Arab and his family, the remainder 
by cows, goats, dogs, corpses, and other curiosities; 
in some are to be found ten or twenty mummies; 
the plain is strewed with broken bones, the coffins 
are used for fire-wood, and the amomum # or bitu¬ 
men offends the nose wherever there is a fire. A 
mummy may be bought for five or ten shillings, 
though it probably cost 60 or 250 pounds sterling 
to prepare!; in consequence of traffic, many of these 
Troglodytes are become men of property, worth 
five or six hundred sixpences. On this, the W. side, 
is the necropolis, and here are found all the relics; 
the mountains are hollowed into cemeteries, where 
gaping sepulchres appear like the mouths of a man 
of war—no Egyptian was buried where vegetation 
could live, and those who died on the eastern side, 
were ferried over by the Charon. The trouble that 


* Hence the word Mummy. 


+ See Diod. 


THE OASIS BCEIUS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. lo'J 

the Egyptians took to preserve their bodies, causes 
their destruction, and “ the race of Nilus barters 
for their kings. ’ I was standing by when the re- 
surrection men found a sepulchre, they offered me 
the haul, unopened, for four guineas. It proves to 
be Grecian Egyptian, the first of its kind hitherto 
discovered; three chambers, fourteen coffins, on 
each of which was placed a bunch of sycamore 
branches; these branches fell to atoms at the touch 
there are also coffinless bodies, having the ap¬ 
pearance of leather, dried perhaps in the same 
manner as is still practised by the Capuchin friars in 
Sicily: one of these stood erect at the entrance, the 
others were prostrate on benches ; the heads were 
shaved ; the beards were of a few days growth; 
on the principal coffin is the following inscription : 

CX1THP KOPNHAIOT IIOAAIOY MHTPOC 

OIAONTOCAPXJQN 0HBI2N 

The hieroglyphical figures testify to the degeneracy 
of the art; the papyrus found in this case,* is not, 
as is usual, rolled up, but folded flat; the body was 
enveloped in thirty linen wrappers, the hands and 
mouth gilt:—from another I copied an inscription 
which attests the coffin to be about sixteen hundred 
and fifty years old—some long earthenware jars 
were in the tomb, but empty. 


* The case and papyrus presented to the British Museum. 


140 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

The women and children pester us to death, de¬ 
manding becksheesh ; the former give us in ex¬ 
change relics of the dead, such as idols and small 
figures, the latter collect in crowds behind one’s 
back, and cry out “ merchant give me half a far¬ 
thing,” and on turning round even to comply with 
their request, they all'run away, as if their nurses 
had taught them to dread a Franc as a devil. 

Among the relics that I procured, are earthen¬ 
ware rings, scarabees, pocket idols, and represent¬ 
ations of the devil playing the harp ; also various 
animals. These little deities were probably, when 
in fashion, held as sacred as the household gods of 
the Romans, or worn round the neck, as Christians 
wear a string of beads and across, or as the Catho¬ 
lic has a crucifix at the head of his bed. Among 
the dead I found platted hair, and hands, the nails 
of which prove the ancient use of henneh ; also a 
female body entirely covered with an elegant net¬ 
work of blue beads or bugles, ornamented with 
small scarabees and deities. The immortality of the 
soul, the most sublime idea that human energy ever 
conceived, was known to the Egyptians—the care 
which they took to preserve their bodies implies a 
wish at least to rise in their own forms, without 
having been digested by worms, and running the 
chance of getting wrong arms and legs: judging 
by analogy, that they should be hungry at waking, 
bread was placed in the tomb to refresh them.— 


THE OASIS B(EIIIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 141 

How many of them will shiver to find themselves in 
London or Saint Petersburg, if it should happen to 
be about Christmas time. 

I discovered a basket full of the viaticum, about 
a shilling’s worth of biscuits, to last the whole voy¬ 
age of I know not how many days from this world 
to the next: the panier* is of the same construc¬ 
tion as those still made at the Cataracts, anil in 
South America, and perhaps every other place 
where the same materials are used. 

The whole of ancient Thebes is the private pro¬ 
perty of the English and French consuls ; a line 
of demarcation is drawn through every temple, and 
these buildings that have hitherto withstood the 
attacks of Barbarians , will not resist the specula¬ 
tion of civilized cupidity, virtuosi, and anti¬ 
quaries. 

* Sent to the British Museum. 


142 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XIII. 

HERMONTIS—ESNEH—LATAPOLIS—CONTRA-LATON'— 

HEGGS-ELEITHIAS-EDFOU-HADJAR SILSILIS- 

KOUM OMBOS-ISLE OF ELEPHANTINE—ESSOUAN- 

CATARACTS—PHILCE. 

Mr. Grey determines to return to Cairo, and I re¬ 
solve to ascend to Ebsambal. I dine for the last 
time on board my friend’s boat—his cook is a 
Maltese and a Catholic, his dragoman is a Turk 
and a Hadji. # The dragoman, because he is a 
Mussulman, refuses to eat with a Christiant: the 
cook, because he is not only a Catholic, but the 
son of a Knight of Maltat, refuses to give the Turk 
any thing to eat—the whole boat is consequently 
in eternal hot water. There is an Arab on board, 
to whom, on account of his good conduct, Grey 
has been extremely liberal; he is perpetually 
crawling into the cabin to kiss his patron’s hand, 
and pour forth benedictions, the most frequent of 

* Hadji—i. e. Pilgrim. 

f The Knights of Malta swear not to have wives, 
t Joseph ate apart from his brethren, tf because the Egyptians 
might not eat bread with the Hebrews/’ Genesis. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 143 

which is “ May your father and mother be blessed” 
—there is something peculiarly beautiful and com¬ 
prehensive in the idea of blessing one’s parents— 
the benediction occasionally includes all one’s an¬ 
cestors from the creation:—the lad belongs to my 
boat, but liberally offers to accompany Mr. Grey 
to Christendom,* on condition of receiving a wife 
and fortune. 

Hermontis—here is a small temple; the repre¬ 
sentations on the walls of which are confined prin¬ 
cipally to animals, elephants, birds, cameleopard, 
and the fox or jackall; the Typhon displays the 
character of the ourang outang. This menagerie 
is said to be dedicated to the evil genius; but in 
an inner apartment the female deity is nursing her 
infant Horus, who is eventually to become the 
enemy and conqueror of the Typhon. 

Esneh—Latopolis, nothing remains visible ex¬ 
cept a portico; and this, though in the middle of 
one of the principal towns, is filled for the greater 
part with dirt, the remainder with bales of mer¬ 
chandise. The dirt is collected to such a height 
that the road-way is on a level with the roof of the 
body of the temple, and on this are built the pigmy 
houses of the Arabs. The area of the Colisasum 
is nearly twenty feet under the present surface— 

* This lad on the passage to Cairo took sundry mementoes of 
Mr. Grey and the cook, with which he decamped. 


144 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

the seven hills of Rome are scarcely to be found 
—old Catania is buried in rubbish and volcanic 
matter—sand and the customs of Egypt are as de¬ 
structive as a volcano. The portico, as much of it 
at least as is visible, is not so striking, but more 
pleasing than, that at Dendera; the figures are not 
so exquisitely finished, and are of a different cha¬ 
racter. Isis has a bewitching half modesty in her 
face, but is rather clumsily embonpoint—the ge¬ 
neral figure is spare and delicate, and pleases me, 
notwithstanding Winkleman’s observation that 
the Egyptians did “ not sacrifice to the Graces”. 
We are told (by Diod.) that the proportions of the 
figure were so arranged and so well understood, 
that different parts (the height and position being 
known) formed in different places and by different 
artists would correspond with each other: there is 
consequently a great sameness—but in the capitals 
of the columns, here at least, there is none—they 
display a taste diametrically opposite—regular irre¬ 
gularity—like the roses of a Roman archway— 
variations of the same subject, with a family like¬ 
ness throughout the whole. There is not one of 
them that I would wish to be absent, and yet the 
want of uniformity is not pleasing—like a dozen of 
various, though good wines, mixed together. 

At Contra-Laton is a small temple, which ap¬ 
pears to advantage—in the distance only. Three 
miles north of Esneh is another, among the hiero- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 145 

glyphics on which is a serpent with legs and arms, 
acting footman to a lady with a cat’s face. 

Heggs—Eleithias—a wall of crude brick 30 feet 
in thickness—also a temple, and rocks, and there¬ 
fore yawning sepulchres. The paintings in these 
are interesting, and uninjured; ploughing, reap¬ 
ing, weighing, fishing, slaying, feasting, dancing, 
rowing, also a funeral procession, the widow with 
hair dishevelled, followed by friends who come to 
weep and eat. The remainder is devoted to pre¬ 
parations for a feast—weeping and gnashing of 
teeth, like an Irish wake. 

Edfou—though seen after Dendera, and inferior 
in size to Carnac, yields to neither in effect—the 
mole and entrance are the noblest in Egypt—the 
overhanging cornice alone projects nearly five feet. 
Among the representations is the sacrifice of a 
gazelle—spearing a turtle of the Nile—and a figure 
setting up obelises, two at a time, as if they were 
nine-pins. When Pope Pius raised that very small 
obelise in front of Saint Peter’s, it was considered 
a work of such danger and difficulty, it was de¬ 
creed, that whosoever should speak during the 
performance should suffer death. 

In lieu of boats, rafters made of reeds are in fa¬ 
shion here, two, three, or four sheaves of which 
are bound together; after use they are easily drawn 
on shore, placed up onend, soon become dry and 
fit for another voyage; but I find it upon trial to 

L 


146 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

be necessary that the adventurer should be skilled 
in the art of self balancing, and a fatalist. 

Hadjar Silsilis—the rock of the chain:—here the 
Nile forces its way through a low ridge of stone, 
which still seems inclined to dispute the passage. 

Kuom Ombos is a noble ruin, thirteen pillars 
are yet standing, and two are fallen; this temple 
differs from all others, inasmuch as the number of 
pillars is uneven, and that there are two entrances 
and two adyta. At this place the crocodile was wor¬ 
shipped, and one of these water devils was fastened 
by a golden chain:—he is here personified—-pre¬ 
serving only his own head, seated on a throne, and 
receiving offerings. When Egypt was divided into 
nomes , coins were struck for each—the last disco¬ 
vered bears the head of Trajan*—the reverse a 
crocodile. We passed the burial-place of a saint 
—one of our crew invoked a fair wind in his name, 
and demands becksheesh, because in consequence 
of his prayers we arrive this night at Syene alias 
Essouan. 

The islet of Elephantine is in part covered with 
palm trees and corn, partly with ruins; the mud 
cottages of the natives add to the picturesque: 
rocks, harbingers of the cataracts, break the stream 
on every side, and peeping also through the ver¬ 
dure, indicate that the “ flowery isle” is stolen 

* This has been heard of, but not seen by the Editor of the 
latest work on .medals: his description is not correct. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 147 

from the river. The southern extremity is well 
defended by masses of granite, the alluvial deposit 
that collects behind them is guarded by masonry; 
here are some remnants of Egyptian temples, and 
among the varieties is a vine. On the right bank 
of the river is the town of Essouan—it is as vile as 
any other town, but the people are much happier, 
for there is not a soldier amongst them. On that 
account industry is for once to be discovered. 
Here is a small chamber of a temple, but the obser¬ 
vatory and Nilometer exist only in remembrance.* 
About three miles to the S. E. is a pillar of red gra¬ 
nite, bearing a Latin inscription. (See Belzoni.) 
The women of Essouan never leave their houses 
while the sun is up : before sunrise and after sunset 
they perform their avocations of fetching water. 
The male inhabitants are always armed with either 
gun, pistol, sword, dirk, lance, or bludgeon—every 
body has one or as many of these articles as he can 
get. An old fellow, named Boosnac, is nearly per¬ 
fect, having all these utensils in use, and together 

* The following is an extract from a letter written to me by 
Captain Gipps (Royal Engineers). “ It is since you were here, 

I believe, that the Nilometer has been discovered in the island of 
Elephantine. It is on a staircase going down to the Nile, and 
from which it would appear that the bed of the Nile has risen 
six or seven cubits, at least: for at the present moment, when 
the water is not far from its lowest ebb, the Nilometer makes it 
eleven cubits.” Assouan, March 25th, 1822.—See Appendix. 

L 2 


148 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


too—a walking armoury : besides all these weapons 
of offence, he has certain charms which he consi¬ 
ders as an infallible preservative against all assaults 
of the devil or man—in this respect they are su¬ 
perior to the print of the Virgin worn by the Mal¬ 
tese, or the coral attached to the neck or watch of 
the Neapolitan. Boosnac’s magical power is sewed 
up in bright red leather bags, and were mistaken 
by me for a chain of Bologna sausages; he calls 
them relics of Selim, and such confidence do they 
inspire, that he defied me to stab him, pretending 
to think that any blade would bend against his 
body. The dirks that the natives wear are used to 
goad asses with, and to the left arm of every male 
in the place is girded one of these useful articles. 
There is at this moment existing a feud between 
the inhabitants of Essouan and those of Shellaale, 
or the cataracts. They do not fight for any Chris¬ 
tian reason, the only trophies of a victory are 
heads—a party gone from this place has joined the 
battle, and is expected shortly to return, some 
with heads and some without. In our excursion 
to the pillar we were accompanied by an armed 
force, who amused themselves with a sham fight— 
some of the party cut the buttons from my coat, 
and stole my pocket-handkerchief in the most civil¬ 
ised manner. We are delayed here because my dra¬ 
goman is married to Miss Boosnac:—he has three 
other wives, and as he is in the habit of accom- 


THE OASIS B(ETUS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 149 

panying travellers up and down the river, he leaves 
them in his route to be at hand. A raggamuffin 
comes on board to make arrangements for passing 
the cataracts—he is to find ropes and men, and to 
receive fifty shillings—four times as much as he 
ought to have : however, I pity the poor fellow, 
his waistcoat is trimmed with mutton peel; observ¬ 
ing that I took notice of it, he told me with no 
little pride, that this sheep’s skin is the pelisse with 
which he was invested as cashiffj that he is gover¬ 
nor of Essouan, and that these are his court robes. 

The inhabitants of Elephantine differ materially 
from their neighbours, both in appearance and in 
manners. The “ fair sex” here are not afraid of 
the sun ; they are not even veiled, though, being as 
yet unaccustomed to Francs, they ran away at our 
approach, and one little girl drew another with her 
as if a broad wheeled waggon were coming. The 
walls are very convenient, not being above five feet 
high, so that upon our peeping over them, the 
young ladies became bolder. Their eyes are ex¬ 
pressive, their features handsome, their colour that 
which needs no art, their limbs graceful, and, like 
Thomson’s beauty unadorned, are unencumbered 
with clothes. The wardrobe of an Elephantine 
girl is comprised in a fringe of leather strings, 
which is girded round the lower waist, and in my 
wish to purchase a specimen of this wearing ap¬ 
parel, I experienced considerable difficulty in the 


150 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

attempt, and even danger in my success. Without 
any disparagement to beauty that in Europe I have 
gazed on with delight, I must still feel that there 
is among these sable nymphs that regularity of 
feature, that liquid lustre of the eye, that elegance 
of form, and that naivete of unsophisticated na¬ 
ture, which renders the island of Elephantine pre¬ 
ferable to the palace. 

The wind being fair, we send our luggage by 
land to the village of Shellaale—the reiss or cap¬ 
tain of the cataracts comes on board, and we leave 
Essouan. Granite islets become every moment 
more frequent and more boldly picturesque—the 
river assumes the appearance of a lake cradled in 
granite, the wild duck and heron are flying around, 
and the fisherman is diving or running about the 
rocks, or traversing the stream in every direction. 
His raft is the single trunk of a palm-tree, on 
which, though round, he contrives to sit, and even 
to rest his feet on it also. His bundle is on his 
head—his pipe in his mouth—his dirk tied to his 
arm, and paddling with his hands, he manages, not 
merely to retain his position, but even to ascend 
the stream. The river now forces its way between 
a small island and some blocks of granite, which 
cause a fall of two or three feet—this we have to 
pass—the crew put themselves in swimming order 
—not without their dirks—a rope is made fast to 
the boat, and the reiss, with the evolutions of a 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 


151 


feugalman, and the antics of a maitre de dance,gives 
the word of command to fifty fellows, who imme¬ 
diately commence crying out “ Hay-lay-essah.” 
Owing to very bad management we shipped a con¬ 
siderable quantity of water, to the everlasting in¬ 
jury of my hortus siccus. The surface of the 
stream, which has hitherto been rippled to the ex¬ 
tent of fifty yards, now becomes smooth. I ask 
where are the cataracts, and am informed that we 
have passed them—the cataracts of the Nile—the 
deafening warning of whose waters used to be heard 
to an incredible distance, but now they will not do 
me the favour to drown the voices of my boatmen. 
—The cataracts of the Nile are not more formid¬ 
able than London bridge. 

We landed at Shellaale—the natives of this place, 
and those who had come from Essouan, draw their 
swords, poise their lances, weild their bludgeons, 
and make a show of fight—we, who are strangers 
to the cause, are desired to withdraw, but interfere 
and adjust matters. These people have carried on 
the feud for generations, and even though Egypt 
and Nubia are now under one governor, they are 
still, in this instance, the borderers of hostile king¬ 


doms. 

Our crew are in high spirits, they are entering 
their own country, thinking that I must feel equal 
pleasure with themselves, they request me to pay 
for it—they commence a song, of which I can un- 


352 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

derstand but little except the words Tolooba and 
Nuba, and, “ Come love to the cataracts and you 
shall be clothed in Cashmere, Nubia is the land of 
roses.” 

The moon lights us on our way to Philoe. This 
island is covered with temples, columns, obelises, 
and other proofs of Egyptian zeal and labour, and 
I have already wandered twice round every part. 
Moonlight has a two-fold advantage, it increases 
beauty and hides defects—except of the three 
women who inhabit this island—these graces of 
Dunsinane soon discovered me—they are old, ugly, 
and cry becksheesh. 

The witches haunted me all night, in the morn¬ 
ing 1 found them muttering becksheesh. Here are 
temples, corridors, obelises, and sphinxes; each in¬ 
dividual part is good, but badly arranged—among 
thirty columns there are not two with capitals 
alike; that of the palm-leaf is the most elegant, but 
inferior to the Acanthus of the Greeks—a flight 
of steps here, as at Elephantine, descends to the 
river, and might serve the purpose of a Nilometer 
‘—the hieroglyphics are in general coarse, and seem 
like bad imitations of the Egyptian stile—spirited 
actions represented without life, or in clumsy har¬ 
lequinade—and the slender figure is metamorphosed 
into bloated vulgarity. Among the exceptions is 
Isis rising from a bowl; she holds a graduated 
staff, on which is suspended the key of the Nile— 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 1 53 

perhaps the Nilometer was like this. In contem¬ 
plating this figure I am happy to be reminded of the 
beautiful Venus Aphrodite at Florence. Here is a 
monolithic chapel; it resembles a confessional box, 
and in this some unfortunate sacred animal was 
cooped up as a prisoner to be worshipped as a god— 
an obelise only two feet five inches square, at the 
base; it is of stone, and on it is a Greek inscrip¬ 
tion. Egyptian obelises are large, and of granite— 
and it is further remarkable, that the only material 
at hand is granite. The primitive Christians have 
left proof of their zeal here : the French also have 
been here, and have engraven a record to their 
honour. The French army, under General Buo¬ 
naparte, beat and pursued the Mamelukes as far as 
the island of Philce. 


154 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XIV. 

NUBIA-DEBOOD-KARDASSY-KALEBSHY-DON- 

DOOR-GWERSH-HASSAN-DAKKY — KORTY — MA- 

HARRAG-SEBOUAH-DJIBEL ET TELLY-DEHR- 

THOOMOZ-IBR1M-ARNKY—EBSAMBAL. 

In a few minutes after leaving Philoe we landed at 
a mosque, from the minaret of which, according to 
the superstition of the natives, Mohammed shower¬ 
ed down destruction on the disbelievers of the 
neighbouring island: this is a various reading of 
the same allegory of Beybait.* As Mohammed 
professed to reform the Christians, so Sehoud, the 
Luther of the East, protests against the doctrine of 
Mohammed, and employs his adversary’s means of 
propagating his own opinions: at the head of the 
Wahabi he has already made such advances towards 
a radical reform, as nearly to have annihilated the 
Turks. He has carried his hatred so far as to tear 
open the grave of the most politic and most power¬ 
ful of sectarians that ever existed—the Napoleon 
in fanaticism—there are various dissenters among 
the followers of Mohammed, but in this land of 
ignorance I do not hear of any absurdity equal 


Page 32. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 155 

to Johanna Southcote, and the young Jewess who 
made a mistake and brought forth a girl . 

Six of the crew were preparing to take the boat 
in tow, but had scarcely stepped on shore for that 
purpose when the natives came down to warn them 
off, requesting them not to tread down their crops. 
The cultivated land at this place is about three 
yards in width—the boatmen return on board and 
renew the song of “ Nubia is the land of roses.” 

At Debood is a temple, small and unfinished, but 
neat: it was intended to have been of such conse¬ 
quence as to have had three propylons and two mo¬ 
nolithic chapels. Here we saw a coffin made of 
burnt earth—the color, thickness, and quality of 
tiles. 

Kardassy, a small elegant temple ; also one pil¬ 
lar of another, and the foundation of a third, by 
the walls of which last is circumscribed the whole 
of the modern village.—In the neighbourhood are 
quarries, Greek inscriptions, and mummy pits j the 
bodies are hard and dry, and look like figures make 
to suit painters or tailors. Two corpses lie exposed 
at the entrance without a rag on, but even in that 
respect they are not much worse off than the living. 
The name Kardassy is applied to about six miles 
extent of country, throughout which are visible the 
foundations of many buildings that would, if com¬ 
pleted, though not on a magnificent scale, like Ox¬ 
ford, have rendered it a city of temples. 


156 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

Kalebshy is a noble ruin; the massive propylon 
is the only part that has preserved its original form 
in spite of the attempts to render it picturesque by 
destruction. One of the chambers or courts is 
ninety-four feet long. Here is also to be seen a 
sepulchre, on the walls of which are represented a 
victory over Jews; the scene embraces various 
animals, greyhounds, apes, ostriches, gazelles, 
camel-leopards, lions, and oxen. 

At Dondoor is a small temple, dedicated to Isis, 
to whom the king or founder is offering two turtle¬ 
doves ; in the back ground is a figure in a robe-de- 
chambre, holding in one hand a dove, and with the 
other enjoining silence by pressing a finger on the 
lips; the border is a repetition of Isis apparently 
enceinte. 

Gwersh Hassan—here is an excavation in the 
mountain, on entering into which, the astonishment 
and delight that seizes your mind is equal to that 
which would be felt on entering a room twice as 
high as rooms generally are, and in which stand six 
giants, three times as tall as a tall man # ; they are 
drawn up in line, three on either side, but do not 
improve upon examination; for they are so ill pro¬ 
portioned that they appear to have been made by 
a stone-cutter’s journeyman, rather than by a sculp¬ 
tor ; the ancle is thirty-three inches in circumfe¬ 
rence, but the foot is only a yard long, and from the 

* More than eighteen feet high. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 157 

sole to the knee it is scarcely more. While we were 
employed in examining this temple, the natives 
stopped the entrance, crying out becksheesh; we 
had been so provident as to bring with us whips 
and fire-arms, the mere sight of the latter super¬ 
seded the necessity of paying ransom; but the Nu¬ 
bians are very different from the Arab fellahs, for 
instead of taking an application of the whip with¬ 
out a murmur, they drew forth their swords and 
lances, and raised the war-cry. Our boat was for¬ 
tunately near at hand, and we jumped on board. 

Dakky—over one of the doors, is an inscription 
in hieroglyphical characters, accompanied by one 
in Enchorial # . The early Christian missionaries 
have had possession of this temple, and turned out 
the Egyptian Apis ; but it is now a den of thieves. 

Korty—the temple here is so small, that a cow 
in search of shelter from the evening chill, is in vain 
endeavouring to force herself in; the fabric is pro¬ 
bably dedicated to a cow goddess. 

Maharrag—more temples. 

Sebouah—-more temples. To waste time at these 
temples, after having seen Dendera, Thebes, Esneh, 
Edfou, and Philoe, would be like examining a vil¬ 
lage church, after St. PauPs, Westminster Abbey, 
and York cathedral. The stone employed at Se¬ 
bouah, is so soft, that the hieroglyphics are defaced 

* This inscription has been since noticed by Dr. Young, in his 
work on Hieroglyphic Literature. P. 29. 


158 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


by time; this is the only place where time has done 
so much as Messrs. * # * 

Djibel et Telly—the rocks assume a feature al¬ 
together new; they become bold, pointed, and pic¬ 
turesque, but the country produces nothing spon¬ 
taneously, except rock; yet even here are those 
who sing of the land of roses; the soil on which 
grow their corn and tobacco, is borrowed for the 
occasion from the river: the inhabitants are re¬ 
duced to the necessity of building their houses of 
stone, for stone is cheaper than dirt. 

We now behold several acres of cultivated land, 
a vine, a lemon-tree, and a grove of palms, a quan¬ 
tity of houses, a mosque, and two boats, in short, 
—Dehr,—the capital of Nubia. A village, con¬ 
tains in general about four or five houses, and as 
many inhabitants, but here the garrison alone con¬ 
sists of ten men and a boy, including officers and 
supernumeraries. A very short time has elapsed 
since this place boasted of its own king. The Pasha 
of Egypt drove the poor Caractacus from his throne 
of mud, and, with ten soldiers, holds military pos¬ 
session of the territory—not that the Nubians want 
the will to resist, but because resistance would be 
useless; they did commence rebellion, and mur¬ 
dered three messengers sent to collect the taxes. 
The Pasha put thirty of the natives to death, and 
Nubia is now dependant upon Egypt. Immediately 
on our arrival at Dehr, a man came on board to 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 159 

know what present we had brought for the go- 
vernor—a governor under the porte is dressed in 
very brief authority, and, therefore, while in office, 
rackrents to the utmost of his power, and thinks 
that he has as much right to a present, on being 
visited, as a boy at Eton has to a “pouch.” I had 
carried with me shawls, soap, coffee-cups, and gun¬ 
powder, but not submitting to the system of giving 
upon compulsion, I determined to render the cus¬ 
tom nugatory, and this I made the messenger fully 
to understand. Presently another man came on 
board, bringing a plate of parched dourrha, and 
seemed determined not to go till he had received 
a present. I tendered him a bit of soap, such as I 
thought his Meanness would just accept: he, how¬ 
ever, spurned it with contempt; and I then offered 
to give him—a passage to Ibrim, and desired the 
reiss to Jet go the boat; he now begged for the soap, 
and I reduced my previous offer to one-half: this 
he took, hid it in his sleeve, and departed. Soap 
is of great consideration in this country, and is an 
appendage to the title of one of the kings of Ethi¬ 
opia: instead of calling him the most August Ma¬ 
jesty, he is styled King Soap—Sultan Saboon.— 
The antiquities at Dehr consist of a temple and 
sepulchral chamber, excavated in the mountain. 

Thoomoz.—At this village we were desired to 
go and look at some hieroglyphics—they were once 
scratched in the rocks, and are now scratched out. 


160 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

As we approach towards Ibrim we behold a lofty 
rock rising abruptly from the water’s edge, and 
crowned by a ruined castle ; after a very fatiguing 
ascent we arrive at the top, and find that the pic¬ 
turesque illusion is formed by hovels, and these are 
deserted; for who would live in such a place? Even 
the temple builders, hitherto indefatigable, have 
left only a door-way, on which the winged globe 
was about to be begun. St. John is here painted 
by the early Christians, and is in solitary possession 
of this wilderness. We marched up the hill, and 
then—but I know of few hills except Vesuvius, 
Etna, and the Righi that have satisfied me for the 
trouble of ascending. 

Arnky is a village that deserves to be mentioned, 
because the houses stand in straight lines, and there 
are two of them, having each a room above the 
ground-floor: notwithstanding the peculiar atten¬ 
tion that has been paid to the construction of this 
place, the population amounts to only two living 
souls, and these are Mohammedan women. 

Ebsambal is the ne-plus- ultra of Egyptian labour, 
and is in itself an ample recompense for my jour¬ 
ney. There is no temple of either Thebes, Den- 
dera, or Philce, that can be put in competition with 
it: the first objects of admiration are six gigantic 
statues * sculptured in relief on the mountain rock ; 
they are standing upright, with their arms hanging 

* Thirty feet high—Belzoni. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINM, ETC. l6l 

stiffly by their side; beneath each hand is also an 
upright figure; and these figures that appear like 
children in the hands of giants are seven feet high: 
picture to yourself then the six larger statues of 
such a size that a man who exhibits himself at three- 
ha’pence per foot would scarcely stand higher than 
the knee. The statues of the neighbouring temple 
are much larger, and are on a scale of nearly 70 feet, 
or equal to nine copies of the Irish Giant* placed 
in a perpendicular line. Unfortunately, the moun¬ 
tain is not of sufficient height to render these co¬ 
lossi erect: they are therefore represented sitting; 
and there are still more serious defects attending 
them—one is entirely destroyed, and two, in con¬ 
sequence of the accumulation of sand, are buried 
up to their necks; still a sufficiency is seen to con¬ 
vey an idea of their magnitude t. The sand has co¬ 
vered up the door-way ; and the natives inform me 
that it will be a labour of thirty men, and twelve 
days, to effect an entrance. To prove that they 
are not to be believed, I forced in a pole, round 

* One Mr. O’Brien. > 

f “ There are four enormous sitting Colossi, the largest in 
Egypt or Nubia, except the great Sphinx at the Pyramids, to 
which they approach in the proportion of near two-thirds; from 
the shoulder to the elbow they measure fifteen feet six inches; 
the ears three feet six inches; the face seven feet; the beard five 
feet six inches; across the shoulders twenty-five feet four inches; 
their height is about fifty-one feet, not including the caps which 
are about fourteen feet.”— Belzoni. 


M 


162 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

this I wound a sheet, and having spread another 
upon the surface of the sand, to prevent it from 
flowing down upon us, we succeeded, after seven 
hours’ exertion, in constructing a kind of wind- 
sail, or chimney: by means of this I entered, and 
immediately beheld eight majestic statues, whose 
size, when compared with that of man, and still 
more magnified by the dimness that surrounds them, 
calls upon me to corroborate the reports in favour 
of this temple above all others. These Atlases 
support the roof, and, ranged four on either side, 
they form a guard of honour for you to pass. I 
very soon found it necessary to reduce my habili¬ 
ments to a pocket-handkerchief, for the heat equals 
at least that of a Turkish vapour-bath, or the solfa 
terra at Puzzuoli—my clothes are dripping wet, 
and my body is flowing away like Proteus. Among 
the hieroglyphics I found several of interest, for 
though the softness of the material will not allow 
that firm fine line which is observable on granite, 
it admits of a greater freedom of execution: even 
the designs vary in some respects from the same¬ 
ness that pervades the works in Egypt. Here is 
a hero in his chariot with his bow drawn, the hawk 
of Osiris hovering over him, like an eagle over a 
Roman victor. Chariots are clashing against cha¬ 
riots, and horses are represented falling, but falling 
as if from heaven perpendicularly, like Phaeton’s 
—here is a warrior lancing another in single com- 




























































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the oasis bceris, mount sinai, etc. 163 

bat, and this is the only instance in which I have 
ever observed that the victor has had an adversary 
that he ought not to be ashamed of. The statues, 
like those of Osiris at the Memnonium, have their 
arms crossed upon their breast, holding in one hand 
a tau, and in the other a flagellum. Some of the 
designs are similar to those in the tombs of the 
kings, and in other places; such as the deity wel¬ 
coming the hero, and the victor slaying a bundle 
of his enemies, raising a falchion in one hand, and 
with the other holding the hair of their heads; 
but in this instance he adds his bow at the same 
time. Among the sacrifices is that of sheep to 
Osiris Bull. In the last chamber are four statued 
figures, in front of whom is an altar, on which is 
engraven a small tablet of hieroglyphics. I had 
amused myself here for four hours when I began 
to think of making my escape, which is not so easy 
as entering. I had to work against the stream, 
and I found that the difficulty increased in propor¬ 
tion to my exertions ; for where-ever I forced my 
knee, it undermined the sand, which straightforth 
poured down as subtle as quicksilver. My drago¬ 
man (Mohammed) who had been in this temple 
with Mr. Banks, declined entering with me, think¬ 
ing it more for my safety that he should remain 
on the outside to prevent any one from running 
up and giving motion to the sand: he now came 
forward, and with great exertion managed to draw 
m 2 


164 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

me through* Here I found a Russian colonel 
very impatient and very angry at having been stop¬ 
ped. He went to the entrance, and returned im¬ 
mediately fully satisfied—the aperture was not 
large enough for him. My Maltese servant and 
two others went in, and there was really no dan¬ 
ger, for had the sand descended, the windsail would 
have supplied them with air, and they would have 
been dug out in a fortnight. I shall hence turn 
my boat northward, as I am engaged to meet you 
on the Troad, and am well contented to finish my 
journey in this part, with having seen the noblest 
monument of antiquity that is to be found on the 
banks of the Nile . 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 165 


CHAPTER XV. 

OF THE NUBIAN. 

The Nubian is slender but gracefully made, his 
beauty, like that of a statue, never changes, and he 
is entirely free from fat: this is the more fortunate, 
as he is frequently naked:—a publican, or a coach¬ 
man would make but an inelegant figure in a state 
of nudity. Many a Nubian who pretends to decency 
ties a cord round his waist, and on this is hung a 
screen of grass, but long before evening the grass is 
dried up and withered. He is as fond as the Arab 
is of becksheesh, and when he does ask, he asks 
like the beggar in Gil Bias, putting you in fear 
of your life; he places his spear close to your 
breast, and is unwilling to remove it, until either 
his demand is complied with or till he sees fire 
arms. He is as afraid as Junius of gunpowder, 
and he knows that the length of a bullet is beyond 
that of the arma bianca. He is, however, bolder 
than the Arab, which is owing to his freedom; at 
least it is but lately that Nubia has been subdued. 
The fellahs, when I have been shooting, have run 
away eight or ten together; but the Nubian,though 
alone, has unslung his spear and maintained his 
ground. The Arab is so completely in dread of 


166 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


the Pasha that he never carries his natural propen¬ 
sities beyond robbery, but the Nubian does not 
hesitate to commit murder. Three men at the ca¬ 
taracts killed a traveller whom they asked to sup¬ 
per: a breach of hospitality unknown among the 
Bedouins or freebooters of the desert. We were 
constantly obliged to keep a night watch, and were 
once alarmed by sundry voices issuing from under 
cover and commanding us to send some of our 
party on shore, to this we replied that we were 
prepared with fire arms and would shoot the first 
man who would do us the favour to show himself. 
At another time when I had wandered out of sight 
of my boat, and alone, four men tried to intercept 
me, and I eluded them only by a feint. In our 
voyage through Egypt I desired one of the crew 
who had been accustomed to cater for us, to go to 
a neighbouring village for provisions; he begged 
to decline it, as the last time that he had been there 
he had killed two Arabs. This confession did not 
excite the least sensation among his countrymen, 
though among themselves, retaliation, the most 
natural law of man, is in full force. We found a 
party of forty men seated in a circle, by each of 
whom were spears stuck into the ground, and a 
sword and shield. Two shekhs or elders were car¬ 
rying on the debate, by which it appeared that the 
inhabitants of one village had murdered three of 
another. The elder on one side was endeavouring 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 167 

to keep the peace and to arrange a price for the 
offence, but the other seemed determined to pro¬ 
secute with the utmost rigour of the lex talionis, 
and to have blood for blood.—The compensation 
is sometimes made with money, but even in that 
uase it is soon found that the feud is not quelled. 
—The Nubians of our crew are far too merciful 
when they should not be so: as soon as the sun 
has sufficiently warmed the atmosphere, every man 
takes off his clothes and commences a search after 
certain little animals that abound greatly in this 
country, and in which he is consequently very 
successful. When he catches any of the vermin, 
as he is forbidden to put them to death, he throws 
them into the river or gives them to the winds, and 
therefore often to his neighbour, so that the hunt 
is renewed day after day with equal success. We 
once saw a snake in our path, one of the men threw 
a stone at it, which nearly severed the head from 
the body, I desired him to put the poor animal out 
of its misery, which he refused, alleging that it 
would be wicked to deprive it of life. The natives 
of Egypt are particularly merciful to all animals, as 
if it were a continuation of the ancient custom 
of the country, and it might almost be looked upon 
as a species of worship. It certainly is not so ridi¬ 
culous as to see people of consequence in Rome 
go on St. Anthony’s day in their coaches and six 
to have their horses blessed!—The sprinkling holy 


168 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

water over these and other animals fills up three 
days in the year to please St. Anthony and the 
pigs. 

The Nubian is so uncourteous that he will 
scarcely return the salutation of a Franc, or when 
he does grumble out “ Alekum Salamm,” he adds 
also “ now be off with you, don’t look at our wo¬ 
men.” If he happens to deviate from this sulki¬ 
ness, it is because he has experienced the liberality 
of travellers, and then he runs up with all the inte¬ 
rest of a Je suis charme, exclaiming, Salam alekum 
howbahbe, howbahbe, tyebbint, tyeb, tyeb, wallah 
tyeb,—becksheesh mah feesh? “ Health to you, 
welcome, welcome, are you well, very well, exceed¬ 
ingly well, well by G— Is there is no becksheesh 
for me?” I never could ascertain upon what plea 
they demand money, unless it is, that I having 
come upon their land, am therefore liable to an ac¬ 
tion for trespass. In passing a village we observed 
several women in line, carrying each a platter. 
Upon inquiry we learnt that news had just arrived 
of the death of a man belonging to the place, 
and these people were going to assist at the ululu; 
as it is the custom at a wake to eat as well as ad¬ 
minister consolation, and the widow in this case 
happened to be too poor to treat her friends, every 
one who went to weep carried a plate of provisions 
to the pic nic. We met a party returning from a 
wedditig, the bride and bridegroom were brother 


THE OASIS BCER1S, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 169 

and sister. The Nubians who, inasmuch as they 
are not restrained by civil liberty, are not far 
removed from brute nature, are yet not so much 
the children of Adam, but that they reprobated 
this incestuous alliance. Our crew were tolerably 
well behaved, and would sometimes amuse us with 
gymnastic exercises, or with a naumachia; a party 
would leap into the river, each man would fix 
upon his adversary, swim towards him till he came 
within leg’s length, and then turning sharp round, 
and throwing his head under water and his foot 
into the air, would endeavour to effect a blow with 
his heel. 

Among the most remarkable animals of Nubia 
are the locusts, that eat up every thing, and the 
scarabee or beetle that seems to live where there 
never was any thing to eat. I have seen the latter 
crawling over a plain of sand, at a long journey 
either from the river or vegetation. These extra¬ 
ordinary offspring of the sun might almost have 
been worshipped by the Egyptians on that account 
alone. The apples that “ turn to ashes on the lips” 
flourish on the sands in the vicinity of the Nile— 
they are compared by a modern poet, to the plea¬ 
sures of this world—the same comparison was made 
by Foulcher de Chartres seven hundred years ago 

_they do certainly look tempting—as the fruit of 

the tree of knowledge—but you can scarcely 
touch them so lightly that the bitterness will 


170 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


not be communicated—it adheres to the nails as 
the taste of an onion to the knife—this hap¬ 
pens when green and full of juice—when ripe 
there is nothing found in them but seeds black 
and bitter—they grow after the nature of melons 
and you would call them such were you to see 
them in their native beds—but when plucked, be¬ 
ing only the size of oranges, skin smooth, almost 
unmarked—quite green, and apparently to be eaten 
as apples, they might be mistaken for, and acquire 
that name—the Solanum Melongena of Linnaeus 
—or, as you will find it at your chemist’s, the Co- 
locynthia.—There is another fruit of the same na¬ 
ture that disputes the title—and acquires it too, in 
the opinion of Seetzen and Chateaubriand—see 
the description given by them. 

At Amala (Hesaiah) were some curious birds, of 
which I shot one, and the cries that its widowed mate 
poured forth were truly piteous, even more so than 
those of a wounded hare ; notwithstanding my de¬ 
sire of bringing home three copies of every bird, I 
limited my number in this case to two. We found 
many partridges, doves, and sparrows with pink 
plumage—the rocks are of the same colour, and 
this is meant for a defence given to them by Pro¬ 
vidence. The partridges run about close to the 
houses, and are very unwilling to get on wing, 
they seem not to know that they are most excel¬ 
lent eating. The land of Nubia is never blessed 


THE OASIS BCERISj MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 171 

with dew, and rain is almost unknown. As irri¬ 
gation is therefore needed, the creaking pot-mill 
or Persian wheel is kept in constant use, and never 
ceases even at night, except when fae moor near 
to one, and then the frightened owner drives away 
his cow, and leaves us to a night’s rest. The lo¬ 
custs often make great destruction among the ver¬ 
dure, and in one place we found that a quantity of 
these animals had taken possession of everything 
green, the husbandman was smoking them out of 
the trees, and eating them in self defence,—no more 
taste than an insipid waxy potato. The locust is 
a grasshopper about three inches in length, having 
wings ; it is as large as the golden wren; a stran¬ 
ger, especially if expecting humming birds, might 
easily mistake them. The mornings and evenings 
are so cold, that at one time all our crew were on 
the sick list, and it invariably requires considerable 
exertion to persuade them to leave their morning 
fire. Stone breakwaters are thrown into the river 
to protect the soil; notwithstanding these, the cul¬ 
tivation is so limited that not a morsel of bread is to 
be bought in Nubia; and yet Nubia is, in the opi¬ 
nion of Nubians, the land of roses. Goldsmith 
has well expressed the feeling of every man towards 
his home; and that country must be really beau¬ 
tiful which is to be preferred to one’s own. 

Among the amusements are rope-dancers and 
story-tellers: of the former I saw a strolling com- 


172 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

pany at Dehr, and of the latter there is one at every 
village; he is the oracle of the conversazione, and goes 
about like a circulating library. Frequently when 
we moored for the evening, one of these Arabian en¬ 
tertainers used to come on board to amuse the crew. 
The most popular subject is a history of the adven¬ 
tures and miracles of Mohammed—it is by no means 
uncommon to see a crowd collected round one of 
these historians in the open spaces in Cairo and 
other towns, like round a ballad-singer in London 
—this custom holds in Naples also, and to its pre¬ 
valence in Ireland and Scotland we are probably 
indebted for Ossian’s poems. Whenever the sail¬ 
ors were called upon to use their oars, the reiss 
was obliged to give out a song, which he did, line 
by line, and the crew joined in chorus, con am ore. 
All animals are inspired by music, and even these 
discordant attempts have their effect, though they 
are sad variations from the evening song on board 
a Sicilian sparonaro. The newest and favourite 
words in present use relate to a female of the name 
of Gemella, who complained to the judge that her 
husband had forsaken her, but being unable to ob¬ 
tain redress, she ran away with a soldier, singing 
at the same time, 

We were married, you have broken the contract. 

Justice, Gemella! sweet Gemella! 

You have taken another, what have you found more than me? 

Justice, Gemella! sweet Gemella! 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 173 


I placed silk for you, what has the other placed, 

Justice, Gemella! &c. 

I love you, but you do not love me. 

Justice, Gemella! &c. 

If you look in my eyes you will see that I love you, 

I ask my heart why you have left me. 

In the clear fountain I have seen my beloved, 

My eyes are black, and my eyebrows are like the caroobole, 

I drink only brandy, I do not drink wine. 

But if I do drink wine, what is that to any one ? 

Justice, Gemella! sweet Gemella! 

They sometimes sing to the air of “ Marlbrook,”* 
and “ Life let us cherish,” which though they sel¬ 
dom fail, are not so undeniable an appeal to my 
generosity as “ God save the King.” Surely the 
man, imprisoned as it were, in a strange land, like 
the unfortunate Richard, must either have no 
music in his soul, or no becksheesh in his pocket, 
who could listen unmoved to an air that reminds 
him of his childhood and his home. 

* These airs are the legacy of the French. 


174 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA* 


CHAPTER XVI. 

DESCEND TO PHILCE-GRANITE QUARRIES—DERAHVY' 

SLAVES — TAKROURI-ARRIVAL AT ESNEH—DE¬ 

PARTURE FOR THE OASIS. 

We stopped two days at Philoe in our descent, in 
spite of the three old women ; and there being no¬ 
thing in the cataracts that required a second visit, 
I went by land to Essouan ; the distance is about 
six miles, and for the greater part of it the remnant 
of a wall is visible: this is thought to be an aque¬ 
duct, and it might seem extraordinary to have one 
so near the river, but the neighbouring rocky banks 
render the difficulties of obtaining water almost in¬ 
surmountable. There is still a tub by the way side 
for the accommodation of the traveller, and this is 
guarded and paid for. In our route we visited the 
granite quarries, whence were cut the obelises of 
Egypt: there is one on the spot, prostrate, un¬ 
finished and broken : and even in this state it de¬ 
mands more attention than many that are erect. 
As soon as we arrived at Essouan, our crew resolved 
to leave us ; they had performed their engagement 
of passing the cataracts, but were determined not 
to return to Cairo on account of the plague: in 
this there is a prudent difference between the Nu- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 175 

bian, and the Turk and Arab. After some demur 
we agreed to give them their liberty at Esneh, or, 
as soon as we should be able to press others into 
our service. 

At Derahvy we were informed that a caravan 
had just arrived, with gum, ostrich feathers, and 
slaves ; the latter are registered at this place as soon 
as they are brought into Egypt, and a poll-tax is 
paid to the Pasha; it is one of the largest and 
cheapest human Smithfields in the kingdom. The 
price of a slave varies from seven to twenty-five 
pounds; they are allowed to bask during the day 
in a walled court-yard, and at night they are distri¬ 
buted among the cottages like a subscription pack 
of hounds. The whipper-in carried a caravash or 
thong, made of the rhinoceros's hide, an instrument 
too cruel to beat even a donkey with, and swishing 
this about in a masterly manner, he accompanied 
me to the kennel: here we found a squattee 
of young ladies in circle; in the centre was a 
broken bowl, and into this they were all dipping 
their fingers, with as much greediness as if it was 
hasty-pudding. My nose soon informed me that it 
was grease; and the merchant tells me that it is 
the luxury of women, and consolation even to a 
slave ; with this they besmear themselves from head 
to toe, and glisten in the sun like a newly-varnished 
picture; they were so pleased with the fat, that 
they paid but little attention to the dealer as he 



176 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


pointed out the peculiar beauties of each. Some 
were tattoed like the aboriginal Britons, and some 
had their faces cut like crimped skate; she is con¬ 
sidered most ornamented who uses most grease; 
and she that does not smell offensively is looked 
upon as a sloven. There was one of the party who, 
though she took her share of this finery and play¬ 
thing of a savage, seemed but little pleased with it: 
she was pretty, sorrowful, and interesting—her 
price seventeen guineas. With the hope of finding 
an opportunity to send her to her home, I paid the 
money, and gave the maiden her liberty. The bar¬ 
gain was no sooner agreed to, than the vender 
shook his caravash over her head, and commanded 
her to conduct herself in such a manner that she 
should not be returned upon the market as un¬ 
sound; the girl came forward, kissed my hand, 
and, without saying a word to any one, she ran to 
hide herself in the boat. There was something 
perfectly unaccountable in her silence: she went 
away without speaking to those who spoke her own 
language*, and were natives of her own country; 
and without even bidding farewell to any of those 
companions in misery that had been her associates 
in the most tedious journey that is known of in 
the vale of tears, those whom she left still in chains, 
and whom she might never behold again! 

The merchant warrants that a slave shall not 

* They do not speak the common Arabic. 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 177 

snore, nor be guilty of many other desagremens of 
nature ; but nothing so ridiculous as that by the 
old Welch laws, a divorce might be obtained for 
an offensive breath—and that in the land of leeks. 

On joining the boat, my first object was to in¬ 
form the girl, that she was no longer a slave; she 
burst into tears ; and when I told her that I would 
send her back to her own country, she redoubled 
her sorrow . All the sufferings that she had under¬ 
gone in traversing the desert presented themselves 
before her, and she told me that she had rather die 
than go back, and “if you give me what you call 
liberty, you will throw me adrift upon the world, 
and who will take care of me ; there will be nobody 
obliged to support me, and what shall I do?” Here 
she renewed her lamentations so earnestly, that I 
promised her she should remain a slave . 

The fact is that the slave is much better off than 
the Arab fellah ; the latter is governed by a des¬ 
pot, the former is under the care of a master who 
remembers how much he paid for him, and that he 
may sell him again, he therefore treats him (I mean 
no contempt by the comparison) as well as a fa¬ 
vourite dog or horse. 

Liberty is of no use to a female in particular, 
unless married; and generally after a few years’ 
servitude, a husband and portion are given to the 
well conducted; the female slave seldom deserts 
her master, though dying under the most dangerous 


N 


178 a VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

and most infectious of all diseases, the plague: they 
are weaned from a wish of returning across the de¬ 
sert, by the constant danger and privations that 
they have endured in coming; they have seen their 
companions fall a prey to heat, thirst, and ill-usage, 
and they have at the same time been deterred from 
quitting the caravan, by stories of cannibals. 

Natural children in Darfour, instead of being 
sent to a foundling hospital, become the property 
of the king; tythes and taxes are partly paid in 
flesh, and the revenue is in some measure derived 
like a horse-breeder’s income. The scars and tat¬ 
tooing I imagine to be often done by parents, who 
might possibly conceive the idea of again beholding 
and recognizing their children; a rencontre of this 
kind lately took place in Cairo, and it happened 
that the son had money sufficient to buy his mo¬ 
ther according to valuation, but the master refused 
to sell the woman, and the parties appealed to the 
judge, who gave it in favor of the mother and son. 
I never saw but three instances of real slavery. We 
met a very fine young man sauntering along the 
desert, and soon after saw two fellows armed with 
spears, tracking him as they would vermin; at an¬ 
other time, we passed a number of slaves being 
driven like cattle to a merchant’s house for inspec¬ 
tion ; and the third case was the bargaining for an 
athletic man as a water-carrier, like a camel. A 
slave may be bought and sold fifty times over, but 


Me oasis qceris, mount sinai, etc. I79 

lie will only serve whom he pleases; and when once 
he refuses his work, he is immediately sent to the 
market, like a restive horse to Tattersall’s. In my 
visits to the okeil I was generally hooted and dri¬ 
ven out by a set of people as happy and impudent 
as beggars in prison. 

One evening after sun-set, being at a little dis¬ 
tance from my boat, I saw five human beings hud¬ 
dled together in a hole, apparently for concealment. 
Approaching towards them, I found that they were 
Takrouri or pilgrims from the interior of Africa. 
They had nestled together to keep themselves 
warm, and being without food, that they might 
sleep, judging by the example of hungry dogs, that 
sleep is as good as its synonym in Gaelic, “ half 
my meat.” These poor wretches, according to 
the best of their calculation, had already been six 
months on the road towards Mecca. The town 
from which they came is called Condjairah, and in 
their route they had passed by Sennaar, Darfour 
and Dongola. They had descended by the (river) 
Bahr el Lis to the Nile, and were following the 
stream to Cairo; their language is Arabic, they can 
all write, and benefitting by their national schools, 
the poorest Takrouri is more accomplished than a 
rich Turk; they are the gypsies among Egyptians, 
and subsist by dealing in charms. One of these 
charms written for me, consists in an enumeration 
of names, and in return for which I gave them fuel, 
n 2 


180 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

biscuits, and sixpence each; the poor wretches were 
in ecstasies and rendered thanks to the prophet— 
not to me—because I was only a Christian and an 
instrument in the hand of Mohammed. There are 
a great many Takrouri, who lose a considerable part 
of their lives in going pilgrimages. They are 
protected by their poverty; they obtain a liveli¬ 
hood by writing charms, and religion carries them 
through fatigue. 

The common people hold no reckoning of years; 
and a man, when asked his age, generally dates it 
from the epoch of the French being in Egypt; “ I 
was so big when the French were here; or, I was 
not born.” They measure time by the foot, a very 
easy and simple method, when once it has been as¬ 
certained what proportion in length the foot bears 
to the shadow at mid-day. A watch is looked upon 
as a very great curiosity. The art of clockmaking 
was introduced into Spain by the Moors. They 
also measure distance by a pipe—it will take the 
smoking of so many pipes to go such a distance. 

We were no sooner arrived at Esneh, than I de¬ 
termined upon an excursion to the Oasis, and be¬ 
ing in want of some paras, was happy to find a 
banker,—he is particularly civil, and immediately 
offered to become responsible for the whole bazaar 
if I chose to take it; and as to money, he would 
be glad to let me have as much as I pleased, if he 
had any, but at present he can only supply me with 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 181 

the currency of idiots, promises of to-morrow—to¬ 
morrow does come, and the promises are protested. 
I was detained here five days in this manner, dur¬ 
ing which he invited me to supper, and my drago¬ 
man was also asked; we were ushered into a small 
room, which was made to answer all the purposes 
of a house, it was bed-room, dining-room, drawing¬ 
room, and larder. Pipes were served up first, pre¬ 
sently came a slave with a basin and caraft of wa¬ 
ter, and a towel thrown over his shoulder. When 
we had all washed our hands, a stool was placed 
in the middle, and on this a tray with as many 
spoons and breads as there were guests. We took 
our places round it on the floor, and a bowl of 
soup was brought in; it was no sooner put down 
than the spoons came into play, and in such rapid 
succession, that the soup was finished in a few se¬ 
conds. Although every body ate from the bowl, 
there was yet that kind of decency observed, that 
there never was a spoon out of turn, nor a second 
one in use at the same time with another, except 
that of my neighbour. The second course was a 
quarter of lamb, and any body present would soon 
perceive the inutility of knives and forks ; my host 
and my neighbour immediately seized it in oppo¬ 
site directions, and after pulling hard for the prize, 
a glorious trophy remained in the hands of each; 
these again by strength and dexterity of finger, 
were carved in such a manner that not two bones 


182 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


remained together, and the second course was 
likewise finished with the same greedy diligence as 
the first; and in like manner of several others. 
The basin and water were again handed round, 
and our pipes relighted. My host whispered to me 
dolefully that the roisting rutterkin was a common 
soldier who had come with an order for his pay, 
but there being no money in the treasury, he had 
forcibly billetted himself upon the firm. On taking 
leave I was followed to the boat by the servant for 
becksheesh : obsolete as the system of vales is be¬ 
come in England, and general as it is here, it is in 
no place carried to such extent as in Italy. I have 
known in Rome a servant go to a house for a re- 
galo because his master had conferred an honour 
by going there to supper. 

During my detainure at Esneh, I dined with 
the governor one morning at half-past eleven ; the 
dinner was on the same plan, but proportionally 
better than the banker’s supper. I should be guilty 
of great injustice towards the governor were I not 
to mention his delicacy in not asking for a present, 

*—he only sent a servant to show me something 
that had been given to him by a Franc. 

At Esneh is a slave merchant, who is renowned 
for being as good as it is possible for a slave mer¬ 
chant to be. Hearing that he possessed a female 
valued so high as thirty pounds, I begged permis¬ 
sion to look at her, this he positively refused, and 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 183 

told me candidly, that he, as a Mohammedan, was 
one of the lords of the creation, and that I, as a 
Christian, was but a slave myself, and on that ac¬ 
count he could not show me his stock; but that if 
I would pretend to be a Turk, by putting on the 
dress, he would let me see her by accident. He 
accordingly led me to the basking place, and hid¬ 
ing himself behind a pillar, pointed her out to me. 
I confess that I saw nothing worth thirty pounds, 
or any thing superior to the generality of slaves, 
unless she was sold by weight, and this was so far 
the case that she was valued by her fat. This man 
imports his own slaves, and frequently goes to 
Dongola ; he offered to escort me there and back 
for ten dollars, and to ensure my life. The fact 
is, that there is no danger, at least, I believe not ; 
and if there were, an opportunity now presents it¬ 
self of accompanying the army. The Pasha in¬ 
formed me of his intention to send into the far 
countries,—he says, to procure men for the culti¬ 
vation of Egypt—others say that his object is to 
search for gold mines: there is now here an Ita¬ 
lian who had been sent forward to explore—he re¬ 
turned unsuccessful: this man was formerly esta¬ 
blished at Milan as an apothecary—not an alchy- 
myst. The soldiers of the expedition are daily ar¬ 
riving; however I shall not go, for I am very 
incredulous as to Meroe: I have no intention of 
writing a book, and as to pleasure I have had quite 


134 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


enough of it; that is, I had once intended to fol¬ 
low the example of my Nubians, and not to de¬ 
scend to Cairo till the season of infection should be 
terminated; but now that I have staid five days in 
Esneh, I would rather pass through the city of the 
plague, than “ reign in this horrible place”. 

The Almah come frequently on board my boat, 
and seeing that the ornaments of their heads con¬ 
sist in pieces of money, I have desired the bank¬ 
rupt to borrow them, which he engages to do against 
my return from the Oasis, in the mean time he has 
made every necessary arrangement for the camels, 
and given me a little pocket money. As my in¬ 
tended route has not been travelled for many years, 
except lately by three Englishmen, it is judged 
more advisable that I should change my Franc 
dress for a Turkish. The former is certainly more 
respected where it is known, but the latter excites 
less observation: I therefore submit quietly to the 
barber, my head is shaved, excepting that the lock 
of hair, by which the Mussulman is to be drawn 
up into heaven, is duly left in the centre, and, 
having already given my razors a long vacation, I 
show a respectable Hebrew beard. 


THE OASIS BCEIUS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 185 


CHAPTER XVII. 

THE OASIS BCERIS*. 

25th Feb. —The banker has provided me with five 
camels, a certain stock of rice, biscuits, and coffee, 
and four goat-skins for water. The animal that is 
to carry me, is so obliging as to kneel down, with¬ 
out which complaisance, or a ladder, I should never 
be able to get upon his back ; but the moment he 
feels a foot over him, he springs up, and leaves me 
on the ground. The Arabs laugh, and tell me that 
this is the usual commencement. 

Our route lies alongside the river as far as Dji- 
belein, twelve miles N. of Esneh, and at this place 
we suffer our first stoppage. We were detained 
here four hours, for no visible reason, till supper 
came : this consisted of bread, soup, rice, roast 
chickens, and vegetables, all mixed together in a 
large wooden bowl. I offered becksheesh to my 
host, but he declared, that it would be shameful to 
receive pay *, at the same moment my hand opened, 
and the sum of three shillings became visible ; this 
was irresistible, and my friend accepted the money 
in opposition to his conscience—it is the value of a 
sheep. 

* For a description of the other Oases, see a work published 
by Sir Archibald Edmonstone, Bart. 


186 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


At length the water-skins are filled, I am safely 
mounted, and we make a second start. Our route 
W. across a flat sandy plain, on which, at the end 
of three hours’ march, we halted for the night. 
Here the Arabs performed vespers, and there being 
no water to spare for their ablutions, they went 
through that part of the ceremony with sand*. 
The sand is very soft, the sky bright, and I slept 
very comfortably sub Dio. 

26th Feb.—Within three hours after midnight, 
we had resumed our journey, and continuing our 
route W. ascend the Libyan chain, at about 24 
miles’ distance from the river. At mid-day we 
halted for an hour, and, in the course of the after¬ 
noon, came to a quantity of broken pottery, such 
as generally indicates an ancient site ; it is distant 
about fifteen hours from the Nile, and I should 
imagine it to have been a “ station.” At seven 
o’clock we finished our day’s work: the camels 
having performed double march without having 
tasted water, and having nothing to eat but dry 
chopped straw, with a little barley in it. The mo¬ 
tion of a camel is very disagreeable: he goes whiz¬ 
zing through the air, though he does not advance 
three miles per hour; at every step he throws his 
rider backwards and forwards, and causes nearly 
the same sensations as a rocking boat. 

27 th Feb.—No variation from yesterday. I am 

* So it is commanded by the law. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 187 

already land-sick, and have made a calculation, that 
in each journey of fifteen hours I have been bumped 
like a school-boy fifty-eight thousand times. 

28th Feb.—Nothing is so tedious as the first 
day’s camel riding, except a continuation of it 5 and 
nothing so wearying as a camel’s walking pace, ex¬ 
cept a camel’s trot. During the fifty-two hours 
that I was on the back of the sulky animal, I had 
been unwittingly endeavouring to make him mend 
his pace ; but, equally indifferent to threats or ca¬ 
resses, he refused to go beyond a walk; at length 
he set off voluntarily in a trot, and, in spite of my 
utmost exertions to restrain him, he brought me to 
a spring, and here he has deposited me, almost 
ready to fall to pieces, like an over-boiled fowl. 
We have performed, in three days, a journey that 
usually employs a week ; and, during this, the ca¬ 
mels have not tasted water—a draught in three 
days is quite sufficient for a camel—my guide says, 
in three weeks or even three months, provided he 
can get green food. By the way side we found 
many skeletons of camels, the animal on which I 
rode became exceedingly offensive as to his breath, 
and when he came within three or four hours of 
water, I found it impossible to retard him. 

The track from Esneh to the Oasis Bceris, is 
marked with piles of stones ; but the bones of ani¬ 
mals, and the setting sun, form as sure a guide. 
There is one spot in particular abounding in bones, 


188 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


and amongst them old Hassan pointed out those of 
a camel that he had often accompanied through the 
desert; and near them the grave of its master—the 
camel had died of thirst, and its owner had killed 
himself by its side. Such anecdotes are not very 
uncommon: a camel, or a horse, is generally the 
life, or the means of living, to a man and his family. 

We descended the Libyan chain early this morn¬ 
ing, and at sunset dismounted at the first verdure 
of the Oasis. Boeris is the name of this “ island 
of the desertand consists of a few springs rising 
at various distances, in an extent of many miles, 
each of which enables a few outcasts of the world 
to cultivate a little com and dates. As to anti¬ 
quities, here is a small temple, paltry and unfi¬ 
nished, to see which I have endured fifty hours 
bumping (besides returning), and been in a per¬ 
petual state of fusion ; the water in the goat-skins 
has been churned rancid, the mirage has been 
doubly tantalizing, and all the springs of the Oasis 
taste of the nether world. 

The fountain by which we repose is warm and 
sulphurish, it irrigates half an acre of land. There 
is a house upon the estate, but it is deserted, in 
consequence of a ruffian having carried off the 
owner’s daughter; a sentinel attends every evening 
to preserve the crop from the gazelles. The corn 
land here, as in Nubia, is fenced in with leaves of 
the palm-tree—a single row of which answers the 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 189 

purpose of an expensive park paling; these are 
scarcely balanced in the sand—but the courage of 
deer is not worth a puff of wind. The man now 
on duty informs me that Siout is five days distant, 
that he was once there, but shall never go again, 
as the people are not human, for they had demand¬ 
ed payment for bread . 

29 th.—As soon as it is light we descry a hill sur¬ 
mounted by cottages and palm trees, it is distant 
about three hours. In our way thither two men 
with matchlocks came out to meet us, and finding 
that we did not come to collect taxes, or with other 
hostile intentions, they saluted us with a feu-de- 
joie; the report spreads through the village, and on 
approach we find all the inhabitants assembled on 
the tops of their houses. 

The heads of the females are ornamented with 
shells, in the same manner as those of the Egyp¬ 
tians are ornamented with money, and these shells 
are, I believe, similar to those that do pass for 
money. 

We desire to be conducted to the shekh, and 
alight at a house which is not so bad as any of the 
others; part of the exterior is white-washed, and 
on this is scrawled in red paint a verse of the 
Koran. This is the coronet of a hadji—the lord 
of the village has suffered the martyrdom of a pil¬ 
grimage to Mecca, and considers himself amply re¬ 
warded by being called a saint, and being allowed 


190 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

(as is in general use throughout Switzerland) to 
write a religious sentence on his house. 

The shekh received us very hospitably, and 
spread a mat for us on a mud divan raised within 
the portal, or hall of strangers, but he could not 
allow us to step beyond the second threshold, as 
that part of the house was the sanctum sanctorum 
—it contained the saint’s harem. The first sub¬ 
ject of conversation was taxes ; even Boeris, divid¬ 
ed from the world, has not escaped the care of the 
Pasha, the people are compelled to pay a yearly 
rent of some dollars ; and they requested me, be¬ 
ing an Engilitz, to have it mitigated. I was asked 
twenty times if I was an Englishman, and having 
sworn to it, a man brought a soldier’s musket, and 
pointing to the number of the regiment, exclaim¬ 
ed, “ Engilitz, Engilitz,” seven or eight times, rais¬ 
ing his voice to a pitch of pride and self congratu¬ 
lation. 

A number of medals were brought to me, but 
none of any consequence: under pretence of ex¬ 
amining them I put on a pair of green spectacles, 
and was immediately supposed to be a conjuror— 
it was a foolish joke. I lost my spectacles. Arabs 

would steal the teeth out of-’s mouth if they 

knew that the wire which held them was of gold. 

In the evening I was visited by the greater part 
of the village, and among the crowd came a man 
to whom all gave place. Pie had no sooner got 



THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 191 

pretty close to my ear, than he commenced making 
a great noise, at which every body except myself 
was highly delighted. The man, to my astonish¬ 
ment, was grunting out a song, and expecting 
becksheesh; I gave him money immediately, on 
condition that he would not sing any more. The 
company were surprised at my want of taste, but 
part consoled themselves by laughing at the en¬ 
raged musician. 

On the following morning I requested a guide 
to conduct me to the temple : two were given me, 
when, seeing that I carried my fowling piece, 
they desired me to wait till they had put on their 
guns, which they convinced me were loaded with 
ball. 

We walked about ten miles S. E. across the sand, 
to a spring, a few huts, and a little verdure. Near 
this is the temple, it is almost buried in sand, and 
yet its defects are not hidden—this fabric differs in 
many respects from the temples on the Nile. It 
is a small building, composed of petty blocks of 
stone, the pillars are only two feet six inches in 
diameter, and even these, instead of being formed 
of one solid block, are constructed of mill-stones. 
The sacred writing # is scarcely begun, but the 
vanity of the founder has taken care to see that a 
long inscription, with his name in it, was completed. 


See Appendix. 


192 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


How can we expect a temple of consequence in 
the middle of a desert, where water is as scarce as it 
is necessary, where the population never could have 
been great, where great works never could have 
been achieved, and never been required ? My in¬ 
credulity as to Meroe and Jupiter Ammon * gains 
strength. 

The surface of the earth in the vicinity of the 
temple is very remarkable, it is covered with a 
lamina of salt and sand mixed, and has the same 
appearance as if a ploughed field had been flooded 
over, then frozen, and the water drawn off from 
under the icet. 

Encamped near one of the springs is a caravan 
of Djelabi, or slave pedlers, who are in the habit of 
trafficking between Darfour and Cairo. The com¬ 
pany consists of about thirty men, and as many four- 
footed beasts, besides a few women : the latter are 
considered fine specimens, they had been bought 
themselves in the first instance as slaves, but hav¬ 
ing gained the affections of their masters, they ac- 

* With respect to the temple of Jupiter Ammon this opinion 
is confirmed: the Pasha wished to take the neighbouring people 
under his protection, and sent an army for that purpose, they 
did see some people whom they did not catch, and also the 
famous temple which never could have been worth seeing. 

t Vessels, of terra cotta, which we may reasonably suppose to 
be two thousand years old, do, on their arrival in the moist at¬ 
mosphere of England, exude salt. 


THE OASIS BCERISj MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 193 

company them in their journeys, and are used as 
decoys. 

From these slave pedlers I purchased a pair of 
sandals * the inconvenience of boots and shoes in 
travelling over sand is obvious—it always compelled 
me to go barefooted. These sole preservers are 
very ingeniously formed of one piece (excepting 
a thong not two inches in length), the leather is 
cut to the shape of the foot, but so much larger as 
to allow straps to be pared at the side, and with 
these are contrived fastenings similar to those of a 
skate. I procured also some tamarind cakes, they 
might be called portable sherbet, they render even 
brackish water cool and agreeable. 

The springs of the Oasis are (comparatively) 
cool at mid-day, and warm at midnight—Belzoni 
states the varying degrees of heat as follows: 40 
at noon, 60 at evening, 100 at midnight, 80 at 
morning, but he confesses that this calculation is 
made only by guess —my thermometer was broken 
so that I could not ascertain this fact. I however 
felt considerable variations, but was of opinion that 
such variations might exist equally in one’s blood as 
in the water: that probably the temperatures of 
both were changed, though not in equal degree, and 
that even supposing only one of them to have un¬ 
dergone any alteration, such alteration would be 
relatively perceptible in proportion as the degree 
of temperature rose or fell. 


o 


194 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

I should imagine the people of Boeris to have 
been till lately the poorest and the happiest in the 
world; he that has no land shares equally the la¬ 
bour and the produce with him that has. All are 
content, except with taxes: taxes beget industry, 
industry begets money, and money begets evil; 
luxury, pride, and envy will soon grow up amongst 
them ; the stamped leather of Charles would, not 
long since, have been sufficient for them, but now 
that they trade with foreign towns, they would ra¬ 
ther have a piece of dirty Turkish copper than a 
quartern loaf; and their knives are always ready 
to take a slice* off a Spanish dollar. They have 
not as yet got so much money as to have no cha¬ 
rity: when I called for my bill, and the shekh 
enumerated the chickens, dates, sheep, and brandy, 
he omitted bread* and when I reminded him that 
we had seven days’ rations for seven people, he told 
me that it was “ not the custom to receive money 
for supplying a traveller with the staff of life.” 

I had used my utmost endeavours to purchase a 
head-dress of shells, but could not obtain either 
the object of my anxiety, nor the reason why; at 
length, on the point of going away, when all the 
village were collected round me, I threw some half 
farthings amongst them for a scramble, this act of 
generosity had such an effect upon them, that a 

* When they cannot give change, they cut the piece into halves 
and quarters. 


TttE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 1Q5 

tiian told me he would gladly let me have his 
daughter’s coiffure, but he knew that whenever I 
should look upon it in England, and should wish 
for his daughter, that she would immediately go 
flying through the air to me. 

Besides the temple above mentioned, my guides 
inform me, that there is a smaller one about two 
days south, and that the great Oasis Hardji is four 
days distant; but I have already determined to re¬ 
trace my steps rather than trust to evils that I 
know not of. 


196 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XVIII. 

DEPARTURE FROM THE OASIS-HO-MINIEH-RE¬ 

TURN TO CAIRO. 

Previous to leaving the Oasis I took a few hours’ 
ramble with my gun, and found a snipe, an owl, 
two Royston crows, and some partridges. 

From Boeris I retraced my steps to Djibelein, 
during which nothing particular occurred, except 
the bumping, and nothing interesting or amusing 
except a feu d’artifice of electricity, and a fight 
between two of the camelliers. 

One night preparatory to repose I was about to 
spread a sheet of common white linen upon the 
sand, and shaking it rather violently for that pur¬ 
pose, observed that it threw forth a flash of fire: this 
I repeated several times, and formed such amuse¬ 
ment as is to be found in the gardens of Tivoli, or in 
the heavens on a summer evening, when it is called 
sheet lightning—it would have been a good oppor¬ 
tunity to try experiments—if one had had instru¬ 
ments and patience. The Arabs pretend to ima¬ 
gine that it was produced by the rays of the sun 
collected during the day. During the night a 
number of animals were constantly running over 
me—it was too dark to see them, but to judge by 


THE O^SIS BCERISj MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 197 


the feel I should call them a species of rats, pro¬ 
bably the ermine. 

As we drew towards the end of our journey the 
two elder of the camel drivers quarrelled; from 
words they proceeded to blows, and were in the 
act of pulling beards when I desired my dragoman 
to horsewhip them both, and ascertain the cause of 
their dispute. It appeared that as we were on the 
point of separating, it was necessary that I should 
be presented with a supper, and the two Arabs in 
question were contending for the “ honour” of 
furnishing the entertainment: now as I would not 
suspect them capable of fighting for the base lu¬ 
cre of three shillings, I desired that each of them 
should bring me supper sufficient for the whole 
party; this they did, and shared the “ honour” be¬ 
tween them. 

From Djibelein my dragoman went to Esneh for 
the money, and I was to find my own way to the 
candgy, which had descended to Thebes: there 
was not a boat belonging to the place except that 
of the ferry, so I took that, and arrived at Thebes 
early on the following morning. Here I tarried 
a few days to ship my curiosities, among which 
were the Grecian mummy, and four others; also 
the straw-stuffed skin of one of the celebrated 
electric fishes. The latter I had left in the care 
of a Frenchman, who informs me that the cat ate 
it! The mummy case had been opened by the 


198 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

Arabs, they had taken out the body and put in one 
of a plebeian—with some difficulty 1 regained my 
own corpse, and bastonaded the knaves soundly— 
it was curious to see how kindly they took it. At 
length I quitted Thebes, with my boat like 
Charon’s. 

Nearly opposite Goos I called upon a crocodile 
cacciatore ; he had not had much sport of late, and 
had only two skins in his possession. The shortest, 
eight feet long, this I bought and put it with the 
coffins. The flesh of the crocodile is eaten, but 
the principal object of the sportsman is the musk. 

At Ho we found a considerable number of crabs 
running among the stones at the river’s edge ; 
they furnished us with a luxurious supper. The 
turtle of the Nile, especially as it wants London 
cookery, is but a poor kind of thing. 

At Rhadamone I paused a while to enjoy the 
hospitality of Mr. Brine, and in his garden was wit¬ 
ness to the fact of impregnating the date tree. An 
Arab ascended, carrying with him some of the 
seed of the male palm, this he inserted among 
the flowers of the female. It is agreed by every 
one, that without this process no fruit would be 
produced$—but if the liusband-man did not carry 
the seed,—the winds of heaven would. 

It was dark when I arrived at Minieh, and, con¬ 
sequently, too late to pay a visit of ceremony to 
the governor; for a Turk is accustomed to take 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 199 


his supper at sun-set, after which he retires to the 
apartments of the women, and from that time till 
morning is constant to his harem. As I was un¬ 
able to wait till the following day, and unwilling 
to pass by a man who is anxious to be visited, and 
who is highly spoken of by all travellers, I sent 
my dragoman with an apology for not calling. In 
the course of a few minutes a janissary came on 
board, saluting me in the name of the governor, 
and expressing his sorrow that, on account of its 
being so late, all the bazaars were closed, so that 
he could only beg my acceptance of six sheep, with 
pigeons, chickens, and a basket of vegetables, but 
would be happy to see me at supper. Knowing 
that he had already made his evening meal, I re¬ 
turned for answer that I would have the pleasure 
of smoking a pipe with him. I almost wished to 
send back his present; for Mr. Brine, atRhadamone, 
had supplied me with provisions sufficient for the 
remainder of my journey, and this new flock of 
sheep were tumbling about among the coffins, and 
the chickens and pigeons were taking possession 
of my bed. Six torch-bearers now conducted me 
through a large court-yard to the mansion, the 
stairs of which were lined on either side with ja¬ 
nissaries ; they were magnificently dressed, and 
that splendor increased by torch-light. At the top 
stood the governor; he commenced the conversa¬ 
tion by informing me that his artillery men were 


200 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

not in the way, or he would have ordered a salute 
to an Englishman. He then led me to the divan, 
and desired my dragoman also to sit down. Dra¬ 
gomen are ex-officio people of consequence, but 
mine was professionally a private soldier, so that 
when he did avail himself of the governor’s per¬ 
mission, he sat down upon the floor, not cross- 
legged, as if in companionship, but observing due 
respect, by kneeling as it were, and sitting upon 
his heels. Pipes and coffee were brought in, fol¬ 
lowed by punch ; for punch is the epithet applied 
by the governor to an Englishman, as rosbif is by 
a Frenchman : our discourse dwelt principally on 
politics; and Abdin * (the name of the governor) 
is the Burleigh of Egypt. On taking leave I found 
a horse ready to convey me to the boat, though not 
more than fifty yards distant. While I was pro¬ 
ceeding to the eastern custom of giving vales to the 
servants, they informed me that if any one of them 
should dare to accept a present he would be dis¬ 
charged—from the mouth of a cannon. As English 
fire-arms are an offering most acceptable to a Turk, 
I sent a brace of double-barrelled pistols to the go¬ 
vernor; he returned them immediately, in con¬ 
formity to his practice, for he did not ask strangers 
into his house to rob them. 

It is generally imagined, that to refuse an offer¬ 
ing is a declaration of hostility; but I have been 

* Now governor of Dongola. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 201 

told by many an inhabitant of Egypt, with as¬ 
tonishment, and always with respect, that “ Colo¬ 
nel Missett, the English consul, never accepted any 
thing.” 

At length I am about to bid adieu to the Nile, 
the least romantic, but most useful of rivers; the 
waters of which are the dirtiest but most beneficial 
in the world ; on whose banks there is scarcely one 
spot that would attract the attention of an artist, 
nor an object of antiquity* comparable to the Par¬ 
thenon and Colisasum. I confess that nature has 
more charms for me than the chef-d’oeuvre of art; 
that I have found more pleasure in the vale of 
Chamouni than in the tribune at Florence; and 
less satisfaction in the Vatican than on the top of 
iEtna. In the monuments of antiquity I have en¬ 
deavoured to read the character of the ancient 
Egyptians, and whatever pleasure I have found on 
the Nile was derived from the study of mankind. 
I was pleased in making the voyage, but am happy 
to have finished it. 


Neither pyramids nor temples. 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


202 


CHAPTER XIX. 

ARRIVAL AT CAIRO-PYRAMID OF CHEPHRENES, 

Arrived in the neighbourhood of Cairo. Soon sur¬ 
rounded by camels, but I called for some Christian 
conveyance, and an ass was immediately brought. 
This animal is not a sign of humility a whit more 
in Cairo than it is at Margate; nor is a colonel of 
cavalry, whose pride is his sabre and moustaches, 
at all ashamed of riding about on an ass; it is an 
event of every half hour to see a person of conse¬ 
quence seated on a Jerusalem pony, and, like Ba¬ 
laam, accompanied by two servants; one carries a 
gun, generally in a case, and the other carries his 
master’s pipe. Christians were forbidden, till late¬ 
ly, to ride on horseback in many of the towns of 
Turkey: and it is the more remarkable that this 
law at present exists only in that very town which 
afforded the principal asylum to the early Christ¬ 
ians. We shall hardly have right to make this a 
subject of complaint against the Turks, when we 
remember that in Great Britain, and lately, and 
even among the followers of the same church, that 
the same law was virtually in existence, inasmuch 
as a Catholic might not ride a horse that he would 
refuse to sell for five pounds. In Damascus alone 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 20 3 

the unregenerated spirit of Paul still exists; and 
it is by no means uncommon for a zealous Moham¬ 
medan, with all the acrimony of a Pope against 
the unfaithful, to wield a sword in the mosque, and 
preach up the extirpation of infidels (Jours). 

In passing through Cairo I was ducked with the 
remnants of lamps, oil and burnt wick. In this 
state I went to the consul to make a complaint; 
redress he informs me is impossible: I believed 
that it was done on purpose, and so does he, for 
he had met with the same himself. 

One day, sitting in my room, I fancied that it 
was raining, and having been for some months 
freed from such a blessing, I ascended the roof of 
the house to discover if there was enough for a con¬ 
scientious man to swear to. I had scarcely as¬ 
certained that it was just admissible, when I was 
alarmed by some discordant noises arising from the 
street: it was music, the accompaniment of a 
wedding, and was fully as typical of future har¬ 
mony as marrow-bones and cleavers; but at the 
same time as much admired by the Cairines as the 
bagpipes are by the Scotch. The bride wore a red 
veil, and in a dress hired for the occasion, was 
decked out as gaily as a girl about to become a 
nun ; she was followed by a crowd of friends, and 
led by a nurse to where the bridegroom was in 
waiting. 

The red veil in some parts of the East is, as the 


204 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


rose amongst us is, or ought to be, peculiar to a 
maiden—the veil is seldom belied, althought here 
is an expression in Arabic to the contrary—there 
is no Lucretia among the women,but every man is 
a Virginius, even when in opposition to the esta¬ 
blished law of Rome and reason. The wages of 
sin is death; and a thousand instances might be 
brought forward in which the principle has been 
held “peccare est nefas, pretium est mori. ,, I have 
already observed that the greatest compliment that 
can be paid to a woman, is to address her, “ O you 
veiled oneand for this reason: the unfortunate 
part of the sex, for there is a particular race of peo¬ 
ple allowed to be so, do not wear veils. European 
women in visiting this country, whether from pride 
or custom, will not do as modest people do; and 
it was probably owing to this circumstance, that a 
very beautiful young woman, the daughter of a 
consul, was lately killed. She was unveiled, and 
at the moment alone: a soldier spoke to her in 
such a manner as he had been accustomed to speak 
to unveiled women; she, naturally angry, returned 
an irritating answer, and the man drew a pistol 
from his belt and shot her. It is curious that, with 
regard to marriage, polygamy is allowed, and yet, 
in opposition to that system, all women are com¬ 
pelled to hide their faces. Vice sometimes assumes 
the garb of virtue; and the Turkish veil answers 
the purpose of the Italian zendado. A woman may 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 205 

pass her husband without being recognized, and a 
man in the mask of a woman may find admission 
into a harem. In the case of discovery there is no 
compensation by pecuniary damages; there is no 
alternative but death to one of the parties. A man 
will not allow even his own brother to enter his 
harem, because that a man’s relicts become the 
property of his brother (v. Old and New Testa¬ 
ment). The bath is sometimes used as a place of 
intrigue, and it is in consequence of such customs 
at Berne and other places that a bad interpretation 
is given to the word bagnio. At Louesche I have 
seen men and women parboiled together innocently 
enough, and I know not of any particular scandal 
against the Bath in Somersetshire. 

The Levantine dress, were it not a restraint upon 
activity, would be preferable to ours. The Turk, 
even without having seen the opera dancers, says 
that all Francs are naked. His own small clothes 
are about eight feet in circumference at the waist, 
and the same at the ancle. Between the boun¬ 
daries of Turkey and those of Scotland, we find 
various gradations of indispensables—Cossacks, 
Greek, Spanish, brogues, gallygaskins, pantaloons, 
knee-breeches, and the seamless inexpressibles of 
a Highlander. The Turk wears what we consider 
to be the woman’s dress; and he greets his wife 
with angry speeches, if she be seen without her 
breeches. 


206 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

The turban is much more becoming, and much 
more cleanly, than a hat. According to the Turkish 
law a peculiar colour is appropriated to the Chris¬ 
tian, the Mohammedan, and the Jew, and by some 
other peculiarity is denoted the trade of the wearer, 
as we recognise a quaker or a coal-heaver. These 
distinguishing features are not always apparent, but 
the colour green is worn only by the descendants 
of the Prophet. A hadji just returned from Mecca 
informed me that he saw a man impaled for presum¬ 
ing to wear a green turban without being able to 
prove his title to it. This honour, notwithstanding 
Dr. Johnson’s idea of Turkish contempt of women, 
descends by the female line ; for the Prophet, like 
the Duke of Marlborough, had daughters, but no 
son ; the females in this case become ladies in their 
own right, and convey a title to their children, 
though not to their husbands. Blue is the colour 
appointed for the turban of a Christian, white is the 
privilege of a Turk. It happened lately that some 
Christians who had trespassed upon the law, made 
obeisance to the Cahir Bey en passant; the Bey re¬ 
turned the salutation; but discovering that he had 
saluted Christians, and had therefore committed 
an error, he issued a proclamation, “ that every 
Christian presuming to wear the white turban should 
be put to death,” or as the words expressed it, “ his 
head should be put between his legs.” 

During my excursion up the river, a Franc was 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. #07 

put to death in Cairo, concerning which I shall 
relate the story in the same words in which I 
heard it. 

“ Zanski and myself were shooting on the banks 
of the river, and he had just fired at a bird, when 
an Arab starting forth from under a bank, declared 
that some of the shot had struck him, and he in¬ 
sisted upon a compensation in money. Zanski, con¬ 
vinced that the shot had passed in another direc¬ 
tion, refused to comply. A crowd soon collected, 
and we were carried before the governor of a neigh¬ 
bouring village; the Arab persisted in his com- 
plaint, and Zanski was obstinate in his refusal. At 
length the governor struck him ;—Zanski retreated 
a step and shot him dead. We were immediately 
surrounded by the natives; Zanski was tied upon a 
donkey; and I was marched by his side. During the 
whole way to Cairo, we were beaten by the mob, 
our clothes were torn to rags, and those who could 
not get within arms' length, pelted us. The wife of 
the governor was most vehement both in words and 
acts, and lacerated Zanski's face in a frightful man¬ 
ner. In this state we were taken before the- Cady 
(judge). The case was soon heard ; I was liberated, 
and Zanski was sent to the castle. 1 called im¬ 
mediately upon his consul, who sent a janissary to 
demand that the prisoner should be delivered up to 
him. In answer to this he was desired to call at 
the castle at eight o'clock on the following morn- 


208 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

ing. We went at the time appointed, but the mob 
had already torn forth my friend from prison, had 
tied his arms behind him, and compelled him to 
kneel down upon the spot: the executioner with a 
sword in the right hand stood over him, and with 
a dagger in the left he stabbed him in the side, so 
that as the head inclined towards him, the blow of 
the sword might fall with more effect. We found 
the body on the spot where it had fallen, but the 
head was kicked to a considerable distance;—they 
brought it and placed it between the legs.” 

« Zanski’s life might have been saved by pecu¬ 
niary compensation to the widow, and by the de¬ 
fence that was put into his mouth: for even the 
judge said, c Surely it was an accident, and the gun 
went off unintentionally.’ But Zanski replied, ‘No, 
he struck me; and were the same circumstances to 
recur, I w r ould shoot him again.’ —The judge ap¬ 
plauded, pitied, and condemned.” 

According to existing regulations, every culprit 
ought to be delivered into the custody of his own 
proper consul. In desperate cases he is always dis¬ 
owned ; in minor ones he is seldom claimed; and in 
none can the consul, except the English, enforce 
it. Most of the consuls are merchants, pecuniarily 
indebted to the Pasha. 

With respect to law in Turkey, there is no “ glo¬ 
rious uncertainty.” The richest wins the day ; and 
when gold is thrown into the scale. Justice removes 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 209 

her sword. A judge in Turkey buys his place, and 
as he is liable to be out-bought, he makes the most 
of it. He is moreover subservient to the head of 
the state ; for there is no George the Third to ren¬ 
der him independent of the crown. The only sa¬ 
tisfaction in Turkish law is, that the case is speed¬ 
ily settled; there are no chancery suits, their Old 
Bailey, their King’s Bench, and all their courts, and 
their barristers, and their law-books, are comprised 
in one small room, the Cady, his secretary, and the 
Koran. The case is stated, the witnesses examined, 
and, on a scrap of paper, is immediately written. 
Let the condemned pay so much, receive so many 
blows, or be put to death in such a manner. The 
Cady is as arbitrary as Richard, and sometimes per¬ 
ambulating the market as a scrutator, he will order 
a cord to be drawn through a man’s ear or nose, 
and a quantity of his merchandise suspended there¬ 
to; or he will command a man to be shod as a horse, 
or a baker to be put into his own oven, and many 
other experimental acts of punishment. 

In company with Lieutenant Macdonnel and Mr. 
H. Hobhouse, I paid a second visit to the pyramids. 

I had already ascended that of Cheops, as every 
other traveller has done; and I now felt an incli¬ 
nation to mount that of Chephrenes, because no 
other European had ever yet ventured : that idea 
alone was sufficient to stimulate a lieutenant in the 
navy, and Macdonnel and myself determined upon 


p 


210 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


the attempt. The upper part of the pyramid of 
Chephrenes presents an inclined plane*, and I had 
found this “ coating” as it is called an effectual ob¬ 
stacle to my advancement in my former visit: an 
Arab, it is true, had offered to go to the top if I 
paid for it, which I declined, not anticipating any 
gratification from seeing a man perpetually in dan¬ 
ger. There are some Arabs who are celebrated 
for the performance, and are distinguished by the 
name of (I believe) Butirists: we sent for two of 
them, and they engaged to assist us. The steps on 
the north side are much worn by the pelting sand, 
and by the havoc of those who have searched for an 
entrance; we therefore ascend on the south side, 
and arrive, without much difficulty, at that point 
which travellers generally attain. The steps hence¬ 
forth are cut away as with a plane, not even a ledge 
is left; and to form an idea of the whole, you must 
fancy the pyramid of Caius Sestus smoother than a 
slated roof, and placed at such a height from the 
earth, that the slightest faux pas would occasion a 
fall double what it would be from the top of the 
Monument. Such a barrier as this would be in¬ 
superable, were it not that time and Arabs have 
crumbled away the edges of most of the stones, so 
that a line of holes may assist you in the ascent; 
but these stones themselves are in some places three 


This inclined plane calculated by Belzoni at 140 feet. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 211 

feet thick, and not every tier of which has a hole 
in it; and where there is a hole, the stone is liable 
to crumble: the first toe hole is at the height of 
three feet, and the first finger hole above six. One 
of our guides, a tall powerful man, drew himself 
up by strength of arm, and, looking down upon 
us, told us sarcastically to reduce our dress to that 
of an Arab, if we still persisted in our determina¬ 
tion; but no Franc, not even an Englishman, had 
ever ventured. We had already found a vulture’s 
nest—a convincing argument that the road was not 
much travelled, even by Arabs. It was now mid¬ 
day, and the stones were burning hot, the first 
finger hole was higher than I could reach, and 
would have afforded me a good excuse for receding; 
but the guide, supporting himself with one hand, 
laid hold of my wrist with the other, and drew me 
to a landing spot. It is the “ premier pas qui 
couteI had passed the Rubicon,—I forgot the 
heat of the stones, but still attempted to dissuade 
Macdonnel; however he would not listen to me : 
and with each a guide in advance, and climbing 
in a zigzag direction according to the holes, we 
reached the top in about three quarters of an hour. 
We found only one other step similar to the “pre¬ 
mier pas;” and, for the assistance of ourselves and 
those who may come after us, we broke away what¬ 
soever we could. I have already described the top 
of the neighbouring pyramid, Cheops, as present- 

p 2 


212 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

ing a surface more than thirty feet square, and from 
which probably eight layers of stones have been 
cast down : the top of this has lost a few, and but 
very few stones. The pyramid of Cheops is gene¬ 
rally considered to be the loftiest, but from this we 
look down upon its top : that presents a traveller’s 
directory in all languages, on this there are only a 
few very ancient characters*.* We did not tarry 
long here, for there is not much room to stand, 
and I was clinging to a stone fearful of vertigo and 
of being blown over; I consequently proposed to 
return before my courage should cool. To descend 
safely is much more difficult than to mount, and the 
two super-dangerous places excited no little fear: 
at the first of them, while my body was dangling 
from my finger’s ends, and my feet feeling in vain 
for a resting-place, and while I was calculating upon 
how soon I should fall, the guide tore me down 
very much against my will, holding me as he would 
have held a child over the railings of the Monu¬ 
ment. The time occupied was about two hours. 

This pyramid, if in Hyde Park, might possibly 
be worn into a Sunday’s amusement; but in its 
present state, I believe that nothing short of heaven 
itself would ever tempt me or Macdonnel to go so 
near to heaven again, by the same means. I ask 

* I regret that I did not copy them, but I had gone up merely 
for pleasure , and had no intention of making a book. See 
Appendix. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 213 

permission to give some proofs of the real or ima¬ 
ginary difficulty * of the undertaking: the Arabs 
in the neighbourhood of Cairo are much bolder 
than elsewhere, and even make a practice of hoot¬ 
ing and laughing at Francs. Macdonnel and my¬ 
self, in our return towards the river, became the 
butts of some labourers in the fields; our guides, 
who were still in company, informed them that we 
had been to the top of the pyramid of Chephrenes, 
and the tongue of ridicule became immediately 
silent. 

“ And when they talk of it they shake their heads. 

And whisper one another in the ear.” 

Even the consul requested Mr. Hobhouse and 
others to certify having seen us at the top; and to 
sum up, Macdonnel says, that whoever ascends 
that pyramid without fear may call him cowardt.” 


* Dr. Richardson, vol. i. p. 151. speaking of the pyramid of 
Chephrenes, observes, “ This pyramid is of easy ascent even 
over the coating. An Arab, for a sixpence , climbed or rather ran 
up and stood upon the top of it.”—A practised seaman may run 
up to the mast-head: sixpence is as much as an Arab earns in 
two days. Why did not the doctor run up this easy pyramid ? 

t Captain Gordon has since ascended this pyramid—and to 
him, I am indebted for a copy of the inscription copied at the 
request of Mr. Salt, H.B.M. Consul General in Egypt. See 
Appendix. 


214 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XX. 

DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO—SUEZ-TOR-THE NAR- 

KOOS—ARRIVAL AT MOUNT SINAI. 

A Franc, whom I casually met, informed me, that 
an “ accident’’ had just happened, viz. that a man 
had fallen down dead in the bazaar; and this, he 
added, was the first manifestation of the plague. 
I urged Lieutenant Macdonnel to hasten his de¬ 
parture 5 he had obligingly offered me a passage 
from Suez to Tor, and I had with pleasure accepted 
it, for though my original intention had been to 
proceed from Cosseir to Mecca, and I had pro¬ 
cured a firman for that purpose, I had been com¬ 
pelled to relinquish my design on finding that my 
dragoman refused to accompany me. We were still 
delayed in Cairo on account of an engagement with 
the Pasha for the following evening ; in the mean 
time 1 was seeking for another dragoman. Among 
the applicants was a Frenchman who was one of 
many that had deserted from the army, and had 
become Mohammedans: he was now anxious to 
make his escape to his own country. The renegade 
is held in thorough contempt by the Turk. 

I joined the party in their visit to the Pasha; we 
found him at his maison de plaisance, a short dis¬ 
tance from the capital; he told us that news had 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 215 

just reached him of “ two accidents,” and that 
he should, in consequence, commence quarantine. 

On the following morning, in traversing a very 
small part of the town, I saw several funeral pro¬ 
cessions, and was informed that ten others had al¬ 
ready preceded them; fearful of accidents, I re¬ 
solved to have quitted Cairo within an hour. 

These funerals were well attended: the chief 
mourners had their hands blackened, and those also 
who trade in tears were hired for the occasion. As 
the ululu is strictly observed throughout Cairo, the 
city of lamentations must be particularly intoler¬ 
able when the plague is at its height. The Turks, 
excepting the Pasha, and perhaps the upper classes 
in general, consider as cowardly and wicked any 
attempt to shun the plague—for it comes from Hea¬ 
ven. Among the vulgar superstitions is one con¬ 
cerning an apparition, which, like the flying Dutch¬ 
man, gives warning : this figure is described as 
clothed in white, and holding in one hand the dart 
of death, and in the other the book of fate; to this 
it refers, and gives you notice, en passant, if your 
name is written there. If these fatalists do not at¬ 
tempt to cure, they do not fly from the infected; and 
it might almost be a reflection on our religion that 
Christians avoid a brother’s woe. In no place was 
this practice ever so shamefully remarkable as in 
Scotland, and that with regard to a disease from 
which no danger need have been apprehended. 


216 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

Having taken all necessary precautions against 
plague, pestilence, and famine, we left Cairo, though 
only with the intention of encamping without the 
walls; here we were detained for the greater part 
of the following day, in expectation of two horses, 
which the Pasha wished Mr. Hobhouse to convey 
as a present to the Marquis of Hastings. An En¬ 
glishman, who some time before had been entrusted 
with the same commission, refused the office on the 
ground that the horses were not good enough ; per¬ 
haps the very same that were now sent—one of 
them was broken kneed, and was consequently sent 
back, with a request that another might be for¬ 
warded to Suez. 

The desert from Cairo, were it not for the com¬ 
pliments that I ought here to pay to my compa¬ 
nions, outhorrids that of the Oasis, and we arrive 
at Suez without a single moment of interest, ex¬ 
cepting an attempt to distinguish some ostriches— 
our guides said they saw some. The Arabs, who 
have not the ophthalmia, are remarkably well sight¬ 
ed in the desert. They are so used to look on 
sand and stone that they easily distinguish what is 
not so. 

Suez is tolerable, even as a Turkish town, and 
were it in other hands it would be delightful. There 
is a large square—there is an attempt at regularity 
of building—there are no soldiers, and no plague 
—the situation is beautiful—the Red Sea appears 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 217 

rather as a lake, girded with rock—on its bosom 
was waving the British flag. 

We called upon the governor, respecting two of 
the crew who had deserted; the governor refused 
to deliver them up; alleging that every Moham¬ 
medan is, by his religion, a subject of the Gran 
Signor* (as a Catholic is of the Pope), and for¬ 
bidden to serve an infidel. The British flag was 
flying within a short distance of his window—this 
was pointed out to him—and it was hinted that if 
he persisted in his refusal, his house would be 
about his ears in half an hour:—he gave them up 
immediately. 

The expected horse arrived from Cairo, and we 
set sail; in twenty-four hours we anchored off Tor, 
and I had to thank my friend, not only for a voyage 
of pleasure, but for having saved me from three 
days’ camel-riding, heat, sand, and bad water. By 
land, from Suez to Tor, there is nothing to be seen 
but the “ bitter springs of Moses,” and nothing 
else to be drank. 

The Red Sea, in that part pointed out to us as 
having been passed through by Moses, is particu¬ 
larly shallow, sufficiently so to endanger our ves¬ 
sel, but not so much so as to make me imagine that 
merely a prevalence of any particular wind would 
ever have the same effect here that it has in the 

* The Pope is called only the Vicar of Jesus Christ, but the 
Sultan is styled God on earth, Shadow of God, Brother of the 
Sun, &c. 


218 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

Dead Sea, viz. to render it fordable. In some old 
maps the track of Moses is delineated, not as having 
passed straight over from the Egyptian to the Ara¬ 
bian side, but as having made a little detour into 
the sea, and then pursued his course by Suez. 

The Red Sea is as blue as either the Black Sea 
or the White Sea # . Of derivations to the name, 
you will find a large assortment in Quaresmius; as 
to the coral, I have only to observe, that though it 
abounds here, it is all white; you may choose for 
yourself between—the reflected rays of the sun, 
King Erythrast, or the Hebrew word suph, which 
signifies both red and reed ; an inhabitant of Tor, 
in the true spirit of Greek Christianity, informed 
me that it was so called from the drowning of Pha- 
roaJi and his host, as if the waters had been there¬ 
by turned into blood. He might have quoted— 
conscia lympha Deum vidit et erubuit. 

Tor is a wretched huttage, in the occupation of 
a few families, drawn together by twelve springs of 
water, and a grove of palm-trees; for any addi¬ 
tional luxuries they are indebted to a few boats that 
convey weary pilgrims to and from Mecca. The 
water is the best that is to be found on the coast, 
and on this account we see here a fortification, said 
to have been built by the Portuguese—it is now in 

* The Mediterranean—so called by the Turks. 

t King Erythras—red—Rufus—isprobably Esau—Esau is call¬ 
ed also Edom—red—hence Sea of Edom—it may be consolation 
to some to know that red hair is admired in many parts of the East. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 219 

decay. The mountains, east of Tor, equal any 
scenery that ever I witnessed in rough and barren 
nature ; they are the Alps unclothed. Tor is sup¬ 
posed to be the ancient Elim; the number of 
springs is still the same, but that of the palm-trees 
has increased—there is another place named Elim 
between this and Suez. 

About eight miles N. from Tor, and within a 
short distance from the sea, is a phenomenon, called 
the Narkous, or bell; and near which, so runs the 
tale, was seen a bodyless hand ringing a bell. 
Ever since that time one of the gaps in the rock 
has chosen, occasionally, to utter miraculous sounds. 
The first notice of its anger is a gentle rumbling, 
which increases gradually, till it shames the thun¬ 
der, and in this state it will continue some hours, 
during which the sand performs an earthquake. 
The lieutenant, who had already been once there, 
easily persuaded Mr. Hobhouse and myself to ac¬ 
company him : we procured camels, and arrived at 
the Narkous. In outward appearance there is no 
difference between this and any other of the many 
neighbouring gaps, which are equally filled with 
sand. Unfortunately, on our arrival, the mountain 
would not speak, and we had to wait a consider¬ 
able time without hearing any grumbling, except 
our own ; at length one of the party scrambled up 
the sand—the mountain * immediately became in 

* There are several inscriptions on the rocks in the vicinity. 


220 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

labour, and if the grumblings were not either so 
loud or so long as I had expected, I must remem¬ 
ber that the mountain grumbled upon compulsion ; 
and, notwithstanding this, I consider myself well 
repaid for five hours’ camel riding. The road, in 
one part, lies close to the sea, the water of which 
is as beautiful in colour and in transparency as that 
of the Rhone at Geneva; it is paved with rocks of 
white coral, and is bounded by a mountain * that 
reminds me of Monte Rosa. In our pathway grow 
the perfumed herbs of Arabia, and the spicy gale 
that wooed our approach was sweeter than that 
which steals its fragrance from Hymettus. 

The time approaches when Macdonnel is to pur¬ 
sue his course towards India, while I wend mine 
towards Mount Sinai. The north wind warns the 
sails to their duty—the anchor is already on board 
—there is no excuse for longer delay—and I find 
myself among savages and alone. 

######## 

Here is to follow a very pathetic description of 
parting—to be finished when I am happy at home: 
ground work—the sensations of parting from a 
friend, at any time, multiplied by the ideas that 
arise in a strange land; add thereto the sudden 
transition from comfort to the contrary—from so¬ 
ciety to loneliness—from Englishmen to Arabs— 

* Mount Egrib. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 221 

from safety to danger, &c.; let it be supposed that I 
hide my feelings in solitude—wander by the water’s 
edge with melancholy steps and slow—throw my¬ 
self upon a rock, ia.xgv<r<x,g ircigcov —the winds of 
heaven conspire against me—the vessel rapidly 
vanishes—and the whole to conclude with a quo¬ 
tation from Ariadne’s letter to Theseus, or any 
thing more apt which I may find by index hunting. 

I was seated amidst the ruins of the old fort 
when the approach of my servant startled me from 
my reverie; every thing was ready for departure, 
and every body anxious to proceed. The camels 
had been laden some time, and of these there was 
one more than I had ordered; but it had been ren¬ 
dered necessary by the supply of wine and pro¬ 
visions, unknown of and unacknowledged, sent on 
shore by Macdonnel. I mounted the animal ap¬ 
pointed for me, and casting one longing lingering 
look on the fading vessel, wished a happier voyage 
to my friends. My company consisted of my two 
servants and three Arabs, the chief of whom dis¬ 
tinguished himself by a turban, gaily wrought in 
yellow, green, and red; he was also mounted, and 
his animal, as the fore-horse of the team, was capa¬ 
risoned with red and white tassels which, hanging 
about him, looked like bell-ropes. We now enter¬ 
ed that grove of palms which constitutes the wealth 
of Tor—every tree of it is registered—most of 
them are entailed property; and they produce 


222 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

marriage portions in dates—as portions in Holland 
are given in tulips. 

Having threaded this sacred grove, we arrived 
at a flat sandy plain, and travelled about fifteen 
miles before sun-set.—As soon as the sun sunk to 
repose, man and beast knew the hour of rest—the 
camel dropped upon its knees, and the Arab re¬ 
lieved it of its burden—he then bound its two fore¬ 
feet together to restrain it from wandering far, 
and at the same time allowing it to search for green 
food. 

Our guides, and probably all the Arabs of the 
desert, live from hand to mouth.—One of them 
collected dry shrubs, and clearing a bed in the sand, 
set fire to them, another had taken a measure of 
flour from his sack, and adding salt and laban (like 
buttermilk) was forming a flat cake—the third 
roasted some coffee-beans* in an iron shovel, then 
put them into a wooden mortar, and hammered 
them to atoms with his bludgeon. By the time 
that the cake was made the shrubs were burnt, the 
place was swept—the cake placed in the hollow, 
and the embers collected and thrown on it.—There 
was no quarrel about the bread being sufficiently 
baked, it was soon brought forth and devoured. 
The whole time from creating it till it was no more 
seen might be about ten minutes. The coffee-pot 

* Mocha coffee is very good in Turkey, with Turkish climate 
and Turkish manner of making it, fresh roasted, &c. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 22S 

was next produced, and the ashes were raked toge¬ 
ther to perform the further office of boiling what 
they had roasted. During this the camels were 
hallooed* home, and came as fast as their bandages 
would allow; every animal knew his master’s face, 
and putting his own to it, dropped upon his knees 
as if to ask for supper. The Arab is as intimate 
with his camel as an Irishman is with his pig— 
he feeds him and kisses him. While the camels 
were eating their allotted portion of barley, their 
masters seated themselves round the fire-place, the 
coffee-cup was put into circulation, and the ashes 
finished their services on the bowls of the pipes. It 
was now dusk, and a long story was still flowing 
with unabated vigour. I therefore almost despaired 
of starting again before morning, till I thought of 
bribing my guides with brandy ; with this I so far 
overcame Arab customs that the story was broken 
off, the camels reladen, and though thus late the 
journey was resumed. Our route continued over 
the sandy plain for about three miles, at the end 
of which we arrived at mountains of rock : the 
plain I imagine to have been once overrun by the 
sea, and these mountains are the natural boundary 
of Arabia Petrgea. The moon, which was now fa¬ 
vourable to our advancing, heightened the pictu¬ 
resque. I delayed my guides for a few minutes at 
the mouth of a narrow fissure, whose extremity was 

* The call is a continued sound of the letter R. 


224 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

lost in gloom, and whose sides are formed of rocks 
that rise to a fearful height: they rise from the 
plain beneath our feet to the summit of those moun¬ 
tains, which, when seen from shipboard, I had de¬ 
scribed as unclothed Alps. This fissure conducts 
to Mount Sinai, and a passage of only a few feet in 
width is the breach in this bulwark of Arabia. It 
is coursed by a shallow streamlet, and is so narrow 
that our camels were frequently obliged to walk in 
water, notwithstanding their natural antipathy to 
do so, and their liability to fall. Having followed 
our clue for about an hour, we came to a wider 
space, where we resolved to finish the night; on 
one side is a large cave : and that I might have the 
strangers in front, I placed my mattrass within it: 
fearful, however, that it might prove the resort of 
wild animals, I removed to the top of a fallen mass, 
and from which I had an opportunity of contem¬ 
plating a study fit for Salvator Rosa—a bivouack 
in the bowels of stony Arabia, a crater in the midst 
of a rock, a scanty rill, a solitary palm whose un¬ 
pruned leaves and unplucked fruit seemed unknown 
to man, though now casually resorted toby Arabs; 
turbans, beards, poignards, and matchlocks, red¬ 
dened by the glare of the watch-fire, and silvered 
by the soft radiance of the moon. 

Early in the morning we pursued our course, 
and at sun-set arrive at a green valley, whence we 
have the pleasure of descrying the wished-for con- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 225 

vent. It has the appearance of a fortress, and is 
situated at the extremity of a cul-de-sac formed by 
overhanging rocks. If I had to represent the end 
of the world, I would model it from Mount Sinai. 

During the day’s journey we did not see a hu¬ 
man being, nor even the vestige of man, save that, 
on the edge of a precipice, the figure of the cross 
proclaimed the zeal and labour of some adven¬ 
turous Christian. In vegetable nature I saw no¬ 
thing remarkable except a species of sorrel, which 
my guides brought me as a galantaria . The stream¬ 
let compensated for all deficiencies, and a person 
travelling in the East finds a murmuring rivulet as 
agreeable in reality as in poetry. The dulness of 
the scene was forgotten in the amusement of shoot¬ 
ing. We found many coveys of partridges; some 
the large red-legged of the Grecian isles, others 
brown and differing but little from the English, and 
a third species speckled like the quail *. 

It was late when we reached the convent, and as 
there is no door to beat at, nor bell, nor bugle, we 
aroused the warden by strength of lungs ; he an¬ 
swered from above, and demanded our credentials, 
for it is necessary to come recommended by the 

* In Egypt and Nubia we find the pink partridge, the pin¬ 
tailed brown, and pintailed sand coloured. Of forty-four diffe¬ 
rent species of birds, of which I stuffed samples, six were par¬ 
tridges, I had intended a present to the British and other Mu¬ 
seums, but the skins are mostly destroyed. 


22G A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

Greek Patriarch to the “ fatherly care” of the su¬ 
perior. A string was thrown, to which I tied my 
letter of introduction; after some consultation a 
rope was let down, with a noose to it. In this I 
was desired to fix myself, and in this position was 
wound up into the convent. Ere I was yet freed 
from the noose , the superior commenced his “ fa¬ 
therly care,” and hugged me tightly in his arms. 
I was only released from this second unpleasant 
situation, to find myself surrounded by the rest of 
the fraternity : fortunately they gave me no proof 
of violent affection, and indeed some doubts had 
arisen as to my being an Englishman; my dress 
and beard were thoroughly Turkish, and my face 
had been well ripened by the sun. One of my ser¬ 
vants was by this time warehoused, and he succeed¬ 
ed in removing their suspicions. “ O Milordos,” 
straight resounded from every mouth, and the pa¬ 
tience tov M iXogdov had nearly evaporated in ans¬ 
wering questions concerning England and the 
“ Prinshipos Regentos,” when it was happily con¬ 
ceived that it might be agreeable ru M I'kofia to re¬ 
tire : he was accordingly conducted to a room, on 
the door of which is written, eig rolg ngocreg- 
yopivoig. 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAT, ETC. 2^7 


CHAPTER XXI. 

MOUNT SINAI. 

The travellers’ room in the convent of Mount 
Sinai, like the travellers’ room in a public-house in 
England, bears the pencillings of its visiters; the 
memoranda in themselves differing as widely as the 
places are distant from each other. Here, instead 
of laughing at the amatory complaints of bagsmen, 
we pause before the useful notices of those who 
journey in the pursuit of knowledge; and in lieu 
of passing by such names as Green, White, Brown, 
we are here reminded of men whose labours have 
benefited mankind. Seetzenon a vessel of pa¬ 
per pasted against the wall, notifies his having 
penetrated the country in a direct line, between 
the Dead Sea and Mount Sinai, a route never be¬ 
fore accomplished; this was the more interesting 
to me as I had previously determined to attempt 
the same. The cavaliere Frediani, whom I met in 
Egypt, would have persuaded me that it was im¬ 
practicable, and that he, having had the same in¬ 
tention himself, after having been detained in hope 
five weeks, was compelled to relinquish his design. 

* On the margin is written—Seetzen died at Acaba; supposed 
to have been poisoned. 


228 a VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

While I was yet ruminating over this scrap of pa¬ 
per, the superior paid me a morning visit; he also 
said it was impossible; but at length promised to 
search for guides. I had already endeavoured to 
persuade those who had accompanied me from Tor, 
but they also talked of danger, and declined. We 
now proceeded to survey the convent—a square 
area, enclosed by a lofty wall; in this are jumbled 
together a number of rooms, erected at various 
times, and on uneven surfaces; here are likewise a 
church, a mosque, and a library; and among the 
most necessary articles is a well. The monks are 
frequently quarrelled with by the Arabs; and, con¬ 
sequently afraid to stir out. The wall prevents in¬ 
truders, and the appearance of two small guns, one 
of which is wood, contributes materially to their pro¬ 
tection. The mosque, strange as it appears adjoin¬ 
ing to a church, is necessary to the existence of this 
Christian foundation—it sanctifies the place in the 
eyes of a Mussulman, and professes to acknowledge 
his superiority; it is even allowed for one person to 
enter it on the Turkish sabbath; the library does not 
contain many books of value; all that were thought 
worth moving have been lately carried to Egypt; 
there still remain many scrolls of parchment, on 
which are written prayers in Greek and Syriac, and 
also some damaged Aldine editions;—but listen, 
Mr. Frognall Dibdin :—whilst I was dirtying my 
fingers in search of the true black letter, the supe- 



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THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 22Q 


rior told me to throw away the stupid old books, 
and look at some nice new ones!—They are very 
clean copies—they bear no mark, but that of the 
Bible Society *, and are very carefully put on the 
shelf. From the library we adjourned to the churcli 
—a handsome building, well fitted up in the Greek 
style, with much gilding and many portraits; among 
the most striking is the likeness of a saint, with a 
pig’s facet, and another with a beard as long as 
himself t, but Catherine is the favourite,—the foun¬ 
der of nunneries is the patroness of this monastery; 
repetitions of her portrait form the principal orna¬ 
ment ; and her bones constitute the chief wealth of 
the sacristy; not but that a proper attention is paid 
to worldly riches ;—a canvas face, on Mount Sinai, 
as well as in Rome is capable of receiving offerings; 
the Holy Lady smiles propitiously even on Turk¬ 
ish money, with pieces of which she is bedizened, 
in the same manner as an Egyptian Almah. The 

* A Turk once talked to me about the utility of sending Ko- 
rans among Christians. 

f I believe not Anthony, but Christopher; a saint with the 
head of that unclean animal, known by the Christians to have 
been the receptacle of the outcast devils; placed by the conqueror 
of the Jews over the gate of Jerusalem as a curse ; and by the 
Turk considered less cleanly and less fit for food than a dog. 

J St. Nicholas, who having but a short beard, prayed that it 
might be lengthened ; he was desired to put his hand to it, and 
pull it as long as he pleased;—he was pleased to pull it till it 
reached his feet. 


230 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

bones are preserved in a silver case, presented for 
that purpose by Catherine of Russia! and my Ci¬ 
cerone having passed a due eulogium upon the vir¬ 
tues of the Empress and the case, thus pursued his 
tale:—“ Saint Catherine obtained her martyrdom 
in Egypt, from which place her body was removed 
by four angels, and deposited on the summit of a 
neighbouring mountain; she was the wife of our 
Saviour *, and (drawing forth an amputated hand) 
it was upon this finger that he placed the ring.” 
Thus saying, he turned his purse inside out, and 
forth came a few silver rings, these he put upon 
the finger, and then upon mine, begging my accept¬ 
ance. I paid the jeweller, and we now came to a 
second image of St. Catherine, near which is burn¬ 
ing a vestal lamp, “ it has never been extinguished, 
and the oil is supplied from heaven!” This is the 
history in Greek; in plain English it means, that 
the slightest contribution is thankfully received ; 
the Virgin’s lamp, like the widow’s cruise of oil, 
is kept constantly filled by charity, which “ drop- 
peth like the gentle dew from heaven.” Having 
paid tithe, I was hastening into a small cell or cha¬ 
pel, which is honoured by a situation immediately 
behind the grand altar; my guide desired me to 
take off my boots, for it was on that spot that the 
Lord appeared unto Moses in the burning bush, and 

* Every nun, notwithstanding polygamy, is called the wife of 
our Saviour—“ For her the Spouse prepares the bridal ring.” 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 231 

He himself commanded the prophet to loose his 
shoes from his feet*.” In our return we glanced 
at a few minor relics, which my guide kissed, in 
spite of his nose. Among them is another hand 
of that Briareus, Saint George. One might ima¬ 
gine also, that every saint has as many heads as 
the hydra: and who can distinguish the head of a 
saint from the head of a sinner, unless he is a cra- 
niologist! But I believe that any one who has 
been so unfortunately holy as to be canonised, is 
torn from the grave and divided by the church, 
with as much dexterity as a murderer is dissected 
in Surgeons’ Hall. 

We now adjourned to the fathers, assembled at 
their frugal meal; the society consists of about 
thirty resident, and the same number of travelling 
fellows, who go from place to place seeking provi¬ 
sion for the convent;—beggary is the profession of 
a monk, and his trade is begging. Among these 
papas are several that have been long secluded in 
this wilderness of sin: some from religious motives, 
others from idleness, and others, probably, flying 
from the vengeance of the law; for they are Greeks. 
The superior has been here forty-five years, the 
last eight of which he has confined himself strictly 
to halls, walls, and chapels ; his spiritual ambition 
never soared above the bishopric of Mount Sinai. 

* In the representation of the burning bush of Moses, which 
I saw in the theatre at Frankfort, this command is uttered in a 
very audible voice. 


232 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

While we were yet discoursing, a poor old fellow, 
who says that he has been a member seventy years, 
hobbled into his last retreat, having just arrived 
from Cairo in thirty days. Concerning a third 
is related the following :—he was formerly a sol¬ 
dier in the Turkish service, in Egypt, and once, 
when in company with another, he met an Arab 
carrying firewood, he offered to purchase it, but 
being refused, he threw down the money, and took 
it by force. The latter part of the transaction was 
observed by the commandant, who immediately 
sent his janissaries for the heads of himself and 
comrade : these emissaries met with two other sol¬ 
diers, whom they decapitated on the spot! Asto¬ 
nished at his miraculous escape, and repenting of 
a murder of which he was, in some measure, the 
cause, he became a monk. By the rules of the 
convent the fraternity ought to attend prayers at 
midnight; their diet is limited to biscuits, salt fish, 
fruit and vegetables—manna* also is found here— 
wine and brandy are allowed—the supplies come 
from the Greek patriarch at Cairo—meat is forbid¬ 
den—the observance of which injunction is strictly 
adhered to—they can’t get meat. The Arabs in 

* Manna, a kind of honey-dew, found on shrubs in this neigh¬ 
bourhood, also near Bagdad, said to be so named from an excla¬ 
mation of wonder, on its being first discovered by the Jews. Man- 
hu ? What is this ? People might not only subsist, but would 
grow fat upon this manna, its saccharine nature rendering it an 
excellent feeder of the blood.—The Monks are very particular 
to tell you that it is not the same manna mentioned in the Bible. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 233 

the neighbourhood possess a few sheep, of which 
they occasionally kill one, and with great ceremo¬ 
ny parade the victim round the walls of the con¬ 
vent. 

The second day was entirely taken up in per¬ 
forming a pilgrim’s duty on Mount Sinai*: the as¬ 
cent alone is calculated at fifty thousand stepsf, 
and I found it a labour of two hours, stoppages 
not included. A papa, well versed in holy legends, 
was my Cicerone; we left the convent at eight in 
the morning, and returned about seven p.m. The 
first object at which we halted is a small chapel, 
the story attached to it is this :—“ The monks 
were once driven from the convent by fleas and 
famine—they were proceeding up the mountain to 
pray, when they were met on this very spot by a 
supernatural figure—say St. Catherine ; this good 
angel informed them that they would find their lar¬ 
ders replenished, and that fleas should never exist 
there again”. The first part of the story is pro¬ 
bable, the prophecy certainly is not true. We next 
stopped at a portal where it was once customary 
for the pilgrim to confess his sins. Our next ob¬ 
jects are a large cypress tree, and aspring of beau¬ 
tiful water; beyond this is a chapel, erected on the 
spot where Elias was fed by the raven ; higher yet 
is the signal stand, whence Moses surveyed the 

* Called by the Arabs Sinai, Horeb, Halviii, Mouses and Tor. 

t See Maundrell. 


234 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


fight between Joshua and Amalec ; and we now 
arrive at the top of the mountain ; here large 
masses of stone lie promiscuously together, by 
which there is formed a natural cave; that which 
may be called the roof, has in it a slight excavation 
somewhat resembling the upper part of a man 
all around is scorched with “ the smoke of a fur¬ 
nace”. My Cicerone says, that by this uncommon 
appearance of the rocks, it is clearly shown that 
this is the very place which the Lord passed over. 
Moses was at that moment hidden in the cave 
above-mentioned, and this he proved to his own 
satisfaction. Moses, thinking that the Lord had 
gone by, attempted to peep forth ; in so doing he 
was restrained by that large stone, and which has 
ever since borne the impression of his head and 
shoulders !—“ Faith can move mountains.” 

On the very summit are two dilapidated chapels; 
on one side rises the rock of St. Catherine, more 
lofty and more picturesque than that of Sinai, but 
all the rest is a sea of desolation. It would seem 
as if Arabia Petrsea had once been an ocean of 
lava, and that while its waves were running literal¬ 
ly mountains high, it was commanded suddenly to 
stand still. 

We descended by the same path as far as the 
cypress tree, and thence turned towards the con¬ 
vent of the forty martyrs; it is situated on the op¬ 
posite side of the mountain from that which we 


THE OASIS BtElllS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC, 235 

had left in the morning, and to reach it employed 
about six hours ; we met with several springs, aro¬ 
matic herbs, and small solitary cells, which were 
once the residences of Sts.: Gregory and others. 

The convent of the forty martyrs is now in the 
forcible possession of Arabs, but who still allow 
the monks to sleep there in their pilgrimage to the 
top of the neighbouring mountain, St. Catherine ; 
the same privilege was offered to me, as it is im¬ 
possible to perform the double labour in one day ; 
I however declined it altogether, for my Cicerone 
confessed that there is nothing to be seen but a 
spring of water resorted to by partridges, stones 
bearing marks resembling trees, and the burial 
place of the saint. Some authors talk also of an 
impression of the saint on stone, but I have already 
seen one specimen of lithography. 

There is a good garden belonging to this con¬ 
vent, and an orchard of olive-trees. We now turn 
our steps homeward, winding round the foot of 
Mount Sinai; a few caves are pointed out as having: 
been the residence of saints, but they are other¬ 
wise not worth notice. Large masses of stone lie 
scattered about the valley, and on some of them 
are inscribed characters which I was induced to 
copy, in hope that they may be similar to those 
on the “ written mountains,” and supposed to be 
the ancient Hebrew.—(See Appendix.) 

We next came to “the stone of Moses,” it is 


2SG A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

said to be one of those two from which, on being 
struck by the same rod that dried up the sea, 
gushed forth water; it is an irregular block of 
granite, in height about twelve feet, in length 
fifteen; and in width seven ; a kind of water fur¬ 
row, about eight inches in width, is visible on two 
of its sides, several small crevices extend across 
this track, and may be called mouths, these are 
described by some author, I believe Maundrell, as 
being “ supernatural,” and so clearly do they bear 
signs of water, that they are said to be “ incrusted 
like the inside of a tea-kettle.” These superna¬ 
tural mouths appear to me to be common crevices 
in the rock, they are only two inches in depth, 
and their length is not confined to the water¬ 
course ; that the incrustation is the effect of wa¬ 
ter I have not the slightest doubt, for the rocks 
close at hand, where water is still dripping, are 
marked in the same manner, and if a fragment of 
the cliff were to fall down, we should scarcely dis¬ 
tinguish between the two; I therefore doubt the 
identity of the stone, and also the locality, for in 
this place the miracle would be that a mountain so 
lofty as Mount Sinai should be without water! 

A grotto is pointed out as having been the 
abode of St. Athanasius, and onward in the valley 
is shown the place where the earth opened and 
swallowed up those who worshipped the golden 
calf; here was erected the brazen serpent, and 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 237 

there the calf was molten; the mould itself is 
supposed to be discovered in a small hollow, which 
is formed by one uneven piece of granite, resting 
against another. The next object of record is a 
spot touched by the foot of Mohammed’s camel, 
on its way to heaven; and the last is a block of 
gray granite, having in its side a large semicircular 
gap ; “ this was the pulpit of Moses, hence he used 
to address the people, and there as he sat at the 
foot of it, the stone embraced his shoulders.” 

We hastened to finish our journey, and within 
,520 yards of the convent find a stone, rolled from 
the mountain’s side, which is similar to that of 
Moses. The entrance into the convent is only 
twenty-nine feet from the ground, so that it is not 
half so formidable as the same kind of accommo¬ 
dation at the Ear of Dionysius. 

The third day I passed in sketching; I would 
willingly have proceeded on my journey, but no 
one will venture to be my guide. 

Among the talked-of curiosities of Mount Sinai, 
is said to be an impression of the hand of Moham¬ 
med, under which the convent enjoys many im¬ 
munities ; I requested to see it, but the superior tells 
me that it is now at Constantinople, for the Gran 
Seignor having desired to look at it, retained it. 
The history of it he gave as follows:—It happened 
that Mohammed, when an unknown youth, was 
encamped in this neighbourhood, an eagle was 


238 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

observed to hover over him, and one of the monks 
predicted his future greatness. Mohammed, well 
pleased with the gipsy tale, made liberal promises 
to the convent; a piece of paper was produced, 
but Mohammed, being unable to write, smeared 
his hand all over with ink, and made his mark. In 
about fifteen years afterwards the augury was ful¬ 
filled ; the soothsayer hastened to Mecca, and 
claimed performance of the note of hand. Mo¬ 
hammed kept his promise, and swore by the token 
that the convent should remain for ever sacred ; 
that the country, as far as eye can scan, should be¬ 
long to it; and all the inhabitants thereon its 
slaves. This country produces nothing but rocks 
and Arabs, and the Arabs are less desirable than 
the rocks. The population of the district, at that 
time, consisted of about five hundred, who, as slaves 
and Christians, used to come for their daily bread. 
The population is now increased, and the Arabs 
have become Mohammedans. It is forbidden for a 
Mohammedan to serve a Christian *, but they still 
demand their rations ; and sometimes, when we are 
unable to supply them, they kidnap one of the fra¬ 
ternity, and detain him till the ransom is paid. 

Besides the known entrance into the convent, is 
a secret door, leading to the garden ; this latter is 
seldom opened; over it is an inscription in Greek, 


* Remember our Catholic Laws. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 239 

accompanied by a translation in Arabic, stating 
that this [Aovcio'rrigiov was built by the father, Jus¬ 
tinian. In the garden are some olive and almond 
trees, also some cypresses, and a shrub said to have 
been planted there by Moses himself. 

At length there is found an Arab who is willing 
to conduct me to the Dead Sea; the bargain is 
yet to be made, and for this purpose I am led into 
an out-house, in the wall of which is an aperture 
sufficiently large to admit the voice ; the Arab is 
on the other side, and, for some reason which I 
cannot clearly ascertain, I am not allowed to see 
my future guide; he proposes that I shall take 
five camels and five men, to this I object that such 
a parade will render us liable to attack, without 
affording us the means of resistance; but he cuts 
the argument short, by declaring that he will not 
go unless these terms are acceded to. And now as 
to the price:—he demands more than he expects 
to obtain, and I offer less than I think he will ac¬ 
cept : he says seven thousand paras for each camel, 
and I say two; he, carefully omitting the cus¬ 
tomary appellation of merchant, calls me Hadji *, 
Milordos, Eccellenza, and finally exclaims—En- 
glitz, Englitz. This climax is but an ill compli- 

* Hadji, Pilgrim ; travellers are sometimes so called by the 
Turk in compliment; Eccellenza is the title usually bestowed in 
Italy by a begging post-boy—the Arab used the word Ameer 
—Prince. 


240 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


ment, for it would seem that even on Mount Sinai 
the English are thought rich enough to be fools. 

Seven thousand paras, if we calculate the pro¬ 
bable time that the Arabs would be absent from 
their homes, would yield less than half-a-crown per 
diem for both camel and master; this seems mode¬ 
rate enough, but I have found that the Arabs, like 
the Italians, always demand more than they expect. 
Englishmen, whether from ignorance or pride, ge¬ 
nerally pay without demur ; but this custom ought 
to be broken through, particularly in a country 
where poverty is the best safeguard, and where os¬ 
tentation renders one’s self and others subject to 
imposition and to danger. 

Agreed to pay four thousand paras for man and 
camel, and to this I promised a becksheesh condi¬ 
tionally, but no money was to be expected till I 
should find the banker at the end of my journey. 
I believe that an Arab would rather have the value 
of two pounds sterling, if called by that good round 
name—four thousand paras—than half as much 
again, if merely denominated one hundred and 
twenty piastres ; and he would rather take less by 
five hundred than give up the idea of becksheesh, 
though he be certain that the becksheesh will not 
amount to half that sum. 

There was still one point unsettled— the nom 
de voyage; as we were to pass for Turks, it was 
judged as well not to make use of names that would 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 241 

betray us as Christians. One of my servants is a 
Greek, and you may therefore guess his name is 
Nicholas; the other is a Maltese, and his is there¬ 
fore Giovanni # ; but it had pleased my godfathers 
and godmothers not to borrow from the New Tes¬ 
tament, and having a name which is neither Chris¬ 
tian nor Turkish, I adopted one which is both— 
Joseph. 

* The tutelar Saint of Malta is John—Johannes; Giovanni; 
and by the Arab Christians called Anna or Hannah. 


It 


242 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XXII. 

DEPARTURE FROM MOUNT SINAI. 

The superior told me a long history of the poverty 
of the convent, expressed himself grateful for what 
I gave him, and presented me with two large prints 
on holy subjects, and his blessing. Five Arabs, 
with their camels, were now in attendance beneath 
the walls; I fixed myself once more in the noose, 
and was lowered into the arms of my guide. 

It is not unusual, previous to embarking on an 
expedition of danger, to demand the Arab assurance 
of fidelity, and I had now an opportunity of wit¬ 
nessing this ceremony. On mentioning the subject 
to the elder of the party, he immediately drew his 
sword, placed some salt upon the blade, and then 
put a portion of it into his mouth, and desired me 
to do the same; and “ now, cousin,” said he, “ your 
life is as sacred to me as my own; ” or, as he ex¬ 
pressed himself, “ Son of my uncle, your head is 
upon my shoulders.” My head being upon his 
shoulders rendered us consanguineous, by eating 
together we became friends*, and that friendship 
was to be maintained by the naked sword. Salt is 

* By the law a Mohammedan may not eat with a Christian, as 
by so doing he would be no longer an enemy. 


THE OASIS BCE ItlS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 243 

considered by the Arab as so necessary to life, that 
he often carries a portion of it about his person. 
Tlie itinerant bakers in Egypt, on selling a roll, 
offer a pinch of salt and carraway seeds; but Je- 
lusalem, when it was taken, and ploughed up, 
was sown with salt. Judas, in the celebrated pic- 
tuie of the last supper, by Leonardo-da-Vinci, is 
represented in the act of overturning the salt¬ 
cellar. 

The camels were speedily laden, and I bade adieu 
to the convent. The journey was calculated at ten 
days, and for this the monks had supplied me with 
that food of the desert-^-loaves and fishes; I was 
provided also with rice, coffee, and sago. My 
guides had pledged their faith, so that if I had pre¬ 
viously felt under any apprehension, I was now 
willing to accredit the usual character of the Be¬ 
douin. I had two servants with me, one of whom, 
the Maltese, had been some years a sailor, and con¬ 
sequently I believed him to be courageous; the 
other was a Greek—but what of that?—he could 
not steal much from me,-and as to the hour of dan¬ 
ger, I had only to hope that there would be no oc¬ 
casion for his running away. 

Ere we had been two hours and a half on our 
journey, the guides stopped at a few gipsy tents, 
under pretence of purchasing food, but really for 
the purpose of wasting time—the place is called 
Sarlahk. 


244 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


Our second stoppage occurred at the burial place 
of a saint j here the Arabs added each a stone to the 
heap that is raised to perpetuate his memory; the 
elder of the party performed his prayers very ce¬ 
remoniously, and having done so, he took some 
dust from the holy ground and sprinkled it on the 
head of the camel on which I rode; this was his 
own, and it was hoped that by this means, as by 
the sprinkling of holy water on the horses at Rome*, 
the animal would be preserved from accidents. 

We paused next at a detached mass of rock, 
which is called Mohammed’s seat; on one of its 
sides is a slight excavation, or shallow basin ; but 
it is so formed on an inclined plane that it would 
be impossible for any ordinary mortal to retain his 
place in it. Arab superstition requires that some 
one should be in the chair, and it is accordingly 
called the resting place of the prophet;—in En¬ 
gland it would be called the Devil’s seat. The 
pious Mussulman never goes by it without strew¬ 
ing it with herbs, and we all did so likewise. 

Knowing this stone to be situated on the road to 
Suez, I taxed my guide with deviating from our 
plan; he excused himself by declaring that there 
is no other commencement to the journey; that on 
the morrow he would lead us towards the north, 
but that for the present he must request me to turn 
westward, as it was intended to pass the night 
among some friends. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 245 

As the sun went down the alarm of the Greek 
increased, and, unable any longer to conceal his ap¬ 
prehensions, he told me that one of our party had, 
in the character of a guide, already murdered a 
traveller that was under his protection. The cir¬ 
cumstance had been related to him by one of the 
papas at the moment when I had descended from 
the convent, and when my impatience compelled 
him to leave the story unfinished. Without further 
delay I desired an explanation, and one of the 
Arabs, stepping forward, gave me the following: 
—he had once undertaken to conduct a stranger, 
who happening in the course of the journey to 
precede him by some little distance, was fired at 
from behind a rock, but not hit; he, in duty to 
his charge, ran to his assistance, and killed the 
robber , while in the act of reloading his musket. 

As evening advanced we turned from our road 
to a small encampment called Garbah, and were 
hospitably received; a fire was lighted — coffee 
prepared—and orders given to kill and boil a kid : 
without waiting for the latter part of the entertain¬ 
ment, I retired to my mattress, which was spread 
upon the sand, sheltered from the wind by a lofty 
rock, and canopied by heaven. I confess I now 
began to regard things with a jaundiced eye, and 
while I ought to have been sleeping, I was think¬ 
ing of being slxot at. The Arabs amused them- 


246 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


selves with eating, smoking, and story-telling, till 
after midnight. 

April 25—2nd day. About eight o’clock in the 
morning we resumed our journey, and in half an 
hour regained our course in the valley of Barak. 
In this valley is the second stone struck by Moses, 
and I desired my guides to point it out—they pre¬ 
tended ignorance of it altogether; however, I saw 
many marked in a manner similar to that at the 
foot of Mount Sinai. 

About mid-day two of my guides declared their 
intention of going by the Wadi Faran, and re¬ 
quested me to visit their encampment; this I de¬ 
clined, for two reasons ; I knew that it was in the 
ordinary route to Suez, and I was glad to get rid 
of these, the two eldest; I had already found them 
dilatory, and whenever I urged them forward they 
used to answer me like my Sicilian muleteers— 
Sir, Sir, one step at a time ; when I told them that 
it was necessary to be at Jerusalem by a certain 
day, they would reply with German apathy, that 
I ought to have set out sooner; and when I argued 
upon the probability of succeeding in my wishes, 
they would throw the blame from their own shoul¬ 
ders, and say—if it so pleases God. Having made 
arrangements for overtaking us, they turned off to 
the W. while we diverged to the N.: they were 
no sooner out of sight than I offered to double the 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 247 


becksheesh if we should arrive at Jerusalem with¬ 
out waiting for them, and the bargain was agreed 
to. We rested our camels at two large blocks of 
granite, lying at the foot of a temporary water¬ 
course, beneath which the sand presents a beauti¬ 
ful appearance, from the quantity of mica inter¬ 
spersed with it. We soon arrived at an Arab burial- 
ground— the graves are marked by stakes and 
stones. Another of my guides ran off to pay a 
visit; this, I imagine, was done on purpose to re¬ 
tard me. We passed the night in a place called 
Sighyard, alias Hazle-ain. 

26._3d day. We were no sooner mounted than 

I goaded my camel to some distance in advance, as 
well for the pleasure of looking for birds as to 
excite the others. On a sudden some pedestrian 
Arabs came in sight; I changed my small shot for 
ball, and turned back to look for my party; they 
were not far behind, and on my looking round 
again, the cause of my alarm had disappeared 
among the rocks. We next descended into a nar¬ 
row valley, abounding in trees: in our path were 
several sacks of charcoal, and many other useful 
articles, but without any visible owner. Our guides 
walked round and admired them ; and, whatever 
might have been their inclinations, they certainly 
did not touch any thing;—there is honesty among 
Arabs. Presently we spoke to a man chopping 
wood, and I recognized him as the gardener of 


248 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

Mount Sinai. Some of the trees in this valley be¬ 
longed to him and his clan, and he had come 
hither to make charcoal; this he carried to Cairo, 
to exchange for corn. Charcoal in Cairo, and corn 
in Arabia Petrsea, must be of great value, that a 
few sacks of it should, by the exchange, repay a 
journey of twelve days* through the desert ; and 
the honesty of Arabs towards one another must be 
remarkable, when it allows things of such conse¬ 
quence to remain by the way-side untouched. 

Met a strolling village;—the men on foot, the 
women on camels, the children on asses; their 
bedding supplied the place of saddles; and their 
furniture, and their very houses, were tied up with 
a bit of string, and fastened to the sides of the 
animals. The furniture of a Bedouin consists in 
little more than utensils for coffee : a few stakes 
and a few yards of cloth constitute a house. Be¬ 
douins do not require a day to build a town; and 
at an hour’s notice they change their residence 
from one place to another. 

Finding that my remaining guides were deaf to 
the voice of becksheesh, and determined to await 
their friends, I expressed a wish to visit the Writ¬ 
ten Mountains, but they were now behind us; I 


* From this valley to Cairo, and return to Mount Sinai. The 
Arabs of this part are supposed to be under the dominion of the 
Pasha of Egypt, and hold no intercourse with Syria. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 249 

then turned my thoughts to Sarbat al Kardem, and 
having sent the camels forward, we proceeded thi¬ 
ther on foot. After two hours’ march we arrived 
at a water-course, by this we ascended with much 
difficulty to the top of the mountain, and here we 
found a temple and a variety of upright stones; 
the tout ensemble resembling a church and church¬ 
yard. The temple was never remarkable for size, 
design, or execution ; it has likewise not been 
spared by the evil genius of Egypt; its paltry re¬ 
mains are almost overwhelmed by sand ; labour and 
curiosity have laid open the wrecks of a few small 
chambers, and uncovered the fragments of a sta¬ 
tue, and the diminutive mimicry of an Egyptian 
pillar. The monumental tablets are only two feet 
wide, eight inches thick, and from six to nine feet 
fyigh. On the eastern and western sides of all are 
hieroglyphics, and even on the four sides of some 
of them ; but the destroying power has caused the 
“ east wind to blow” so that the hieroglyphics 
which were exposed to its effects are defaced. 
There is no beauty whatever on the spot, either in 
art or nature, but it is peculiarly interesting. This 
Egyptian stile of tomb-stones is unique.—With the 
mummies at Sacchara are found small round-head¬ 
ed engraved tablets. The hieroglyphics in this 
place appear to me in some measure varying from 
those of Egypt, and intermixed with the Persepo- 
Jitan character. The pillar, like those of Dendera, 


250 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


represents the head of Isis; but in this instance 
the hair forms a curl on either side of the neck ; 
this is the more remarkable as the volute of the 
Ionic order is said to be conceived from the same 
idea; Isis is the same as Io. We rejoined our 
camels, and made a good fire : it now commenced 
to rain, which, excepting a few drops at Cairo, is 
the first that I have seen for seven months;—as 
long as it lasted I was wishing for a tent. 

27 th.— 4 th day. In three hours we arrive at 
the foot of a chain of hills * ; the ascent employed 
us one hour and a half; arrived at the top, we find 
ourselves directly N. of Sarbat el Kardem.—See 
also Mount Sinai, Mount Serbahl, and Mount 
Egrib. We have now quitted the Suez road.— 
We passed the night near a large pool of excellent 
water. 

28th.—Our guides came up with us at sunrise 
—took in water for three days—shot a speckle¬ 
headed partridge. 2Qth and 30th.—During the 
sixth and seventh days of our journey we met with 
only two incidents: — One evening when I had 
taken my place for the night, the clouds thickened 
rapidly; without much warning it came on to rain, 
and when it did come, it poured. I took up my 
bed and walked ; but I was already drenched; the 
storm did not last five minutes, but it was like a 
water-spout. 

* Called either Te, or Errahkney, or both. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 251 

My guides mentioned that we should be obliged 
to pass close to a fortress, where, if seen, I should 
most probably be robbed of all my luggage ; per¬ 
haps my clothes, my liberty, and even my life ; it 
was therefore proposed that we should lie by till 
night, and I accordingly agreed with the opinions 
of my guides. Soon after an Arab came in sight, 
and from him we learnt that there was only one 
man in the castle, and I then persuaded the guides 
to proceed. About a quarter past six p. m. we 
came within sight of a small square fortress *, si¬ 
tuate near the meeting of two deep brooks; ar¬ 
rived within a hundred yards of this place, we 
saw a man on the look-out, and he immediately 
retired. I was some fifty yards in advance, and 
happening to observe three other men run hastily 
by the door-way, my suspicions were excited; es¬ 
pecially as we had been told that there was only 
one person in the fortress. Three paths now of¬ 
fered themselves to my choice; one led within a 
few yards of the building, and the farthest from it 
was just within gun-shot; I chose the middle one, 
and slackened my pace, so that the rest of my 
party had come up by the time that we were a- 
breast of the door-way. At this moment there was 
nobody to be seen. A lad now came forward to 
know who we were, and what our business: my 
guides returned for answer, that I was carrying 
* Called Nahkley, or the date-tree. 


£52 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

despatches from the Pasha of Egypt to him of 
Acre; the youth went back, and we advanced 
very slowly. I had taken particular notice that no 
salutation whatever passed between the messenger 
and our party, and this being so great a devia¬ 
tion from Arab custom, as far as I had hitherto 
seen, I was induced to inquire the cause. My 
guide answered me, that the salutation was a token 
of peace and friendship, and could not possibly be 
given on this occasion, as we should probably be 
compelled to fight. The lad came forward a se¬ 
cond time, and requested that I would alight and 
take coffee. My guides reminded me that I could 
certainly hope for nothing better than to be allow¬ 
ed to go back naked to Suez, even if I escaped 
with my life; I therefore declined the invitation, 
and we proceeded slowly forward. The lad turned 
back, and eight men armed, four of them with 
matchlocks, hastened after us; we accordingly 
prepared for action. We were equal in point of 
numbers, but our arms were limited to two guns, 
two pistols, three swords, and lances. We stopped 
the camels — our adversaries were by this time 
within shot, and I considered myself justified in 
taking the advantage that an English gun would 
give me over the matchlocks of the country; I cal¬ 
culated on killing one at least while they should 
be striking a light, and took my aim accordingly. 
Our adversaries, finding us in earnest, stopped 


THE oasis BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 255 

short j one of my own guides threw the mouth of 
my musket into the air, and entreated me not to 
commence hostilities. The enemy receded, and 
my servant, Giovanni, proposed to attack them; 
but the guides were too well pleased not to pro¬ 
ceed in their journey. There was one advantage 
attending this incident, we travelled later than we 
should otherwise have done. 

This fortress El Nahkley is, I believe, the boun¬ 
dary between the Pashalics of Egypt and Acre, 
and therefore, within the pale of both; it was for 
that reason that my guides said I was carrying de¬ 
spatches from one governor to the other. There is, 
probably, some fine or custom to be paid in pass¬ 
ing, and it was, perhaps, to save nine pence or a shil¬ 
ling that my guides had thus exposed their charge. 

1st May.—Early on this the eighth day we pur¬ 
sued our route; about one o’clock we descended 
into a large plain of sand: at this time the wind 
was getting up, and the air soon became so thick 
that even if we did manage to open our eyes, it 
was impossible to see ten yards. We had pre¬ 
viously observed a number of trees and shrubs for¬ 
tunately to leeward, and we hastened to them for 
shelter j here we managed to protect ourselves: 
the sand-storm was over in an hour, and we re¬ 
sumed our journey. About four o’clock we came 
within sight of an encampment of Bedouins ; a tali 
figure clothed in red was seated on a rock, at about 


0,54 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

half a mile from the tents: as we approached to¬ 
wards him, he hurried homeward. A drizzling rain 
was falling at this moment, and was in my opinion 
the occasion of his speed; my guides seemed to 
think otherwise, and paused for some minutes in 
consultation: they were evidently where they did 
not consider that they had a right * to be. It was 
now resolved that I should pass for a Turk carry¬ 
ing despatches from Suez to Jerusalem, on no ac¬ 
count whatever to mention Mount Sinai, nor to be¬ 
tray ourselves as Christians ; and this point settled, 
it was resolved to visit the tribe. 

We passed through various flocks of sheep and 
goats guarded by shepherdesses, and arrived at the 
gipsy tents; they were scattered irregularly around. 
Every habitation presents a walling of three sides, 
formed with camel-hair cloth about four feet high; 
a covering is thrown over, and this is divided into 
chambers for the men, the women, and the cattle. 
We advanced towards the largest, which proved to 
be that of the red-cloaked figure, that had disap¬ 
peared at our approach; he now got up and wel¬ 
comed us, and, taking up the stakes at one side, 
enlarged his house to make room for us; a fire was 
lighted in a corner, and coffee and pipes were pre¬ 
pared : orders were given to kill a kid, and we 
were all seated very comfortably together, when 
some suspicion arose in his mind as to my being a 

* We had now entered into Syria. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 255 


Turk. He began to examine my guides and my¬ 
self ; I answered him in Arabic, that I understood 
but little of his language, but would talk as much 
Turkish as he pleased: I spoke the only two words 
of which I was master; and, on his declaring utter 
ignorance of the language, I discoursed with my 
servants in Italian. He was easily convinced that the 
Maltese was an Arab, and that the Greek was a Turk, 
but there still remained much doubt as to me; he 
appealed to the eldest of the guides, who declared 
that I was a Turk : he then put his hand upon his 
beard and said Wallah! (really, or by G—!) My 
guide put his hand also upon his beard, and took 
his oath of it, repeating with great emphasis Waal- 
lahh! The evening passed off pleasantly enough. 
A pack of naked children came, and rolled about 
in the sand ; the sheep and goats joined the party; 
and it was equally astonishing and amusing to ob¬ 
serve how these horned animals submitted quietly 
to the pinches and caresses of the children, and 
with what caution they passed over the bodies of the 
naked infants. My mattress was placed in a cor¬ 
ner, and the goats came frequently to play with 
me ; perhaps it was the pleasure that I evinced on 
the occasion which betrayed me. 

2d May, 9th day.—Our host is in stature far 
above the common height of man, in figure grace¬ 
ful, in feature handsome, in expression command¬ 
ing, and noble in deportment; vain of his beauty, 


£56 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

lie girds his brows with an expensive shawl; and 
proud of his superiority, he assumes a long flowing 
mantle of red. I had been so pleased with his 
manners and hospitality, that I made him a suitable 
present *, and he in return offered to conduct me 
to Jerusalem by a route two days shorter than that 
which had been planned. I accepted his offer; 
and we were on the point of setting out, when the 
chief of a neighbouring clan joined our party: he 
rode with us till we made our mid-day halt, and 
on taking leave he demanded his becksheesh, I 
asked upon what pretension ; he admitted that he 
had performed no service, and had no other claim 
except that having once met a traveller near the 
Written Mountains he asked for becksheesh, and 
received a handsome present without any question 
being asked. I saw my imprudence in my morn¬ 
ing’s gift: I had thrown aside the custom of 
Turks, and the safeguard of strangers, and I was 
now called upon to establish a custom that might 
not only be injurious to future travellers, but create 
also at present an idea of superfluous money. On 
these considerations I positively refused to give him 
any thing, and he went his way. 

We pursued our course, and about an hour be¬ 
fore sun-set came within sight of two large stone 
buildings, having the appearance of fortresses, and 

* By the advice of my servant, I limited the present to two 
dollars. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 257 

situate on the edge of a lofty rock; in the vale 
beneath were some stone houses in ruins, a variety 
of trees and shrubs were growing in a water-course, 
and a small quantity of corn indicated that though 
the houses were deserted, the arable soil was still 
resorted to. I hastened forwards to gratify my 
curiosity, and found a square building, composed 
of laboured sand-stone; it is thirty-six paces in 
length, about twenty-five feet in height, and having- 
loop-holes ; a considerable breach has been forced 
through the wall: here are some fragments of pil¬ 
lars two feet in diameter. The second building is 
much the larger; in this is a circular dungeon, 
and a reservoir thirty-two feet deep, two-thirds of 
which are built, the remaining one is cut in the 
live rock ; also the vestiges of a Greek church— 
the large and two smaller recesses or altars are but 
little injured. While I was proceeding in my sur¬ 
vey, the guides, running up in great haste and 
some alarm, desired me to come forth ; for Turks 
would not have the curiosity to look at even the 
noblest edifices of Jours, and certainly Hot the pa¬ 
tience to measure and investigate a building not 
worth imitating and not worth seeing: I acknow¬ 
ledged the truth of the remark, and saw no in¬ 
ducement to disobey. 

Distant hence about two miles, our red guide 
proposed to visit a clan encamped on the neigh¬ 
bouring hill side. I urged my despatches, but 
s 

d 


258 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

without effect; he insisted, that to pass by a tribe 
without calling, would be a deviation from friend¬ 
ship, that the darkness would compel us soon to 
halt, that in such case we should be regarded with 
suspicion, and probably attacked during the night. 
I was, therefore, obliged to do as Bedouins do. 
As we approached the encampment a number of 
men ran into their tents, and showing their heads 
over the walling, took aim at us with their match¬ 
locks. In Egypt I had been complimented in the 
same manner, but I now felt particularly awkward; 
my guide desired me to take my hand from my 
gun, and we advanced bravely: the men threw 
down their matchlocks, enlarged the walls, slaugh¬ 
tered a kid, and prepared coffee. Of this I did not 
think to partake, for my head ached so excessively, 
that I desired a servant to draw my bedding into 
a corner of the tent, and there I endeavoured to 
compose myself to sleep. The fire was blazing, 
the kid boiling, the camels fed—the pipes lighted, 
the coffee in circulation, and our party increased by 
ten or a dozen strangers—nothing was now want¬ 
ing but the kid; when in came the man, to whom 
in the morning I had refused becksheesh. He had 
no sooner taken his station than he denounced us 
as Christians, asserting that as such we were subject 
to be deprived of every thing scarcely excepting 
our lives. Our new hosts saw the propriety of this 
reasoning, and insisted upon knowing whether we 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 259 

were, or were not, Christians : our guides declared 
that we were Mohammedans, and our red-coated 
friend swore to it; under the deception that had 
been put upon him, he was determined in our de¬ 
fence. The disappointed chief still persisted in his 
assertions; the words on both sides grew louder, and 
the affair assumed so serious an aspect that I called 
for my gun; it had till now been in the hands of the 
Greek, he having charge of the luggage. The 
Maltese brought it to me, and placed himself by 
my side ; and the whole of my guides in a manner 
that I could not have expected, ranged themselves 
in order of battle, every sword was drawn, when the 
red-mantled chieftain demanded one moment’s at¬ 
tention. “ Stop,” says he, “ you know that six of 
you dare not look me in the face, you know who 
and what I am ; I will not deny that you may over¬ 
power us by numbers, but be aware also that my 
clan will extirpate yours. I brought these stran¬ 
gers to your hospitality ; and whether they be 
Turks or Christians, behave to them as you would 
behave to me.” These words, spoken by such a 
man and in such a tone, had the desired effect; 
our adversaries put up their swords, reconciling 
themselves to this species of defeat by observing, 
“ You are under our roofs, and we may not be the 
aggressors.” The coolness of the Maltese had 
excited great astonishment, and one of them asked 
how it happened that he was not afraid ? “I do 
s 2 


260 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


not belong to your nation,” was his reply. This 
war of words had lasted about two hours, and on 
its ceasing, notice was given that the kid was boil¬ 
ed. The man that went to fetch it brought back 
with him the Greek servant*, who had strayed to 
a little distance : and there were other little parti¬ 
culars attending the circumstance, which afforded 
considerable amusement to the Arabs for the rest 
of our journey. There was also one thing to be 
lamented: during his absence from the baggage, 

* I must do Nicholai the justice to observe, that whenever I 
offered him an escort and his choice of going by any route 
which was considered safer than the one I had determined upon 
for myself, he invariably preferred accompanying me. On the 
other hand, Giovanni, on one occasion, positively refused ; he had 
a presentiment that I should be attacked by banditti (and so I 
was) ; and he made for excuse, that he was “ too courageous — 
that he was a youth who could brook nothing, and his rashness 
would expose all the party to destruction. He was, in fact, too 
passionate; and his invariable advice to me was, whenever I wield¬ 
ed the baton, which was very seldom, “ It is no use to hit the 
back, hit the head —that breaks.” While in Egypt, it was with 
considerable difficulty that my dragoman Mohammed, and my¬ 
self, prevented him from beating the Reiss to death—the green tur- 
baned Reiss, for whom I had at first some respect, and whom even¬ 
tually I turned out of the boat. Giovanni Fiamingo intends to esta¬ 
blish his quarters at Cairo, and to accompany travellers any where 
except to Syria. I recommended him to my friends, Waddington 
and Hanbury ; he went with them to Dongola, and brought their 
horses to England. I have since seen him; he would rather go to 
Dongola twenty times than once from Mount Sinai to Gaza—that 
“ periculosissimo viaggio.” 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 261 

some of the Arabs, probably of our own party, 
had pilfered nearly all our ammunition. The ar¬ 
rival of supper put us all in good humour, except¬ 
ing the disappointed chief; without waiting to par¬ 
take of it, he swore eternal enmity to the leader 
of our guides, and withdrew. The evening passed 
off pleasantly enough, examining my gun, and cal¬ 
culations on the distance that it would bring a man 
down ; one of the party related a story, in which 
he had killed a man at two hundred yards. Our 
conversation turned on murder and medicine, and 
I on my side ventured on antiquities; concerning 
such things our friends knew but little ; of the 
ruins that I had passed that evening, they could 
only inform me that it was called the stone (El 
Hadjar), but that there were three old towns about 
two days distant to the east; and when I asked if 
they were worth seeing, they answered me that 
they had only found wood there for two days’ firing. 

2d May, 9th day.—Early this morning I missed 
our red guide, and immediately the idea of trea¬ 
chery flashed across my mind ; after waiting up¬ 
wards of an hour he made his appearance, and his 
excuse was that his dromedary had strayed and he 
had been in search of it—this might be true, and 
perhaps I was wrong in feeling any doubt upon the 
subject. We took leave of our hosts without pay¬ 
ing, and yet good friends, even though suspected 
to be Christians. We soon came within sight of 


262 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

another clan : two men came forward, and, stating 
that they had “ a fair fat lamb,” invited us to come 
and partake of it. This I declined as civilly as 
possible, but not without giving some little offence; 
our party, however, made a promise to eat with 
them on their return, and we proceeded. One of 
our guides turned off to some distance for a supply 
of water; we had just descended a sandbank 
when a stranger gallopped in among us : his dress, 
his dromedary*, and his beard proclaimed his con¬ 
sequence ; he might be about sixty years of age, 
his eyes sparkled as if with anger, and addressing 
himself to our red-mantled chieftain, he invited 
us to turn aside to his clan, and eat with him. 
This I declined—he commanded, and I refused; he 
threatened, and our warrior “cursed his beardt!” 
The words were no sooner uttered than both par¬ 
ties leaped to the ground; one—unsupported in 
the midst of the eight men, whom he looked upon 
as enemies, and armed only with a single pistol, 
he rushed forward to avenge the insult; the other, 
fired with equal rage, poised his spear and ran to 
the attack. Giovanni seized hold of the pistol, 
and the Arabs placed themselves between the par¬ 
ties ; they then deprived the bearded lion of his 
strength, and told him to retire, and, he still threat- 

* A dromedary differs from a camel in its make, its uses, and 
its master 3 as a hunter differs from a pack-horse. 

t The greatest insult that can be offered to an Arab. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 263 

ening, “ if you do not choose to come to my clan, 
my clan shall come to you,” led away his drome¬ 
dary. I insisted on his pistol being restored to 
him ; the Arab commissioned to the office robbed 
it of its priming, and the old hero replaced it in 
his belt. The rest of our party proceeded onward. 
I waited to see the commission executed; when 
observing the heads of three men peeping over the 
sand-hill, I felt some apprehension for the safety 
of him that had gone in search of water, and de¬ 
sired the pistol-bearer to wait for his friend: this he 
refused ; and I therefore waited myself. In a few 
minutes I had the pleasure of seeing him advance 
unmolested by the videttes, and we overtook our 
party. There was one advantage attendant on the 
adventure of this day: we travelled nearly eleven 
hours, even our red-mantled chief was afraid to stop 
where we had intended. My Greek servant proved 
too of considerable use—he never closed his eyes 
all night. 

In the course of conversation it came out, that 
our red friend had formerly been in the habits of 
intimacy with the angry warrior; he had borrowed 
of him a few camels and fifty sheep, and having 
no intention whatever of repaying him, he had 
avoided him for the last two years!—Here, then, 
was the secret; and it was presumed that the man 
who had the preceding evening proclaimed us as 
Christians, knowing of this existing feud, had given 


264 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

notice of our passing. Our conversation now 
turned upon medicine, and I was offered three 
camels and nine sheep if I would go into the de¬ 
sert on the following day, to cure a sick friend; 
but I had already become very suspicious of our 
William of Deloraine. 

3rd May.—10th day. We pursued our route: 
early this morning met several strolling villages— 
passed over a large plain of verdure, on which 
were grazing an immense herd of camels—they 
are all marked, and belong to tribes far and near. 

About two o’clock we came to an encampment, 
were it was resolved to rest ourselves. One of 
my guides, in taking off the luggage, placed my 
gun in such a situation, intentionally , that unless I 
had snatched it up, the camel would have knelt 
upon it, and broken it. The chief came out to 
welcome us, and led me into his tent, he then 
stooped to the ground, and spreading out the bo¬ 
som of his shirt, said to me, “ Son of my uncle, 
if thou hast nothing else to sleep on, thou shalt 
rest thee here.” He then prepared the coffee, and 
went to the tents of the females for a sheep. As 
soon as it was killed, skinned, and boiled, it was 
chopped to pieces, put into a large wooden bowl, 
and placed in the midst of us; our table was a 
sheep-skin, and this served also for wearing-apparel. 
Our host commenced^ by helping himself; and 
having thus convinced us that he could recom- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 265 

mend it as not being poisoned, we were desired to 
partake ; bread and vegetables—knives and forks 
are not in use in this part of the world, and we 
made our repast, a Y Arabe, my bosom friend taking 
particular care whenever he pulled forth a piece of 
fat to throw it into my lap;—as to fat there is little 
or no fat o’ the land, even in the land flowing with 
milk and honey. During the operation two others 
joined the party; I had observed them coming 
across the desert from a long distance—they had 
come straight to the right tent, and as soon as the 
feast was finished they departed in an opposite di¬ 
rection. Imagining them to be strangers, I en¬ 
quired concerning them of my host; he told me 
that they were travellers*, who, casually passing, 
had seen our camels halt, and therefore knew that 
a sheep would be killed, and that they should be 
welcome;—he had never seen them before; but 
he also expected, through whatever tribe he passed, 
to be furnished with food. 

While the camels were being reladen, our host 
was called forth by the William of Deloraine, and 
when he returned, he said very archly, “there is 
yet one lamb to be killed.*’ I immediately con¬ 
cluded that we were betrayed, as Christians; and 
the fact was proved, by my host requesting beck- 
sheesh: he modestly hinted that the turban from 

* These men had nothing with them but a cap, a shirt, a belt, 
a spear, and a pair of sandals each. 


266 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


my head would be well received ; he became very 
importunate, but when he did repeat “ there is yet 
one lamb to be killed,” he did it in such a manner 
as if he knew the fate of Judas, and remembering 
that we had dipped into the same dish He had 
previously told me that our journey would be ter¬ 
minated on the following morning, and I pro¬ 
mised him that if he would become our guide, and 
fulfil our expectations, I would reward him for that. 
He put on his spear, and we pursued our route. 

Saw several tortoises — arrived, about seven 
o’clock, at the edge of a wide river bed, nearly 
dry; we were here equidistant from Hellaale (He¬ 
bron), and from Gaza, the former N. the latter W. 
and which would I prefer—Gaza. 

Forded the stream—encamped for the last time 
—this part much infested with thieves—our lug¬ 
gage is heaped up all together—and our camels 
and ourselves form a guard around it. 

4th May.—11th day. By dawn I had com¬ 
pelled every body to be ready—entered on a cul¬ 
tivated plain—disturbed a herd of gazelles at their 
morning amusement among the corn—approach 
an encampment of Bedouins — their tents are 
pitched in circle—this is the first attempt at regu¬ 
larity that I have yet seen—it almost denotes a dif¬ 
ferent race of people—three of our guides go for¬ 
ward, and request permission to pass—granted— 
* See p. 243. 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 207 

and we pursued our way. Arrive at the top of a 
ridge of hills, and behold the ocean !—This was, 
perhaps, the most grateful moment that ever I ex¬ 
perienced. I had been journeying in a desert, and 
now beheld the noblest feature in nature; I had 
been exposed to ceaseless danger; and henceforth 
my safeguard is the flag of my country; I had 
been friendless and alone, and there is now but one 
step to England. The sons of Africa, mounted 
on the Alps, felt not such delight in surveying the 
plains of Italy, as I now felt in looking on the vale 
of Ascalon. The harassed Greeks, whose every 
step was toil, and every thought was woe, knew 
not such rapture when first the sea burst upon their 
view, as I now felt while gazing on the ocean that 
invited me to my country, and the waves of which 
were dancing round my home. 

The vale of Ascalon is enamelled with flowers; 
among others, our garden pink assumes the place 
of daisies. A large herd of camels were grazing 
at some little distance; two of our guides ran to¬ 
wards them, and finding one with a wooden bowl 
hanging to its side, they milked the animal, 
drank, and replaced the vessel; this custom em¬ 
braces a reciprocal advantage. In the mean time I 
was hurrying forward, when on a sudden my camel 
stopped short; I spoke to it, but without effect; 
I goaded it gently, but in vain ; at length I struck 
it, and it immediately threw itself viciously upon 


268 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

its side flinging me with considerable force. My 
guides ran up ; not to assist me, but to see if their 
camel was hurt; and told me, without hesitation, 
that if I had not paid so much money for the use of 
it, I should have paid in person; that a camel was of 
more service to an Arab than the life of a Christian, 
and that I might comparatively with impunity have 
struck their wives and their children. This was 
the camel that had been sprinkled with holy dust; 
and the cause of our quarrel was, its refusal to pass 
by a small snake that lay coiled up in the path. 
The snake is dreaded by almost all animals—ex¬ 
cepting the stork and the cat—the stork is held 
sacred because it destroys snakes—and the cat is 
said to have been introduced into Cyprus for the 
same purpose—hence the name ‘ Capo di Gatto.’ 

When within half a mile of Gaza, our Arabs drew 
up under a bank, and told me that their agreement 
was at an end. They refused to go into the town ; 
and if we had taken the route to Jerusalem, they 
would not have entered Hebron, for they did not 
belong to Syria, and the camelliers of the country 
would punish them for robbing them of their live¬ 
lihood : the Maltese must now be sent to the bank¬ 
ers for their money, and for animals. There might 
be other reasons also for their refusal. The man 
who had joined us last came to me in a very cring¬ 
ing manner, begging that I would not order him to 
be bastinadoed, instead of having becksheesh ; I 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 269 


then assured him that I was not a Turk. He told 
me that, in paying four thousand paras for each 
man and camel from Mount Sinai to Gaza or He¬ 
bron, I should pay four times too much, that the 
proper charge was one thousand. The monks in 
the convent had assured me, that four thousand 
was a very moderate demand; and they did so, not 
perhaps because they were Greeks, but because 
they were afraid to contradict the Arabs. It is the 
fashion for every traveller, judging as he does from 
the casual circumstances that occur under his own 
eyes, to condemn all Greeks together. Can this be 
just?—I certainly do not know a single trait why 
they should not—nor would I undertake to find 
three good men amongst them, to save the nation ! 

Giovanni had special orders to inquire for a pas¬ 
sage to England or any part of Christendom, and 
to bring with him the money (which he took with 
him for that purpose), to pay the Arabs according 
to agreement. During his absence I surveyed the 
environs of Gaza j it is surrounded with gardens, 
and these are much better defended than ever this 
city of the Philistines was in the time of Samson. 
A hedge of the Indian fig-plant (fico dTndia) is 
impenetrable to either man or beast; every leaf is 
so studded with thorns that it draws blood at the 
touch. 

It is supposed that the leaf used by Adam and 
Eve, is that of the sycamore or wild fig. The com- 


270 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


mon fig grows here in great abundance; and it is 
curious to observe, how much the form of the leaf 
resembles that of the human hand. 

Giovanni returned after an absence of three 
hours; there was not a sail in the port of Gaza, and 
it was with considerable difficulty that he had suc¬ 
ceeded in finding four mules and a guide to con¬ 
duct us to Jaffa. He had seen five travellers, pass- 
ing under the names of Englishmen; but not one 
of whom could speak a word of the language. Our 
route hither from Mount Sinai, I should calculate 
at two hundred and eighty miles: we were actually 
on the journey ninety-four hours, during the ele¬ 
ven days. The animals arrived, I satisfied my 
guides, and bade them Salamm. We left Gaza with 
only one guide : this looks like safety. Mr. Henry 
Hobhouse had travelled through the country, and 
informed me, that it was so free from danger, that 
one might walk with gold upon one’s head; in the 
interchanges of friendship and accommodation that 
take-place among travellers in a desert, I presented 
him with my pistols. Met the Syrian patrole, twelve 
men well mounted and carrying long lances with 
pennants to them, like those of the Hulans: such 
police, and so many in party to go about doing 
good, alter my ideas as to the safety. The first 
man we meet is heavily armed ; sword, pistols, and 
gun: I salute him, as I have been accustomed to 
do, with “ Salam alekum,” Health or Peace to you. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 271 

He knows me to be a Christian, and returns for 
answer, not “ Alekum Salamm,” but “ Courage.” 
My guide informs me, that in this country I must 
not give the Mohammedan salutation; that if I do 
so to a strict Mussulman, he has a right to spit in 
my face, or even to shoot me; and that if he did 
happen to return my salutation, and was afterwards 
to discover his mistake, he would insist upon my re¬ 
voking or returning the “ Peace,” that he had given 
me. This is the law; and it was upon this that 
the Cahir Bey issued the sanguinary proclamation*, 
on finding that he saluted a Christian. Even our 
Saviour, in opposition to the tenor of his doctrine, 
—but in compliance with one of the most rigid cus¬ 
toms of the people among whom he lived,—says, 
“ And if the house be worthy, let your peace come 
upon it; but if it be not worthy, let your peace re¬ 
turn to you.” 

About sun-set we arrived at a wretched village, 
four hours distant from Gaza, and here my guide 
says that we must pass the night: I urge him to pro¬ 
ceed ; but he refuses, alleging that after dusk the 
road is not safe. I was easily inclined to believe 
him, for I had already observed that every man we 
met was heavily armed. The road hitherto, with 
the exception of a wood of olive trees, has been 
dull and uninteresting; the people so uncourteous 


* See p. 206. 


272 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


as not to return ray salutation, and I had therefore 
assumed Turkish pride and austerity. 

We are conducted to the village Khan. He who 
expects to find a town at every ten miles, with re¬ 
lays of horses, a warm welcome at an inn, an in¬ 
viting landlord, and a tempting larder, will be wo- 
fully disappointed in Syria ; if he can travel eight 
hours per diem, if he finds four walls to protect his 
baggage, the top of a house to sleep on, and an 
opportunity of satisfying his hunger by both beg¬ 
ging and paying for his bread, he ought to be agree¬ 
ably surprised. The poverty and paucity of tra¬ 
vellers prevent the use of relays, inns, and larders : 
the people of our resting-place are so unaccustomed 
to sell, that there is nothing for sale; the khan is a 
rough stone-house fitted up with stalls like a stable, 
and displays no little bestiality : the roof of a house 
would be the most desirable lodging in point of 
safety, salubrity, and cleanliness, but for this night 
we have no alternative. We were scarcely installed, 
when a man, passing by the opening, for there is no 
door, said in a whisper, “ Strangers, beware.” He 
soon after returned with some bread, and told us 
to be on our guard against thieves : the inhabitants 
of this village are all professionally Mohammedans, 
but many of them secretly Christians. 

The night passed without any alarm. In the 
morning my guide was afraid to leave the village 
until it was quite light. In seven hours we arrived 


Yhe oasis BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. £73 

Jaffa: the gardens are less wild, and in that re¬ 
spect less beautiful than those of Rosetta: here 
every thing betrays a scrupulous attention to meum 
and tuum, yet to see apricots, figs, and oranges 
hanging over the sea, is to be reminded of Mola 
di Gaieta, and to be delighted. 

Arrived at the town-gate; the sentinel demanded 
my firman. The one that I had expected was not 
yet arrived from Constantinople, and I could not 
enter without leave. The governor was at that 
moment asleep, and it did not please him to wake 
till I had been detained there more than three 
hours. In the mean time I sent to the English vice- 
consul; his son was so obliging as to come himself 
but being dressed as a subject of the Porte, and in 
very little authority, he could render me no assist- 
ance: at length the permission having arrived, he 
led me to his own habitation. This, as a house, is 
worse than the khan as an inn, but Buonaparte has 
put up with it: it is moreover situate close to the 
sea, and I consider the sea as always delightful, 
while I am on shore. The name of the vice-consul 
is Damiani in Italian ; he converses in French ; he 
is hospitable, though his house is poor. His dress 
is a la longue, but that part of it which covers his 
head is a triangular hat, built originally for an of. 
ficer of the navy; “this,” said my host, “is En¬ 
glish : I sent for it from London many years ago.” 
Its appearance at once proclaimed its service and 


274 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

its antiquity; he is equally proud of his English hat, 
and the honour that he had received from Buona¬ 
parte; with the latter alone he found some fault. 
“ Ah!” he exclaimed, “ the arrival of the French 
robbed me of my all; and Buonaparte, as he sat 
where you now sit, made me promises that never 
were fulfilled. ,, He then amused me with an anec¬ 
dote concerning a Turkish saint. It appears, that 
a naked man infests the streets of Jaffa; he is held 
in such veneration, that the governor himself rises 
at his approach, and the women bow down before 
him. He had once taken the liberty of insulting 
a Christian female, and the “intrepid Damien” re¬ 
solved to punish him. Knowing that a Turkish saint 
is considered an idiot not having the gift of speech, 
and that his sanctity that covers his sins is also the 
only covering that he has to his body, his secret 
enemy enticed him into his garden, and bastina¬ 
doed him to such a degree, that the fool has ever 
since avoided the contact of a Christian. 

A small fortification which has hitherto been 
called English, in compliment to Sir Sidney Smith, 
has lately received a new name ; and any one dar¬ 
ing henceforward to call it by its proper one is to 
be punished with death . 

With Antonio Damiani, the deputy vice-consul, 
I passed some hours in his garden. I had taken 
my gun with me ; several times when I am certain 
that I could have hit my mark, it flashed in the 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 27 5 

pan. We drew the charge, and found that sand 
had been substituted for the powder! How it 
came there I cannot positively say. My guides 
had, on two occasions, put themselves very faith- 
fully in order of battle ; and each of these, when 
we certainly had a right to fight, ended in less than 
smoke, but perhaps they did not consider me qua¬ 
lified to carry a gun; for when at Nahkly I was 
taking aim, one of my own party turned it aside: 
he had also endeavoured to break it, by placing it 
under a kneeling camel. It had so happened, that 
I had never once attempted to fire it from the time 
that I had loaded with ball at Nahkly: though I 
had constantly looked to the priming and rebeat 
the charge; perhaps they stole the powder, because 
it was English. 

Caught one of those elegant and extraordinary 
animals, the chameleon; green is its natural colour, 
as it lives among trees ; and, as far as I could as¬ 
certain, its power of changing is limited to vari¬ 
ations of that colour, viz. to so light a green that it 
might be called yellow, and to so dark a shade that 
it might be mistaken for blue. I have heard of one 
turning red. 

Jaffa is celebrated for the water-melon, which it 
exports to all parts of the Levant. It is supplied 
with corn from Egypt; a few small boats are in 
the harbour. Giovanni, who has a presentiment of 
t 2 


276 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

evil, refuses to accompany me to Jerusalem, and 
has taken his place on board a vessel to Damietta. 
I am furnished with an order to avoid payment of 
poll-tax in passing the village of Abou Gosh, and 
for the same immunity at entering the church of 
the Holy Sepulchre. Nicholai, three mules, and a 
guide, are in attendance. The distance to Jeru¬ 
salem might easily be performed with even such 
animals in one day, but we are to sleep at the con¬ 
vent at Ramlah. 

We stop to water at a handsome fountain erected 
by the wayside, the bequest of some pious Mus¬ 
sulman—this is charity equally serviceable to the 
rich and to the poor. 

Arrived at the convent of Ramlah, alias Ari- 
mathea ; one solitary monk is both master and ser¬ 
vant ; if he was to run away to his own country 
he could only be excommunicated, and even then 
purgatory would be doubtful, which is not in his 
present residence. Here is no housemaid, and the 
bedrooms teem with five varieties of vermin. 

During the remainder of the route there is no¬ 
thing remarkable except the side of a mountain co¬ 
vered with roses. The country now presents a sur¬ 
face of rock, like that in the neighbourhood of Sy¬ 
racuse, and suddenly we come within sight of Je¬ 
rusalem. The town is walled; we enter by an un¬ 
defended gate, and arrive at the Latin convent 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 277 

without having seen a human being. The monks 
come out to welcome me, and I am conducted to 
a small dark room, which seems to have been the 
first punishment inflicted upon all pilgrims, the 
door is well carved with the names of those who 
have been imprisoned in this black hole. 


278 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XXIII. 

JERUSALEM. 

Jerusalem is called, even by Mohammedans, “The 
Blessed City*”—the streets of it are narrow and 
deserted—the houses dirty and ragged—the shops 
few and forsaken—and throughout the whole there 
is not one symptom of either commerce, comfort, 
or happiness.—“ Is this the city that men call the 
Perfection of Beauty, the Joy of the whole Eartht ?” 

The town which appears to me not worth pos¬ 
session, even without the trouble of conquest, is 
walled entirely round; it is about a mile in length, 
and half a mile in width, so that its circumference 
may be estimated at three miles: in three quarters 
of an hour I performed the circuitt. The circum¬ 
ference of the ancient town is supposed to have 
been three miles and a half. Chateaubriand, who 
states that he read two hundred volumes on the 
subject, places Mount Calvary within the present 
walls.—Dr. Clarke differs from him—there is Chan¬ 
cery reasoning on either side. The best view of the 

* El Gootz. t Jeremiah. 

X By the regular foot-path outside the walls 5320 paces—45 
minutes. 


THE OASIS BCEItlS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 279 

town is from the Mount of Olives ; it commands the 
exact shape, and nearly every particular, viz. the 
church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Armenian con¬ 
vent, the mosque of Omar, St. Stephen’s gate, the 
round-topped houses, and the barren vacancies of 
the city. Without the walls are a Turkish burial- 
ground, the tomb of David, a small grove near the 
tombs of the kings, and all the rest is a surface of 
rock, on which are a few numbered trees. The 
mosque of Omar is the Saint Peter’s of Turkey, 
and the respective saints are held respectively by 
their own faithful, in equal veneration. The build¬ 
ing itself has a light, pagoda appearance ; the gar¬ 
den in which it stands occupies a considerable part 
of the city; and contrasted with the surrounding 
desert, is beautiful; but it is forbidden ground, 
and Jew or Christian entering within its precinct, 
must, if discovered, forfeit either his religion or his 
life. Lately, as a traveller was entering the city, 
a man snatched part of his luggage from the ca¬ 
mel, and fled there for shelter. A few days since 
a Greek Christian entered the mosque; he was a 
Turkish subject, and servant to a Turk; he was 
invited to change his religion, but refused, and 
was immediately murdered by the mob. His body 
remained exposed in the street, a passing Mussul¬ 
man, kicking up the head, exclaimed—“ That is 
the way I would serve all Christians.” One of the 
methods of justifying an assault, and of extorting 


280 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


money, is by swearing to have seen a Christian in 
the mosque, or to have heard him blaspheme the 
Prophet; and false witnesses to the fact are very 
readily found. In my ascent up the Mount of 
Olives, a slave amused himself by pelting me with 
stones; and, on proceeding to punish him, my at¬ 
tendant called me off from the pursuit, and told me 
that Blackee would probably swear to having heard 
me blaspheme the Prophet: slaves are doubly pro¬ 
tected—by the laws, and by their masters. 

The fountain of Siloa is so inconsiderable, that 
Milton, if he had been better informed concerning 
it, would not have invoked that, rather than the 
old Pierian; water is altogether so scarce, that 
when my friend, Mr. Grey, inquired the way to 
“ Siloa’s brook,” the person refused to tell him, 
giving him as a reason—“ You will write it in your 
book, and I vow to God that we shall have no wa¬ 
ter next year.” 

The tomb of David is held in great respect by 
the Turks, and to swear by it is one of their most 
sacred oaths. The tomb of the Kings is an incon¬ 
siderable excavation in the rock: three small cham ¬ 
bers, in which are receptacles for the coffins; the 
lid of a sarcophagus, of tolerable workmanship, re¬ 
mains yet unbroken, as also a stone door; but 
part of the sepulchre is not yet explored. In the 
Aceldama, or field of blood, is a square building, 
into which are thrown the bones of strangers who 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 281 

may happen to die here. This side of the moun¬ 
tain is pock-marked with sepulchral caves, like the 
hills at Thebes : concerning these, Dr. Clarke has 
made mention. The burial-place of the Jews is 
over the valley of Kedron, and the fees for break¬ 
ing the soil afford a considerable revenue to the 
governor. The tomb of Jehoshaphat is respected; 
but at the tomb of Absalom every Jew, as he passes, 
throws a stone, not like the Arab custom in so do¬ 
ing to perpetuate a memory, but to overwhelm it 
with reproach: among the tombs is one having 
an Egyptian torus and cornice, and another sur¬ 
mounted by a pyramid on a Grecian base, as if 
the geniuses of the two countries had met half 
way. There is, however, nothing so disagreeable 
in these combinations, as in the deviations from 
architecture by Mr. N. The burial place of the 
Turks is under the walls, near St. Stephen’s-gate: 
from the opposite side of the valley, I was wit¬ 
ness to the ceremony of parading a corpse round 
the mosque of Omar, and then bringing it forth 
for burial. I hastened to the grave, but was soon 
driven away; as far as my on-dit tells me, it would 
have been worth seeing: the grave is strewn with 
red earth*, supposed to be of the Ager Damas- 
cenus, of which Adamt was made; by the side 

* At Pisa is a burial-ground, part of the earth of which was 
brought from the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. 

t Adam is the Turkish word for Man, 


282 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

of the corpse is placed a stick, and the priest tells 
him that the devil will tempt him to become a 
Christian, but that he must make good use of his 
stick ; that his trial will last three days, and that 
he will then find himself in a mansion of glory, &c. 

The church of the Holy Sepulchre is a mean, 
unworthy building: it is held in respect by the 
Turks, inasmuch as they allow that our Saviour 
was a holy man , and it is guarded by them, as they 
derive great benefit by a poll-tax levied upon pil¬ 
grims at admission. It is the scene of hypocrisy, 
brutalization, and contention. The miracle of call¬ 
ing fire from heaven is more palpable, and is more 
unpardonable, than the melting of the blood of St. 
Januarius # : the orgies that take place upon the 
occasion, are worse than Bacchanalian, and the 
hatred existing between the Greek and Latin Chris¬ 
tians is diabolical: there was lately an attempt to 
massacre the latter in the very church. The Greeks, 
having most money to pay the governor, have the 
greatest possessions in the building, and they have 
at present immured the tomb of Geoffroi: every 
stone is contended for by rival parties, and be¬ 
comes a source of wealth to Mohammedans. The 
Jew may not presume to enter even the court-yard 
of the temple; I saw one unfortunate wretch 
dragged in, and, before he was kicked out, he was 


* At Naples. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 28S 

severely beaten by both Christians and Turks, 
These outcasts are so thoroughly despised that an 
angry Arab will sometimes curse a man by calling 
him, “ you Jew of a Christian.” 

The on-dit that conducted me through the re¬ 
gular routine pointed out first the via dolorosa, by 
which our Saviour carried the cross ; and here was 
the house of Pilate; and here was the prison of 
Peter ; and, among various identical places , were 
those, where Stephen was stoned, where Judas be¬ 
trayed his master with a kiss, where our Saviour 
composed the Lord’s Prayer, and whence he as¬ 
cended into heaven. But there is no box of sweet¬ 
meats, no museum of relics ; no Virgin’s garment, 
as at Aix-la-Chapelle*; no part of the crown of 

* Among the relics exhibited at Aix-la-Chapelle once in seven 
years are “ la robe blanche dont la Sainte Vierge etoit revetue 
dans l’etable de Bcthleem lors quelle mis au monde le Sauveur.” 
« Les langes ou maillots dont il est parle au 24 chapitre de Saint 
Luc.” “ Le linge dont Jesus fut ceint sur la croix lorsqu’il mou- 
rut pour nous. Les marques de son sang precieux y sont visi¬ 
bles.” 

In the churches at Rome, it is customary to hang up a list of 
its riches. During my pilgrimage, I copied among others the 
following.—In the chiesa di S. Cecilia: part of the cross, part of 
the seamless vest, two thorns from the crown of thorns, part of 
the sponge, part of the virgin’s veil, her milk, and her chemise; 
the vest of Joseph, and the point of his staff; two teeth and a 
bone of St. Peter; seven links of St. Peter’s chain; tooth of St. 
Paul; chin of St. James; part of the head and two fingers of St. 
Thomas; and Mary Magdalen’s great toe. 


284 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


thorns as in the church of St. Cecilia at Rome ; no 
vessel full of the Virgin’s milk, as in the Basilica 
di S. Croce. There is scarcely one visible object, 
excepting part of the pillar to which our Saviour 
was bound, and even this is rather to be felt than 
seen; you are allowed to touch it with a stick, and 
to see it if you can by a rush-light. I wished, but in 
vain, to discover if it were of the same material as 
that shown at Rome, and to which is attached the 
same account. 

As in Greece there is not a remarkable hill with¬ 
in the chiesa di S. Prassede, a tooth of St. Peter; a tooth of 
St. Paul; part of the Virgin Mary’s chemise; the girdle of our 
Saviour; the rod of Moses; the reed and sponge used at the 
crucifixion; part of the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul; the 
image of our Lord, which St. Peter gave to Prudentius, the fa¬ 
ther of Prassede; the towel with which our Lord wiped his dis¬ 
ciples’ feet; our Saviour’s swaddling-clothes; part of his vest 
without seams; three thorns of the crown; also the pillar to 
which was tied our Saviour at the flagellation: this is about two 
feet high, of black and white marble (Nero-bianco-antico). 

In the basilica di S. Croce, in Gerusalemme: three pieces of 
the cross, the title, which is written in Hebrew, Greek, and 
Latin; one of the nails of the cross; two of the thorns; the 
finger of St. Thomas; part of the money given to Judas; part of 
the veil and hair of the Virgin; a mass of ashes and coals, united 
into the form of a loaf by the fat of S. Lorenzo; earth of Mount 
Calvary stained with the blood of J. C; also a vessel full of his 
blood; and a vessel full of the milk of the Virgin Mary; part of 
the stone on which the angel stood at the Annunciation; of the 
tomb-stone of Lazarus; of Aaron’s rod that budded; bones of 
Thomas a Beckett; one of the stones of St. Peter’s house, &c. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 285 

out a fable, so in Palestine there is not a cave nor 
a stone without some historical anecdote from the 
New Testament. The generality of pilgrims to 
Jerusalem are Greeks; they bring acceptable of¬ 
ferings, and are probably unable to read: and 
therefore the method of the cicerone to make them 
acquainted with the life of our Saviour is commend¬ 
able ; even the Old Testament is not forgotten, 
though Titus is: the pool of Beersheba and David’s 
tower are still pointed out to believing pilgrims. 
There has been but little variation in enumerating 
the objects of curiosity for the last two hundred 
years, whether in Latin, Italian, French, or Eng¬ 
lish : Quaresmius is the most copious and correct, 
old Maundrell the most unaffected, and Chateau¬ 
briand the most enthusiastic. The best description 
of the town is by Jeremiah. 

A cave on the Mount of Olives is pointed out 
as having been the abode of the Apostles, and from 
this spot I took a drawing of Jerusalem : while at 
my occupation, some men commanded me to give 
up the paper,—but they were not armed. An 
Englishman was found drawing near the walls, and 
carried before the governor, who immediately or¬ 
dered him—a pipe and coffee. 

Made an excursion to Bethlem. The place of 
the Nativity is said to be in a small cave damp and 
under ground: it is lighted with silver lamps, and 
held in the same veneration as if it were really the 


286 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

manger. It is curious to remark among the females 
of this place a great likeness of features to those 
given to the Virgin ; but there is no picture to my 
knowledge, in which a due regard is paid either 
to the manners, the appearance, and the produc¬ 
tions of the country. In the neighbourhood is a 
small chalk grotto, where, my on-dit told me, the 
Virgin suckled her infant: the material of the cave 
is held in great veneration by the faithful, and is 
called “ the Virgin’s milk.” 

In Jerusalem I met with only one other travel¬ 
ler, Mr. Hyde: we visited many things in company 
together, and among others a small chapel, erected 
on the very spot from which our Saviour ascended 
into heaven. The anniversary of that event was 
now to be celebrated. I confess that I was asleep 
during the greater part of the time; but while my 
eyes were open I saw nothing different from com¬ 
mon mass, and nothing equal to the catchpenny 
puppet representations of the Nativity and other 
sacred events, such as were once usual in England, 
and are still to be seen in the churches at Rome 
during the Christmas week. 

The reservoir on this mountain deserves to be 
celebrated for its echo: it is superior, in my opi¬ 
nion, to that of the Casa Simoneta near Milan. We 
amused ourselves here with a pocket pistol, till 
some Arabs running up complained that we should 
cause the building to burst; paid them for per- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 287 

mission to fire twice more: by an unfortunate ac¬ 
cident broke the lock of the pistol. In our descent 
down the hill we paused to rest ourselves, and I had 
taken my seat on the root of an olive-tree, when a 
slave insisted on my standing up; this I refused, 
and he then, pointing to a Turk that was advancing 
towards me, began poking me with his musket. 
My language was now becoming very intelligible, 
when the grandee desired his slave to withdraw, 
and placing his finger upon his lip, came and 
seated himself between Mr. Hyde and me. He 
proved to be the Capo Verde, the Head of the 
Green Turbans, Representative of the Prophet, 
Governor of the Mosque of Omar, Lord Primate 
of all Turkey. No one is allowed to sit in his pre¬ 
sence ; and though I cared no more for him than 
for the Pope of Rome, yet I would have willingly 
complied with custom—he had not on a green tur¬ 
ban. As soon as he had taken his seat he gently 
rebuked me, because there was some mixture of 
green in my trowsers; he then sent three slaves to 
his house for coffee: he wished to know if we had 
any English arms or gunpowder to sell, or even to 
show him. Our attendant had hidden the pistol in 
his bosom, and declared that we had none. He 
offered to give us either shawls or horses in ex¬ 
change ; he took the shawl from his own head, and 
sent for two of his mares, for mares only are es¬ 
teemed : finding that these made no impression up- 


288 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


on us, he began to talk about the mosque of Omar; 
lie expatiated upon its superiority above all others, 
and concluded by giving us a general invitation to 
his house ; of this I promised to avail myself, not 
without some hope of entering the forbidden 
mosque, and, telling him that I was engaged for 
the following day in an excursion to the Dead Sea, 
we took our leave. 

I anticipated much gratification from a visit to 
the Jordan : the Jordan is worth seeing for its size, 

•—it is so small. It varies from two to five feet in 
depth, and forty yards in width—it is thirty miles 
from Jerusalem, yet it is the nearest and the largest 
river ; and to this, situate in a country which has 
been proverbially dangerous from the time of Lot, 
did our Saviour go to be baptized.—The Dead Sea 
is one of the curiosities of the world; the water is 
in weight and solidity like honey; Chateaubriand 
compares it to a solution of alum—the water at 
Grumpen gives in solid salt thirty-three per cent— 
the salt-mines at Hallen twenty-six—but the Dead 
Sea gives forty-eight; it is thus nearly half salt. A 
person, both traveller and Catholic, has assured me 
that he has seen under the water the ruins of Sodom 
and Gomorrah —you may add for him the pillar of 
salt. In the vicinity is found a bituminous stone, 
which, when rubbed, betrays its pitchy composi¬ 
tion : it has been said that cities built of such 
material might be probably destroyed by fire. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 289 

About eight o’clock in the morning a janissary 
was in waiting; having been repeatedly assured 
that there was “no danger on this side Jericho ” 
and scarcely believing that there was any on the 
other, I had resolved upon having no other at¬ 
tendant ; I was, however, provided with a letter 
to the governor of Jericho, commanding him to 
furnish me with an escort. As we were on the 
point of starting, Nicholai expressed a wish to see 
the Jordan ; a horse was procured—he girded 
on his sword, and with my fowling-piece in his 
hand, we sallied forth. The route is over hills, 
rocky and barren ; we arrived at a fountain ; 
my two attendants paused to refresh themselves; 
the day was so hot that I was anxious to finish 
the journey, and hurried forwards. A ruined 
building, situate on the summit of a hill, was 
now within sight, and I urged my horse towards 
it; the janissary gallopped past me, and, making 
signs for me not to precede him, he rode into 
and round the building, and then motioned me 
to advance. We next came to a hill, through the 
very apex of which has been cut a passage*, the 
rocks overhanging it on either side. I was in the 
act of passing through this ditch,when a bullet 

* Quaresmius, lib. vi. c. 2. quoting Brocardus, 200 years past, 
mentions that there is a place horrible to the eye, and full of dan¬ 
ger, called Abdomin, which signifies blood; where he, descending 
from Jerusalem to Jericho, fell among thieves. 

U 


290 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

whizzed by, close to my head; I saw no one, and 
had scarcely time to think when another was fired, 
some short distance in advance. I could yet see 
no one; the janissary was beneath the brow of 
the hill, in his descent; I looked back, but my 
servant was not yet within sight. I looked up, 
and within a few inches of my head were three 
muskets, and three men taking aim at me. Escape 
or resistance were alike impossible.—I got off my 
horse. Eight men jumped down from the rocks, 
and commenced a scramble for me; I observed 
also a party running towards Nicholai. At this 
moment the janissary gallopped in among us with 
his sword drawn ; I knew that if blood were spilt* 
I should be sacrificed, and I called upon him to fly. 
He wounded one mail that had hold of me; I re¬ 
ceived two violent blows, intended I believe for 
him *, from the effect of one I was protected by my 
turban—I was not armed—the janissary cut down 
another Arab, and all the rest scrambled up the 
rocks, the janissary turned his horse and rode off 
at full gallop, calling on me to follow him, which 

* Chateaubriand met with a serious adventure—I had been 
reading his Itinerary on the previous day. Ali (the janissary) 
se precipite dans le mele * * * enfin il tira son sabre et alloit 
abattre la tete du chef des Bedouins * * * que nous serions 
infalliblement massacres que c’etoit la raison pour laquelle il 
n’avoit pas voulu tuer le chef; car une fois le sang verse nous 
n’aurions eu d’autre parti a prendre que de retourner prompte- 
ment a Jerusalem. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 291 

I did on foot. In the mean time the Arabs pre¬ 
pared their matchlocks, and opened a fire upon us, 
but only a few of their shots came very near. We 
had advanced about a league, when two of the 
banditti made a show of cutting us off. A sud¬ 
den panic seized the janissary, he cried on the 
name of the Prophet, and gallopped away. I 
called out to him that there were but two—that 
with his sword and pistols, if we stopped behind a 
stone, we could kill them both; he rode back 
towards the Arabs, they had guns, and the poor 
fellow returned full speed. As he passed I caught 
at a rope hanging from his saddle—I had hoped to 
leap upon his horse, but found myself unable;— 
my feet were dreadfully lacerated by the honey¬ 
combed rocks—nature would support me no longer 
—I fell, but still clung to the rope ; in this man¬ 
ner I was drawn some few yards; till, bleeding 
from my ancle to my shoulder, I resigned myself 
to my fate. As soon as 1 stood up, one of my 
pursuers took aim at me, but the other casually 
advancing between us, prevented his firing, he 
then ran up, and with his sword aimed such a blow 
as would not have required a second; his compa¬ 
nion prevented its full effect, so that it merely cut 
my ear in halves and laid open one side of my 
face; they then stripped me naked. These two 
could not have known that their friends were 
wounded, or they would certainly have killed me ; 
u 2 


292 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

they had heard me vote their death, and which we 
should in all probability have effected, had the ja¬ 
nissary, a Turk, understood me. I had spoken to 
him in Arabic. 

It was now past mid-day, and burning-hot; I 
bled profusely; and two vultures, whose business 
it is to consume corpses, were hovering over me. 
I should scarcely have had strength to resist, had 
they chosen to attack me. In about twenty minutes 
Nicholai came up; his only sorrow was for my 
wound, and the loss of the sword, which was his 
own.—“ You cannot live, Sir, you cannot live ! they 
have taken away my sword; I asked them to give 
it back to me, but they would not.” He then re¬ 
lated his part of the adventure—ten men had beset 
him—his horse was not to be depended upon—the 
gun was not loaded; and there were many Arabs 
on every side, so that retreat was impossible. The 
janissary now came to our assistance, and put me 
on his horse; we passed by a rivulet of tempting wa¬ 
ter, but they would not allow me to drink, though 
I was almost choked with blood. At length we ar¬ 
rived about 3, p. m. at Jericho.—The “ walls of Je¬ 
richo” are of mud; at a corner of the town stands a 
small stone building, the residence of the governor: 
within the walls of it is the town reservoir of water, 
and horses for eight Turks. My servant was una¬ 
ble to lift me to the ground; the janissary was light¬ 
ing his pipe, and the soldiers were making prepa- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 29 8 

rations to pursue the robbers; not one person would 
assist a half-dead Christian ; after some minutes a 
few Arabs came up, and placed me by the side of 
the horse-pond, just so that I could not dip my fin¬ 
ger into the water; one of the soldiers, as he went 
forth, took the rug from his horse, and threw it to 
me as a covering. The governor armed himselfj 
and the whole garrison sallied forth in search of 
the banditti.—This pool is resorted to by every 
one in search of water, and that employment falls 
exclusively upon females—they surrounded me, 
and seemed so earnest in their sorrow, that, not¬ 
withstanding their veils, I almost felt pleasure 
at my wound; one of them in particular held a 
pitcher to my lips, till she was sent away by the 
Chous*: I called her, she returned, and was sent 
away again ; and the third time she was turned out 
of the yard: she wore a red veil t, and therefore 
there was something unpardonable in her attention 
to any man, especially to a Christian, she, howe¬ 
ver, returned with her mother, and brought me a 
lemon and some milk. I believe that Mungo Park, 
on some dangerous occasion during his travels, re¬ 
ceived considerable assistance from the compas¬ 
sionate sex. 

About sunset the secretary t of the governor pro- 

* The Ostler. t The sign of not being married. 

I This man is a Christian, and the only one in Jericho. Mo¬ 
hammedans do not study the art of writing; and the office of se¬ 
cretary is generally performed by either Jew or Christian. 


294 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


vided me with a shirt. I was then put into a mat, 
and deposited in a small dark cell, but even there 
I was not at rest, for a cat made two pulls at my 
ear during the night—it was a very Mohammedan 
cat 

Early on the following morning, the governor 
informed me, that he had scoured the roads of the 
banditti; and that as there was no doctor in Je¬ 
richo, every thing was ready to convey me to Je¬ 
rusalem. He had furnished me with some of his 
own cavalry, and had added a few pedestrians 
from the town f; I was then tied on a camel, like 
a dead sheep, the Turkish horsemen preceded me, 
and, scouting over the rocks, afforded, I doubt not, 
a very pretty scene ; but I was complaining of the 
motion of the camel, of the ropes that bound me, 
and the want of covering, while at every step my 
wound opened and shut like a quivering door t. I 

* The cat was the favourite animal of Mohammed, and the 
Turks have many anecdotes and superstitions respecting it—the 
cat is characteristic of the Turk. 

+ There are four hundred muskets in Jericho. 

{ The wound is “ not so deep as a well nor so wide as a church- 
door.” A French account of my adventure states, that the tra¬ 
veller received “ un coup si violent au visage qu’il a peine a boire, 
sans que l’eau s’echappe de sa balafre! ” To be tied on the back 
of a camel with hair ropes, and defended only by a shirt neither 
too thick nor too long, is indeed roughing itto be without 
a companion du voyage is uncomfortable ; and to be shot at alone 
is very unpleasant. Turkey is like a quickset hedge: nobody 


THE OASIS BCE HIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. L 2Q5 

begged to be transposed to a horse, but my guides 
refused to stop under pretence of danger. 

Just as we came within sight of that narrow pass 
where the incident of the previous day had com¬ 
menced, a number of Bedouins made their appear¬ 
ance ; even in any place, the most gentleman-like 
Bedouins look like robbers; we met, however, upon 
friendly terms, and at the point of meeting picked 
up a bottle of spirits belonging to Nicholai—it was 
soon drank by our new friends and the Turkish 
soldiers. 

While talking over the bottle (Heaven defend us 
from being too prolix), the Arabs told me they 
were now on their route to form my escort; for 
that the news of my assassination # had reached 
Jerusalem on the preceding evening; a man who 
had also been robbed by the same banditti in the 
morning, had been detained a prisoner till after I 
had passed ; he was then liberated, and carried his 
report to the governor of the Blessed City, who 
had immediately sent a troop of horse to my assist¬ 
ance. Now, to a person wishing to enlarge his 
book, the very circumstance of the bottle might 

should expect to go through it without being scratched. Travel¬ 
lers in general make complaint, that the inhabitants of these 
countries are not so enlightened as Englishmen are: politicians 
would be very sorry if they were. 

* I have made use of the word assassination which the Italians 
use as the Irish kilt. 


296 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

furnish volumes. The finding it at the place of 
attack, was in itself a proof that neither the sol¬ 
diers of Jerusalem nor those of Jericho had been 
over anxious to discover the people of whom they 
pretended to be in search (they are but upon a par 
with the modern Roman videttes): the drinking 
it offered a curious contrast to those holy robbers 
who had evidently left it untouched rather than 
break the law of the Prophet. Mr. Whaley, on his 
road to Jerusalem, was attacked, and the con¬ 
scientious robbers left a sack unsearched because 
there was a ham in the mouth of it. When the 
Italian banditti were informed of the death of one 
of their prey (in 1819), they gave a priest some 
halfpence to say mass for him. In some parts the 
Arabs ask for brandy; here we perceive that even 
robbers will not touch it. How difficult is it for a 
traveller to describe the manners of a people ! 

Arrived at Jerusalem, I was scarcely better off 
than at Jericho; true, one of the monks is com¬ 
pelled to profess the art of healing: but as he does 
not pretend to have studied it, one cannot place 
much confidence in him; however, he does not 
sell physic, and his prescriptions are considered so 
harmless that even Turks will take them, without 
compelling the doctor to make essay. He washed 
my wounds with wine and myrrh, and I shall ever 
acknowledge with gratitude the friendly attention 
of this good Samaritan. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 297 

Jerusalem is but a sorry place to be ill at; even 
a person in health has no reason to complain of 
comfort. I was obliged to live by suction, and at 
every meal had to thank Macdonnel for a cargo of 
sago, with which he had providentially supplied 
me. My wounds required little else than green 
leaves, but even these it was sometimes impossible 
to procure; so effective is the curse upon Jeru¬ 
salem, that no leaves suitable either in size or na¬ 
ture, grow here or in the neighbourhood. I obtain 
them from Jaffa, thirty miles distant. 

In the course of a few days, some of the ban¬ 
ditti, who had not shared in the spoil, impeached 
their fellows; at the same time stating, that all 
the stolen goods were at Gaza, twenty-three hours 
distant. The governor sends to Damascus, six 
days distant in an opposite direction, to ask what 
is to be done ? He is referred to the governor of 
Acre, and by him to Shekh Issa. Shekh Issa is 
the only person held in any esteem by the Arabs 
of the Dead Sea. He has himself a great respect 
for the English, and promises that all the things 
shall be restored, but he cannot punish the of¬ 
fenders ; he however makes excuse for them, that 
they did not know me to be an Englishman, but 
mistook me for a Turk, and the Turks had lately 
robbed them of four hundred cattle. It appears, 
by report, that two hundred was the number of 
the banditti out for the day, but only twenty of 


298 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

them absolutely engaged ; they were all Moabites, 
and consequently bad characters from time imme¬ 
morial. Nicholai fancied that he recognized some 
of our friends between Mount Sinai and Gaza. Per¬ 
haps they did expect a great prize—they caught 
an Englishman—but he had no money in his pocket. 

After a lapse of three weeks, almost all the 
articles were restored to me; the most remark¬ 
able of the exceptions were a small book*, my 
trowsers, and the frill of my shirt—the trowsers 
were partly green ; the Arabs, not perceiving the 
use of a frill, had imagined it to be a charm. I was 
now to be robbed a second time; the owner of the 
hired horse demands double its value, and swears 
that it was the price agreed upon. He then points 
to his green turban, and declares that the Judge 
would not doubt his w^ord, and that he can easily 
procure witnesses; he concludes by observing, 
that he knows of no law but that of eatmg Chris¬ 
tians. Then comes every one who had been instru¬ 
mental in the restitution, to demand becksheesh, 
viz. the banditti who impeached; the secretary 
who wrote, the soldier who carried, the letter; the 
musselim who received the goods, the messenger 
who brought them to me; those who saw the 

* The loss of this book I particularly regretted; it belonged 
to Mr. Hyde, and contained his journal to the Oasis; he had un¬ 
fortunately lent it to me at midnight preceding, and it was acci¬ 
dentally in my pocket. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 299 

things, those who did not see them, and the go¬ 
vernor-in-chief, who thinks only of becksheesh. 

The monks are frequent in their visits; and 
sometimes entertaining, but generally troublesome 
in their conversation ; the endless topics are, the 
poverty of the convent, the extortion by the Turks, 
and persecution by the Greeks. By their account 
the Greek Christian is a greater enemy to the 
Church than the Mohammedan is; he is more 
bigotted to his own opinions, and guilty of crimes 
and miracles ; but the Roman Church never at¬ 
tempts to impose upon its followers, and its chief 
glory is never to deceive, and never to be deceived ! 
—Thus they seem to think that an Englishman has 
both the hands and ears of Midas. I kept my bed 
twenty-eight days, and at length became so tired of 
that and of the tales of the convent, that I deter¬ 
mined to go. The superior presented me with a 
certificate of my having been a pious pilgrim—and 
as I was unable to put my feet to the ground, I 
was carried down stairs and placed upon my horse, 
and it was with no little pleasure that I bade adieu 
to “ The Blessed City.” 


300 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


CHAPTER XXIV. 

DEPARTURE FROM JERUSALEM — RAMLAH—CUCOM- 

MIN-NAZARETH-ACRE—TYRE-SIDON-BAROOT 

TRIPOLI-CANNOBIN — BYSHERRY-BALBECK- 

LOCUSTS-BAROOT-CYPRUS-KAKAVA-RHODES 

— SCALA NUOVA — EPHESUS-SMYRNA-ATHENS 

— HYDRA—CONSTANTINOPLE-VASILIKOS-VARNA 

-BUCHAREST-VIENNA *. 

It was nearly sunset when we left Jerusalem; and 
about four o’clock in the morning, when we ar¬ 
rived at Ramlah. In passing by the village of Abou 
Gosh, we were attacked by the videttes to pay 
safety-toll or to shew our firman of immunity. At 
Ramlah I found myself so overcome by cold and 
fatigue that I was obliged to keep my bed two days, 
notwithstanding the quantity of vermin. 

With considerable difficulty I found a man to con¬ 
duct me to Nazareth. The guides of this place are 
all Mohammedans. The Rhammadan, the Mo¬ 
hammedan Lent, had commenced; it prohibits the 
faithful from eating or drinking, or even smoking, 
between the period of sun-rise and sun-set; they 

* The long title to this Chapter is given principally to point 
out my route. 


THE OASIS BOERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 301 

are, consequently, unwilling to aggravate their pri¬ 
vations by labour. However, the road we purposed 
to take was not much frequented, and we accord- 
ingly set out for Cucommin. In about four hours 
we halted at a large pool, surrounded by very fine 
plants of the papyrus, the first that I have seen 
since quitting Syracuse (being still in doubt as to 
the three-sided rushes at Mercy). We soon after¬ 
wards came to a field of water-melons, where we 
feasted. My guide began smoking; he did not care 
one para for the Rhammadan ; but he had, unfortu¬ 
nately, been observed by some one more zealous, 
who took the trouble of running up to abuse him. 
He immediately put away his pipe, nor did he 
again transgress the law during the remainder of 
our journey. 

The sun was sinking rapidly as we approached 
Cucommin; many of the inhabitants were assem¬ 
bled on the mounds, surrounding the town, anx¬ 
iously awaiting that happy moment when they 
might be allowed to break their fast. This Careme 
must, in many cases, compel the religious to sleep 
all day—they carouse all night; it endures, how¬ 
ever, only one month, for Mohammed reduced the 
time of fasting to thirty days, that being the period 
employed by him in receiving the new code $ the 
Koran was brought to him by the angel Gabriel, 
in so many proof sheets from—the writer. 

Cucommin contains a great number of Moham- 


302 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

medans, but not one Christian; I was, therefore 
under the necessity of applying to the governor for 
a lodging ; he asked me if I had a firman,—I had 
lately received one from Constantinople, and with 
no little confidence replied, that I had one from the 
Gran Seignor himself, at the same time I displayed 
a large glossy folio, the signature alone of which 
would cover half a page of letter-paper, and glit¬ 
tered with mica; it was addressed to all the au¬ 
thorities throughout Turkey, and cautions them 
“ not to despise the sublime signature this he 
looked at, asked if I had any other, and, on my re¬ 
plying in the negative, he told me that if I had had 
one from the Pasha of Acre he would have given 
me up his house, but as it was “ I might sleep on 
the outside.” My luggage was actually deposited 
under his window, but a Turk took pity upon me 
in my illness, and provided me a room. 

We left Cucommin on the following morning, 
and, at the end of seven hours’ ride, dismount at 
Nazareth. 

At Nazareth is a Latin convent, a large build¬ 
ing very commodious for travellers who choose to 
get there to see a small chapel called of the An¬ 
nunciation, and built over the identical spot where 
the angel appeared to Mary. Here is also shewn 
the carpenter’s shop of Joseph. The men wear 
that glory of a woman, long hair, and, like Sam¬ 
son, are very proud of their strength: they pre- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 303 

tend to hold Turkish prowess in contempt. What 
interested me the most was, an orchard of fig-trees; 
the trees themselves appeared large and healthy, 
but there was not a leaf amongst them even in this 
time of summer: the locusts had been there the 
preceding day. 

Nazareth did not detain me long. On the fol¬ 
lowing morning I pursued my route to Acre, there 
I kept my bed three days, save that once I ventured 
on the top or gazebo of the convent where I lodged. 
I had scarcely shewn myself ere some men, repair¬ 
ing a neighbouring house, pelted me back again. 
The English vice-consul, II Signor Malagamba 
(Anglice, bandy-legs) was scarcely more civil. I 
was ill, and a stranger, living under the same roof 
with him, he might have paid me a visit: as he 
did not, I took the liberty of requesting the plea- 
- sure of his company. He abuses the English, be¬ 
cause he is not allowed a salary; yet he has no¬ 
thing to attend to, for English ships never come 
into the harbour—nor would he be at the expense 
of hoisting the British flag upon his consulate if 
he were worth millions; but he uses it in his com¬ 
mercial transactions, and has just forwarded an 
application to our new ambassador at Constantino¬ 
ple for a continuance of that privilege*. Of course, 
every body hates all deputies and secretaries: and 
Sonnini, chap. vii. speaking of the consuls in the 
Levant, observes that many a one fears “l*ap- 

* He is since deposed. 


304 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

proche de l’observateur assez clair-voyant pour 
s’apercevoir de son ineptie et quelquefois de quel- 
que chose de pisand again—“ Quelques consuls 
du nombre de ceux qui comme le disoit Voltaire 
se croyoient des consuls Romains, ,, &c. 

My first day’s journey from Acre was to Sur, 
where I was hospitably received by the Greek 
Papa, or, as he calls himself, Bishop. His palace 
contains three or four rooms, and is always open 
to travellers—he is oppressively civil. Sur is the 
ancient Tyre, “ Queen of ships ;” the harbour is 
very shallow, and very rocky—there were a few 
small boats in it. I spoke to a solitary fisherman, 
who was whiling away his time at the water’s edge 
—it did not answer to catch fish every day. 

My next journey was to Saida, alias Sidon, 
where I intended to have passed the night; but, 
though it is a considerable place, I was unable to 
procure a lodging. The only Frank belonging to 
the town was the French Consul, and he was ab¬ 
sent from home. Lady Hester Stanhope resides 
in the neighbourhood, but she is notoriously averse 
to visits from the English ; in this dilemma, .rather 
than sleep sub dio, I resolved to pursue my route. 
My own horses had fallen ill—my guide furnished 
me with asses. 

We left Saida by moonlight; our ride, as long 
as it continued by the edge of the sea, was de¬ 
lightful. We halted a few hours at a ruined khan, 
and, about twelve o’clock on the following day. 


THE OASIS BGERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 305 

arrived at Baroot; my Jerusalem poney proving 
itself, if not equal to a horse, at least superior to a 
Sicilian mule. 

Baroot is a small dirty town, the people of 
which are reputedly insolent to Franks; I cannot 
say so from experience; for, whenever I did ma¬ 
nage to crawl out, they always made way for me. 
I was extremely ill—perhaps they thought that I 
had the plague. 

The road from Baroot to Tripoli, leads between 
the sea and Mount Lebanon, and is as pleasing as 
such noble objects can make it. My guide was a 
regular dram-drinker; and, whenever an opportu¬ 
nity presented itself, he expended half a farthing 
for a whiff at a pipe, and sometimes added another 
para for a cup of coffee. I have already remarked 
that the word eisherab signifies equally smoking 
and drinking; the fumes in either case have nearly 
the same effect. The first word that a Turk ac¬ 
quires in a foreign country is tobacco—the pistol 
ramrods often contain tongs wherewith to put the 
fire on the pipe. 

Tripoli is a place of trade; there is a manufac¬ 
tory of silk shawls, which are principally worn by 
the Albanian soldiers, on gala days; the ends are 
chequered like the plaid—an additional feature in 
the similarity between the Albanian and Highland 
costume*.—Saw the Arabian horses collected for 

* See page 67* 


X 


306 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

the King of France—the price of the dearest was 
under forty pounds—of the best, was under thirty. 
Kinneir states, that 1200 L was refused for a mare 
at Aleppo. The Turks are very superstitious 
regarding their horses. One of the Mameluke 
Beys on the day of the massacre at Cairo, predicted 
some calamity, because his horse, neighed, and re¬ 
fused to advance. The French Consul of this 
place amuses himself and friends by occasionally 
printing and publishing a newspaper*. The prin¬ 
cipal rooms in Tripoli are kept tolerably cool, by 
a jet d’eau playing incessantly in their centre.— 
We found many tortoises in this neighbourhood. 

Pursued my journey, ascended Mount Lebanon, 
rested a few hours at the romantic convent of St. 
Antonio, thence onward towards Cannobin, des¬ 
cended into a valley, or, as it might more properly 
be called, a cleft of the Mount. In this retreat re¬ 
sides a Greek patriarch, a venerable and hospit¬ 
able man ; breakfasted with him, but declined all 
further invitations on hearing that my friend Grey 
was established within a few hours’ distance at By¬ 
sherry : found him in his tent pitched under a vine 
bower. Bysherry is a populous village, surrounded 
by mulberry-trees, and trading in silk. In the vi¬ 
cinity is a Carmelite convent, partly built and partly 
excavated in the native rock : it is inhabited by one 
monk, a Genoese, who having contrived to exist 

* See Appendix. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 307 

seven years as a missionary amid the unhealthiness 
of Bussora, and having no call to his own country, 
was still labouring in his vocation : his neighbours 
are Christians, the air is fine, the scenery beauti¬ 
ful, and the country fertile ; he is as happy as it is 
possible for a single man to be : he is loved for his 
inoffensiveness, esteemed for his medical talents, 
and courted for his giving absolution. The vil¬ 
lagers call upon him to bless their trees, and what¬ 
ever fruit is produced by his own, they steal. Es¬ 
tablished under the windows of the convent, Mr. 
Grey was anxiously awaiting till the period should 
arrive when he might travel without danger of 
fever: to fly also from that periodic plague of the 
Syrian coast, an Italian doctor had removed his 
quarters from Tripoli to Bysherry; he and the 
shekh of the village, a man of some consequence, 
comprised our acquaintance. The doctor, myself, 
and servant hired mules and set out on an excur¬ 
sion to Balbec. In about an hour and a half we 
stopped at the cedars of Lebanon; a clump of 
trees considerable only from the name: seven of 
them are strongly stamped with antiquity, the 
largest is in girth 18J feet, the others appear like 
young fir trees. This grove was, till of late years, 
the annual resort of the inhabitants of Mount Le¬ 
banon, for religious purposes, and, like the church 
of the Holy Sepulchre or the temple of Venus, the 
x 2 


308 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


scene of the greatest licentiousness*. Venus is the 
ancient deity of this region; but where has she 
not been ? The former inhabitants of this country 
held their women in common, and probably many 
of their customs are still retained in the mysterious 
tenets of their successors, the Druses. Leaving 
the cedars, we passed over the mountain, our track 
being for a short distance through snow (July), we 
arrived about sunset at a deserted building called 
the Red Convent. There we passed the night, 
and would have proceeded early the next morn¬ 
ing, but our guide had not said his prayers, and 
he refused to move till he had; he was by religion 
a Maronite. On quitting the convent, we entered 
immediately on a flat plain, probably the ancient 
“garden of Lebanon;” it is about nine miles in 
width; and, proceeding directly across it, we ar¬ 
rive at Balbec. 

Balbec, “ the City of the Sun,” is fully described 
by Wood. The most striking object among these 
very magnificent ruins is the fragment of an edifice 
of which only six pillars, supporting part of the 
architrave, now remain. It is not so remarkable 
for size as for elegance ; but is such as any lover of 
the picturesque, who might wish to build ruins, 
should be glad to imitate. In a neighbouring edi- 

* For the same reason the temple of Venus, situate on the 
river Adonis in this vicinity, was destroyed by Constantine. 


THE OASIS BCEIlIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 309 


fice is a layer of stones, fifteen or sixteen in num¬ 
ber, each of which is more than ten feet in breadth, 
thirteen feet in height, and in length from thirty- 
one to thirty-eight feet: near at hand are three 
other stones, and each of these nearly equal to two 
of the others just mentioned, being from sixty-two 
to sixty-four feet in length ; they are placed as 
nicely together as if they had been only bricks. 
In the quarry is a stone much larger*; it is unfi¬ 
nished, and perhaps on that account more imposing: 
we fancy that it is a work in hand. Even the 
Egyptians did not use such extraordinary masses 
in their buildings : the pillar of Fompey and the 
obelises of Lugsor are objects certainly more sur¬ 
prising in their bulk, their workmanship, and their 
erection ; but they were objects expressly for show. 
Solomon’s house of Lebanon was remarkable for 
the size of the stones used in its construction. 

The modern town of Balbec in point of popu¬ 
lation ranks highly, though we in traversing it did 
not see a human being. Our guide led us to a 
deserted convent; and we had been some time 

* It contains 14,128 cubic feet, and should weigh, were it 
Portland stone, about 2,270,000 pounds avoirdupoise, or about 
1135 tons.—Wood. 

It is not perfectly rectangular, which may account for variances 
in the measurements given: 

Wood says,. 70 feet long ..14 0 broad.14 5 inches deep 

Poeock,.68 - -17 8. 13 10 - 

I made it only, 65 - -13 6 14 6 









310 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

busied in cleaning it, when a man made his ap¬ 
pearance. He told us, that the governorship of 
the town was contended for by two people*, both 
usurpers; that all the males had gone out to bat¬ 
tle ; and that whichever party should prove vic¬ 
torious, we should undoubtedly be robbed; he also 
urged our departure on another account, viz. the 
impossibility of procuring food. My companion 
who had been a lawyer in Italy, which place he 
had left for some known cause, and who now con¬ 
tinued the art of bleeding in this country as a me¬ 
dico, immediately offered his services to all inva¬ 
lids, and desired the stranger to proclaim his arri¬ 
val. We were soon beset by women and children; 
they were desired to bring us bread, in return for 
which they received advice. The doctor then pre¬ 
scribed certain quantities of eggs, milk, and honey: 
these luxuries were also procured ; but I was sorry 
afterwards to believe that our patients had been 
deluded into an idea that these things were to 
have been mixed for themselves. We passed the 
remainder of the day among the ruins, and at even¬ 
ing returned to the convent. The convent is a 
small low building divided into two courts; we 
barricadoed the regular entrance : my servant and 
guide slept in one room, and my companion and 
myself in another. I had been so luxurious in 
consequence of my recent illness as to bring my 
* See Appendix. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 311 

bedding : the doctor contented himself with the 
custom of the country, and reposed upon a rug. 
In the night I was awakened by my neighbour 
squeaking out in the true Italian tone, “ Chi e!” a 
lamp was burning in our room; I saw a man at my 
feet, I started up, the man fled, I pursued, but he 
escaped over the roof: my friend and servant did 
not join me till too late. I suspect the thief to be 
the same man that had predicted our being robbed: 
lie must have known that I was unarmed as well as 
undressed, and ought to have killed me, but “ con¬ 
science makes cowards of us all”. 

The Arabs are a set of thieves, as cunning* but 
as fearful as foxes ; a race of gascons, whose valour 
consists in words; they start suddenly, draw their 
dirks, but, the froth of their anger soon evapo¬ 
rates, and they are as suddenly composed. I saw 
many instances of cowardice amongst them, and 
but few of bravery: their conversation rests upon 
gunpowder, fire-arms, sheep, corn, water, feuds, 
murder, and tobacco. The ignorance of the Arab 
is the greatest impediment to the researches of the 

* It is to be remembered that these people are not Blacks— 
Blacks are generally stupid—a black man has less brains when 
dissected than a white one, a woman less than a man—a goose 
less than any other animal—I do not know what brains a light 
haired person has—the power of intellect is often at least in pro¬ 
portion to the color of the hair—and it may be accounted for—but 
then a black man—he has not hair but wool. 


312 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

traveller; his blindness is thickened by his avarice, 
and judging by himself and his oppressor, he 
imagines that every one else seeks only for gold; 
that the botanist culls no herbs but such as impart 
the golden dye; and that the mineralogist searches 
for none other than the philosopher’s stone. The 
Bedouins are generally considered robbers, but I 
am not willing to think that they prove so as long 
as they can obtain an honest livelihood by their 
cattle. They are faithful where they pledge their 
faith, and charitable to those in want, but insa¬ 
tiable where they can obtain. They are reputed to 
be good soldiers, that is, their assistance is de¬ 
sirable—as Cossacks. They harass and plunder, 
they dwell where they cannot be surprised, and re¬ 
treat where they cannot be followed. They pay no 
taxes, acknowledge no king, and are in full pos¬ 
session of that Utopian blessing, liberty—a liberty 
in common with the wild beasts of the desert. 
They have no protector, they have no home. They 
are compelled frequently to traverse a pathless 
waste: with difficulty they find a scanty pasturage 
for their cattle and water for themselves ; and they 
pass their lives in one unvariable, unenviable de¬ 
sert. The Bedouin*, however, if he pleased, could 
take the place of the Fellah,* or the Fellah might 

* A remarkable similarity of character between the Bedouins 
of Arabia and the Indians of the Arctic Regions. See account 
by Gapt. Franklin. The principal, perhaps only difference is with 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 3lS 

adopt the life of Bedouin ; yet each prefers his 
own. The one would rather serve even a Greek, 
and have his home ; the other would not “ serve 
in heaven;” the former has more comfort, the 
latter less annoyance. Happiness is ideal, and 
pleasure is by comparison ; every race of man, and 
every rank of life, have probably aji equal share. 

We learnt soon after our return to Bysherry, that 
we had been followed several miles by a hostile 
party from Balbec. I had caught a severe cold, 
and was shortly seized with a violent fever, which 
confined me to my bed three weeks—my room was 
so damp as to be tenanted by scorpions, the first 
notice of which was finding one in bed with me; 
my only medicine was elder-flower water, this and 
the attentions of my friend and the monk restored 
me. Illness is very prevalent throughout Syria at 
this period of the year, owing probably to the heat, 
and the too free use of fruit; there is no gendar¬ 
merie to destroy the superabundance as in Paris 
with regard to melons—here the people live—or 
die—upon apricots. 

We were one day surprised by a cloud of locusts; 
we saw them coming from a long distance every¬ 
where attempting to settle, and everywhere driven 
away by the anxious, noisy peasants; they re¬ 
respect to chastity—it is not to the credit of civilization that the 
abuse of it which exists among the latter is owing to their inter¬ 
course with Francs. 


314 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


minded us of a very thick snow-fall when the 
flakes are particularly large. 

Grey, the monk, and myself, dined with the 
shekh; two or three Arabs were invited to meet us. 
We took our seats on the floor, a stool was placed in 
the centre, and on this was served the dinner: fif¬ 
teen courses of single dishes, each increasing in 
savour, and in each a preponderancy of rice—plain 
rice, rice soup, rice and minced meat roasted in 
vine leaves, roast fowls stuffed with rice and al¬ 
monds, rice and minced meat stewed in the body 
of a cucumber, &c. We commenced with a glass 
of brandy: and, contrary to the Mohammedan ob¬ 
servance of not drinking during meals, this innova¬ 
tion was often repeated. On one occasion a health 
was proposed, when straight a strong-lunged fel¬ 
low, without either notice or entreaty, bellowed 
out a song*, much to the satisfaction of the host, 
and the discomfiture of his English guests. We 
had also the privilege of drinking water; it was 
handed round in a bardak, a kind of earthen tea¬ 
pot, and it was requisite to pour the water into your 
mouth without touching the spout: this custom pre¬ 
vails in part of Spain. When dinner was finished 

* The Shekh favored me with a written copy of the song—in 
it was nothing remarkable except perhaps the following passages: 

“ Memory is your form, and the heart is the centre, and love is 
the circle, and the rays of it are the ideas.”—“ My eye is on the 
sky of your form, like the moon on the horizon.” 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 315 

the shekh’s wife threw rose-water upon our beards. 
She was a pretty young woman, and had been re¬ 
markably officious in serving up the dinner; she 
then retreated into a corner of the room, and stood 
among the slaves and servants. On being informed 
who she was, I wished her ladyship to sit down 
with us, but it was not allowed. On the follow¬ 
ing day, when I would have inquired after her, I 
was desired to ask the shekh how his beit (house) 
did. One of our servants was so imprudent as to ask 
the shekh after his wife unequivocally; to which 
he replied very angrily, “ did you dream of her last 
night ?” His own servant was an ultra in politesse; 
for one day, when he was bearer of a present, and 
we inquired concerning his master, he replied, 
<c that depends—if you are quite well, he is per¬ 
fectly so.” 

Some weeks passed away; and at length I was 
nearly able and fully willing to go. Mr. Grey was 
waiting for his late companion, Alkooshy, to com¬ 
plete their labours concerning the written * moun¬ 
tains ; but to me the fertility of the country, the 
salubrity of the air, and the beauty of the scenery 
please no more—I was longing for home. I heard 
of a vessel at Baroot about to sail for Smyrna ; and 
though it was a Turkish one, I determined to go 
by it. 

I sent my servant via Tripoli; and trusting to 

* The characters the same as those I copied at Mount Sinai. 


316 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

my slight knowledge of Arabic I took the moun¬ 
tain road, accompanied only by a peasant. This 
route is very beautiful to look at, and very dis¬ 
agreeable to travelj in many places are steps cut 
in the rock, dangerous to the mule and wearisome 
to the rider—it is shorter than that by Tripoli, 
but not to be preferred. We left Bysherry about 
six o’clock in the morning, halted for an hour 
during the day, and about ten o’clock at night re¬ 
posed by favor in the divan or open shed adjoining 
a small cottage. Early on the following day we 
descended into the bay of Junia, and reached Ba- 
root about three, p. m. During the journey, my 
guide happened to leave me for a few minutes alone: 
I was quickly surrounded by the natives, and every 
one desired me to feel his pulse. In vain I pro¬ 
tested that I did not understand such things : they 
replied with one accord that I was a Frank, and 
therefore could not but be a doctor. That part of 
Mount Lebanon, watered by the Dog river (Nahr 
el Kelb), is celebrated for a muscatel wine, called 
by Franks vino d’oro. I halted at a smokey, where 
a number of travellers had collected under a syca¬ 
more-tree. The Arabic for wine is nebeed. I had 
no sooner taken my seat than I called for Nebbie 
—now nebbie (Prophet) happens to be the word 
applied exclusively to Mohammed. The coffee- 
maker stared, and brought me coffee—that I drank, 
and again called for Nebbie; he offered me a pipe 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 317 

—I smoked, and still called for “ the Prophet! the 
Prophet!”—he then brought figs, cucumbers, and 
grapes—the latter I pressed—he discovered my 
wishes, but being a Turk himself, and consequently 
forbidden to touch wine, he had none in his pos¬ 
session ; he, however, obligingly sent for some— 
it proved excellent—I was not yet set right as to 
the word, and therefore exclaimed with great satis¬ 
faction “ the Prophet is very good.” There were 
many Turks present, but I was fortunately very 
ill, and very evidently so, or I should probably have 
been taught, even through a mistake of only one 
letter, that “a little learning is a dangerous thing.” 

Agreed with the captain of the vessel for a pas¬ 
sage to Smyrna—the captain was a Turk, the sailors 
Greeks, and my fellow passengers Albanians— 
some of them soldiers, returning from the siege of 
Aleppo, and others, who had been driven from 
their country by Ali Pasha (for he drove away all 
robbers), now anxious to assist at his approaching 
downfal, and to exercise their own natural voca¬ 
tions. Every man was provided with a rug—these 
were spread upon the deck, and so nicely had the 
complement been calculated, that it was scarcely 
possible to move. I had, certainly, a cabin to my¬ 
self, but suck a one !—not four feet high, running 
between the main-deck and the tiller; in this I was 
cooped up thirty days—the sun powerfully hot— 
and my cabin to myself was about as satisfactory 


318 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

as Perillus’s bull. I cannot decide whether these 
Albanians were more noisy when they were angry 
or when they were pleased; they sang or grum¬ 
bled all day; the former as long as they w T ere at 
meals, and the latter as long as they were not : the 
songs generally related the heroic actions of rebel 
chiefs, and could not but be interesting .to an ad¬ 
mirer of Ossian, or the author of the Corsair. The 
Albanians are said to be robbers, and the national 
anecdote concerning them is this:—if one of them 
were to see a man wearing gilt buttons, he would 
shoot him, expecting to find them gold; on disco¬ 
vering his mistake he would lament the loss of his 
powder. In three days from Baroot we arrived at 
Larnica ; among the eatables in the market were 
snails; they are very palatable, and should be called 
land perriwinkles. The wine of the country is 
sold at from one shilling per dozen to five shillings 
per bottle. Vines are here, of some kinds, as com¬ 
mon as weeds, of other, as rare as hot-house plants; 
wines equally remarkable for high and low prices 
are produced at the extreme Southern point—the 
Cape—but the best wine in the world, if we may 
judge by the price, is remarkable also for the place 
of its manufactory, Tokai. Cyprus is the birth¬ 
place of Venus, and yet I was rather surprised than 
disappointed in the beauties of Larnica. We took 
on board a poor Turk, almost naked, to whom, 
having resumed the Frank dress, I gave a suit of 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 319 

clothes; he returned thanks to the prophet, but 
called me a dog. 

We were eighteen days between Cyprus and 
Rhodes, being about six times as long as we had 
anticipated. I was soon reduced to an allowance 
of biscuit and water ; on this I had subsisted some 
time, when I discovered that our Greek sailors had 
a cask of olives in constant use upon deck, as the 
Neapolitans have anchovies—the addition of a few 
olives made my meal luxurious. I believe that the 
labourer enjoys his dinner more than the alderman, 
and any variation to that of the former must be 
agreeable. The want of provisions was not our 
only evil, we remained for several days in the same 
spot, becalmed, but not motionless, being perpe¬ 
tually annoyed by a ground swell—the sun was 
burning, so that I was half-baked, as well as quite 
sick. Among our passengers Were some strict Mus¬ 
sulmans, one or two of whom had even said their 
prayers upon first coming in contact with me, a 
circumstance which you will remember happened 
to us in Sicily, a custom which I believe is in fre¬ 
quent use among the Catholics, to prevent conver¬ 
sion, and among the Maltese, to avert the evil eye. 
These holy men determined to invoke Nebbie for 
a wind; those who were religiously disposed, as¬ 
sembled in circle, and performed their prayers. 
There had not been a breath of air for twelve days, 
but as Nebbie would have it, a favourable breeze 


320 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

sprang up; the Captain would have steered direct 
for Rhodes, but the soldiers insisted on his running 
towards the coast of Asia Minor, for water. The 
Captain was afraid that they would plunder his ves¬ 
sel in such a place, and therefore proposed steering 
for Kakava ; but the dispute was settled by one of 
the mutineers presenting a pistol, and putting the 
helm up. I had been referred to by both parties, 
and although I concurred privately in the Cap¬ 
tain’s opinion, I sided openly with the soldiers: 
We accordingly steered directly for the coast. 
We soon espied a grove of trees, and I predicted 
the finding of water—a prediction certain to be 
fulfilled, even if the water were to be procured 
from steam: but at the same time I warned them of 
rocks, and the boat was therefore sent ashore—it re¬ 
turned successful. After that the Albanians treated 
me with great respect, either from that circum¬ 
stance, or because that when one of them had or¬ 
dered me to get out of his way, I had determinedly 
refused. We next sailed to Kakava, where we re¬ 
plenished our water-casks. At Kakava are some 
Grecian tombs, stone rectangular buildings, the 
upper part of which resembles a boat capsized *. 

Arrived at Rhodes—there we learnt that an Aus¬ 
trian vessel which had tarried at Larnica two days 
after we had left it, had left Rhodes five days be- 

* The description is anticipated by Cockerell.—See Walpole’s 
collection. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 321 

fore our arrival. She had probably kept under the 
Asiatic coast, and made use of the night winds, of 
which we felt nothing but the ground swell. At 
Rhodes are to be seen the works of the Holy 
Knights, they made a good exchange in getting 
Malta; we were here on Friday—the Turkish sab¬ 
bath :—the public crier ordered that all shops should 
be shut—an example to Paris. 

Left Rhodes.—A small black cloud indicated a 
storm—we ran helter-skelter, with a number of 
other vessels, into the harbour of Scala-nuova, and 
cast our anchor alongside of a large hog-boat, full 
of soldiers, crowded together like a cargo of me¬ 
lons ; the sea became violently agitated—we got 
out a spar to keep us apart, but it stove in the gun¬ 
nel, and our neighbours, being in the weaker ves¬ 
sel, screamed frightfully. The cloud, which had 
been gradually swelling, burst; it poured forth rain 
in torrents, and was emptied in less than five mi¬ 
nutes; the clouds vanished, but the sea retained a 
violent irritation.—Remained at anchor all night, 
and on the following morning I resolved to pro¬ 
ceed by land. I cannot take leave of my Captain 
without acknowledging a favour:—he lent me a 
hundred dollars, on promise of being paid at Smyr¬ 
na, and with no other security than that of my 
being an Englishman. 

From Scala-nuova I rode to Smyrna, a long day’s 
journey of seventeen hours.—Stopped at the tem- 


Y 


322 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

pie of Ephesus, the unworthy remains of which do 
not indicate that it was ever one of the seven won¬ 
ders,— Refreshed ourselves at a spring, amid a 
multitude of camels laden with figs, where I was 
witness to a system of roguery heretofore unknown 
to the merchants: the figs were packed in small 
sacks—the carriers took two or three handfuls from 
each, on their own account , and poured in water; 
the water causes the fruit to swell, and thus sup¬ 
plies both bulk and weight. 

At Smyrna I was hospitably entertained ten days 
by Mr. Werry, the English Consul. The Turkish 
Captain arrived and was satisfied. I hired a Greek 
vessel to convey me to Athens; my crew consisted 
of four captains, viz. the first and second captains, 
the captain of the flag, and the captain of the deck; 
besides these, was a little jacknasty, who was slave 
to the whole party. During the first night of our 
voyage we ran aground several times, but on the 
third day landed happily in the Piraeus. We had 
not met with any incident, save that once a strange 
sail, suspected to be a pirate, frightened the four 
captains. 

Athens.—I visited Pentelicon, shot over Hy- 
mettus, and almost lived in the Parthenon—en¬ 
joyed the drawings of Lusieri—the museum of M. 
Fauvel, and the hospitality of Logotheti — read 
Pausanias, and amused myself by sketching, and 
thus passed some of the most grateful days of my life. 


THE OASIS B(ERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 323 

A bath at Athens.—I was conducted to a room 
fitted up like an English coffee-room, with stalls, 
but furnished with bedding, one place was ap¬ 
propriated to the sale of coifee and tobacco. I 
was desired to undress; a towel was then, by way 
of turban, twisted round my temples, and I was 
conducted to an adjoining room, in which I was 
desired to stop. I found this room warm, but no 
water. I consequently waited in expectation of a 
tub or vessel of some kind. This idea was height¬ 
ened when I was desired to walk into the next room 
—and here also there was no water; but I thought 
myself nearer to it, as the heat was much greater. 
My guide again desired me to stop—my ignorance 
of the language prevented my asking questions; 
and he left me to my meditations. The heat soon 
overpowered me, and I almost determined to faint 
—there was neither chair nor couch—nothing but 
bare walls. I now cried out for assistance, and there 
came a man, or let me call him a satyr, bringing 
with him a board; upon this he desired me to stretch 
myself; lie straightforth began to rub me with 
his hand—a person who has not undergone the 
operation of being shampooed, will scarcely believe 
how often, by this process, he may be peeled. 
When this had continued some time he laid hold 
of my hand, and with a sudden twist he snapped 
all my fingers, and in the same manner of my feet, 
and then gave me to understand, to my sui prise, 
y 2 


32 4 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


that I had had my bath. I was then re-conducted 
to the less warm room, and thence to my stall. 

From Athens I went to the small island of Hy¬ 
dra, the naval arsenal of the Greeks, an imperiiim 
in imperio, altogether free from Turks. A lazza- 
retto is established here, and I was put in quaran¬ 
tine for three days. 

I agreed for a passage to Constantinople, on 
board a very fine ship, bound to Odessa, for corn ; 
while getting under weigh, a Greek priest came on 
board to say mass, which done, he threw incense 
over the rudder and the head of the vessel, and 
wished us a favourable voyage; his wishes were 
heard, and our voyage almost made amends for 
that between Cyprus and Rhodes. The Darda¬ 
nelles and sea of Marmora presented a beautiful 
sight; we found ourselves in the midst of a large 
fleet of vessels, all bound to Constantinople, but 
which had been accumulating, and been detained 
some weeks near Mytelene and the Troad, unable 
to ascend the straits against the northerly wind. 
The width of the Dardanelles is about a mile, 
though Leander or Lord Byron, in swimming, 
might have found it four. I am told, that when a 
southerly wind has prevailed any length of time, 
the surface of the stream becomes nearly dead wa¬ 
ter, and not difficult to be passed, even in a direct 
line. 

Constantinople, as well by the beauties of its si- 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 3%5 

tuation, as by the other novelties it presents, would 
require more time and space than I can spare; I 
shall therefore remark only upon one or two points 
that excited greater interest:—I went on the sab¬ 
bath to see the Gran Signor go to mosque ; he was 
on horseback that he might be seen ; he was at the 
same time in state, that his subjects might be gra¬ 
tified in seeing: those who had any grievances to 
complain of, or any petitions to present, were ar¬ 
ranged by the way-side, and every paper that was 
offered, he received, either by his own, or by the 
hand of some dignitary in close attendance. His 
Majesty is followed by two or three officers, each 
carrying in their hand a royal turban, and in the 
presence of these turbans every head must bow. 
It happened that when he had passed, a confusion 
arose among the crowd ; one of the officers held up 
a turban, every one bowed his head, and the dis¬ 
turbance ceased. 

There are no presentations to the Gran Signor 
—there are no levee days—and it is but seldom 
that an audience is granted: it must be for some 
specific purpose, such as the introduction of a 
newly appointed ambassador. I was present on 
one of these rare occasions, when Mr. B. Frere 
who was now in the place of Sir Robert Liston, 
had to deliver his credentials, and the day on which 
the janissaries were to receive their pay was express¬ 
ly chosen for that ceremony. The English resi- 


326 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

dents and visitors were invited, and every Franc, 
of whatever nation, had permission to attend. We 
assembled at the British palace before five in the 
morning; the Turkish guards, carrying torches, 
were running about in all directions : the lustre of 
their arms, the variety of dress, and the gaudiness 
of colours, produced a fine stage effect, and at the 
same time heightened our expectations. We were 
not kept long waiting, ere an officer arrived from 
the Porte, deputed to act as master of the cere¬ 
monies ; and at day-break we set out. The pro¬ 
cession commenced with about a hundred janissa¬ 
ries on foot, then the officer above-mentioned, on 
horseback, attended by his own servants, on foot, 
then two by two came the servants of the ambas¬ 
sador, and then Mr. Frere himself, in a sedan chair; 
all the rest of the party followed on foot, and ought 
to have done so in order, but the secretary, the con¬ 
sul, the dragomen, the merchants, the visitors, and 
the tag-rag, were all huddled together, and in this 
manner we arrived at the water’s edge*; boats had 
been already provided for us, but such was the 
eagerness and difficulty to get a place, that some 
of the party were knee-deep in mud ; on the op¬ 
posite shore we found horses, and for these we had 
another scramble; at length most of us were mount¬ 
ed, and we proceeded onward, without much or- 

* Pera, where the Franks reside, is divided by water from the 
chief part of Constantinople. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 327 


der, till we were desired to wait for the Grand Vi¬ 
zier ; he came, and we fell into the rear; the street 
was lined with a double row of ragged troops, 
passing through which, we arrive at a dirty, dull 
building, that proves to be the entrance-gate of 
the serrail—it is quite as shabby as St. James’s—the 
porch was occupied by a mob of Franks and Turks, 
I got through without knowing how, and not with¬ 
out the slightest idea of what might have befallen 
our official personages:—almost all the visitors 
were in the same predicament. We now found 
ourselves in a court-yard, irregular in its shape 
and in its buildings ; on one side the kitchens, on 
the other the council-chamber, and at the extre¬ 
mity the serrail itself; in the centre is an avenue 
of trees: the shabbiness of the whole is the only 
thing that excites remark. Arranged down the 
avenue was a line of plates, containing altei nately 
pillau, and a yellow mixture, probably saffron soup; 
two or three subordinate officers were keeping 
guard : at one side was collected a mob of soldiers, 
who stood eyeing these luxuries with great anxiety, 
and each with his best leg forward; one or two of 
these hungry fellows rushed forth and made a sei¬ 
zure, on which the sentinels pomelled them uncom¬ 
monly with their ink-stands*; at length the word 

* These ink-stands are metal, and in form and size like a ham¬ 
mer ; they are worn in the bosom, and often suspended round the 
neck by a chain. 


328 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

of command was given, and the whole of this 
FalstafPs regiment charged, with all the speed and 
avidity of the Duke of Queensberry’s pig ; the 
first rank was generally pushed beyond the dishes 
—the second snatched them up—-and they in their 
turn being also propelled, both parties were splash¬ 
ed over with the yellow sauce. This treat being 
finished, we were directed to the divan or council- 
chamber, where we found already assembled the 
Grand Vizier, the Capitan Bassa, three other dig¬ 
nitaries of the Porte, and our minister and suite. 
The five Turks were seated on a sofa that stretched 
partly round the room, and a chair was placed in 
a corner for our minister—every body else was 
obliged to stand.—The room is small but elegant, 
fronted with a very handsome gilded grating, the 
ceiling is a groined arch, at each corner of which 
is an indifferent painting of inanimate nature*; over 
the seat occupied by the Vizier is a neat bay win¬ 
dow-grating, and at this it is said the Gran Signor 
comes to spy and listen, because his pride and sub¬ 
limity will not allow him to look at a Christian, 
even pending the interview . Previous to entering 
we could not but observe a pile of small leather 
bags, said to contain the pay of the janissaries t, 
these were now brought in with considerable show, 
bustle, and delay, and arranged at the feet of the 


See page 59. 


t I was told 60,000/. sterling. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 329 

Vizier ; one of them was opened, and the contents 
poured forth upon a salver, to shew that there was 
no deception — they were really half farthings— 
they were then examined and highly approved of; 
the bags were then counted over again, and laid at 
the door, with the same pretended consequence, 
and then again handed on through a file of soldiers, 
and arranged upon the flag stones, a certain num¬ 
ber at a time; on each occasion a company of ja¬ 
nissaries was let loose at them from about two 
hundred yards distance ; whoever was so fortunate 
as to obtain a bag in the scramble, would receive, 
on restoring it to government, one sixpence in ad¬ 
dition to his pay. The scramble did afford the 
spectators some amusement till it grew wearisome, 
for it lasted about three hours 1 The next part of 
the ceremony was dinner :—a stool and tray were 
placed before the Vizier, another before the Ca- 
pitan Bassa, a third before the two Turks that sat 
together, and another before the fifth remaining 
one, who sat by himself; our minister took his 
place with the Vizier,—our consul and Mr. Bra- 
dish, a gentleman from America, at the second ta¬ 
ble_no stranger was admitted at the third—and 

at the fourth were the secretary of the embassy, 
Lord Charles Murray, and myself—there was no 
provision for the rest of the party; the first dish 
brought in was a present from the Gran Signor to 
the Vizier, and was by him received with much ce- 


330 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 

remony ; stools were allowed us to sit upon, and a 
spoon, a napkin, and bread were placed for each; 
the dishes were brought in singly, and in lottery 
order—minced meat, pie, fowl, fish, sweets, fish, 
fowl, &c. in all twenty-eight in number, none of 
them remarkably good, except an aromatic Italian 
cream, and none particularly bad, except the pas¬ 
try, and a mixture of saffron. The moment a dish 
was put down our host dipped his fingers into it, 
and then desired us to do the same; there was only 
one dish of which he took fairly a mouthful; I 
followed his example, and found it saffron, to my 
infinite disgust; nothing was offered us to drink, 
though the last spoonful allowed us was of sherbet. 
Among the articles before us was a roast fowl, it 
was uncarved, and we had neither knives nor forks; 
Lord Charles happened to touch it, when one of 
the cooks in attendance immediately took it up, 
pulled it to atoms with his fingers, and threw it 
down before us. In less than ten minutes after 
our beginning to sit down, we had partaken of 
twenty-eight dishes, and the stools were, without 
any warning, snatched away from under us. Half 
an hour was now allowed us to wash our hands, 
after which we were all called out into the yard, 
where we were kept some time standing; but for 
the minister there was a dirty stone, upon which 
he might have sat, if he had so pleased. At length 
there came two people with bags, containing pe- 


THE OASIS BCE HIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 33 1 

lisses, these were poured forth, and the clothesmen 
called out the names of such as were to receive 
them ; they were of three qualities, the first edged 
with sable, the second with ermine, and the third 
made of a mean coarse stuff; these are destined 
for the minister and his immediate suite and dra¬ 
gomen, though lent for the occasion to visitors; 
nobody can be admitted into the audience-chamber 
without one, and even the last class is altogether 
rejected *. 

As soon as we were clothed there came forth a 
party of attendants, one or two of whom seized each 
of us by the shoulder; we were thus led through 
a file of domestics magnificently habited, and then 
pressed into a small dark room, which proved to 
be the chamber of audience. Seeing was nearly 
impossible, notwithstanding the effulgence of the 
sublime presence—the principal lightcame through 
the door-way. The room was so small that we 

* There is a vulgar rumour, that when a Christian wishes for 
an audience a message is delivered to the Gran Signor, setting 
forth that “ a dog, naked and hungry, begs to be admittedto 
which is given this reply: “ Clothe him, and feed him, and bring 
him in.” The pelisse is a badge of honor in Turkey the same 
as the garter or court robes are in England; but perhaps the 
humiliating expression of “ clothing” may arise from the nature 
of the Franks dress, which is considered by the Turks as no 
dress at all. It is reckoned indecent, even in the short oriental or 
Mameluke costume, to make an ordinary visit without that outer 
garment, which covers one like a college gown. 


332 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


were crowded dreadfully, our attendants were bear¬ 
ing with all their force upon our shoulders, and 
while we were trying to make ourselves comfort¬ 
able, ten minutes passed away, and the affair was 
over. The throne of the Gran Signor is a four- 
posted bedstead, quilted with pearls and precious 
stones: on this sat his Mightiness, not in the 
oriental fashion but like a Christian—with his legs 
pendant*'. At the side of the room to the right hand 
were the Grand Vizier and Capitan Bassa, and the 
embassy were drawn up on foot at the left, thus 
forming three sides of a square. We all remained 
with our hats on,—not that it is a De Courcy pri¬ 
vilege, but that on the contrary to take the hat off 
is not a mark of respect but an insult; the only 
thing required by etiquette is the pelisse, and the 
only thing forbidden is the sword, and this since 
the assassination of one of the sultans t. 

Our minister made his speech in English, and it 
was then translated by the dragoman according as 
it had been previously written. The Gran Signor, 

* I saw two arm-chairs at his maison de plaisance—-Sweet- 
waters. 

t General Sebastiani, the French ambassador, ^insisted on 
wearing his sword; but, while he was being hustled into the 
room, it was snatched away. The Marquis de Ferriol, French 
ambassador, quitted the Seraglio in anger because it was not per¬ 
mitted him to wear his sword.—See Hobhouse, Journ. Albania. 
Letter xliv. 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 333 

contrary to usual custom, vouchsafed a reply from 
his own lips ; this was translated by the dragoman, 
and we were immediately hustled out of the room, 
which being clear of, our attendants pushed us 
about our business. During the whole perform¬ 
ance, the Mighty Signor never turned his head 
either to the right or to the left; he occasionally 
glanced obliquely at the minister, but did not once 
look, even while speaking to him. The first Eng¬ 
lish speech was not so humble as probably, if rightly 
translated, would have been agreeable, but the in¬ 
terpreter without fear of discovery might make it 
so: the answer was such as it would please the Sul¬ 
tan to make, and the translation given was such as 
would be thought pleasing to the English to hear. 
The audience being over, we would gladly have 
made our escape, but the money bags were to be 
seen once more; we were therefore desired to draw 
up in a recess of the entrance-porch, while the ja¬ 
nissaries came tearing and swearing along, and each 
of them laden as to his shoulder with one of these 
well-known bags, in each of which might be nearly 
half a pint of half farthings. This was far the most 
annoying and most tedious part of the ceremony; 
at length it finished, and we got upon our horses, 
but we were not even then allowed to proceed till 
the Turkish dignitaries were pleased to come and 
mount theirs, and take place of us. Notwithstand- 


334 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


ing this etiquette our friendship with the Porte is 
worth preserving. We arrived at Pera about half 
past two. The only agreeable parts of the day’s 
work took place within the precincts of the am¬ 
bassador’s residence, viz. the assembling in the 
morning, and the dinner in the evening. I ought 
not, perhaps, to have chosen this particular day to 
mention the latter entertainment, for hospitality 
invariably reigned at the British palace. 

A word on bazaars. We have introduced into 
our language the Eastern word Bazaar—we apply 
it to any one room in which articles of innumer¬ 
able different kinds are found mixed together; this 
is not exactly the meaning of the word at Con¬ 
stantinople: here the town is divided in some parts 
into bazaars—and each bazaar is appropriated to 
but one article, for instance, the shoe bazaar—the 
arm bazaar—the jewelry bazaar, &c. There is one 
great advantage in this arrangement—you see at 
a glance every specimen of the kind that is to be 
found in the town—there is also this inconvenience, 
you cannot, as in London, find whatever the world 
produces within a few yards of you. 

I had intended going from Constantinople to 
Odessa; but my servant, whom I had taken in ex¬ 
change for the original Nicholai, at Athens, never 
had any such idea: I was deterred by the horror 
of forty-five days’ quarantine, and he refused by 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 335 

reason that “ if three ships go to the Black Sea 
only one returns ;”—this prevalent idea is perhaps 
the best etymology of the name. 

Engaged another servant, and hired a large open 
boat for Varna. We had scarcely cleared the Bos¬ 
phorus when the helmsman ran us ashore, because 
it appeared likely to rain. In about two hours we 
again ventured forth, and sailed rapidly as far as 
Vasilikos*, and in this place also we sought a har¬ 
bour for the above reason: here we were detained 
forty-eight hours by a black sky and squally wea¬ 
ther. Hares abound in this neighbourhood; I 
went out shooting, and having returned quite wet, 
was seated half undressed upon my bed in the 
coffee-room, when the governor came in: he sa¬ 
luted me and ordered coffee and pipes, the same 
were handed to me; he remained about an hour 
“ eisherabbing.” A poor girl happening to pass 
he gave her some money, and then held out his 
hand to receive a kiss—a court-like mark of re¬ 
spect. On leaving the room he threw upon the 
table a handful of paras. I was then informed, 
that he had made me a visit of ceremony; and 
that, according to the Turkish custom among par¬ 
ticular friends, he had come expressly to the public 
house to treat me to a cup; but it was expected 

* Ought, probably, to be written Basilikos. The Greeks pro¬ 
nounce B as V, as we do in many of our German-English words. 


336 


A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, 


that I should send him a token of everlasting 
friendship—this cup of coffee was the dearest pre¬ 
sent I ever accepted. 

On the fifth day we arrived at Varna, a consi¬ 
derable fishing-town with a convenient harbour: 
it is now being fortified at the expense of the go¬ 
vernor ; for his life having become forfeit to the 
Porte, he had bought himself off by this bribe ; so 
that probably he will not be put to death till the 
fortifications are complete, or he will then turn 
rebel. I had a letter of introduction to one of the 
principal personages, a Greek bishop; I found 
him in his warehouse or cellar. He apologized for 
not offering me wine: but it had all turned sour, 
and he was therefore under the necessity of selling 
it as vinegar. The governor insisted on my taking 
a guard part of the way towards Bucharest, be¬ 
cause an Englishman had, a few years since, been 
murdered on that road. The country was dull 
and uninteresting, and the accommodations poor 
and with difficulty to be procured. 

The roads throughout Bulgaria are very bad; 
and two slight waggons that I had hired to convey 
myself and servant were without springs. On one 
occasion halting for the night, I found my mat- 
trass spread upon a platform next to a large bun¬ 
dle, that proved to be a man dying; his wife was 
in great sorrow, and selling coffee and spirits: 
soon after my arrival a Greek priest came in, and 


THE OASIS BCERIS, MOUNT SINAI, ETC. 337 

repeated charms by way of medicine, for which he 
received his fee. He was himself so conscious of 
the humbug, that he made an apology to me. The 
Esquimaux still in pristine ignorance are in the 
same manner imposed upon by their doctors or 
“ conjurors.” As soon as the spells had ceased, 
came in my waggoners and some neighbours, who, 
in spite of my remonstrances, got very drunk, and 
danced till morning. I was five days between 
Varna and Bucharest, and every night had to sleep 
in the same room with my host, hostess, and their 
children, my servant, waggoners, and other travel¬ 
lers, all upon the floor. Bulgaria brings one ac¬ 
quainted with strange bedfellows. 

Though Wallachia is a Turkish province, Bu¬ 
charest is always governed by a Greek ; he is ap¬ 
pointed by the Porte. The cross is frequently 
seen erected by the way-side, as in the Nether¬ 
lands ; there are not many Mohammedans in the 
country, but nearly every one that I saw wore a 
green turban, I imagine not by right, but in pride 
and bravado. In Bucharest it is remarkable that 
the streets are not paved with stones, but floored 
with timber; cards and dancing, forbidden by 
the Mohammedan law, are in fashion here; there 
is a good ball-room, and regular whist parties ; the 
higher classes converse in Greek, the lower in a 
mongrel Latin, worse than the Hungarian, but 
not yet quite Italian.— When Paul wrote his 
z 


338 A VISIT TO EGYPT, NUBIA, ETC. 

Epistle to the Romans, was not Greek then and 
there the fashionable language ? The carriages in 
use among the boyars or noblemen, are a kind 
of waggon (wagen von Cronstadt) about three 
feet wide and eight feet long, without springs, 
the body wicker-work, and the covering canvas, 
painted; between, or rather above the wheels, this 
canvas may be rolled up, so as to make a window, 
and it is generally used as a door by harlequina- 
ding; it was such a machine as this, well filled 
with hay, that brought me to Vienna. The roads 
between Bucharest and Rothenthurm are worse 
than over the Apennines; we always had eight 
horses, and frequently four bullocks. Quarantine, 
on entering the German States, detained me only 
five days, the time spent at Bucharest having been 
taken into consideration. Throughout Transyl¬ 
vania and Hungary it was always a work of time 
to procure post-horses; at one place, owing to 
a momentary scarcity, I was positively refused 
till I produced my despatches and “ courier’s pass¬ 
port” which had been oblingly forwarded by Mr. 
Frere to Bucharest. I was seldom detained at any 
post-house more than two hours, and but seldom 
less—a delay, which, lamentable enough to a cou¬ 
rier, was particularly so to me now, after three 
years’ absence, hastening home to England. 


FREDERICK HENNIKER. 


S3 9 


APPENDIX. 


The coating of the pyramid of Chephrenes has 
been variously described, see Denon, &c. There 
may be various kinds of stones used in the edifice; 
that of which I brought home a part, is limestone, 
containing 45 per cent, subcarbonate of lime. The 
angle is 126°. It appears to have been glazed 
over with a kind of resinous matter. 

The inscription mentioned at page 155 is not 
added: for, hearing that it is already in the pos¬ 
session of a gentleman who has laboured hard on 
the Nile, I should be sorry to anticipate his publi¬ 
cation.—Others are withheld, because they have 
been already published # . 

* Noticed by Doctor Young, in his work on Hieroglyphical 
Literature, page 29. 

Inscription on the Temple at the Oasis Bceris. —P. 191. 

* tiiepthCtotktpiotattokpatopoCkaiCapoCnepota 
TPAIANOTAP lCTOTCEBACTOTrEPMANIKOTAAKIKOTTTXHCEniMAPKOTPOTTIAIOTAOTnOT 
EnAPXOTAirTnTOTCAPAniAIKAIlClAIGEOlCMEriCTOlCOIAnOTHCKTCEXlCOITEAECAN 
rECTHNOIKOAOMHNTOTnTAnNOCETEPriACXAPINEnOlHCAN L IE ATTOKPATOPOCKAlCAPOC 
WEPOTATPAIANOTAPlCTOTCEBACTOTrEPMANIKOTAAKIKOTnAXnN-A 

* I also have to acknowledge the friendly assistance of Dr. Young, who suggests flACEnC 
rather than KTCexiC— and who reads TEAECANTEC in place of TPA'FANTEC as I had written it. 

Z 2 




840 


APPENDIX. 


Inscription on a Rock near the Narkoos.— P. 219. 

-hzJu a./ X>:v 

X i it/. I 
l An HHA Im<j i l>clit L. 


Inscription on a Rock at Kardassy 155. 


TBTtPtcKmntMA Tint -y^/{ ) bS 


TO TTpoCfcVtV-tf-M* CftME 
Pc ¥ \ YPHkjC Y CAPATTtus/voc 
lertL; C roMC YJIi 7A Tc Y 
77A-TP0CJCAI XffC Mt TPOtkAtX 
tujm AAf x Qu’W/CArrus# A 

Pl\0y/VTu>A'A'At TT£T£+ a 
'CW-'kAl-y/OYPiC ka aco/c 
i’kZ.*-S&'fpi z r i-fl/ K rA0u' 








APPENDIX. 


341 


Inscriptions on various Stones near that of Moses, at the foot of 
Mount Sinai P. 235. 

nsjiShhj 

l7Sro< 

ps-juh/i/jJ'Qi/pi+iA 
67u j, 

Lpaf-rUf 

fnp c miP u Jfi\ 

73)l bhtu/rnir 

<jjf)Yvr y syfo /M= 

iXzj'HsYwh (=y 
FC*jV(A'\)'i]=bi/Jf 


/ >' VYi)t -Itlfi iff r fy/Jfi u 


Hip a r 

' Mtk 


342 


APPENDIX. 


Inscription on the Convent at Mount Sinai— P. 239. 

-tBKBAdrZ <UiI?e>ttTol0P<>lv4t 

Mo/VActiHwfatffoM. ihqa 

Y&TrfA^TWfaA 
C UWCPvMA JZ lUTlN) MtrBtAlA I 
OKMHW(fi'0//<l Y^KMC^I Mt0C 
OAU/fAC.CrWO 7AiMC-ZlTP t fact 
eZ(»CJ346A0L4c4.Y>AiK‘l7rt\CeN 
iUkYTu;HvM£/Ve/V0/V'MATiAXA‘\ZW£ 
ie)4\OMtN4An-£-KA :4WtfXY;$KX 

On one of the Tomb-Stones at Essouan—V. 146. 


ilo . 



APPENDIX. 


343 


The following is a transcript of what was com¬ 
municated to me by Mr. Salt His Britannic Ma¬ 
jesty’s Consul-general in Egypt. It appears to 
have been written by Captain Gordon who suc¬ 
ceeded in climbing the pyramid of Chephrenes. 

# “ The stone on which the characters are cut is 
six feet long, four broad, and two and half thick. 
The whole of this pyramid is in sad decay, and 
the approach to the top outside the casement is so 
dangerous that I almost conceive it presumption 
to attempt the ascent. 

* See p. 212. 




344 APPENDIX. 



/ 

















































































APPENDIX. 


345 


Extract of a Letter from Captain Gipps , Royal 
Engineers . 

“ The Nilometer which was lately discovered in 
the island of Elephantina is marked on a staircase 
nearly opposite the modern village of Assuan. 

“The method in which it is constructed is 
shewn in the sketch. A. B. C. being simply a 
flight of steps made in the solid masonry, or what 
we may call a quai on the bank of the Nile. 

“ Descending the staircase on the left-hand side 
we find the cubits marked with Greek numerals, the 
highest being KZ (27), and the lowest which can 
be traced 10 (19)* Each cubit is divided into 14 
dactyls, and measures 21 inches. There are va¬ 
rious Greek inscriptions dated in the reigns of the 
early Roman Emperors, viz. Tiberius, Domitian, 
Antoninus, &c. marking what we may suppose to 
have been extraordinary rises of the Nile. None 
of these inscriptions, however, are higher than 24 
cubits, and asan average inundation at the pre¬ 
sent time reaches to 31 cubits (4 cubits above 
the termination of the ancient scale), we have here 
a plain proof that the level of high Nile is at pre¬ 
sent 8 or 9 cubits higher than it was 17 or 18 cen¬ 
turies ago. 

“ I apprehend that it is fair to infer from this 
fact, that the bed of the Nile has risen also, in 


346 


APPENDIX. 


consequence of the deposition of the mud which 
its waters carry with them. 

“ On the 23d of March when we first saw the 
Nilometer, the level of the Nile was 13 cubits. 
When we last saw it, on our return from Nubia, 
24th of April, it was 12 cubits, having fallen one 
cubit in a month, and, as it had still about two 
months to decrease, if we allow it to fall two cu¬ 
bits more, we shall find the level of present low Nile 
to be also about as much higher than it was when 
the Nilometer was contructed as that of the inun¬ 
dation is proved to be. This is on the supposition, 
however, that the zero of the ancient scale is the 
average level of low Nile, such as it was at the time 
of its construction. 

“ The several Greek inscriptions which I have 
mentioned, we did not copy, out of delicacy to 
Mr. Salt, who was engaged on them when we ar¬ 
rived, after having been at some expense in com¬ 
pleting the necessary excavations. They were 
sufficiently legible not to leave a doubt of their 
import. 

“ The question will naturally occur whether this 
be the Nilometer mentioned by Strabo. And here 
we have two difficulties to get over—first, that he 
describes it as situate at Syene, whereas this is in 
the island opposite that town, and which we can 
reconcile only by charging our author with an in¬ 
accuracy—secondly, that he describes it as being 


APPENDIX. 


347 


a well (<Pgtctg) 9 which term, however, may by pos¬ 
sibility have been applicable to any place from 
which water was drawn, and for which purpose this 
staircase must have been particularly adapted. 

“ I leave this for your consideration, and for that 
of other persons better qualified than myself.” 





. 





















APPENDIX. 


349 


(Juillet 1820.) 

4 


L’ ERMITE DU MONT LIBAN, 

No. 14. 

AVIS. MM. les Abonnes qui peuvent avoir a se plaindre de ne ren- 
contrer aucun article de leur gout, dans cette feuille de si peu d’ eten- 
due, sont invites a transmettre a P imprimerie de 1* Ermite, les avis 
dont ils desirent la publication. On donnera cependant la prefe¬ 
rence aux renseignemens qui auront pour objet les Antiquites ou 
le Commerce. 


JAFFA le 24 Juin. 

Un Voyageur Anglais, M. Fre¬ 
deric Henniker, a eu le malheur 
d* etre attaque, lui et son domes- 
tique par huit Cavaliers Arabes, 
dans les environs de cette ville. 
La resistance qu’il a pu leur 
opposer, les avait tellement ir- 
rites, qu’ apres 1* avoir crible de 
blessures et depouille de ses vete- 
ments, ils voulaient encore 1’ egor- 
ger. Le sabre deja leve pour lui 
trancher la tete, a ete retenu, de- 
tourne par l’un des Arabes: mais 
1* infortune Voyageur n’ en a pas 
moins re£u un coup si violent au 
visage, qu* il a peine a boire, sans 
que P eau s’ echappe de sa balafre. 

Depuis cet accident, M. Hen¬ 
niker s’ est refugie au Mont Liban, 
ou P on espere qu’ il se retablira. 
Nous nepublions son malheur que 
pour rendrc plus precautionnes a 


P avenir, les etrangers qui vien- 
nent en ces contrees. 

A present nous sommes fondes 
a croire que la nouvelle de P assas- 
sinat commis sur le Domino , dont 
nous avons parle dans notre pre- 
cedente feuille, n’ a d’ autre fonde- 
ment, que le cruel evenement que 
nous venons de rapporter. Des 
personnes dignes de foi, ont assure 
1* avoir vu en Chypre, au com¬ 
mencement de Juin, se disposant 
a continuer ses courses. 

TRIPOLY le 4 Juillet. 

Hier, est parti de cette ville, 
M. le Vicomte de Portes, officier 
superieur, charge par le Gouverne- 
ment Fran 9 ais, d* un achat de che- 
vaux Arabes. Il se rend d’ Alep a 
Seyde, avec un second convoi 
d* une douzaine de chevaux, dont 
cinq lui ont ete donnes par S. Ex. 
Ahmed Kourchid, Pacha d’ Alep. 



350 


APPENDIX 


Ce present a ete fait en reconois- 
sance d’ un superbe harnois pour 
attelage de six chevaux de carosse, 
harnois que M. le Vicomte avait 
offert au Pacha, de la part de S. 
Ex. le Ministre de 1’ Interieur. 
Parmi ces cinq chevaux, il y en a 
trois de richement enharnaches, 
dont 1* un pour M. le Roi de 
France, le second pour le Minis¬ 
tre et le troisieme pour M. de 
Portes, a qui le Pacha s’ est plu 
temoigner, en toute rencontre, 
une estime particuliere. 

On aura peine a croire dans 
d’autres pays, les traits suivansde la 
voracite des Sauterelles. Une pe¬ 
tite fille encore au berceau, aban¬ 
donee, quelques instans par sa 
mere en oflfre un des plus triste. 
Cette mere imprudente qui avait 
oublid de fermer la porte de 1’ ha¬ 
bitation, est restee interdite, a son 
retour, en voyant le berceau cou- 
vert de sauterelles. Elle veut les 
chasser, elle crie au secours, elle 
deespere; mais le mal etait fait. 
Les maudits insectes avaient telle- 
ment devore les yeux et le visage 
de l’enfant, que cette innocente 
creature est morte peu de jours 
apres, des suites de leurs piqures. 

L’ autre trait non moins surpre- 
nant, n’ a pas eu un resultat si 
funeste. Un Paysan excede de 
fatigue, pour avoir fait la chasse 
aux sauterelles, s* etait endormi 
au pied d’ un arbre. II avait eu 
a precaution de s’ envelopper les 


yeux, comptant sans doute que sa 
barbe longue et touffue, lui defen- 
drait le menton, des atteintes de 
1’ ennemi aerien. Cependant les 
sauterelles ont fondu dessus et 
pique si avant dans la chair, que le 
manant reveille par la douleur, est 
reste tout ebahi de se trouver le 
menton degarni de barbe et a demi 
ronge. 

LATTAQUIEH le 16 Juillet. 

La Corvette du Roi, 1* Espe- 
rance, ayant a bord M. le Baron 
Desrotours, Capitaine de vaisseau, 
Commandant la Division du Le¬ 
vant, a passe ici un jour, et doit 
continuer sa tournee dans les 
Echelles de la cote, jusqu* a Alex- 
andrie, fort rapidement, pour pou- 
voir etre de retour a Smyrne, 
le 25 Aout, jour de la fete de S. M. 
le Roi de France. 

Des lettres de Constantinople 
du 19 Juin, annoncent que les 
preparatifs de guerre contre Aly, 
Pacha d’ Janina se poursuivent 
avec une grande activite, soit sur 
la Flotte, soit dans les Arsenaux de 
terre et de mer. 

Suivant les memes lettres, les 
changes ont subi une baisse consi¬ 
derable, la papier etant devenu 
abondant a cause des achats d* 
huille faits a la Canee, dont les 
payments ont eu lieu sur cette 
Capitale. On cote la piastre sur 
Marseille, a 160 et a 165 Cen¬ 
times. 


APPENDIX 


351 


BALBEK le 3 Juillet. 

Depuis la mort de PEmir 
Djadja, il y a environ trois ans, 
cette ville et les villages de son 
territoire se depeuplent journelle- 
raent par le meurtre et le pillage. 
Les freres du defun t, P Emir Sul¬ 
tan et P Emir Emin, se disputent 
P autorite, et Pusurpent alterna- 
tivement, au prejudice de leur 
neveu qui n* est pas en age de 
combattre leurs pretentions. Hier 
encore, une rixe sanglante, effray- 
ante pour ses consequences a eu 
lieu entre les gens de P Emir 
Emin Gouverneur actuel, et des 
cultivateurs Druses du village de 
Zahle. Elle a pour cause le 
refus fait par P Emir de ratifier 
1 ’arrentement stipule par son 


frere, des riches terres de Balbek 
a ces cultivateurs. 

On donncra la suite incessamment. 


Cours des monnoies .. en Paras. 

Quadruple.4320 

Portugaise.2160 

Sequin Mahmoudieh .... 1060 

Id. de Venise .. 610 

Id. de Constantinople . . . 340 

Id. du Kaire . 300 

Roubieh. 115 

Talaris et Piastres d’ Espagne 310 
Bechlik. 205 

Toutes ces monnoies n* ont 
eprouve une hausse si considerable 
que depuis le commencement du 
mois. 


A TRIPOLY de Syrie, 











352 


APPENDIX. 


Copy of Certificate given by the Superior of the 
Convent at Jerusalem . 

In DEI Nomine. Amen. 

Omnibus et singulis has nostras litteras inspecturis 
ac perlecturis, Nos infra scripti fidem facimus at- 
que testamur Dominum Fredericum Hennicher ex 
Anglicas Regno Ierosolymis fuisse, et omnia Sacra 
Loca presentia, et Sanctissima Conversatione Do¬ 
mini Nostri Jesu Christi decorata, ejusque pretio- 
sissimo Sanguine Consecrata, quas tarn intra quam 
extra hanc Sanctam lerosolymorum Civitatem con- 
tinentur, et ab omnibus Peregrinis visitari solent, 
personaliter visitasse. In quorum fidem f. 

Dat. in Conventu S. Salvatoris Jerusalem die 10 
Junii anno 1820. 

F. Sal vat. Ant s . a Melita, 

Custos et Commissarius Loc. Sig. 

Apostolicus Tse. Sse. 

Fr. Odoricus, a Latern 
Secretarius Terras Sanctas. 

THE END. 


G. Woodfall, Printer, Angel Court, Skinner Street, London. 



Albemarle-Street, October, 1825. 


Mr. MURRAY 

HAS THE FOLLOWING WORKS IN THE PRESS. 


i. 

The CONSTITUTIONAL HISTORY of ENGLAND, from 

the Accession of Henry VII. to the Death of George II. By HENRY 

llALLAM, Esq. 2 vols. 4to. 


II. 


MEMOIRS of the AFFAIRS of EUROPE, from the Peace of 
Utrecht. By LORD JOHN RU SSELL. A New Edition, revised and cor¬ 
rected. 2 vols. post 8vo. 


III. 


A COMPLETE COLLECTION of MEMOIRS relative to the 

HISTORY of GREAT BRITAIN, with Notes and Illustrations. 8vo. 

By a Literary Society. 


The publication of this great work, which 
has been so long wanting in our Literature, 
will be superintended by some of the first Lite¬ 
rary Characters of the age. It will contain 


many interesting and important documents, 
some of whichhave been hitherto unpublished, 
and some recently discovered; which have 
been obligingly communicated to the Publisher. 


IV. 

The CONWAY PAPERS, from the Collection of the Marquess 

of Hertford. 5 vols. 8vo. 


“ But now for the recoveries—think what I 
have in part recovered! Only the state pa¬ 
pers, private papers, &c. &c., of the two Lords 
Conway, Secretaries of State. How you will 
rejoice, and how you will grieve: they seem 
to have laid up every scrap of paper they ever 
had, from the middle of Queen Elizabeth’s 
reign to the middle of Charles the Second’s. 
By the accounts of the family, there were 
whole rooms full; all which, during the ab¬ 
sence of the last, and the minority of the 
present, Lord, were, by the ignorance of the 
steward, consigned to the oven and to the uses 
of the house. What remained, except one 
box that was kept till almost rotten in a cup¬ 
board, were throw'll loose into the lumber-room, 
where, spread on the pavement, they sup¬ 
ported old marbles, and screens and boxes. 
From them I have dragged all I could, and 
have literally, taking altogether, brought away 
a chest near five feet long, three wide, and 


two deep, brimful. Half are bills, another 
part rotten, another gnaw r ed by rats; yet I 
have already found enough to repay my trou¬ 
ble and curiosity—not enough to satisfy it. I 
will only tell you of three letters of the great 
Strafford, and three long ones of news of Mr. 
Gerrard, Master of the Charter-house; all six 
written on paper edged with green, like mo¬ 
dern French paper. There are hand-writings 
of every body, all their seals perfect, and the 
ribands with which they tied their letters. 
The original proclamation of Charles the 
First, signed by the privy council; a letter 
to King James from his son-in-law of Bo¬ 
hemia, with his seal; and many, very many, 
letters of negotiation from the Earl of 
Bristol, in Spain, Sir Dudley Carleton, Lord 
Chichester, and Sir Thomas Roe. What 
say you; will here not be food for the 
press?”— Lord Orford’s Letters to George 
Montagu. 


b 





IN THE PRESS. 


v. 

The WILMOT PAPERS. PAPERS and COLLECTIONS of 

SIR ROBERT WILMOT, Bart., sometime Secretary to the Lord Lieutenants 


of Ireland. 

This collection comprises the Secret His¬ 
tory of the Affairs of Ireland, from the years 
1739 to 1770 , and gives a fall explana¬ 
tion of the character and conduct of political 
men of all parties. Their names, though 
the scene of their exertions was provincial, 
are by no means unknown to Fame.—The 
Pukes of Dorset, Devonshire, and Bedford; 
Lords Chesterfield, Northumberland, Hertford, 
and Townsend; Primate Stone, Speakers 


3 vols. 8vo. 

Boyle and Ponsonby, Lord George Germaine, 
General Conway, Messrs. Rigby, Gerard, Ha¬ 
milton, Macartney, Malon, Perry, and Flood, 
are all persons connected with our national 
history; and this correspondence affords abun¬ 
dant means of discriminating more accurately 
than has been hitherto done, their talents, 
their principles, and their proceedings. It 
abounds also with anecdotes illustrative of 
private and social life. 


VI. 

The POLITICAL HISTORY of INDIA. A new Edition, re¬ 
vised, with an additional chapter on the present State of India. By Sir JOHN 
MALCOLM, &c. &c. 2 vols. 8vo. 


VII. 

An ESSAY on POPULATION. By the Rev. T. H. MAL- 

THUS. A Fifth Edition, revised and corrected. In 2 vols. 8vo. 


VIII.’ 

The INFLUENCE of INTEREST and PREJUDICE upon 

PROCEEDINGS in PARLIAMENT stated, and illustrated by what has been 
done in Matters relative to Education—Religion—the Poor—the Corn Laws 
—Joint Stock Companies—the Bank of England and Banking Companies— 

and Taxes. 8vo. 


IX. 

RECENT DISCOVERIES in AFRICA, made in the Years 

3822, 1823, and 1824, extending across the Great Desert, to the Tenth Degree 
of Northern Latitude, and from Kouka in Bornou, to Sockatoo, the Capital 
of the Soudan Empire. By MAJOR DIXON DENHAM, of His Majesty’s 
17th Regiment of Foot, CAPTAIN HUGH CLAPPERTON, of the Royal 
Navy, (the Survivors of the Expedition) and the late DOCTOR OUDNEY. 

Published by authority of the Right Honourable Earl Bathurst, one 
of His Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State , and Dedicated, by permission, 
to his Lordship. Illustrated by Maps and numerous Engravings of peculiar 
novelty and interest. One vol. 4to. 


X. 

VOYAGES of DISCOVERY, undertaken to complete the 

Survey of the Western Coast of NEW HOLLAND, between the years 
h- 1817 and 1822. Undertaken by order of Ills Majesty s Secretary of State for 
the Colonies , in H. M. Surveying Vessels, Mermaid and Bathurst. By 
PHILLIP PARKER KING, R.N., Commander of the Expedition. With Maps, 
Charts, Views of interesting Scenery, &c. 2 vols. 8vo. 



IN TIIE PRESS. 


XI. 

TRAVELS in the HEDJAZ. By the late JOHN LEWIS 

BURCKHARDT. With Plates, 4to. 

XII. 

PROCEEDINGS of the EXPEDITION despatched by His Ma¬ 
jesty’s Gox ei'nment, to explore the Northern Coast of Africa, in 1821 and 22 • 
comprehending an Account of the SYRTIS and CYRENAICA; of the an¬ 
cient Cities composing the PENTAPOLIS, and other various existing Re¬ 
mains. By Captain F. W. BEECHEY, R. N., and H. W. BEECHEY, Esq. 
With Plates, Maps, &c. 4to. 

XIII. 

A WINTER’S JOURNEY through LAPLAND and SWEDEN, 

with various observations relating to Finmark and its inhabitants, made 
during a residence at Hammerfest, near the North Cape. By ARTHUR DE 
CAPELL BROOKE, M. A., F.R,S.,&c. With Plates, 4to. 

“ Where the Northern Ocean in vast whirls 
Boils round the naked melancholy isles 
Of farthest Thule.” 

XIV. 

APPENDIX to Captain Parry’s Journal of a SECOND 

VOYAGE for the Discovery of a North-West Passage from the Atlantic to 
the Pacific. Performed in His Majesty’s Ships Fury and Hecla, in the 
Years 1821-22-23. 4to. 


XV. 


MODERN DISCOVERY.- First Series, VOYAGES for 

the DISCOVERY of a NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 


The object of this Work is to present the 
Public with a cheap but elegant Edition of the 
Accounts of the great Discoveries made in con¬ 
sequence of the Voyages and Travels which 
have of late years been undertaken, chiefly 
under the direction of the British Government. 


A type has been cast expressly for this pub¬ 
lication, and the volumes will present, with¬ 
out curtailing the due quantity of matter 
which should be contained in each of them, 
the first attempt at combining an extremely 
legible type with a very portable size. 

and CAPTAIN PARRY’s 

Pocket Size, with Plates by 


No. I. CAPTAIN ROSS’s VOYAGE, 

VOYAGE, Part First, beautifully printed in a 
Finden, price 2s. 6 d. 

(To be continued Monthly.) 


XVI. 

The MISSION from BENGAL to SIAM, and to HUE, the 

Caoital of COCHIN CHINA, never before visited by any European, in the 
Years 1821 22 By GEORGE FINLAISON, Esq. With an Introduction, 
and Memoir of the Author. By Sir STAMFORD RAFFLES, F.R.S. 8vo. 

b 2 



IN THE PRESS 


XVII. 

ANNE BOLE YN. A Dramatic Poem. By the Rev. H. H. 

MILMAN. Printed uniformly with The Fall of Jerusalem. 8vo. 

XVIII. 

The SECOND VOLUME of the HISTORY of the late WAR in 

Spain and Portugal. By ROBERT SOUTHEY. 

XIX. 

DIALOGUES on VARIOUS SUBJECTS. By ROBERT 

SOUTHEY. With Engravings. 8vo. 


XX. 

The LIFE of ERASMUS, with Historical Remarks on the 
State of Literature between the 10th and 16th Centuries. By CHARLES 
BUTLER, Esq. Svo. 

XXI. 

The LIFE of GENERAL WOLFE, from Original Documents. 

Printed uniformly with Mr. Southey’s Life of Nelson. 2 vols. fc. 8vo. 


XXII. 

The LIFE of PAUL JONES, from Original Documents. Post Svo. 


The age in which Paul Jones lived was the 
parallel of the present one. The revolt of the 
Anglo-American colonies had produced in the 
mind of Europe, a similar effect to that which 
is the consequence of the revolt of Mexico and 
the S tates of South America. The same pas¬ 
sions were excited in the Eighteenth Century; 


governments were placed in similar situa¬ 
tions; and new interests then arose, as are 
now arising. In becoming acquainted with 
the secret thoughts and conduct of the most 
eminent of the revolutionary leaders, much 
light will be thrown upon transactions which 
are now the objects of our observation. 


XXIII. 

The PLAYS of SHIRLEY, now first collected and chronologi¬ 
cally arranged, and the Text carefully collated and restored. With occasional 
Notes, and a Biographical and Critical Essay. By WILLIAM GIFFORD, 
6 vols. 8vo., uniform with Massinger and Ben Jonson 

Five volumes are already printed. 


XXIV. 

The PLAYS of FORD, chronologically arranged, and the Text 
carefully collated and restored. With occasional Notes, and a Biographical 
and Critical Essay. By WILLIAM GIFFORD. 2 vols. 8vo., uniform with 
Massinger and Ben Jonson. 



IN THE PRESS. 


xxv. 

The ART of REARING SILK-WORMS. Translated from the 

Work of COUNT DANDOLO. With Plates, post 8vo. 


x: 

MEXICAN 

The purport of this work is to afford an 
authentic histoT-y of Mexico, and a circum¬ 
stantial account of every thing connected with 
that country. 

Every period in its history—its conquest— 
its colonization—its fortunes under the domi¬ 
nion of .the Spaniards, and its present condi¬ 
tion, will be described by cotemporaries—the 
most valuable of the writers who have treated 
of the respective periods and subjects being 
selected for the present publication. 

Many valuable documents, which are yet 
unpublished, and many which are concealed 
from the curiosity of the English reader, in the 
solitude of Spanish folios, will be given; and 


: vi. 

MEMOIRS. 

original articles on subjects of collateral in¬ 
terest, such as the civilization and religion of 
the ancient Mexicans, the colonial policy of 
the Spaniards, and the Mining interest of 
Mexico, will occasionally appear, and are 
composed expressly for this work. 

To the general reader, these volumes will 
detail a history which romance has never 
equalled for interest of incident and variety 
of character. To the very numerous class of 
society, who, in a political point of view, are 
now watching with interest the fortunes of the 
New World, they will present a Corpus Mexi- 
canum, which they will find as valuable as 
indispensable. 


XXVII. 


EXCERPTA ARISTOPH AMIGA, with Prefaces, Notes, Cri- 

tical and Explanatory, and occasional Translations, 3 vols. 8vo. 

By THOMAS MITCHELL, A.M. late Fel. of Sidney-Sussex Coll. Cambridge. 


In these Selections the Text of Brunck has 
been corrected by a careful comparison with 
that of the Ravenna MS., as published by In- 
vernizius, and by the application of such canons 


and emendations as have been subsequently 
proposed by Porson, Elmsley, Hermann, Din- 
dorf, Seidler, Gaisford, Maltby, Dobree, and 
other eminent Critics and Scholars. 


XXVIII. ' 

EXCERPTA ORATORICA, or Selections from the Greek 

Orators, intended to confirm and illustrate the views offered in the preceding 
Volumes, of the Politics, the Philosophy, Drama, Customs, Manners, and 
State of Society of Ancient Athens. One vol. 8vo. 

Adapted to the use of Schools and Universities. 

XXIX. 

MUSEUM CRITICUM; or, CAMBRIDGE CLASSICAL RE¬ 

SEARCHES, Nos. 1 to 6. New Edition, 8vo. 5s. each. 


XXX. 

INSCRIPTIONS GR/ECJE Vetustissimae. Collegit, et Ob- 
servationes turn aliorum turn suas adjecit HUGO JACOBUS ROSE, M.A., 
e Coll. S. S. Trin. apud Cantabrigiensis. 8vo. 




IN THE PRESS. 


XXXI. 

SCENES and CHARACTERS from FROISSART. Four vols. 

fc. 8vo. 


XXXII. 

The DIVINA COMMEDIA of DANTE ALIGHIERI, with an 

Analytical Comment. By GABRIEL ROSSETTI. In 6 vols. 8vo. 


This Comment, which may be called an 
analysis of the spirit of Dante, lays open se¬ 
crets yet unrevealed respecting the true signi¬ 
fication, the origin, and the progress of the 
Poem, so that no material passage of it will 
longer remain doubtful, either as to the literal 
or allegorical sense. 

Great part of Dante’s other wot-hs, both in 
verse and prose, and of the public and private, 
political and moral, civil and literary, history 


of his times, will be illustrated, with constant 
relation to the Poem. The whole will be ex¬ 
posed in a manner easy to be comprehended 
by any one who understands the Italian lan¬ 
guage. 

The text will be given with particular cor¬ 
rectness, and with evident emendation of vari¬ 
ous passages, derived from accredited manu¬ 
scripts. 

The First Volume will be published in J anuary. 


XXXIII. 

An ITALIAN GRAMMAR. By FERDINAND CICILONI. 

Comprising,' in small compass, more of what is essentially useful towards a 
knowledge of the Language, given with greater perspicuity and precision, than 
has been done in any former one. 12mo. 

XXXIV. 

The FOURTH Volume of the ORLANDO FURIOSO of 

ARIOSTO. Translated by WILLIAM STEWART ROSE, post 8vo. 

XXXV. 

ESSAYS on SOME of the PECULIARITIES of CHRIS- 

TIANITY. By RICHARD WIIATELY, D.D. of St. Alban’s Hall, Oxford. 

vo. 


XXXVI. 

VINDICI® ECCLESIJE ANGLICANiE. —The Book of the 
Church vindicated and amplified. By ROBERT SOUTHEY, LL.D. 8vo. 



CATHOLIC QUESTION. 



I. 

The BOOK OF THE CHURCH. By ROBERT SOUTHEY, 

LL.D. Third Edition. 2 vols. 8vo. 24s. 


ii. 


VINDICI^: ECCLESIiE ANGLICAN.®.—The Book of the 
Church, vindicated and amplified. By ROBERT SOUTHEY, LL.D, One 
vol. 8vo .—In the Press. 


III. 

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Series of Letters addressed to Robert Southey, Esq., LL.D., on his BOOK 
of the CHURCH. By CHARLES BUTLER, Esq., of LincolnVInn. A New 
Edition, revised and corrected. 8vo. 9 s. Gd. 


IV. 

ANSWER to the BISHOP of CHESTER. By CHARLES 

BUTLER, Esq. Third Edition. 8vo. Is. 6d. 


V. 

HISTORICAL ANECDOTES of the ENGLISH and IRISH 

CATHOLICS. Third Edition, corrected, and considerably augmented. 
By CHARLES BUTLER, Esq. of LincolnVInn. 4 vols. 8vo. 21. 8s. 

VI. 

The ACCUSATIONS of HISTORY against the CHURCH of 

ROME Examined, in Remarks on many of the Principal Observations in the 
Work of Mr. Charles Butler, entitled the “ Book of the Roman Catholic 
Church.” By the Rev. GEORGE TOWNSEND, M.A.,of Trinity College, 
Cambridge. 8vo. 6s. 

VII. 

LETTERS to Charles Butler, Esq., on the Theological Parts 
of his Book of the Roman Catholic Church. By the Rev.H. PH1LL- 
POTTS, D.D., Rector of Stanhope. 8vo 9s. Gd. 



CATHOLIC QUESTION. 


VIII. 

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Roman Catholic Church;” in Six Letters, addressed to the “ impartial ” 
among the Roman Catholics of Great Britain and Ireland. By the Rev. 
JOSEPH BLANCO WHITE, M.A.and B.B., in the University of Seville; 
Licentiate of Divinity in the University of Osuna; formerly Chaplain Magis¬ 
tral Preacher to the King of Spain in the Royal Chapel at Seville; Fellow, 
and once Rector of the College of St. Mary a Jesu of the same town; Synodal 
Examiner of the Diocese of Cadiz; Member of the Royal Academy of Belles 
Lettres of Seville; &c. &c.; now a Clergyman of the Church of England.— 
Author of Doblado’s Letters from Spain. 8vo. 95 . 6d. 


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the Committees of the Houses of Lords and Commons, by the Irish Catholic 
Bishops, Mr. O’Connel, and other Witnesses. 8vo. 12$. 


X. 

The CORRECTED REPORT of the SPEECH of the Right 

Honourable GEORGE CANNING, in the House of Commons, on Tuesday, 
February 15th, 1825, on the Motion for leave to bring in a Bill for the Sup¬ 
pression of Unlawful Associations in Ireland. 8vo. 2$. 















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